seaclipper 24 trimaran

New Seaclipper 24 Trimaran Now Sailing

by Small Tri Guy | Jun 24, 2020 | Self-built Small Trimarans , Small Tri Info - All , Trimaran Design, Rigging, Construction Info/Links | 1 comment

Previous posts on the 24 can be seen here and here. And click on the images below to enlarge them.

Congrats to Jeremy for his successful build. Now he gets to enjoy the rewards of his work and investment of time and money. Plans for the Seaclipper can be obtained from the designer, John Marples .

Jeremy writes:

After many deeply interrupted years of building, I finally launched my Seaclipper 24, Dee Ann. John Marples really nailed it on this one – she’s big enough for coastal sailing, yet small enough to be a hell of a lot of fun. He includes two options in the plans, one with a smaller cockpit and larger interior and one with a smaller interior and a great big cockpit.

I went with the larger cockpit which is very comfortable for four people, yet I believe my wife and I could figure out a way to sleep comfortably enough for a couple nights.

As expected, she takes about an hour to set up to launch with two of us, though it helps to grab a curious onlooker to help us raise the mast.

A four horse long shaft is enough to push her in protected water, though I intend to find a five horse extra long shaft for a little added peace of mind in the Hudson River around Catskill and Hudson, NY.

I can’t praise John Marples enough. His design is simple yet very effective and his customer service is exemplary. I was able to build and outfit her on a carpenters salary without too many moths flying out of my wallet and ended up with a beautiful boat that flies past the fancy pants yacht club crowd.

My father inspired the build as he built a 34 foot Searunner trimaran that we lived on for a year in 1984/85. From Hudson, NY to the Florida Keys and back, first grade was pretty fun. That was followed by years of weekends around Block island and the Hudson. He died just as I was finishing the first ama.

The boat is named for my mother, Dee Ann. She died when I was finishing the last hull and starting on hardware. Their ashes both went into the ocean so it’s a real pleasure sailing this trimaran feeling a specific connection to the water.

— Jeremy Gage

Beautiful story, and a beautiful boat. Yes, John Marples is absolutely terrific to work with. Fair winds and following seas. Bruce A. Alderson

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Brown/Marples Seaclipper 24MC

Discussion in ' Multihulls ' started by BillAU , Jun 22, 2010 .

BillAU Junior Member

G'day mates, I'm a new Aussie member interested in the new Jim Brown/John Marples SC24MC: ​ I had bought the plans for the SC20 but when John let me know he was working on a SC24MC, (MC = Micro Cruiser) I thought the SC24MC would better suit my needs, and so I bought the plans (upgraded) to the SC24MC. It now looks like I'm the first person to buy a set of plans for John and Jims new SC24MC and my Tri is sail # 1. Anyone else here building a SC24MC or thinking of doing so? If so, I think this could be a good place to share information/progress reports on the SC24MC. It has been well over 23 years since I built my last boat, a 40' Wharram and I'm not real comfortable being the leading hand building the first SC24MC but I guess someone has to be first. Anyway, if you're building, or thinking of building, a SC24MC, I would like to hear from you. Cheers mates, Bill Geelong. Australia.  

ThomD Senior Member

That looks like a much more reasonable small cruiser than the 20 footer they were designing. How does the swing system work, what is it made of. Looks like 2x 10s! Jim may be the only designer in his age/experience bracket who is out cruising small boats that size, at least in the last 10 years.  

ThomD said: ↑ That looks like a much more reasonable small cruiser than the 20 footer they were designing. How does the swing system work, what is it made of. Looks like 2x 10s! Jim may be the only designer in his age/experience bracket who is out cruising small boats that size, at least in the last 10 years. Click to expand...

Milan Senior Member

ThomD said: ↑ … 20 footer they were designing. … swing system work, what is it made of … Click to expand...

oldsailor7 Senior Member

That drawing is most strange. Like one of those trick pictures where a flight of steps leads to nowhere. The cockpit appears to be symetrical and the footwell is on the centreline of the hull --but is in line with the companionway which is on the port side of the cabin.  

