genoa on a sailboat

• Anchoring & Mooring
• Boat Anatomy
• Boat Culture
• Boat Equipment
• Boat Safety
• Sailing Techniques

The Genoa Sail: A Guide

Genoa Sails are an essential addition to any sailboat’s gear. They provide extra sail area and power for improved boat performance and efficiency. This guide will help you learn about the different types of Genoa Sails, how to choose the perfect one for your sailboat, and tips for optimizing its performance and care.

Key Takeaways

• Genoa Sails are large headsails designed for light to moderate winds that produce lift and power for improved speed and performance.
• There are several types of Genoa Sails, ranging from the standard genoa to the roller furling genoa, each suitable for different applications.
• Larger sails offer more power but require more skill to handle while smaller sails are easier to manage.
• Dacron and laminated sailcloth are commonly used for making Genoa Sails, though materials like Kevlar and carbon fiber can also be employed.
• Careful handling of tacking and jibing should be observed in order to prevent luffing or loss of efficiency.

What is a Genoa Sail?

The Genoa Sail is a type of headsail larger than the jib and commonly used to sail in light to moderate winds. It’s characterized by its size and overlapping design, which allows it to catch more wind and gain greater power than smaller headsails.

Genoa Sails are ideal for cruising or long-distance sailing, as they provide better speed and performance while still being easy to handle.

One of the key advantages of the Genoa Sail is its ability to generate lift, pushing the boat forward and helping maintain velocity in light wind conditions. Its curved shape creates this lift, producing an airfoil effect, resulting in both push and drag.

The Genoa Sail permits greater control and maneuverability as it can be adjusted and trimmed accordingly. This makes it highly versatile, so it can be used on different occasions, from casual sailing to high-performance racing.

Types of Genoa Sail

There are several types of Genoa Sails, each with unique characteristics and advantages. The sail types include the standard genoa, the high clew genoa, the overlapping genoa, and the roller furling genoa.

The Standard Genoa

The Standard Genoa is the most typical type of Genoa Sail, designed for light to moderate winds and characterized by its moderate size with an overlapping design. This overlap typically ranges from 110% to 150%, enabling the sail to catch more wind and deliver more significant power than a smaller jib yet still be gentle enough to manage.

The Standard Genoa is highly versatile, suitable for up and downwind sailing and in different wind conditions, from light to moderate. Its ease of control also makes it great for sailors of various skill levels.

To ensure optimal performance, however, proper trimming and adjustment must be made; this entails adjusting the angle of the sail to the wind, controlling the tension on the halyard lines and sheets, and making adjustments to the leech and foot.

When done correctly, this can lead to excellent speed and performance, which is why it’s such a helpful sail in any sailor’s toolkit.

The High Clew Genoa

Featuring a higher clew than the Standard Genoa, the High Clew Genoa offers better control and maneuverability and improved visibility from the cockpit. It’s beneficial in light wind as it catches more wind and produces more power.

To reach optimal performance, however, some adjustments to the sail’s rigging and trim have to be done; this includes ensuring the halyard and sheets are properly tensioned for better sail shape and angle of attack.

Despite these requirements, the High Clew Genoa is still straightforward to handle, making it suitable for sailors of any skill level. With its improved performance in lighter winds, this type of Genoa Sail can be a great addition to any sailor’s toolkit, particularly those who often go on cruising or long-distance sailing trips.

The Overlapping Genoa

The Overlapping Genoa is a larger and more powerful version of the Standard Genoa, with an overlap between the sail and mast that ranges from 110% to 150%. This design allows for enhanced lift and power, perfect for racing and high-performance sailing.

With this kind of sail comes a higher level of difficulty in controlling it in more intense winds, so it is better suited for experienced sailors.

Despite its challenges, the Overlapping Genoa remains popular among those looking to get maximum speed and performance from their vessel. Its increased size and power can provide a significant boost in racing scenarios in which every second counts, and experienced sailors push their limits.

For optimal results, however, proper trimming and adjustment are essential; this includes ensuring the sail’s angle to the wind, halyard tension, and sheet tension are all correctly balanced for a practical shape without supporting too much power or getting damaged.

The Roller Furling Genoa

The Roller Furling Genoa is designed to be easily rolled and stored when not in use, making it convenient and easy to deploy or stow. It’s a popular choice for cruising and recreational sailing due to its simple handling and decreased need for physical labor.

However, its design also limits its performance capabilities compared to other types of Genoa Sails; it can get overpowered in high winds, reducing power and efficiency. As such, this sail is not generally used for racing or high-performance sailing, as these scenarios require maximal speed and performance.

Despite these drawbacks, the Roller Furling Genoa retains popularity among sailors who appreciate its ease of use. However, sailors must take good care of the sail with proper maintenance and consider its limitations when planning their sailing trips.

Genoa Sail Sizes

The size of a Genoa Sail is defined by its relationship to the boat’s foretriangle, which is the triangle between the mast, forestay, and deck. The sail typically ranges from 110% to 150% of the foretriangle, with greater overlap increasing power and lift.

The size of a Genoa Sail can, therefore, significantly affect the boat’s performance and handling. A larger sail can give more power and lift, making it suitable for racing and high-performance sailing; however, this comes at the cost of needing more experience for proper handling, particularly in high winds.

In contrast, smaller sails are easier to control and manage, making them ideal for cruising and recreational sailing; plus, they prove more efficient in higher winds as it generates less drag and won’t overpower the boat.

When deciding on a sail size, it’s essential to examine your boat , including its size, design and intended use. Larger sails may be necessary for race or high-performance scenarios but can be too challenging to manage while traveling; conversely, smaller sails may be better suited for cruising yet could lack enough power or lift when going all out.

Genoa Sail Construction

Dacron is a commonly used material for Genoa Sails as it is durable, easy to handle, and affordable, making it ideal for cruising and recreational sailing.

For more performance-oriented use, such as racing or high-performance sailing, laminated sailcloth (a combination of multiple synthetic fibers with an adhesive) is often employed. It’s lightweight and has higher performance characteristics though special care may be required.

Advanced materials that have been gaining traction in the field are Kevlar and carbon fiber; they provide remarkable strength and durability, which makes them perfect for intense situations, but they cost a lot more money than conventional materials.

Today’s sails employ advanced techniques like radial or tri-radial panels, helping to distribute loads evenly across the sail and heighten performance even further.

Handling Genoa Sails

Proper trimming of the Genoa Sail is essential for creating lift and power and preventing stalling or inefficiency. This involves adjusting the halyard tension to obtain the right sail shape and ensuring that the sheets are correctly tensioned to control the angle of the sail relative to the wind. To adjust the angle of the sail relative to the boat, sailors can move the sheets in or out or change the position of cars or tracks.

Reefing is used when there are high winds, whereby reducing sail size prevents overpowering. This is usually done by partially furling it around the forestay or removing part of it with reefing lines. The reduction depends on wind conditions and boat size; typically, 20-30% should be reduced to maintain control and stability while avoiding damage to rigging and sails.

Once reefing has been done, it’s essential to ensure proper trimming afterward to optimize performance. This includes adjusting halyard tension, sheets, and angle of attack accordingly to achieve an optimal level of sail shape relative to the wind .

Finally, tacking and jibing involve turning through wind direction to change course – these maneuvers must be carefully handled so that luffing or loss of efficiency does not occur.

Difference between Genoas and other sail types

Jibs are an alternative to Genoa Sails, typically used in higher wind conditions and hanked onto the forestay instead of roller-furled. They are smaller than Genoa Sails and generate lift and power as effectively.

Code Zero sails can generate lift and power for light wind conditions, even with very little wind. These sails are larger than Genoa Sails and have a unique shape, making them ideal for racing and high-performance sailing.

Finally, spinnakers are downwind sails designed to capture the wind from behind the boat. These are usually much larger than Genoa Sails, making them perfect for racing or high-performance sailing where speed and efficiency matter.

Genoa Trim and Performance

Maximizing performance for a Genoa Sail involves adjusting the sail’s angle to the wind to achieve the best possible sail shape and angle of attack. This can be accomplished by adjusting the sheets, halyard tension, and sail angle relative to the boat. Proper trimming is essential for creating lift and power while preventing stalling or loss of efficiency.

Optimizing sail shape is another helpful tip for maximizing Genoa Sail performance. This can be done by adjusting the tension and position of the sail to get the right amount of shape and angle relative to the wind. Achieving proper sail shape is crucial for generating lift and power and preventing stalling or loss of efficiency.

Adjusting where necessary, twist is also essential in improving Genoa Sail performance. Twist refers to the difference between the top and bottom angles of the sail, influencing efficiency and power levels. By tinkering with twist, one can optimize their sails performance while generating more lift and power.

Finally, proper maintenance should not be overlooked when it comes to achieving peak performance from a Genoa Sail, and regularly inspecting for damage or wear, cleaning/drying after use, and storing correctly when not in use are all critical steps toward ensuring optimal functioning now and into the future.

Genoa Sails are an invaluable and essential part of any sailboat’s inventory, significantly impacting the performance and efficiency of the vessel. Different types of Genoa Sails exist, each with distinct characteristics and purposes for particular sailing environments. Consequently, selecting the correct sail for your specific needs is essential.

When choosing a Genoa Sail, factors such as use, size, fabric type, and construction quality should all be considered. Additionally, proper maintenance and care of your sail are paramount if you want to reap its full potential over the long term.

Maximizing your Genoa Sail performance can be achieved by adequately adjusting the angle and shape of the sail, optimizing twist when necessary, and consistently maintaining good practice with regard to upkeep.

Genoa Sail FAQs

Q: What is a Genoa Sail, and what is it used for?

A: A Genoa Sail is a large triangular sail deployed on a sailboat’s head stay. It provides additional sail area and power, ideal for light to moderate wind conditions. It is commonly used for cruising, racing, and offshore sailing.

Q: What are the different types of Genoa Sails?

A: Different types of Genoa Sails include standard Genoas, high clew Genoas, overlapping Genoas, and roller furling Genoas.

Q: How do I choose the right size Genoa Sail for my boat?

A: The size of the Genoa Sail depends on several factors, such as the type and size of the boat, sailing conditions, and personal preferences. Selecting an appropriately sized sail to maximize performance and safety on the water is essential.

Q: How do I trim a Genoa Sail for optimal performance?

A: Trimming a Genoa Sail requires adjusting its angle to the wind to achieve the best possible sail shape and angle of attack. This can be accomplished by manipulating its sheets, halyard tension, and angle relative to the boat. Proper trimming allows lift and power generation while preventing stalling or loss of efficiency.

Q: How do I maintain and care for my Genoa Sail?

A: Effective maintenance for a Genoa Sail entails regular inspection, cleaning (after use), storage (when not being used), as well as paying attention to age/condition. Inspecting your sail regularly for any damage or wear; cleaning it after each use; storing it safely when not in use; replacing it if necessary to attain peak performance with optimum safety standards.

Q: How do Genoa Sails differ from other types of sails?

A: In comparison with other types of sails such as jibs, code zeros, or spinnakers, differences between them include size (Genoas are larger), shape (Genoas are more triangularly shaped) as, well as intended use (light-moderate winds).

Flemishing a Line: What is it?

Cleat hitch knot: a boater’s guide, related posts, whisker pole sailing rig: techniques and tips, reefing a sail: a comprehensive guide, sail trim: speed, stability, and performance, cleat hitch knot: a boater's guide.

• Cookie Policy
• Privacy Statement

© 2023 TIGERLILY GROUP LTD, 27 Old Gloucester Street, London, WC1N 3AX, UK. Registered Company in England & Wales. Company No. 14743614

Welcome Back!

Login to your account below

Remember Me

Retrieve your password

Please enter your username or email address to reset your password.

Add New Playlist

- Select Visibility - Public Private

The Worldwide Leader in Sailmaking

• Sail Care & Repair
• Sailing Gear
• Find A Loft
• Sail Finder
• Custom Sails
• One Design Sails
• Flying Sails
• New Sail Quote
• 3Di Technology
• Helix Technology
• Sail Design
• AEROTECH Spinnaker Cloth
• NPL RENEW Sustainable Sailcloth
• Sailcloth & Material Guide
• Polo Shirts
• Sweaters & Cardigans
• Sweatshirts & Hoodies
• Accessories
• Shop the look
• Mid & Baselayers
• Deckwear & Footwear
• Luggage & Accessories
• Fall Winter '24
• North Sails x 37th America's Cup
• Sailor Jackets
• SALT X North Sails
• NS x Slowear
• T-shirts & Tops
• Sailor Jacket
• Sustainability
• North Sails Blog
• Sail Like A Girl
• 37th America's Cup
• Icon Sailor Jacket
• Our Locations
• Certified B Corporation
• North SUP Boards
• North Foils
• North Kiteboarding
• North Windsurfing

SAIL FINDER

SAILING GEAR

COLLECTIONS & COLLAB

COLLECTIONS

WE ARE NORTH SAILS

ACTION SPORTS

Popular Search Terms

Organic cotton

Scuba fleece

Drawstring hood

Utility pocket

Stand collar

Sorry, no results for ""

Subscription

Welcome aboard.