G'day Oldsailor7, I don't care how strange the SC24MC drawing looks "to you", I'm sure it will all work out when the job is done . Jim Brown has been designing, building and sailing Trimarans for around sixty years, give or take a year. So I'll take Jim Brown and John Marples Trimaran plans and advice on building a Tri over "most" other people out there. I'm just sorry I don't have the space or the time to build one of their 36' - 40' Tri's, nor do I have spare the houndred thousand plus dollars to buy one. So I'll just have to settle for my SC24MC, which will cost me 5 to 10 thousand dollars to build...Depending on materials used If you have never heard of Jim Brown or John Marples, (they are not newcommers to boat design and building ) just google Searunner Trimarans and you'll find a number of Jim's designed Searunners...All of Jim's Searunner (blue water) Tri's offered for sale, hold their value and...I have "never" heard "anyone" who know Jim's Tri's say anything bad about Jim, or John's, Trimarans. That being the case, I'll stick with my Jim Brown/John Marples Seaclipper 24 Micro Cruiser (SC24MC) and I believe I'll be happy with it...If I follow the plans and instructions...Which I will After all, that's why I paid two Tri experts for their SC24MC plans and...Advice on building . Bill Australia  

LOL' Bill. I was Jim Browns Canadian agent and was selling his plans 45 years ago. I was not deriding his boats in my post ---just the curious drawing.  

G'day Oldsailor7 After living in Canada for a time, I know for sure you Canuks are a strange bunch but...You're okay mate I'll let you all know if my SC24MC ends-up with anything strange about her...After I get her built Cheers oldsailor mate Bill Australia  

Thanks Bill, but I am not a Canuck. like yourself I just happened to live there for a while---20 yrs actually. I must say I like the idea of the backward pivotting crossbeams on the SC24MC. I am sure it will also have Jim Browns signature chined bottom, which is the nearest thing to a round section that you can get without double diagonal planking.  

cavalier mk2 Senior Member

Hi old sailor, the cockpit looks inline with the offset hatch because of the beam. If the beam wasn't there and the cockpit lines continued the offset would be more easily seen. Drink a pint to Jim and squint with the other eye It looks like it has the Seaclipper dory style hull instead of the Searunner chine you mentioned.  

Sc24mc G'day mates, I'm no expert in boat building or sailing. Although I'm a retired seaman, I have yet to sail "anything", and the last boat I built was a 40' Wharram. That was over 20 years ago and I sold her before I got her on the water. Anyway, the SC24MC has a flat bottom, they are the big sister to the SC20 that can be seen in this video I first ordered, and received, the plans for the SC20 but before I got started on her, John let me know he was working on a 24' micro cruiser and as I believe the SC24MC would better suit my needs, I jumped onboard straight away and ordered the plans, so I'm building the SC24MC instead of the SC20. In building a SC24MC there's a little more involved, like a strongback, larger bulkheads, hull-frame and cuddy cabin but basically, the two boat hulls are pretty similar. Scott built the first SC20, with the help of two workers, in less than "two months" (Scott told me he did not do much work on that SC20 as he had busted his leg, so he mostly supervised) Anyway, I don't know how long it will take me to build my SC24MC but...I bet it will be longer than two or three months I'll be working on my own but I "hope" to have her finished and on the water by Christmas 2010 I won't be taking any bets on that, I have a "lot" of other commitments for both my wife and I (these are commitments that can not be put off) but...We'll see how I go with the building of my SC24MC Cheers mates, Bill Australia  

Good luck with your build Bill. If you plan your work carefully I'm sure that you can finish it by Christmas. It really makes a difference if you can get a part time helper for those jobs where four hands are needed. Cheers. OS7  

rapscallion Senior Member

are they any particulars available about the design? estimated weight, recommended rig type, ect?  

SC24MC Line Drawings rapscallion said: ↑ are they any particulars available about the design? estimated weight, recommended rig type, ect? Click to expand...

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Thank you! I like the simplicity of the design. 1800 lbs with 370 sq feet of sail area. Are their any estimates on the cost of the build?  

Jim Brown Searunner 42

Jim Brown interviews Chris White

Cruising Foiler Proposal by Jim Brown

Anyone know the difference of interior size of Searunner 34 tri vs Marples 35 tri?

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Seaclipper 24 (sailboat) for sale

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• Sailboat Guide

2012 Seaclipper 24

• Description

Seller's Description

24 ft Trimaran Seaclipper 24

Equipment: AutoTiller, GPS, VHF, New Sails, Trailer

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

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Review of nine small, folding day-trimarans (2010)

by mike waters n.a.

As much as I like the basic concept of Jim's new boat, there are a couple of aspects that I need to mention. To put a light rig from a Hobie 16 on a boat that is FAR heavier and more stable than the boat for which it was originally designed, might prove too much for this mast, especially since the shrouds are more inboard than normal—so raising the mast compression. Normally, a Hobie would just 'go over' and so relieve the load—but not this beamy 800 lb twenty-footer! Also, the too-typical, puny 4-oz sail cloth of a regular Hobie 16 sail, is hardly man enough for this job. It's certainly a low cost start up solution and we've all admired Jim for his support to those with lesser means, but I think any builder should plan on something more substantial to be a better match for this cruiser. Finally, as the ama looks to be quite substantial in volume (guessing about 800 lbs buoyancy?), I have some concern for the strength of the single plank akas (cross beams) that act as swing arms for folding, should the builder decide to choose regular construction lumber. Sooner or later, someone will push this boat hard enough to bury an ama and that's a LOT of leverage on those arms, even if they are cleverly designed to act like huge flexible wooden leaf springs. But without seeing the details, I can only suggest that some good laminated material might be in order for these parts and perhaps Jim's plans already call for that or even some added carbon here as well. But I like the general concept and even though the boat will be no speedster, it's a design that can give a young couple on a small budget, a lot of weekend pleasure provided the conditions are within what the rig and swing arms can take.

• This particular Performance Index is simply a product of the principal things that affect multihull performance (LOA × BOA × Sail Area) all divided by the listed Weight. By taking the square root of this value, you then get a figure that very roughly reflects speed for comparison purposes. Yes, I agree there are a lot of factors NOT taken into account with this crude approximation, but the base figures used are easy to find and at least the general trend is indicated—and quite fairly so I believe.

TRIKALA 19 The Trikala 19 is from the board of imaginative designer Kurt Hughes. This boat was actually in production for a while in Spain but since then, a few have also been built by amateurs. A couple reportedly even cruised the Mediterranean in one! This is a boat design that always frustrated me—perhaps wrongly so.

For me as a designer, the looks of a boat are almost as important as its performance and the Trikala looks quite stunning from the bow, with its long fine entry and streamlined deck lines. But then, as it opens out to encompass a very wide cockpit aft, it always appeared to me that something distracted the designer or he just lost interest, as the view from the stern quarter is not so elegant. It's no doubt practical but it's a shame that its wonderful efficient appearance from the bow could not in some way be maintained at the stern. But with that very personal comment aside, this is an interesting boat with no doubt a good performance. It would be a particularly interesting boat to build for someone wanting to learn about composite construction with a larger boat in mind 'down the road', as the Trikala is lightly built of foam core under fibreglass skins and would therefore provide a good learning experience. The boat does not fold in a conventional way but like some other small designs by Kurt, uses a sliding system with tubular akas, the port ones, sliding into tubes with Teflon runners behind the starboard ones—so the two sides are not exactly symmetrical—a factor that some potential buyers find disturbing, though the difference is purely cosmetic. (The larger 7 m, L7 by Mike Leneman, also uses a similar sliding system – though in this case he uses fiberglass channels—see my REPORT on SMALL TRIMARANS for more on the L7, available through my website.)

W17 This design of mine was created during 2009 and completed in 2010.  It's hard to review your own boat designs without being accused of inevitable bias, so I will simply tell you about it and point out the features I've incorporated and why.  However, time has now shown [2020] it's as good as I had hoped and expected her to be.

This is a primarily a boat 'to just enjoy sailing in'. She's designed to be comfortable, way drier than average, fast and efficient and is just at home on a weekend camping cruise as on the circuit.   With several boats now [2020] having each sailed and cruised over 1000 miles and with open sea passages of up to 60 miles safely accomplished, she is certainly proving very capable in experienced hands, employing intelligent sail reduction when things get rough.   Her seemingly simple hull forms give a very high efficiency and she has proven quiet and dry through a chop and with her wing mast and unique ama shape, shows an unusual ability to climb to windward with minimal leeway.   [Following an independent test and review by Wooden Boat Mag., I was asked to explain why the W17 performed so well with such simple shapes and my reply to this was published in the prestigious Professional Boatbuilding magazine #169 .. and is available to read on this website under 'Published Articles'].    

Sailing this boat is indeed a magical experience and dozens of boats are now (2020 update) being built in over 30 countries.   She's a little more time-consuming to build than others her size, but numerous owners have since dubbed her, 'The Miata of the Seas' .      For them, a few more hours is well worth the effect and this boat will take you to a whole new level above any production boat of this size out there .... and also cost you less.