We want to make our emails as relevant as possible for you.

Interests saved

Something went wrong, please try again

Welcome to North Sails

Stay up to date with the latest North Sails news.

Receive a 10% discount code for your first apparel order. Excludes sails and SUP’s. See our Terms and Conditions .

Yes, I agree to the terms of use and privacy policy.

HOW TO TRIM A GENOA

Three sources of power.

There are three sources of genoa power: angle of attack, sail depth, and twist . Our goal is first to get the correct total power and, second, to achieve the correct mix of power from each source to suit the conditions.

Angle of Attack

Trim the sail in, and you increase power by increasing the angle of attack. Ease the sail out and you reduce power. Once the sail is sheeted in, then the primary control of angle of attack is the helm. Bear off to add power, and head up to reduce power.

Deep sails generate more power, while flat sail shapes generate less power (and less drag). Genoa depth can be adjusted through a variety of controls, including headstay sag, lead position, and sheet trim.

A closed leech generates more power. A twisted or open leech spills power. Genoa twist is controlled through lead position and sheet trim.

Genoa controls

Your jib will have some or all or the following controls to help achieve the desired amount and mix of power:

Set the halyard to hold the shape of the sail in its designed position. Tension the halyard to remove wrinkles from the luff. If the luff is stretched, ease the halyard. In light air, an over-tight halyard hurts performance. As the wind builds, increase halyard tension to keep the luff firm.

When rolling up the sail after sailing in strong winds, ease the halyard to relieve luff tension.

Genoa (or Jib) Sheet

Trimming the sheet adds power by increasing angle of attack and by reducing twist. Initially, the sheet’s primary impact is on angle of attack as it pulls in the sail. As the sail nears full trim, the sheet pulls the clew down (more than in), and the primary impact of trim is to reduce twist.

For proper close hauled trim, the middle leech should be parallel to the boat’s centerline. The foot should be a little rounder than the foot of the main, but otherwise the overall shape should match the main. (LINK TO mainsail trim)

As you trim in the jib, you will be able to point higher (sail closer to the wind) without luffing. When additional trim no longer improves pointing, the sheet is overtrimmed. Ease slightly to optimize jib sheet trim.

Headstay Sag

The amount of sag in the headstay can be controlled with an adjustable backstay. A tighter headstay flattens the sail, while extra sag adds power. In light air, set the headstay just firm enough to keep it from flopping in chop. Add tension as the wind builds. In strong breeze tighten the headstay as much as you can.

Genoa Leads

Moving the genoa lead fore and aft changes sheeting angle. As an initial setting, adjust the lead so the sail luffs along its entire height as you pinch up above close hauled. From this initial setting, the lead position can be fine-tuned to the conditions. You may want to move the lead forward to add shape to the foot of the sail, which will reduce twist and therefore increase power. This lead-forward shape is best for light air or choppy conditions.

Moving the lead aft reduces power for better performance in stronger winds. An aft lead position flattens the foot of the jib by letting the clew rise. (Think of it like tightening the outhaul on the main.) Moving the lead aft also increases twist, spilling power from the upper part of the sail. For heavy air sailing, we want the top of the sail to luff before the lower section.

The leech cord does not control sail shape. It is intended to prevent leech flutter, which can damage the leech of a jib. Tension the leech cord just enough to stop flutter, and no more. If your sail has a foot cord, the same principle applies.

Do you need a genoa?

Large overlapping genoas are difficult to handle, hard to tack, easy to damage, and impossible to see around. A smaller jib is much easier to handle. On boats with large mainsails, a genoa is an unnecessary burden. In all but the lightest conditions, a working jib provides comparable performance (hey, we’re not racing!), and in moderate to heavy air the jib performs better.

GET IN TOUCH

REQUEST A QUOTE

BROWSE ALL SAILS

FIND YOUR SAIL

Featured stories, offshore sailing guide, how to care for your foul weather gear, npl renew faq.

• Refresh page

Home > Resources > Jibs vs Genoas

Jibs vs Genoas

14 November 2019

Ask Precision Sails , Downwind , Headsail , Sails , Spinnakers , Technical Tags: asymmetrical spinnaker , code zero , genoa , Headsail , jib , spinnaker , staysail , symmetrical spinnaker , wing on wing

Jibs and Genoas are triangular sails which are affixed to a stay in front of the mast. Typically they run from the head of the foremast to the bowsprit. Jibs and genoa’s are used in tandem with a mainsail to stabilize the vessel and are usually measured by their Luff Perpendicular percentage, that is, how much area within the fore-triangle they use.

Jibs are typically 100% to 115% LP and are generally used in areas with heavier winds. The smaller area of a jib allows it to be able to perform more efficiently in greater wind speed without the need to furl away sail shape. Typically a jib will be no greater than 115% of the fore-triangle dimensions.

A genoa is similar to a jib but is larger and reaches past the mast. It will typically overlap a mainsail to some extent. Occasionally, some genoas are so large that if you look at the boat from the side the majority of the mainsail is covered. These are used in lighter air when the most sail area is needed to increase performance.

Technically a foresail that does not overlap the mast is considered a jib, but an overlapping sail is a Genoa. Very likely you will hear the terms used interchangeably. In an effort to standardize which size sail belongs in which category, we have broken down each as follows:

#1 Genoa is 150%

#2 Genoa is 135%

#3 Jib is 115%

#4 Jib is 95%

Smaller jibs are much easier to handle and are especially popular if you are short on crew, besides being less expensive. Non-overlapping sails may also have a longer lifespan since their leeches won’t be dragged across your shrouds, spreaders, and mast. Another benefit is that the weight is significantly lighter. This has two values. First, you will be able to handle them easier both to change and to trim. Secondly, the lower weight means less heeling and pitching.  Cross Cut and Tri-Radial designs are available for all sizes.

135% Furling Headsail for a Dufour 38

However, it is important to note that various cloth weights may be used on jibs and genoas as the sail design based on the boat and sailing conditions will determine what weight will be needed.

Isn’t It Better To Have More Sail Area And Furl Away Whats Not Needed?

Older boats were significantly heavier with longer keels, so it was necessary to fly as much sail as possible to power up. With lighter craft, including lighter masts and rigging, the mast height can be taller without affecting the righting moment. Therefore, a jib that overlaps around 115% becomes quite efficient, resulting in less reliance on the additional overlap. Furthermore, furling away sail shape from a larger genoa for heavy air usage causes uneven stretching in the Dacron over time as well as reducing the efficiency of the sail shape.

A great way to determine which size headsail you need is to get involved with a local club, search on a forum, or have a  conversation with a sail consultant . From the massive amount of information available you should be able to see what owners of the same boat have gone with.

It is important to note that while most owners of the same boat might recommend the same sail, the geographic location and experience level of the captain will be the most important factor in which sail to purchase. A sail made for a Catalina 27 in Seattle will be completely different than a sail made for a Catalina 27 sailing through the Bahamas.

Sail Inventory And The Benefit of Multiple Sails

Most sailors dislike changing sails, but smart sailors know that it is foolish to go out with only one working headsail.

If you already have a larger genoa you may want to consider a smaller headsail with a luff perpendicular of around 115% or less. You can keep your genoa in reserve and use the smaller sail with the increasing breeze. Often changing out your active sail inventory will only need to be done a few times a year, when the conditions demand it.  You can learn more about storing your other sails  and how to  prevent UV damage in our prior posts.

Not every boat needs to have every possible headsail in it’s inventory. One or two carefully designed sails will do more than enough to give your boat the variety needed for the various conditions and future sailing plans you will face. The bottom line here is that you won’t need to change them as often.

135% Furling Headsail on a Hunter 36

If you think you might need a little more power in light conditions, a Code Zero might be what you are looking for. Crossed between a larger genoa and spinnaker, these sails are optimal for sailing in lighter conditions close to the wind. An torque line is a solid line built through the luff of the Code Zero and rotates when a furling unit is turned making it easier to set and douse.

If you are looking for better downwind performance, read more about  symmetrical spinnakers, asymmetrical spinnakers, and code zero sails .

Wing on Wing

Sailing wing on wing is ideal for sailing on a dead run downwind when you notice a loss of power caused by your mainsail stealing the air from your headsail. To do this set the main and headsail to opposite sides but keep an eye out for accidental jibes.

Wing-On-Wing: Mainsail and 135% Furling Headsail on a Hunter 36

Performance

In addition to improvements on the sailboats themselves, modern technology has allowed for the developement a wide variety of fabrics and design tools to improve the performance of sails. This adaptability will give you a better range for each type of sail. Especially one which is custom made for your boat, location, and experience. Correctly  trimming your headsail will help to improve its performance.

Seaward 25 135% Furling Headsail and Mainsail Design

JIB Calculator

precisionsails

Related Posts

Full Battens vs Partial Battens vs 2 Full plus 2 Partial Battens

 Full Battens    VS    Partial Battens      At 

Precision Sails we are asked every day during our customer quote consultation  “Should I choose Full Battens or Partial Battens for my new mainsail?”  Whether you are cruising or racing you will need to examine the pros and cons of adding full battens to your main sail.Positive Aspects of Full […]

Memories of Sail Repairs, Replacement Sails and FINALLY New Sails

I have had a Tanzer 26 for over 20 years now. The vessel, without much imagination I call The Boat, has served me well and without complaint through yearly cruises on Lake Ontario with my three kids and day sailing with the wife. Did I mention that my wife is a good sport but a definitive lover of a good.

My Need for Cruising Speed Demands a Great Suit of Sails

My Need for Cruising Speed Demands a Great Suit of SailsI like to sail fast mostly in the heavy winds that Lake Ontario throws.

" * " indicates required fields

Thanks for telling us a bit about yourself and your boat. Our team will send you a preliminary quote based on information we have gathered from sailors similar to you.

We will give you a call in order to narrow down the options on your quote and improve the accuracy. If you want us to call you at a specific time, feel free to schedule a time on our calendar!

Thanks for telling us a bit about yourself and your boat. Our team will reach out to offer some suggestions and get started on finding you the perfect sail!

The Ultimate Guide to Sail Types and Rigs (with Pictures)

What's that sail for? Generally, I don't know. So I've come up with a system. I'll explain you everything there is to know about sails and rigs in this article.

What are the different types of sails? Most sailboats have one mainsail and one headsail. Typically, the mainsail is a fore-and-aft bermuda rig (triangular shaped). A jib or genoa is used for the headsail. Most sailors use additional sails for different conditions: the spinnaker (a common downwind sail), gennaker, code zero (for upwind use), and stormsail.

Each sail has its own use. Want to go downwind fast? Use a spinnaker. But you can't just raise any sail and go for it. It's important to understand when (and how) to use each sail. Your rigging also impacts what sails you can use.

On this page:

Different sail types, the sail plan of a bermuda sloop, mainsail designs, headsail options, specialty sails, complete overview of sail uses, mast configurations and rig types.

This article is part 1 of my series on sails and rig types. Part 2 is all about the different types of rigging. If you want to learn to identify every boat you see quickly, make sure to read it. It really explains the different sail plans and types of rigging clearly.

Guide to Understanding Sail Rig Types (with Pictures)

First I'll give you a quick and dirty overview of sails in this list below. Then, I'll walk you through the details of each sail type, and the sail plan, which is the godfather of sail type selection so to speak.

Click here if you just want to scroll through a bunch of pictures .

Here's a list of different models of sails: (Don't worry if you don't yet understand some of the words, I'll explain all of them in a bit)

• Jib - triangular staysail
• Genoa - large jib that overlaps the mainsail
• Spinnaker - large balloon-shaped downwind sail for light airs
• Gennaker - crossover between a Genoa and Spinnaker
• Code Zero or Screecher - upwind spinnaker
• Drifter or reacher - a large, powerful, hanked on genoa, but made from lightweight fabric
• Windseeker - tall, narrow, high-clewed, and lightweight jib
• Trysail - smaller front-and-aft mainsail for heavy weather
• Storm jib - small jib for heavy weather

I have a big table below that explains the sail types and uses in detail .

I know, I know ... this list is kind of messy, so to understand each sail, let's place them in a system.

The first important distinction between sail types is the placement . The mainsail is placed aft of the mast, which simply means behind. The headsail is in front of the mast.