Comparison Chart  (created in 2010)

Boat Profile

Seaclipper 16

A folding trimaran for the home builder

From Issue   January 2017

I ’ve built more than a few boats for myself in the past 38 years, and in all that time I have never been tempted to build a multihull. Why go to all the work of building two hulls, let alone three, when I’ve never found any of my single-hulled boats lacking in any significant way? I started getting answers to that question as soon as I stepped aboard a Seaclipper 16 designed by John Marples of Searunner Multihulls and one of nine designs in the Seaclipper series of trimarans. The hull is constructed of 7 sheets of 1/4″ six-ply marine plywood, five sheets of 3/8″ nine-ply, and lumber in commonly available sizes. Fiberglass-and-epoxy sheathing is optional. The instructions are geared for novice builders; full-sized templates for the bulkheads are provided in the plans. Stringers connecting the bulkheads define the shapes of the plywood panels for the hulls. The 15′ 11″ vaka (center hull) has a flat bottom that will take to landing on the beach without digging in or causing the kind of wear you’d get with a sharp V hull. The amas (outrigger hulls)  have bottom panels set at an angle, deeper outboard than inboard. This configuration adds a fin-like element for increased lateral resistance for sailing in shallow water with the daggerboard pulled up. The angled ama bottoms also present an edge to the water, keeping the amas from slapping the waves when they’re close to the water’s surface; it’s a quieter ride. The amas’ bottoms are positioned higher than the vaka’s bottom, so their edges are not subjected to wear when the boat is hauled up on a beach.

Each of the four swing-arm akas has three bolts: one securing the pivoting part of the aka to the ama, and two (one of those anchoring the shroud bridle) connecting the pivoting part of the aka to the fixed central section on the vaka. Removing the inboard bolt allows the swing arm to pivot, moving the ama aft and inward.

The akas (crossbeams) can  be made in three ways: as one piece bolted to the three hulls, hinged to fold the amas on top of the vaka, or as swing-wings, like LIMONADA shown here. With the swing-wing, the amas pivot aft and nest against the vaka, bringing the beam down from 11′ 3″ to 7′ 7″ for trailering and to fit in a standard marina slip. The swing wings can function whether the boat is afloat or on a trailer, so they are handy when launching or landing at a crowded boat ramp. The swing wings don’t require any hardware beyond nuts and bolts, and have an advantage over the hinged akas: there’s no need to lift an ama and set it down gently on the vaka. The Seaclipper 16 can be built as an open-cockpit cruiser, or as a daysailer with a tandem cockpit, with the helmsman sitting in the aft position, legs straddling a centerboard trunk and the crew sitting forward. The 7′-long open cockpit has side decks between the akas that offer more options for seating, moving around while under sail, and sleeping aboard while moored.

John Marples, designer of the Seaclipper 16 and builder of LIMONADA, goes for a sail on the Mystic River.

L IMONADA, as an open-cockpit version of the 16, has a daggerboard deployed through a slot in the cockpit sole. A softwood stick wedged in the slot keeps the board down; it has a loop of line at its top for quick removal and raising of the board. The cockpit sole is high enough above the waterline that any water coming into the cockpit drains right out. The rudder is mounted on a false transom, hinged at the top, that allows the rudder to kick up when meeting an unexpected shoal or to be retracted when coming ashore. The downhaul at the bottom of the false transom leads to the cockpit for easy operation. The rudder blade is balanced and has enough of the blade ahead of the pintles and gudgeons to lighten the load on the skipper when coming about. It also allows the arms of the rudder yoke to be short and unobtrusive. The lines from the yoke lead forward to pedals in the cockpit to  for hands-free steering. A tiller above the yoke allows steering while sitting on a side deck and is the means of raising the rudder when coming ashore.

A hinged false transom allows the rudder to be kicked up. The tiller pulls the rudder up and holds it. The line at the bottom of the false transom holds the rudder down while the boat is underway.

The Seaclipper 16 is designed to take a Hobie 14 sailing rig. The pivoting aluminum mast, roller-furling jib, and fully battened mainsail are readily available from a wide network of Hobie dealers and may be found used in online classifieds. The Hobie 14 has a beam of 7′ 8″, so the Seaclipper 16, with a beam of 11′3″ can take better advantage of the 146-sq-ft sail rig without flying a hull to the brink of capsizing. Dyneema shrouds, secured to bridles spanning the side decks, support the mast. The plans include specifications for an unstayed wooden mast. For auxiliary power, a short crossbeam aft of the port aka serves as a mount for a small outboard.

The side decks provide seating when two are aboard, and the steering is then done with the tiller, not the foot pedals.

I had a chance to sail LIMONADA, the Seaclipper 16 built by Marples for Mac MacDevitt, on Mystic River near Mystic Seaport. Stepping aboard, I got my first lesson in the values of a multihull. I didn’t have to lunge for the centerline as I do with my monohulls to keep them on an even keel. The trimaran has plenty of stability no matter where I put my weight and the amas (outer hulls) have enough volume of to support my 220 lbs. Without having my movement aboard the boat restricted by the nagging demands of a monohull, I could wander around the boat. The decks are all flat, so the footing is good everywhere. While I like the sweep of a curved sheer line, the Seaclipper’s flat decks simplify the construction of the boat and provide the geometry required for the swing-wing akas.