Generally, we have three sorts of sails on our boat:

• Mainsail: The large sail behind the mast which is attached to the mast and boom
• Headsail: The small sail in front of the mast, attached to the mast and forestay (ie. jib or genoa)
• Specialty sails: Any special utility sails, like spinnakers - large, balloon-shaped sails for downwind use

The second important distinction we need to make is the functionality . Specialty sails (just a name I came up with) each have different functionalities and are used for very specific conditions. So they're not always up, but most sailors carry one or more of these sails.

They are mostly attached in front of the headsail, or used as a headsail replacement.

The specialty sails can be divided into three different categories:

• downwind sails - like a spinnaker
• light air or reacher sails - like a code zero
• storm sails

The parts of any sail

Whether large or small, each sail consists roughly of the same elements. For clarity's sake I've took an image of a sail from the world wide webs and added the different part names to it:

• Head: Top of the sail
• Tack: Lower front corner of the sail
• Foot: Bottom of the sail
• Luff: Forward edge of the sail
• Leech: Back edge of the sail
• Clew: Bottom back corner of the sail

So now we speak the same language, let's dive into the real nitty gritty.

Basic sail shapes

Roughly speaking, there are actually just two sail shapes, so that's easy enough. You get to choose from:

• square rigged sails
• fore-and-aft rigged sails

I would definitely recommend fore-and-aft rigged sails. Square shaped sails are pretty outdated. The fore-and-aft rig offers unbeatable maneuverability, so that's what most sailing yachts use nowadays.

Square sails were used on Viking longships and are good at sailing downwind. They run from side to side. However, they're pretty useless upwind.

A fore-and-aft sail runs from the front of the mast to the stern. Fore-and-aft literally means 'in front and behind'. Boats with fore-and-aft rigged sails are better at sailing upwind and maneuvering in general. This type of sail was first used on Arabic boats.

As a beginner sailor I confuse the type of sail with rigging all the time. But I should cut myself some slack, because the rigging and sails on a boat are very closely related. They are all part of the sail plan .

A sail plan is made up of:

• Mast configuration - refers to the number of masts and where they are placed
• Sail type - refers to the sail shape and functionality
• Rig type - refers to the way these sails are set up on your boat

There are dozens of sails and hundreds of possible configurations (or sail plans).

For example, depending on your mast configuration, you can have extra headsails (which then are called staysails).

The shape of the sails depends on the rigging, so they overlap a bit. To keep it simple I'll first go over the different sail types based on the most common rig. I'll go over the other rig types later in the article.

Bermuda Sloop: the most common rig

Most modern small and mid-sized sailboats have a Bermuda sloop configuration . The sloop is one-masted and has two sails, which are front-and-aft rigged. This type of rig is also called a Marconi Rig. The Bermuda rig uses a triangular sail, with just one side of the sail attached to the mast.

The mainsail is in use most of the time. It can be reefed down, making it smaller depending on the wind conditions. It can be reefed down completely, which is more common in heavy weather. (If you didn't know already: reefing is skipper terms for rolling or folding down a sail.)

In very strong winds (above 30 knots), most sailors only use the headsail or switch to a trysail.

The headsail powers your bow, the mainsail powers your stern (rear). By having two sails, you can steer by using only your sails (in theory - it requires experience). In any case, two sails gives you better handling than one, but is still easy to operate.

Let's get to the actual sails. The mainsail is attached behind the mast and to the boom, running to the stern. There are multiple designs, but they actually don't differ that much. So the following list is a bit boring. Feel free to skip it or quickly glance over it.

• Square Top racing mainsail - has a high performance profile thanks to the square top, optional reef points
• Racing mainsail - made for speed, optional reef points
• Cruising mainsail - low-maintenance, easy to use, made to last. Generally have one or multiple reef points.
• Full-Batten Cruising mainsail - cruising mainsail with better shape control. Eliminates flogging. Full-length battens means the sail is reinforced over the entire length. Generally have one or multiple reef points.
• High Roach mainsail - crossover between square top racing and cruising mainsail, used mostly on cats and multihulls. Generally have one or multiple reef points.
• Mast Furling mainsail - sails specially made to roll up inside the mast - very convenient but less control; of sail shape. Have no reef points
• Boom Furling mainsail - sails specially made to roll up inside the boom. Have no reef points.

The headsail is the front sail in a front-and-aft rig. The sail is fixed on a stay (rope, wire or rod) which runs forward to the deck or bowsprit. It's almost always triangular (Dutch fishermen are known to use rectangular headsail). A triangular headsail is also called a jib .

Headsails can be attached in two ways:

• using roller furlings - the sail rolls around the headstay
• hank on - fixed attachment

Types of jibs:

Typically a sloop carries a regular jib as its headsail. It can also use a genoa.

• A jib is a triangular staysail set in front of the mast. It's the same size as the fore-triangle.
• A genoa is a large jib that overlaps the mainsail.

What's the purpose of a jib sail? A jib is used to improve handling and to increase sail area on a sailboat. This helps to increase speed. The jib gives control over the bow (front) of the ship, making it easier to maneuver the ship. The mainsail gives control over the stern of the ship. The jib is the headsail (frontsail) on a front-and-aft rig.

The size of the jib is generally indicated by a number - J1, 2, 3, and so on. The number tells us the attachment point. The order of attachment points may differ per sailmaker, so sometimes J1 is the largest jib (on the longest stay) and sometimes it's the smallest (on the shortest stay). Typically the J1 jib is the largest - and the J3 jib the smallest.

Most jibs are roller furling jibs: this means they are attached to a stay and can be reefed down single-handedly. If you have a roller furling you can reef down the jib to all three positions and don't need to carry different sizes.

Originally called the 'overlapping jib', the leech of the genoa extends aft of the mast. This increases speed in light and moderate winds. A genoa is larger than the total size of the fore-triangle. How large exactly is indicated by a percentage.

• A number 1 genoa is typically 155% (it used to be 180%)
• A number 2 genoa is typically 125-140%

Genoas are typically made from 1.5US/oz polyester spinnaker cloth, or very light laminate.

This is where it gets pretty interesting. You can use all kinds of sails to increase speed, handling, and performance for different weather conditions.

Some rules of thumb:

• Large sails are typically good for downwind use, small sails are good for upwind use.
• Large sails are good for weak winds (light air), small sails are good for strong winds (storms).

Downwind sails

Thanks to the front-and-aft rig sailboats are easier to maneuver, but they catch less wind as well. Downwind sails are used to offset this by using a large sail surface, pulling a sailboat downwind. They can be hanked on when needed and are typically balloon shaped.

Here are the most common downwind sails:

• Big gennaker
• Small gennaker

A free-flying sail that fills up with air, giving it a balloon shape. Spinnakers are generally colorful, which is why they look like kites. This downwind sail has the largest sail area, and it's capable of moving a boat with very light wind. They are amazing to use on trade wind routes, where they can help you make quick progress.

Spinnakers require special rigging. You need a special pole and track on your mast. You attach the sail at three points: in the mast head using a halyard, on a pole, and on a sheet.

The spinnaker is symmetrical, meaning the luff is as long as its leech. It's designed for broad reaching.

Gennaker or cruising spinnaker

The Gennaker is a cross between the genoa and the spinnaker. It has less downwind performance than the spinnaker. It is a bit smaller, making it slower, but also easier to handle - while it remains very capable. The cruising spinnaker is designed for broad reaching.

The gennaker is a smaller, asymmetric spinnaker that's doesn't require a pole or track on the mast. Like the spinnaker, and unlike the genoa, the gennaker is set flying. Asymmetric means its luff is longer than its leech.

You can get big and small gennakers (roughly 75% and 50% the size of a true spinnaker).

Also called ...

• the cruising spinnaker
• cruising chute
• pole-less spinnaker
• SpinDrifter

... it's all the same sail.

Light air sails

There's a bit of overlap between the downwind sails and light air sails. Downwind sails can be used as light air sails, but not all light air sails can be used downwind.

Here are the most common light air sails:

• Spinnaker and gennaker

Drifter reacher

Code zero reacher.

A drifter (also called a reacher) is a lightweight, larger genoa for use in light winds. It's roughly 150-170% the size of a genoa. It's made from very lightweight laminated spinnaker fabric (1.5US/oz).

Thanks to the extra sail area the sail offers better downwind performance than a genoa. It's generally made from lightweight nylon. Thanks to it's genoa characteristics the sail is easier to use than a cruising spinnaker.

The code zero reacher is officially a type of spinnaker, but it looks a lot like a large genoa. And that's exactly what it is: a hybrid cross between the genoa and the asymmetrical spinnaker (gennaker). The code zero however is designed for close reaching, making it much flatter than the spinnaker. It's about twice the size of a non-overlapping jib.

A windseeker is a small, free-flying staysail for super light air. It's tall and thin. It's freestanding, so it's not attached to the headstay. The tack attaches to a deck pad-eye. Use your spinnakers' halyard to raise it and tension the luff.

It's made from nylon or polyester spinnaker cloth (0.75 to 1.5US/oz).

It's designed to guide light air onto the lee side of the main sail, ensuring a more even, smooth flow of air.

Stormsails are stronger than regular sails, and are designed to handle winds of over 45 knots. You carry them to spare the mainsail. Sails

A storm jib is a small triangular staysail for use in heavy weather. If you participate in offshore racing you need a mandatory orange storm jib. It's part of ISAF's requirements.

A trysail is a storm replacement for the mainsail. It's small, triangular, and it uses a permanently attached pennant. This allows it to be set above the gooseneck. It's recommended to have a separate track on your mast for it - you don't want to fiddle around when you actually really need it to be raised ... now.

Why Use Different Sails At All?

You could just get the largest furling genoa and use it on all positions. So why would you actually use different types of sails?

The main answer to that is efficiency . Some situations require other characteristics.

Having a deeply reefed genoa isn't as efficient as having a small J3. The reef creates too much draft in the sail, which increases heeling. A reefed down mainsail in strong winds also increases heeling. So having dedicated (storm) sails is probably a good thing, especially if you're planning more demanding passages or crossings.

But it's not just strong winds, but also light winds that can cause problems. Heavy sails will just flap around like laundry in very light air. So you need more lightweight fabrics to get you moving.

What Are Sails Made Of?

The most used materials for sails nowadays are:

• Dacron - woven polyester
• woven nylon
• laminated fabrics - increasingly popular

Sails used to be made of linen. As you can imagine, this is terrible material on open seas. Sails were rotting due to UV and saltwater. In the 19th century linen was replaced by cotton.

It was only in the 20th century that sails were made from synthetic fibers, which were much stronger and durable. Up until the 1980s most sails were made from Dacron. Nowadays, laminates using yellow aramids, Black Technora, carbon fiber and Spectra yarns are more and more used.

Laminates are as strong as Dacron, but a lot lighter - which matters with sails weighing up to 100 kg (220 pounds).

By the way: we think that Viking sails were made from wool and leather, which is quite impressive if you ask me.

In this section of the article I give you a quick and dirty summary of different sail plans or rig types which will help you to identify boats quickly. But if you want to really understand it clearly, I really recommend you read part 2 of this series, which is all about different rig types.

You can't simply count the number of masts to identify rig type But you can identify any rig type if you know what to look for. We've created an entire system for recognizing rig types. Let us walk you through it. Read all about sail rig types

As I've said earlier, there are two major rig types: square rigged and fore-and-aft. We can divide the fore-and-aft rigs into three groups:

• Bermuda rig (we have talked about this one the whole time) - has a three-sided mainsail
• Gaff rig - has a four-sided mainsail, the head of the mainsail is guided by a gaff
• Lateen rig - has a three-sided mainsail on a long yard

There are roughly four types of boats:

• one masted boats - sloop, cutter
• two masted boats - ketch, schooner, brig
• three masted - barque
• fully rigged or ship rigged - tall ship

Everything with four masts is called a (tall) ship. I think it's outside the scope of this article, but I have written a comprehensive guide to rigging. I'll leave the three and four-masted rigs for now. If you want to know more, I encourage you to read part 2 of this series.

One-masted rigs

Boats with one mast can have either one sail, two sails, or three or more sails.

The 3 most common one-masted rigs are:

• Cat - one mast, one sail
• Sloop - one mast, two sails
• Cutter - one mast, three or more sails

1. Gaff Cat

2. Gaff Sloop

Two-masted rigs

Two-masted boats can have an extra mast in front or behind the main mast. Behind (aft of) the main mast is called a mizzen mast . In front of the main mast is called a foremast .

The 5 most common two-masted rigs are:

• Lugger - two masts (mizzen), with lugsail (cross between gaff rig and lateen rig) on both masts
• Yawl - two masts (mizzen), fore-and-aft rigged on both masts. Main mast much taller than mizzen. Mizzen without mainsail.
• Ketch - two masts (mizzen), fore-and-aft rigged on both masts. Main mast with only slightly smaller mizzen. Mizzen has mainsail.
• Schooner - two masts (foremast), generally gaff rig on both masts. Main mast with only slightly smaller foremast. Sometimes build with three masts, up to seven in the age of sail.
• Brig - two masts (foremast), partially square-rigged. Main mast carries small lateen rigged sail.

4. Schooner

5. Brigantine

This article is part 1 of a series about sails and rig types If you want to read on and learn to identify any sail plans and rig type, we've found a series of questions that will help you do that quickly. Read all about recognizing rig types

Related Questions

What is the difference between a gennaker & spinnaker? Typically, a gennaker is smaller than a spinnaker. Unlike a spinnaker, a gennaker isn't symmetric. It's asymmetric like a genoa. It is however rigged like a spinnaker; it's not attached to the forestay (like a jib or a genoa). It's a downwind sail, and a cross between the genoa and the spinnaker (hence the name).

What is a Yankee sail? A Yankee sail is a jib with a high-cut clew of about 3' above the boom. A higher-clewed jib is good for reaching and is better in high waves, preventing the waves crash into the jibs foot. Yankee jibs are mostly used on traditional sailboats.

How much does a sail weigh? Sails weigh anywhere between 4.5-155 lbs (2-70 kg). The reason is that weight goes up exponentially with size. Small boats carry smaller sails (100 sq. ft.) made from thinner cloth (3.5 oz). Large racing yachts can carry sails of up to 400 sq. ft., made from heavy fabric (14 oz), totaling at 155 lbs (70 kg).

What's the difference between a headsail and a staysail? The headsail is the most forward of the staysails. A boat can only have one headsail, but it can have multiple staysails. Every staysail is attached to a forward running stay. However, not every staysail is located at the bow. A stay can run from the mizzen mast to the main mast as well.

What is a mizzenmast? A mizzenmast is the mast aft of the main mast (behind; at the stern) in a two or three-masted sailing rig. The mizzenmast is shorter than the main mast. It may carry a mainsail, for example with a ketch or lugger. It sometimes doesn't carry a mainsail, for example with a yawl, allowing it to be much shorter.

Special thanks to the following people for letting me use their quality photos: Bill Abbott - True Spinnaker with pole - CC BY-SA 2.0 lotsemann - Volvo Ocean Race Alvimedica and the Code Zero versus SCA and the J1 - CC BY-SA 2.0 Lisa Bat - US Naval Academy Trysail and Storm Jib dry fit - CC BY-SA 2.0 Mike Powell - White gaff cat - CC BY-SA 2.0 Anne Burgess - Lugger The Reaper at Scottish Traditional Boat Festival

Hi, I stumbled upon your page and couldn’t help but notice some mistakes in your description of spinnakers and gennakers. First of all, in the main photo on top of this page the small yacht is sailing a spinnaker, not a gennaker. If you look closely you can see the spinnaker pole standing on the mast, visible between the main and headsail. Further down, the discription of the picture with the two German dinghies is incorrect. They are sailing spinnakers, on a spinnaker pole. In the farthest boat, you can see a small piece of the pole. If needed I can give you the details on the difference between gennakers and spinnakers correctly?

Hi Shawn, I am living in Utrecht I have an old gulf 32 and I am sailing in merkmeer I find your articles very helpful Thanks

Thank you for helping me under stand all the sails there names and what there functions were and how to use them. I am planning to build a trimaran 30’ what would be the best sails to have I plan to be coastal sailing with it. Thank you

Hey Comrade!

Well done with your master piece blogging. Just a small feedback. “The jib gives control over the bow of the ship, making it easier to maneuver the ship. The mainsail gives control over the stern of the ship.” Can you please first tell the different part of a sail boat earlier and then talk about bow and stern later in the paragraph. A reader has no clue on the newly introduced terms. It helps to keep laser focused and not forget main concepts.

Shawn, I am currently reading How to sail around the World” by Hal Roth. Yes, I want to sail around the world. His book is truly grounded in real world experience but like a lot of very knowledgable people discussing their area of expertise, Hal uses a lot of terms that I probably should have known but didn’t, until now. I am now off to read your second article. Thank You for this very enlightening article on Sail types and their uses.

Shawn Buckles

HI CVB, that’s a cool plan. Thanks, I really love to hear that. I’m happy that it was helpful to you and I hope you are of to a great start for your new adventure!

Hi GOWTHAM, thanks for the tip, I sometimes forget I haven’t specified the new term. I’ve added it to the article.

Nice article and video; however, you’re mixing up the spinnaker and the gennaker.

A started out with a question. What distinguishes a brig from a schooner? Which in turn led to follow-up questions: I know there are Bermuda rigs and Latin rig, are there more? Which in turn led to further questions, and further, and further… This site answers them all. Wonderful work. Thank you.

Great post and video! One thing was I was surprised how little you mentioned the Ketch here and not at all in the video or chart, and your sample image is a large ship with many sails. Some may think Ketch’s are uncommon, old fashioned or only for large boats. Actually Ketch’s are quite common for cruisers and live-aboards, especially since they often result in a center cockpit layout which makes for a very nice aft stateroom inside. These are almost exclusively the boats we are looking at, so I was surprised you glossed over them.

Love the article and am finding it quite informative.

While I know it may seem obvious to 99% of your readers, I wish you had defined the terms “upwind” and “downwind.” I’m in the 1% that isn’t sure which one means “with the wind” (or in the direction the wind is blowing) and which one means “against the wind” (or opposite to the way the wind is blowing.)

paul adriaan kleimeer

like in all fields of syntax and terminology the terms are colouual meaning local and then spead as the technology spread so an history lesson gives a floral bouque its colour and in the case of notical terms span culture and history adds an detail that bring reverence to the study simply more memorable.

Hi, I have a small yacht sail which was left in my lock-up over 30 years ago I basically know nothing about sails and wondered if you could spread any light as to the make and use of said sail. Someone said it was probably originally from a Wayfayer wooden yacht but wasn’t sure. Any info would be must appreciated and indeed if would be of any use to your followers? I can provide pics but don’t see how to include them at present

kind regards

Leave a comment

You may also like, 17 sailboat types explained: how to recognize them.

Ever wondered what type of sailboat you're looking at? Identifying sailboats isn't hard, you just have to know what to look for. In this article, I'll help you.

How Much Sailboats Cost On Average (380+ Prices Compared)

• NauticEd Sailing School
• NauticEd on Facebook
• NauticEd sailing videos

Learn to Sail Series – The Jib and Genoa

In this learn to sail series article we’ll discuss the jibsail and the genoa, how they are used and their approximate set for the wind angle.

Both the jib and the genoa can also accurately be referred to as the headsail because it is at the head (bow (front)) of the sailboat. It is called a jib when the foot of the headsail is shorter than the distance from the base of the forestay to the mast. It is called a genoa when the foot of the headsail is longer than the distance from the forestay to the mast. As with the mainsail, you can use the head sails at all points of sail from close haul (usually about 30-40 degrees off from where the wind is coming from) to a downwind run. Headsails are also referred to by number. A number one head sail would mean the largest genoa onboard the vessel. You might also hear a number like 130 headsail which means that the foot is 130% greater that the mast to forestay base  distance.

So as you learn to sail , you’ll find the head sail is relatively easy to operate. The main controls are the two jibsheets. One on each side of the boat. The jibsheet that is on the leeward (downwind) side of the boat is referred to as the working jib because it is tensioned up. The windward jibsheet is referred to as the lazy jibsheet because it is not being used and is left loose. Many new sailors just learning to sail try to pull the lazy sheet tight, partly because it seems unnatural to have a line on a sailboat that is slack. The best position for a lazy sheet to be in is slack but ready to be tensioned by being wrapped around the winch in a clockwise direction one or two times.

Another line attached to the headsail is the halyard. The halyard is the line used solely for hoisting and lowering the headsail. Even if the headsail is a roller furling headsail, it will still have a halyard to hoist it up.

One function of the head sail, which is not obvious to novices as they learn to sail , is that the head sail feeds extra wind to the back side (downwind side) of the mainsail. This provides extra lift function from the increased velocity of the wind being diverted by the head sail. This is explained more in our article which explains how sails actually work.

The set of the headsail should follow the set of the mainsail. As you learn to sail more and more you’ll be able to expertly set the headsail according to the telltales mounted close to the leading edge of the headsail. However, for now, just set it according to how far away from the wind direction you are headed and according to this golden rule: Let the working headsail sheet out until you see the leading edge of the sail begin to fold in on itself then tighten the sheet up a little.

This is actually a fairly accurate way of doing it and you’ll notice that the more away from the wind you steer, the more you will need to let out the headsail sheet. And in doing so, you’ll notice that it is mimicking the set of the mainsail discussed in another article in this series.

On a close haul, which is when the sailboat is steering 30-40 degrees off from the direction of the wind, the best position of the headsail is cranked in tight so that the sail is about 4-6 inches (10 -15 cm) away from the spreader bars on the mast. To some this may seem overly tight and it takes a lot of strength to get the sail in this tight. But alas, this is what will be required to stop the leading edge from folding in on itself.

Headsails vary in size and are hoisted according to the wind conditions. As a general rule, you’d use a 150 genoa in winds up to about 10 knots. A 130 genoa to about 12 knots. A 110 genoa to about 15 knots. A 90 Jib at 20 knots. A 70 jib at 25 knots. A 50 jib at 30 knots. And a storm jibsail anything above 30 knots.

Headsails are either of roller furling type which are becoming more common, or are hanked on by clips to the forestay and raised and lowered each time. Roller furling head sails can not have horizontal battens which help control the airfoil shape of the sail. However some newer design roller furling headsails incorporate vertical battens which aids the shape.

Raise and lower hanked on headsails are reefed by replacing the sail out with a smaller sail this takes time and some serious effort. Roller furling headsails are simply wound up to reduce the size of the sail. This however does create a large leading edge to the headsail which decreases the effectiveness of the sail due to spoiled wind at the leading edge.

We’ll discuss the physics of how the headsail provides forward motion to the sailboat in a follow on article.

For those just learning to sail, NauticEd has put together a free online basic sail trim sailing course.

This learn to sail series is written by Grant Headifen, Educational Director of NauticEd. NauticEd is an online sailing school providing sailing education and sailing certifications to beginner through advanced sailors.

NauticEd Videos

Learn to Sail with NauticEd

Recent Articles

• Weather Helm Vs Lee Helm – What is it? How to use it?
• Trimming the Mainsail and Preventing Rounding Up
• Learn to Sail Series: How to Reef the Headsails
• Learn to Sail Series: How to Reef the Mainsail
• Learn to Sail Series – Reefing the Sails – why?

Social Signin

• Learn to Sail

EvoLve theme by Theme4Press  •  Powered by WordPress NauticEd Sailing School 21st century sailing education

• Unveiling the world of sail types: From genoa to jib

Sailing, a timeless pursuit, requires the harmonious interplay of various elements, with sails being the true heart of the voyage. This article is a voyage of its own, delving into the realm of sail types. From the majestic Genoa to the enigmatic jib, we navigate the language of sails and unveil their significance in the world of sailing.

The canvas of sailing: Types of sails defined

Sails are the engine of a sailing vessel, harnessing the power of the wind to propel the boat forward. They come in a multitude of types, each tailored to specific sailing conditions and purposes.

Navigating with precision: The genoa sails

Genoa sails, also known as genny sails, are a staple in sailing. Their large surface area and triangular shape allow them to capture ample wind, providing substantial driving force to the vessel.

Embarking on a genoa sailing adventure

Sailing with a Genoa sail is a captivating experience. Whether cruising leisurely or racing competitively, the Genoa's versatility shines through, offering impressive speed and agility.

Deciphering sail names: Beyond terminology

Sail names often carry historical significance, reflecting their origins and functions. From mainsails to staysails, understanding these names enriches our appreciation of sailing heritage.

Exploring the dynamics of the genoa sail

The Genoa sail's design impacts its performance. Its overlapping nature with the mainsail enhances aerodynamics, contributing to efficient sailing even in challenging wind conditions.

Read our top notch articles on topics such as sailing, sailing tips and destinations in our Magazine .

Names of sails: A sailing vocabulary

Sailing enthusiasts encounter a lexicon of sail names. From the jib to the spinnaker, each sail type plays a unique role in optimizing a vessel's performance under specific circumstances.

Genoa sailboat: Crafted for high performance

A Genoa sailboat is meticulously designed for speed and performance. These vessels are favored by competitive sailors and enthusiasts seeking an exhilarating and responsive sailing experience.

Triangular sails and their enigmatic beauty

Triangular sails, including the Genoa and jib, dominate the sailing landscape. Their design is a testament to both functionality and aesthetics, embodying the elegance of maritime craftsmanship.

From jib genoa to genoa jib: Variations unveiled

The terms "jib Genoa" and "Genoa jib" refer to variations of the triangular sail design. These terms underscore the distinct positioning and functions of these sails on a sailboat.