The deck surrounding the cockpit is large enough to set up a tent for sleeping at anchor. The windshield was added by the builder to block spray when sailing into a brisk breeze.

I liked being able to walk around the boat while it was under sail with Mac at the helm. I never get to see my own boats moving through the water, so stretching out on an ama to watch the vaka’s bow at work was a treat. The 7′-square deck around the cockpit offers a place to pitch a tent. Mac has a two-person tent with an oval hole in its floor to match the cockpit opening. He can sleep to one side of the cockpit, sit comfortably upright with his feet in the cockpit and have access to the gear stowed there. The amas and vaka offer plenty of room for cruising and camping gear; commercial plastic hatches offer access.

I took LIMONADA out by myself and enjoyed steering with my feet and having my hands free to manage the sheets. Nestled down in the cockpit on a padded seat with a backrest, I was very comfortable and relaxed. The sheets were right in front and could be cleated off, making sail-handling a breeze; there was no need to switch sides or do-si-do with a tiller when coming about. During my outing the weather was warm and the wind was light, perhaps 8 to 10 knots at best with a few gusts, but in a cold wind, being mostly below deck level would be a boon. Mac had made a removable windshield that wraps around the forward end of the cockpit for even greater protection from cold wind and spray.

With Marples and owner Mac MacDevitt aboard, LIMONADA flies the windward ama. The leeward ama still has plenty of freeboard.

The light wind was more than enough to get Mac’s Seaclipper going at a brisk pace and fly the weather ama. There was no spray, so I stayed dry, and even with the boat moving at a good clip I didn’t notice any water coming up through the daggerboard slot.

I was surprised by how well the Seaclipper could come about. With three hulls in the water, I thought there would be a lot of drag in the turns and that the boat would get bogged down, but the rudder blade and the centerboard have enough area to swing the bow around before the boat loses momentum. I never got caught in irons, but I backed the jib for a moment to hasten the bow’s falling off and the filling of the main.

LIMONADA owner Mac MacDevitt reports that his Seaclipper 16 is “super fun in a stiff breeze.” Here, sailing with a reefed main on Lake Champlain, he estimated his speed at about 13 knots. “It was exciting, but I felt safe and secure.”

Christopher Cunningham is the editor of Small Boats Monthly.

Seaclipper 16 Particulars

Length/15′ 11″

Beam/11′ 3″

Beam, amas retracted/7′ 7″

Draft, hull only/11″

Draft, board down/2′ 7″

Sail area/127 sq ft

Displacement, dry/400 lbs

Displacement, full load/800 lbs

Plans for the Seaclipper 16 are available from Searunner Multihulls for $180.

Is there a boat you’d like to know more about? Have you built one that you think other Small Boats Monthly readers would enjoy? Please email us!

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Comments (2)

Thanks for the multi-hull perspective. Lots of cool ideas.

I’ve been looking. This could be the one!

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2012 Seaclipper Trimaran 24

Windham, ME

• Listing Type for Sale
• Type Tritoon
• Make Seacraft
• Stock # 245425
• Length (ft) 24
• Condition Used
• City Windham
• State Maine
• Postal Code 04062
• Country United States
• Ad Number 27057
• Ad Created May 22nd 2021
• Last Update Aug 4th 2024

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Sarasota, FL

2011 Tige Ski / Wakeboard Boat Rz2

1995 hunter sloop 29.5, 2018 tige ski / wakeboard boat rzx2, 2018 glastron jet boat gt 207.

• Seaclipper 20

The Seaclipper 20 is suitable as a family daysailer or an expedition trimaran. Mike O’Brien reviewed the design in WoodenBoat No. 217 (Nov/Dec 2010) , and a class at the WoodenBoat School in the summer of 2011 built one in nine days (see WoodenBoat No. 227 (July/August 2012) . The central cockpit has enough room to seat four people. The deck around the cockpit is 7-feet square, big enough to hold an inexpensive family-sized tent. With storage compartments fore and aft, two people can spend several days camp-cruising. The goal of this design is to get you on the water quickly and economically. Construction is simple with ¼” plywood construction and epoxy adhesives. Flat beam, swing-wind akas are used to reduce the 14’ beam to trailering width. They can also be pivoted in the water allowing narrow marina slip berthing with the mast up. You can find an inexpensive rig for this boat online. A used Hobie Cat 16, or any other equivalent beach cat rigging will work just fine. Expect to spend about 5 to 7 months of part-time effort to complete.  Picture of MICE NUTS under sail by owner Val Cox.

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• Seaclipper 34
• Seaclipper 38 and 41