Genoa sail vs. jib: Unraveling the distinctions

While both Genoa and jib are triangular sails, they have differences in size and positioning. The choice between them depends on factors like wind conditions and the sailing objectives.

Enjoy your cruise.

Setting sail: The mystery behind triangular sails

Triangular sails, including the Genoa, evoke a sense of wonder and adventure. Their geometry enables effective capture of wind energy, making them integral to a vessel's propulsion.

Genova vs. genoa: Unraveling the connection

"Genova" and "Genoa" both refer to the same type of sail, with "Genova" being the Italian name for this sail. This linguistic connection highlights the global reach of sailing terminology.

Types of jib sails: A spectrum of choices

Jib sails come in various types, each optimized for specific wind conditions. Whether it's a working jib or a storm jib, these sails cater to different sailing scenarios.

Jib vs. genoa: A comparative analysis

Jib and Genoa are often compared due to their triangular shape. Jibs are smaller and more forward on the boat, making them suitable for upwind sailing, while Genoas offer power on different points of sail.

The perfect match: Genoa sail and your boat

Selecting the right sail for your vessel is crucial. Genoa sails are ideal for cruisers seeking versatile performance, while racing enthusiasts might opt for smaller jibs to maximize speed.

Sails are more than fabric and rigging; they are the embodiment of sailing's essence. From Genoa to jib, each sail type weaves a unique narrative of functionality, heritage, and the timeless pursuit of wind-powered adventure.

So what are you waiting for? Take a look at our range of charter boats and head to some of our favourite sailing destinations .

FAQs about sail types

Castle Harbor Boating

Genoa vs Jib Sails: Choosing the Right Sail for Your Conditions

Imagine you’re setting sail on the vast blue, ready to harness the wind under your trusty sails. But wait, which sail do you hoist? If you’ve ever found yourself scratching your head trying to choose between a genoa and a jib, you’re not alone. These are two of the most common sails found on a variety of boats, and each plays a key role in how your vessel performs.

Understanding the difference between a genoa and a jib isn’t just for seasoned sailors; it’s essential knowledge for anyone who wants to feel confident at the helm. The genoa, a larger sail that often overlaps the mast, offers more power but can be a handful to manage. On the flip side, the jib, though smaller, provides precision and ease of use, making it a favorite for many skippers. Let’s dive into the nuances that set these sails apart and discover which might be the best fit for your sailing adventures.

Understanding Genoa and Jib Sails

Defining Genoa Sails

A Genoa sail, commonly referred to as a “Genoa,” extends beyond the mast toward the bow of the boat, offering a larger surface area than a standard jib. It’s designed to capture more wind, which significantly enhances the boat’s power, especially during light wind conditions. Genoas are categorized by their size, typically described in terms of percentage that represents the sail’s overlap with the mast. For instance, if you see a Genoa listed as 150%, this means the sail extends 50% beyond the mast. Such a design can increase your boat’s speed but it often requires skillful handling due to its size.

Defining Jib Sails

On the other hand, a jib is a triangular sail set ahead of the boat’s main mast. Unlike the Genoa, it does not offer as much overlap with the mast, making it smaller and easier to manage. Jibs are generally preferred for their ability to provide better control and stability, particularly useful when navigating through rough conditions or tight maneuvers. Due to its smaller size, a jib offers less power compared to a Genoa, but it compensates with greater precision and handling ease. Jibs make an excellent choice if you’re seeking balance between simplicity and performance in your sailing experience.

Key Differences Between Genoa and Jib Sails

Size and coverage.

Genoa sails are significantly larger than jib sails, a feature that directly enhances their ability to capture wind. These sails extend past the mast, sometimes wrapping around the forestay, which is the front support of the mast, to maximize the sail area. This extra surface allows for greater collection of wind, particularly beneficial in lighter wind conditions. In contrast, a jib sail, typically smaller, covers less area which reduces its power potential but increases manageability.

Shape and Aerodynamics

The shape of these sails also contributes to their distinct functional roles. Genoa sails exhibit a wider and more rounded shape. This design helps in generating more efficient lift, which is key especially when you’re sailing upwind. The larger curve of the genoa makes it more susceptible to dragging effects and requires careful tuning during different wind conditions. On the other hand, the jib’s triangular shape offers less surface area but is more streamlined, making it easier to control and ideal for maintaining stability in heavier winds or when precise handling is paramount.

Optimal Conditions for Each Sail Type

Best conditions for genoa sails.

Genoa sails thrive in lighter wind conditions, typically under 15 knots. Given their larger surface area, they harness soft breezes better than smaller sails, maximizing your boat’s performance when the wind isn’t providing much help. Ideal for open water where wind currents are less obstructed, genoas help in achieving higher speeds in calm conditions. If your sailing plan includes light wind days, particularly in open seas or large lakes, a genoa could be the perfect choice.

Best Conditions for Jib Sails

Jib sails, on the other hand, excel in stronger wind conditions, offering optimal performance when winds range from 15 to 25 knots. The smaller size of this sail type makes it easier to manage and more effective in maintaining stability and control as wind speed increases. Jibs are particularly effective when you’re navigating through tighter passages or when the sea state is rough. They minimize overpowering and provide better handling, making them suitable for gusty conditions. If you’re expecting a breezy day or sailing in coastal areas with variable winds, a jib sail might be your go-to gear.

Choosing the Right Sail for Your Vessel

Factors to consider.

When picking the right sail for your boat, several factors must weigh into your decision. First, you need to analyze the typical wind conditions you sail in. If you frequent areas with winds usually below 15 knots, a genoa might serve you best, maximizing your speed and efficiency due to its larger surface area. Conversely, if you often face winds between 15 to 25 knots, especially in rough seas or narrow channels, opt for a jib. Its smaller size offers greater control and stability, critical in challenging conditions.

Next, consider your sailing goals. Are you cruising leisurely or participating in races? Genoas are advantageous for light wind racing or open water expeditions where speed is a priority, while jibs are ideal for courses requiring tight maneuvering and precision.

Finally, account for your vessel’s size and the physical space available for sail handling. Larger sails like genoas require more storage space and are heavier to manage, while jibs, being smaller, are easier to handle and store.

• Evaluate Your Skill Level: If you’re a novice, starting with a jib can be a wiser choice due to its easier handling properties. As you gain more experience, you might consider switching to a genoa for enhanced performance in suitable conditions.
• Seek Professional Advice: Consulting with a sailing expert or a seasoned sailmaker can provide insights tailored to your boat’s specifications and your sailing needs.
• Experiment with Rentals: Before committing to a purchase, try renting different sail types. This experience lets you feel the difference in handling and performance firsthand, aiding in a more informed decision.
• Regularly Review Sail Condition: Regularly check your sails for wear and tear. A worn sail won’t perform optimally, regardless of type. Keeping your sails in top condition ensures that you always get the best performance, matching the sail type to current conditions.

Remember, selecting the right sail involves understanding both your needs and the capabilities of your boat under various conditions. Making an informed choice helps maximize your sailing pleasure and safety.

Choosing between a genoa and a jib sail boils down to understanding your sailing environment and your own capabilities. If you’re aiming for speed in lighter winds and have the skills to manage a larger sail, a genoa might be your best bet. On the other hand if you frequent rougher waters or prefer a sail that offers more control and easier handling a jib should be your go-to. Remember to always consider your vessel’s specifications and your own experience level when selecting your sail. Don’t hesitate to seek expert advice and try different options to find what truly works for you. Regular maintenance and periodic reviews of your sail’s condition are also key to ensure you enjoy a safe and exhilarating sailing experience.

What Is The Difference Between a Genoa and Jib? (With Pictures and Tables!)

As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases. We may also earn commissions if you purchase products from other retailers after clicking on a link from our site.

I have been in the sailing community for over 10 years, but I come across new words for the same thing almost every day. Left on a boat is called port, and a rope is a sheet, etc., you know how it goes. When it comes to sails, it is the same; there are many complicated names that often are used interchangeably.

Such is the case with the jib and the genoa, but that ends today! This article is all about explaining the differences between two types of foresails (or headsails).

A jib is a foresail (headsail) that does not extend aft beyond the mast; a genoa, on the other hand, is larger and will overlap the mast and part of the mainsail.   A jib sail is used for strong winds and is easy to handle, while the genoa is perfect for downwind sailing in light winds.

Although often mistaken, a jib is not the same as a genoa. So now that we understand the basics, what does this actually mean if we intend to become great sailors?

Table of Contents

Main Differences Between a Jib and a Genoa Sail

To fully understand what a jib and genoa are we need to first learn some terminology.

• The foresail triangle is the area inside the front stay and the mast when looking at the boat from its side.
• A headsail (or staysail) is the foremost sail that attaches to the forestay and reaches back towards the mast.

When comparing these two sails, the most obvious factor is the size. A jib; as mentioned before, that is so big that its clew (the rear lower corner of the sail) overlaps the mast, is called a genoa. This difference in size results in different sail characteristics, which we will discuss more below.

Looking at the boat from its side, sometimes the genoa is so big you can barely see the mainsail, but on a jib the sail will always fit inside the forestay triangle.

In this picture, you can see the foresail triangle in yellow and the headsail reaching past the mast in red, aka a genoa.

Jibs and genoas are classified by percentages of how much they fill the foresail triangle (the area between forestay, deck, and mast). A jib is only a jib if it stays within the 100% mark (filling, but not exceeding, the foresail triangle space). Anything above that number, 130 %, etc., would be considered a genoa.

The boat-world is full of ambiguity and, of course, so also regarding names of sails; even though this is the most common way to classify sails, some would argue that jibs are up to 130%. And some will use the word jib and genoa interchangeably, but:

As long as you see the foresail triangle and how much space the headsail occupies, you now know what type of sail it is.

Jibs and genoas can be made in the same materials, so the increased weight from a genoa is mainly due to increased sail area and extra reinforcements. The jib is usually easier to mount because of its low weight and since it is a smaller package to handle.

Ease of Handling

Handling a jib under sail is somewhat more manageable than the larger genoa since the jib does not extend beyond the mast. It cannot get stuck or entangled in a spreader or side stay (which a genoa often does). Tacking is, therefore, much more straightforward and smoother, and perfect for beginners.

If you are using a hank-on system, changing to the larger genoa will also be tougher to hoist, which of course can be mitigated using electric winches.

Potential Longevity

As we discussed above, the smaller jib has fewer contact points with other parts of the boat . Fewer points of contact mean less chafing and potentially longer life; this life expectancy can, of course, be dramatically reduced if we are talking about a storm jib that will only be used in really rough weather.

Stowing Away and Attaching The Headsail

Lower weight and smaller size make stowing easier. Not only will it pack away much more conveniently, but getting the sail from its stowaway position to its “ready to hoist” position is straightforward compared to a huge “I’m walking with arms full.”

Sailing Basics: When To Use The Genoa

You should use your genoa when winds are low, and you are not getting enough speed out of your jib and mainsail setup .

This is the time to change for the larger and more powerful genoa. The genoa will direct more wind over the mainsail, increasing lift, and boat speed.

Being overpowered on a monohull is when the heeling angle increases (the boat tilts to its side), but the speed of the boat doesnt. A catamaran acts differently and it doesnt heel, instead, you will have to keep an eye on the wind speed table to make sure you dont risk breaking the mast or capsizing.

If you want to know how and when catamarans actually capsize based on statistics, I suggest you read this post of mine: Why catamarans capsize .

Sailing Basics: When To Use The Jib

The jib’s primary use comes from creating an airfoil and feeding the mainsail with smooth flowing air. This means less turbulence and higher efficiency over the mainsail, even though the jib has a small sail area.

Smaller headsails such as the jib are also used for long-distance passage-making, where the risk of enduring storms for days on end is real. For ocean cruising like this, most boats employ a multi headsail setup where at least one should be a small jib.

There is also a place for the storm jib,  something made explicitly for really high winds; these types of staysails can come into two types; either they are of the hank on style, which means you will have to hank off the other headsail before you mount your storm sail.

Or it is of the type that you put over the already furled headsail. Many times the storm jib has a very bright orange color and offers extra strength materials and sowing. The storm jib is even smaller than your already small jib.

Main Similarities Between Genoa And Jib

As we have seen above, there are some differences between the two, mainly in size and therefore also when to use them. But these things aside, there are actually more things in common than what separates them.

Both are headsails or staysails (want to understand catamaran parts? read  this ) and provide balance and power to the cat.

Often, a headsail can be enough to propel the boat at a pleasant and comfortable speed, but what you will notice is that the ship will have a different feel if sailing without the mainsail. The headsail is also very easy to  sail single-handedly ; the roller furling system makes adding or retracting sail area very straightforward while still letting the crew rest.

On the other hand, the mainsail usually requires one or more people to get on top of the deck to pack it up and safely store it.

Raising, Reefing, and Furling a Headsail.

The genoa and the jib can be mounted on a furling system that rolls the canvas up onto the forestay when it is not in use. This is the most common setup since it is fast, easy, and very safe.

Both sails can also use the hank-on system (picture above), which is slower and requires more effort by the crew but minimizes the airflow disturbances that a semi-rolled up furling system will induce.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between a headsail and a jib.

This is a common question and hopefully, after reading the above you now know that a Jib is a small type of headsail just as a genoa is a large type of headsail.

If you remember anything from this article, I would say this should be the thing;

A jib is smaller and does not overlap the mast or mainsail; the genoa is larger and extends past the mast. The Jib is perfect for rough weather and is easier to use, stow, and attach. The Genoa is heavier, better for light wind conditions, and optimized for downwind performance!

Owner of CatamaranFreedom.com. A minimalist that has lived in a caravan in Sweden, 35ft Monohull in the Bahamas, and right now in his self-built Van. He just started the next adventure, to circumnavigate the world on a Catamaran!

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Save my name and email in this browser for the next time I comment.

Recent Posts

Must-Have Boat Gear for Catamaran Sailors!

Sailing is probably the most gear-intensive activity I've ever done; there are so many decisions to be made about what gear to buy now, for tomorrow, and what to definitely never buy. The gear on...

6 Best Trailerable Trimarans For Bluewater and Coastal Sailing

Having a boat costs a lot of money, even when you are not using it, marina fees, etc. And once it is in the water most sailors never go very far from their "home marina" and sailing will be somewhat...

Dave Dellenbaugh Sailing

David Dellenbaugh is a champion helmsman, tactician, author, coach, rules expert and seminar leader who has spent his career helping sailors sail faster and smarter.Here are the learning resources that he has created to help you improve your racing skills.

• The FAST Course

Jib and Genoa Trim

The jib and genoa are very important because they provide most of the driving force for your boat. There are two reasons for this:  First, your headsail has no mast in front of it to create turbulence and spoil clean flow.  Second, it sails in a continual lift caused by the main's upwash. 

Upwash is the bend that a sail induces in the approaching air flow.  For example, the wind begins to curve around a mainsail well before it actually touches the sail.  Sitting in this upwash region, the genoa thinks it is in a lift, and consequently can be trimmed farther off the centerline of the boat than the main. This makes the genoa more efficient by rotating its forces (perpendicular to the chord line) more forward and less sideways than the main.    

If your main is the sailplan's rudder, then the genoa is its motor. Of course, their functions overlap, but in general you should trim your genoa for drive and your main for helm balance.

Describing a genoa

The most obvious characteristics of a genoa are its size and shape.  We measure genoas by the length of their LP, or luff perpendicular.  To construct an LP, draw a line from the sail's clew to its luff, intersecting the luff at a right angle.  The length of the LP divided by J (the distance from the forestay to the front of the mast) equals the overlap of the sail.

      LP divided by J =  Overlap (%)

On IOR boats, the largest headsails usually have a 150% overlap; No. 2s have a 130% overlap; No. 3s have a 98% overlap, and so on. Most PHRF boats are allowed 155% genoas without penalty.

The sails that are less than maximum size are used in heavier winds once the maximum amount of force for a given boat has been reached.  Beyond this point, maximum sail area simply overburdens the boat, and it's better to reduce drag by changing down to a smaller jib. This will improve the lift-to-drag ratio (the best indicator of upwind performance) by holding lift at a minimum while lowering drag. 

Note that smaller headsails are almost always shorter on the foot, but still nearly full hoist. The reason for this is that a high-aspect-ratio sail is more efficient.  The sailmaker preserves the maximum wingspan of the boat's foils, but shortenis their width to the limits of construction technology.

Genoa Trimming Procedure

Like the mainsail trimmer, the person who tends the genoa needs a methodical approach to cover all variables and maintain fast shapes. Here is a trimming procedure that you can use when you set up your genoa. The six basic steps are:

• Determine overall power by selecting the correct genoa.
• Determine the efficiency of the genoa with the lead angle.
• Set depth and twist with sheet tension.
• Set depth and twist with the fore-and-aft lead position.
• Set depth and twist with backstay tension.
• Set draft position with halyard tension.

Step 1: Determine Overall Power by Selecting the Correct Sail

This first step isn't too tough if you sail in a one-design class that allows only one jib, but it can be perplexing on big boats with up to 14 headsails.  The best way to make good sail selection choices is to keep a record of the headsails you use with wind velocities and boat performance. After a while you'll have an extensive chart as a guide.

Since your genoa determines your ultimate sailpower and the total heeling force, heel angle is a very important indicator when choosing a sail.  As a rule, if your heel exceeds about 25 degrees, change down to a smaller genoa.  Long and narrow boats may be able to maintain speed with a bit more heel than this, but modern fractional rigs must be sailed considerably flatter.

Helm balance is another consideration. If you have too much helm, changing to a smaller genoa might be a good idea. This relieves windward helm by reducing the angle of heel, removing sail area from the back of the genoa, and permitting the traveler to be eased further, which opens the main's leech.

Don't forget that each of your headsails is designed for a maximum wind velocity. This number (specified as true or apparent wind) should be written clearly on the genoa clew, so you'll be sure to change before exceeding that limit. Finally, if you can flog your main and maintain the same speed, it's time to depower.

Step 2:  Set Genoa Efficiency with the Lead Angle

It is common to measure the angle between the boat's centerline and your genoa's sheeting base. Many new boats today are able to move their jib leads sideways as well as fore and aft, which gives them much better control over their lead angle.

A narrow sheeting angle works best for high-efficiency conditions when the hull is easily driven.  Narrowing the sheeting angle rotates the sail's forces to the side, cutting down on drive and increasing heel, but letting you point higher.  Though this makes the genoa more efficient, the sail is also very critical -- more prone to stall and less able to accelerate. 

Sheet inboard when you have these conditions:

• Experienced helmsman
• You'd rather point than foot
• The boat is efficient underwater

Use a wider sheeting angle when conditions demand that you sacrifice some efficiency for more reliable power:

• Very strong or very light wind
• Genoa at the top of its range
• Heavy chop or sea
• Boat is inefficient underwater
• Helmsman is inexperienced
• You need to foot, not point

In summary, sheet inboard in ideal conditions and sheet outboard to play it safe at other times. On well-sailed boats, the lead angle is adjusted quite often with an athwartships jib lead puller. If your boat isn't rigged for this, use a barberhauler, a short sheet that pulls the genoa clew outboard or inboard.

Step 3:  Adjust Twist and Depth with Sheet Tension

The genoa trimmer's primary responsibility is to maintain optimal sail shape as wind velocity and other conditions change. More than any other control, sheet tension must be adjusted to preserve the same basic trim. 

The trimmer's secondary responsibility is to help the helmsman steer the boat. For example, he should ease the sheet for big waves or sudden lifts, and trim for flat spots and headers. Then, as the helmsman brings the boat back up to speed and on the wind, the trimmer must slowly re-trim the sheet. All this requires constant communication to make it work properly.

Trimming the sheet affects the genoa in several ways. It reduces twist, reduces depth and narrows the sheeting angle all at the same time. These changes combine to let you point higher.  Easing the sheet has the opposite effect -- more speed and less pointing ability.               

As a guide for proper sheet tension, observe how far the genoa is from the upper spreader and from the chainplates.  We cannot prescribe these exact distances without knowing more about your boat and the conditions you're sailing in. These are measurements you'll have to get (and add to your sail data) through trial and error.

Step 4:  Set Twist and Depth with Fore-and-Aft Lead Position

The fore-and-aft position of the genoa has a significant effect on twist and depth in the foot.  Remember that twist is the change in chord angles (relative to the centerline) from the foot to the head of the sail, and is necessary because of wind twist aloft due to gradient and sheer. 

When sail twist matches wind twist, the genoa is perfectly trimmed from top to bottom. Now the sail should luff simultaneously up and down the luff when you head up slowly past close-hauled.  Set your lead position by luffing up slowly and watching your tell-tales.  The windward telltales should 'break' evenly from top to bottom at the same time. 

If the top telltales flutter before the bottom, the sail is twisted too much.  Move the lead forward to pull down on the clew, increase leech tension and reduce twist.  If the bottom telltales luff first, the sail needs more twist.  Move the lead aft to relax tension on the leech, allowing the clew to rise and the sail to twist.

Moving the genoa lead position also affects foot depth, much as the outhaul controls foot depth on a mainsail.  To add depth, move the lead forward.  This shortens the distance from clew to tack, and moves the foot of the sail farther away from the chainplates.  (The upper two-thirds of the genoa will keep about the same shape.)

Use your Sailscope to measure the depths of your sail at each of the three draft stripes (the middle one is most important).  The table in Figure 12 gives approximate target depths for the various genoas.  Note that the depths do not vary too much from sail to sail.  The acceptable range of genoa depths is actually quite narrow.  (If your boat has an unusual sailplan, hull shape or sheeting angle, these suggested depths may not work for you.)

Step 5:  Adjust Depth and Twist with Backstay Tension

The backstay (masthead rig) and running backstay (fractional) affect depth in the middle and upper genoa sections by controlling headstay sag.  To a lesser extent, they affect twist.

When you have power-hungry conditions (light air, choppy water) you need a deep sail.  Sag the headstay by easing off backstay tension.  This adds depth to the genoa as the luff moves closer to the leech.  On a fractional boat, ease the running backstay for the same purpose.

The added depth will be noticeable in the upper half of the sail where the sag is large relative to the chord length. Also, sag will add depth mainly to the front of the sail, making a rounder entry and a more forgiving shape.

In light air, take care to ease the backstay enough to actually increase sag and fullness, especially in the lulls.  Light-air backstay tension should be about 25% of maximum.  You'll know it's too loose when the luff snaps and curls like a spinnaker.

To check sag visually, sight up the forestay from the tack while someone plays the backstay.  You'll notice that gusts automatically add a lot of sag. This is exactly the opposite of what should happen. When a gust hits, you want to flatten the sail and depower it. 

Your backstay will need a lot of range and power simply to counteract undesirable sag, let alone lessen sag as the wind strengthens. For each of your genoas, you'll have to adjust the backstay quite a bit to change the sail's shape from the low to the high end of its wind range.

The nice thing about fractionally rigged boats is that the runners are so easy to play. Consequently, they should be adjusted continuously, in concert with the genoa trimmer and helmsman, to keep the boat sailing as fast as possible.

Twist -- Besides adding depth, headstay sag adds power by reducing twist. It does this by letting the luff drop slightly to leeward, which rotates the leech slightly to windward.  This is fine for medium air and a chop, but disastrous in a breeze because it adds power where it contributes most to heeling force -- at the top of the rig.  In these conditions you need a tighter headstay to open the leech and depower the sail.

Step 6:  Set Draft Position with Halyard Tension

Draft position in a genoa is controlled primarily with halyard tension. This works a lot like the cunningham -- more tension moves the draft forward and less moves it aft. Be sure to put a reference mark on each halyard (as described in Preparation) so you can compare and duplicate settings.

Use your Sailscope to locate the position of maximum draft on each of your draft stripes. For No. 1 genoas, draft position should be roughly 45-47%.  Refer back to Figure 12 for some rough draft position targets for each headsail.

A draft forward shape (40%-45%) is more forgiving than a draft aft shape (47%-50%).  Move the draft forward when you need a wider groove, such as in a chop or with an inexperienced helmsman. Move draft aft in ideal conditions (i.e. smooth water and medium air) for maximum pointing ability.

The "groove" -- Let's examine the importance of draft position a little more closely.  What do we mean when we say a draft-forward sail is more forgiving and has a wider groove? 

The groove is that optimal combination of sail trim, boatspeed and pointing ability at which your boat comes alive.  We're always searching for the groove when we sail upwind (and downwind).

We can make the groove easier to find by increasing halyard tension or headstay sag to make the genoa more draft forward.  A draft-forward shape is more forgiving because it's harder to stall. In other words, the helmsperson can make wider course changes and still keep flow attached on the leeward telltales.

The disadvantage to widening the groove is that it harms your flat-water pointing ability. So the groove should only be wide enough in each condition for the helmsman to control the telltales with the helm.

Telltales -- The genoa trimmer's most useful trim indicators are telltales placed along the luff of the headstay.  The leeward telltales should always flow aft.  If they hang limp, the sail is stalled, and the trimmer should ease the sheet immediately to reattach flow. 

It's important for the trimmer to help the helmsman respond to changes in the wind. The trimmer can react faster than the helmsman, especially in light air when the boat turns slowly.  If the helmsman tries to hurry by jamming the tiller hard over, the rudder will brake the boat. He has to let the sails turn the boat. If the sheet is eased first, it will help the helmsman head up slowly, and the jib can be re-trimmed in concert. This maintains the best speed.

Reaching Without a Spinnaker

Trying to sail fast on a close reach can often be frustrating. If the wind angle is too far forward for a spinnaker, it's very hard to find a good lead for the genoa. You need a special set of tracks suspended two feet to leeward of the gunwale.

Here are the problems whenever your apparent wind is in the 35 to 65 degree range:

• Your hull is too narrow to provide an ideal sheeting base.
• The genoa twists excessively when eased.
• Moving the lead forward to reduce twist adds too much depth to the genoa foot.

Your first move should certainly be to move your jib lead out to the rail, and forward somewhat from its upwind position. Unfortunately, there is not always much more you can do. Unless you carry a special reaching sail, you'll just have to wait for the wind to go aft so you can set your chute. 

When Your Genoa Gets Old

Sooner or later, all your genoas get old. They drag across the rig a few hundred times, get stuffed into under-sized turtles and maybe get used in a little too much. Aging is inevitable and, unfortunately, so is the fact that some of these sails will have to be used for racing. What can be done to give an old sail a fighting chance?

First of all, it's important to understand that, compared to a new sail, an older genoa is more draft aft; further away from the rig; flatter in the forward sections; fuller overall; and tighter leeched. When you put all this together you have a slow sail, unless you take a few counter-measures:

• Trim the foot harder (closer to the chainplates) to bring the upper part of the sail closer to the spreader.
• Use more halyard tension to pull the draft forward so you have a rounder entry (with a wider groove) and more power.
• Increase the lead angle slightly to reduce main backwinding caused by roundness near the leech.
• Move the lead back slightly to twist the leech more.

As with the main, take pictures of any headsail you think could be improved, and show these to your sailmaker. It may be possible to bring the sail back to life with a bit of inexpensive surgery.

• The Newsletter
• Current Issue
• See a Sample Issue
• Get a FREE Sample Issue
• Newsletter Index
• Renew Subscription
• Gift Subscriptions
• Order Back Issues
• Testimonials
• Contributors
• Get Promotional Issues
• Reprint Permission
• Free back Issues
• Speed & Smarts Gift Card
• Learn the Racing Rules
• Buy Racing Rules Course
• Contents List
• 8 Reasons to get ‘LTRR 2024’
• Sample Video
• Rule Quizzes
• Log in to your LTRR 2024
• Webinar Schedule
• Webinar Replays
• Webinar Description
• Instructors
• Seminar Testimonials
• Order Workbooks
• Host a Webinar
• Pay for Webinar
• Services Offered
• Coaching Resume
• Winning Tips
• Around the Buoys
• Smallboat Sailing
• The SMART Course
• Miscellaneous

Jib vs. Genoa – What is the difference?

Sailing, a timeless art and sport, has seen numerous technological advancements and design innovations over the years. Among the most critical components of a sailboat are the sails themselves, specifically the Genoa and Jib sails. These two types of headsails play a vital role in maneuvering and performance, each with unique characteristics and applications.

A Genoa sail , often referred to as an overlapping sail, is a large foresail that extends past the mast, providing increased sail area. It’s particularly effective in light wind conditions, where maximizing the surface area exposed to the wind is crucial. The Genoa’s design, size, and trimming are essential factors in harnessing wind power efficiently.

On the other hand, a Jib sail , known as a non-overlapping sail, is typically smaller and easier to handle, especially in strong wind conditions. The jib’s size, shape, and material contribute to its functionality, making it an essential part of the sailboat’s rigging.

Historical Context

The evolution of these sails can be traced back to the early days of yachting. The Genoa sail, named after the Italian city of Genoa, revolutionized sailing performance with its overlapping design. The jib, with its various sizes and cuts, has been a staple in sailing, offering versatility and ease of handling.

Importance in Modern Sailing

In modern sailing, the choice between a Genoa and a jib is not merely a matter of preference but a strategic decision based on factors such as wind conditions, sailing techniques, and the sailor’s experience level. Whether it’s a leisurely sail on a calm lake or a competitive yacht race in challenging marine weather, understanding the differences, advantages, and disadvantages of these sails is paramount.

From sail shape to sail maintenance, from tacking to gybing, the Genoa and jib are integral to sailing performance. They represent not only the heritage of sailing but also the ongoing innovation and technological advancements in yacht design and sailing equipment.

This introduction sets the stage for a comprehensive exploration of Genoa vs. Jib, delving into their characteristics, differences, and practical considerations for sailors. Whether you’re a seasoned sailor or a novice eager to learn, the following sections will provide valuable insights into these essential components of sailing.

Description and Characteristics of Genoa and Jib sails

Genoa description, shape and size.

The Genoa sail is known for its large size and unique shape, often overlapping the mainsail. This overlapping design allows for a greater sail area, enhancing the sailboat’s performance in light wind conditions. The Genoa’s size is measured as a percentage of the foretriangle, with larger Genoas providing more power but requiring careful handling.

Overlapping the Mainsail

The overlapping characteristic of the Genoa sail is what sets it apart from other headsails. By extending past the mast, it captures more wind, translating into increased speed and maneuverability. This design requires precise trimming and rigging to optimize performance.

Measuring Genoas

Genoas are categorized by their size relative to the foretriangle of the sailboat. A 150% Genoa, for example, means that the sail’s area is 150% of the foretriangle. Understanding the measurements and choosing the right Genoa for specific wind conditions is essential for optimal sailing performance.

Jib Description

Shape and function.

The Jib sail, unlike the Genoa, does not overlap the mainsail. Its smaller size and non-overlapping design make it easier to handle, especially in strong wind conditions. The jib’s shape and function are integral to the sailboat’s tacking and gybing, providing control and stability.

Sizes and Types

Jibs come in various sizes and types, each suited for different sailing conditions. From storm jibs, designed for heavy weather, to working jibs used for everyday sailing, understanding the different types of jibs and their applications is crucial for sailors.

Role in Maneuvering the Boat

The jib plays a vital role in maneuvering the sailboat, especially during tacking and gybing. Its size, cut, and material contribute to the boat’s responsiveness and control, making it an indispensable part of modern sailing.

Differences Between Genoa and Jib

Size and overlap.

The most apparent difference between Genoa and Jib sails lies in their size and overlap. A Genoa sail is larger and overlaps the mainsail, extending beyond the mast. This design allows for more sail area, capturing more wind, and enhancing performance in light wind conditions. In contrast, a Jib sail is smaller and does not overlap the mainsail, making it more manageable, especially in strong winds.

Weight and Handling

The weight and handling of these sails also differ significantly. A Genoa’s larger size means it’s generally heavier and requires more effort to handle, especially during tacking and gybing. It may necessitate additional crew members or specialized equipment like roller furling systems. On the other hand, the jib’s smaller size and non-overlapping design make it lighter and easier to manage, even for single-handed sailors.

Usage in Different Wind Conditions

Genoa and Jib sails are suited for different wind conditions. A Genoa’s larger sail area makes it ideal for light to moderate winds, where it can harness more wind power to propel the boat. In contrast, a jib’s smaller size and ease of handling make it suitable for strong winds, where control and stability are paramount. Sailors must consider these differences when selecting the appropriate sail for their journey, taking into account factors like wind direction, sailing techniques, and the sailboat’s rigging.

Advantages and Disadvantages of Genoa and Jib sails

Advantages of genoa, light wind performance.

The Genoa’s large size and overlapping design make it an excellent choice for light wind conditions. By capturing more wind, it can propel the sailboat even when the breeze is minimal, ensuring a smooth and enjoyable sailing experience.

Increased Sail Area

The increased sail area of the Genoa provides more power, allowing for faster speeds and better upwind performance. This advantage makes the Genoa a popular choice among racers and cruisers alike, seeking to maximize their sailing efficiency.

Advantages of Jib

Strong wind performance.

The jib’s smaller size and non-overlapping design make it ideal for strong wind conditions. It offers better control and stability, reducing the risk of overpowering and ensuring a safer sailing experience.

Ease of Handling

The jib is generally easier to handle, especially during tacking and gybing. Its design allows for quicker adjustments and requires less physical effort, making it suitable for single-handed sailors or smaller crews.

Disadvantages and Challenges

Handling difficulties.

While the Genoa offers many advantages, its large size can also present handling difficulties, especially in unexpected wind shifts or for inexperienced sailors. It may require specialized equipment or additional crew members to manage effectively.

Maintenance and Cost

Both Genoa and jib sails require regular maintenance to ensure optimal performance. The Genoa’s larger size may lead to higher maintenance costs and potential wear and tear. Additionally, having both sails in the sail inventory can increase overall expenses for sailors.

Practical Considerations when Buying New Sails

Selecting the right sail, factors to consider.

Choosing between a Genoa and a jib requires careful consideration of various factors, including wind conditions, sailing techniques, geographic location, and the sailor’s experience level. The right sail can enhance performance, safety, and enjoyment on the water.

Geographic Location and Experience Level

The choice may also depend on the specific sailing location and the sailor’s skill level. For example, a Genoa might be preferred in areas known for light winds, while a jib might be more suitable for strong wind regions or for less experienced sailors.

Sail Inventory and Multiple Sails

Benefits of having different sails.

Having both Genoa and jib sails in the sail inventory offers flexibility and adaptability to various sailing conditions. It allows sailors to switch between sails as needed, optimizing performance and control.

Changing Sails According to Conditions

Understanding when to use a Genoa vs. a jib and how to change sails according to wind conditions is a valuable skill. It requires knowledge of sail shape, rigging, and sailing equipment, ensuring a seamless transition between sails.

Technological Advancements

Roller furling headsails.

Modern sailing has seen technological advancements like roller furling headsails, which allow for easier handling of both Genoa and jib sails. This technology simplifies the process of furling and unfurling the sails, making it accessible to sailors of all experience levels.

New Design Considerations

Innovations in sail design, material, and construction have also contributed to the versatility and efficiency of Genoa and jib sails. These advancements provide more options for sailors, enhancing the sailing experience and reflecting the ongoing evolution of the sport.

Conclusion and Recommendations

Summary of key differences.

The comparison between Genoa and Jib sails reveals distinct differences in size, overlap, weight, handling, and usage in various wind conditions. While the Genoa’s larger size offers advantages in light winds, the jib’s smaller, non-overlapping design provides control in strong winds. These differences influence the choice of sail, sailing performance, and the overall sailing experience.

Practical Recommendations for Sailors

Understanding the differences between Genoa and jib sails empowers sailors to make informed decisions. Here are some practical recommendations:

• When to Use Genoa vs. Jib : Consider wind conditions, sailing techniques, and experience level when selecting the appropriate sail.
• Maintenance Tips : Regular maintenance, including inspection for wear and tear, ensures optimal performance and longevity of both sails.
• Invest in Technology : Consider investing in technologies like roller furling headsails to enhance ease of handling.

Future Trends and Innovations

The world of sailing continues to evolve, with innovations in sail design, material, and technology. Future trends may include:

• Sustainable Materials : Eco-friendly materials for sails that reduce environmental impact.
• Smart Sailing Technology : Integration of sensors and automation to optimize sail performance.
• Customized Sail Design : Personalized sails tailored to individual sailing styles and conditions.

These trends reflect the ongoing innovation in sailing, connecting tradition with modernity, and offering new horizons for sailors.

Final Thoughts

The exploration of Genoa vs. Jib sails delves into the heart of sailing, uncovering the nuances, complexities, and joys of this timeless art. Whether a seasoned sailor or a novice eager to learn, understanding these sails’ characteristics, advantages, disadvantages, and practical considerations enriches the sailing journey. It’s a journey that transcends mere sport, connecting us with nature, history, and ourselves. The sails may change, but the essence of sailing remains, an endless adventure guided by the wind, the waves, and the human spirit.

With this conclusion, the article offers a comprehensive understanding of Genoa and Jib sails, providing valuable insights and inspiration for sailors of all levels. It’s a tribute to the enduring legacy and vibrant future of sailing.

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

What Is The Steering Wheel On A Ship Called?

What Is Tacking & How To Tack A Sailboat

How long does it take to sail around the world in a sailboat?

Leave a reply cancel reply.

Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.

EVEN MORE NEWS

Boat Drinking: Understanding the Law

Popular category.

• Equipment 5
• Advertisement

What Is A Genoa Sail Used For?

Want to know what a Genoa is used for? We have everything you need to know about Genoa sails.

There are various sails used on boats, each with distinct advantages and disadvantages. There are two major forms of headsails on any small boat, the jib, which many will have heard of, and the genoa. But what exactly is a genoa used for?

Genoa sails are mainly used on twin-masted boats such as ketches and yawls. It is larger than a jib sail and often reaches past the mast. It has a larger surface area which can increase the craft's speed in light and moderate winds.

This article will discuss what exactly a genoa sail is used for. So keep reading! We have everything you need to know about Genoa sails.

What Is A Genoa Sail And What's Its Purpose?

A genoa sail is considered a large staysail, sometimes referred to as a jib, that extends past the boats mast, thus, overlapping the main sail if viewed from the side. Genoa sails were initially known as overlapping jibs, then genoa jibs, and now simply genoa sails.

A genoa is generally used on single-masted sloops and various twin-masted boats, including ketches and yawls. The genoa sail has a larger surface area when compared to regular jibs, which in turn increases the boat's speed when sailing in light and moderate winds.

A genoa, sometimes referred to as a genny, refers to a specific kind of jib sail that is larger than the ship's foretriangle. The foretriangle is a triangular area formed by three points that intersect on the boat, where the stay intersects the mast and bowsprit and when the mast joins to the deck.

So any jib sail that is 100% larger than the foretriangle is generally considered to be a genoa sail. Genoa sails are larger, and thus their leech will extend beyond the mast and even overlap the mainsail. To maximize the sail area with a genoa, the sail is typically positioned parallel and close to the boat's deck.

Genoa Foretrignale Percentage

Jib sails such as genoas are easily understood when they are divided into their areas relative to the 100% surface area of the foretriangle. When getting your boat ready for a sailing race, the various classes are often divided by the size of their genoa.

So, there are various classes of genoas that include: number 1 and number 2 style genoas.

A number 1, sometimes referred to as a modern number 1 genoa, will have a surface area of around 155% the size of the foretriangle, whereas a historical number 1 would have had a sail around 180% the size of the foretriangle.

Number 2's generally range around 120 to 140% of the size of the foretriangle surface area, so they are generally smaller. Your average job will also be measured in the same way, except they will measure around 100% of the foretriangle surface area or less, i.e., a much smaller sail.

Genoa Vs. Jib Sails

Jibs and Genoas are both triangular sails, which are similar in nature, and are affixed in front of the boat's mast. So, Jib is simply the general name applied to various headsails; however, while a genoa is technically still a jib sail, it's used to define a much larger sail that takes up a higher percentage of the overall foretriangle.

Normal jibs, i.e., anything that's 100% the surface area of the foretriangle and smaller, are often considered to be easier to control and maintain, which is why they're popular amongst smaller crews; they are also less expensive.

Jibs are sometimes referred to as non-overlapping sails, the opposite of genoas, and may have an increased level of longevity as their leeches will not drag across your mast, spreaders, or shrouds.

Another benefit is that jibs weigh a lot less than genoa sales due to their smaller size. This has numerous benefits, but the two major ones are: firstly, it's easier to handle a jib sail, both to change or trim it. Secondly, the low weight ensures less itching and healing.

So, in simple terms, a genoa is generally considered a jib that overlaps the mast, but from time to time, you may hear the terms used interchangeably. Both have their benefits, and will even beginner sailors know this.

So, now you know exactly what a genoa sail is, are you ready to put this knowledge into action? Just remember, if you are hoping to use this information in a practical sense, a genoa is simply a jib sail that is larger than the boat's foretriangle; this results in more speed in light and moderate winds.

What Is the Difference Between a Racing Yacht and a Cruising Yacht?

What does the jib do when sailing, galley equipment buying guide.

Sail Types: A Comprehensive Guide to 8 Types of Sails

Sailboats come in all shapes and sizes. And that means there are many types of sails on the market! For those who might not know, sails are made of canvas and use wind power to propel sailboats through the water.

Understandably, different sails are required for different types of sailboats . And sailboats are categorized by the number of hulls they have. Monohulls have a single-hull design, catamarans have two hulls, and trimarans have three. Generally, sailors use catamarans for upwind sailing (but they can be used to sail downwind in certain conditions). 

The type of sail you'll need for your sailboat depends on the kind of sailboat you have. Additionally, sails are highly dependent on the wind and weather conditions. Therefore, it's always a good idea to have different types of sails on board to navigate the ever-changing weather conditions. 

8 Types of Sails for Sailboats

As mentioned, you should carry multiple sails when sailing to prepare for various weather conditions. Here's a brief overview of the types of sails for sailboats: 

1. Mainsails

The mainsail is the largest and most important sail. Therefore, it's probably the first sail to come to mind when you think of camping. Typically, it's situated directly behind the mast — connected to the boom — and uses wind energy to move the vessel. The mainsail plays a significant role in tacking and gybing, making it essential for any voyage. 

Since the mainsail is a larger sail, it doesn't require wind to propel it forward. And the fact that it can be moved by moving the boom makes it uber-easy to operate. 

Learn More About Sailing

2. Headsail

The headsail often accompanies the mainsail, though it is smaller in size. Regardless of your sailboat type, the headsail is positioned at the front of the mast – over the sailboat's bow. 

Because headsails are small, they are helpful when navigating through windy conditions. Smaller sails catch less wind, preventing them from propelling your boat as strongly as larger sails. Additionally, headsails help lift, balance, and protect the vessel from inclement weather conditions.

While the term 'headsail' refers to any sail in front of the mast, the jib is the most common type of headsail. (And when a jib is so large that it overlaps the mast, it's called a genoa.)

Learn More About Sailboats

3. Genoa 

The genoa is a large sail that attaches to the front of the forestay. (In this instance, it's similar to a headsail.) However, the genoa is larger than the headsail and overlaps the mainsail partially or completely to help the boat go faster. 

Genoa sails are useful when sailing through light or medium wind. You can also use it when the wind comes directly from the rear. If you use a Genoa sail during high winds, you'll probably start sailing too quickly and put yourself and your boat at risk. 

4. Spinnaker

The spinnaker is a large and whimsical (often colorful) sail. Spinnaker sails are usually symmetrical, allowing them to reach different points of sail. Generally, these are lighter sails and don't cover the mast like the genoa. 

Because spinnaker sails are on the larger side, you have to be incredibly careful with them. Don't use them in rough conditions. Instead, save them for sailing in low winds and calm seas.

5. Gennaker

As the name suggests, the Gennaker sail combines a spinnaker and a Genoa sail. They are as large as the spinnaker, although they're not symmetrical.

They come in handy whenever the wind changes from a pure dead run to a reaching point of sail, as sailors can navigate various wind types with the same sail. It's still only meant for lighter and milder winds, but it's more versatile than the spinnaker and genoa. 

6. Light Air Sails

Light air sails are useful in calmer conditions when the headsail and mainsail alone aren't cutting it. They include:

• Code Zero : A code zero sail is a gennaker sail ideal for sailing in light to mild winds. It's designed to create lift and boost boat speed whenever regular sails don't generate enough power. For that reason, many racers and cruisers use code zero sails to improve performance and gain control in various situations.   
• Windseeker : This small, special sail is reserved for no wind or light wind. Essentially, it helps boats remain maneuverable in extremely calm conditions. And for that reason, it's valuable to long-distance sailors. 

7. Storm Jib

Storm jibs can be used as a headsail whenever the weather is particularly rough and windy. Because it functions as a safety seal, it prevents boats from capsizing by reducing the sail area exposed to the wind. Therefore, it's a necessary sail for every sailor. 

Read Next: Boating in Inclement Weather

During strong winds and storms, sailors can raise a trysail — a small, triangular sail near the boat's stern — for better control and stability. Generally, sailors do this whenever the mainsail becomes too large and challenging to maneuver.  

Join Our Newsletter!

Get community news, buying bargains, and how-to guides at your fingertips.

No products in the cart.

Sailing Ellidah is supported by our readers. Buying through our links may earn us an affiliate commission at no extra cost to you.

The Most Popular Types Of Sails On A Sailboat

A sloop-rigged sailboat typically features a mainsail, a headsail, and an additional light-wind sail, such as a spinnaker or Gennaker. The mainsail is rigged aft of the mast, while the headsail is attached to the forestay. The two most commonly used headsails are the Genoa and Jib.

The sails are vital parts of a sailboat since you obviously couldn’t sail without them! There are many different sails depending on the type of sailboat and its rig configuration, and we’ll walk through them together in this article.

The different types of sails on a sailboat

We can divide the selection of sails on a sailboat into three categories:

• Standard sails

Light-wind sails

• Storm sails

Each category serves different purposes depending on the vessel’s rig configuration and the sail’s functionality. 

The standard sails

The standard sails usually form a sailboat’s basic sail plan and include :

• The Mainsail
• The Staysail
• The Mizzen sail

These sails are the ones that are used most frequently on sloop, ketch, and cutter-rigged sailboats and are usually set up to be ready to use quickly.

Headsails are often rolled up on a furler, while the main and mizzen sail are stored on the boom or furled into the mast. 

The halyards and sheets are kept within easy reach, making these sails the primary choice in most situations. Let’s dive further into each of them.

The mainsail is a triangular sail that flies behind the mast on top of the boom . Although it may not always be the largest sail on the vessel, we commonly refer to it as “the main.”

It is a vital sail, and keeping the sail shape trimmed properly on every point of sail is crucial for the stability and performance of the boat.

A Jib sail is a headsail that does not overlap the mainsail. It is typically between 100% and 115% of the foretriangle but can also be smaller. The foretriangle is the triangular area formed by the mast, deck, and forestay. The Jib is often used with a self-tacking system involving a sheet traveler in front of the mast.

This sail is often seen on newer boats with fractional rigs, which typically have a larger mainsail area than the headsail area. However, the Jib is versatile and also used in other configurations.

People often mix the terms Genoa and Jib. Many refer to any headsail as a Jib, which is incorrect. I personally prefer to use the correct terms to avoid confusion .

A Genoa sail resembles a large Jib but extends past the mast and overlaps the mainsail. Genoas are usually larger than 115% of the foretriangle , with sizes ranging from 120% to 150%. They are often used on vessels with masthead rigs and smaller mainsails but are also common on fractional rigs.

The Staysail is typically found on cutter rigs and is set on the inner forestay or cutter stay. It can be combined with other sails, such as a Jib, Genoa, or Yankee, or on its own in stronger winds.

The Staysail is also useful when sailing downwind, as it can be paired with a headsail and extended to opposite sides of the boat using a pole.

The Yankee sail resembles a Genoa and Jib but has a high-cut clew. This shape allows for improved airflow when used with another headsail. The Yankee is often used on cutter-rigged boats in combination with a staysail and is known for its versatility in different wind conditions. 

Mizzen Sail

A mizzen sail is similar to the mainsail, only smaller . It is set on the aft mast of a boat with multiple masts, such as a ketch rig. The mizzen sail is usually used to provide balance and stability to the vessel and provides additional power when sailing downwind.

Another handy usage is to fly the mizzen at anchor to keep the bow up against waves and swell.

The light-wind sails are large, made of thin nylon, and typically shaped like a half-balloon. They are a type of headsails that are great when the winds are too light to fill the standard headsail and are often used when sailing downwind.

The four most commonly used light-wind sails are:

• The Spinnaker
• The Gennaker
• The Code Zero
• The Parasailor

They all provide excellent forward propulsion on a sailboat but usually require some extra rigging to be set. 

Experienced cruisers love to use light-wind sails in nice weather, but they have a critical weakness to be aware of. These sails easily get overpowered when the wind increases, and I strongly advise being careful and observant of the wind conditions when flying them.

(Yes, I have managed to rip mine on one occasion due to getting overpowered, but that’s a different story…)

Let’s continue and take a closer look at each of the light wind sails.

A Spinnaker sail is a large, lightweight downwind sail used at deep angles between 120 and 180 degrees. It is symmetrical in shape with two clews and is often brightly colored. 

The Spinnaker is set by using a pole to extend the sail’s clew to the vessel’s side. Then, a sheet is attached to the other clew and led back to the stern of the boat. 

A Gennaker sail combines the characteristics of the Genoa and Spinnaker. It is made of nylon like the Spinnaker but is asymmetrical like a Genoa and rigged slightly differently. The tack is attached to the bow, and the clew has a sheet led aft to the cockpit. The Gennaker can be equipped with a snuffer to make it even easier to set up and take down.

It is popular among cruisers because it is simpler to use than a spinnaker and it doesn’t require a pole. The sail is effective at angles between 90 degrees and almost all the way down to 180 degrees, making it versatile for various light-wind conditions.

A Parasailor is similar to the Spinnaker in many aspects but has some distinct differences. It has a double-layer wing that inflates as the sail is filled with air, creating a batten-like effect pushing the leech out while providing lift to the bow. 

The wing also helps to prevent the rolling movements you get with a Spinnaker and the collapsing of the leech that can occur with a Gennaker at deep angles.

This makes the parasailor effective at sailing angles between 70 and 180 degrees dead downwind. Parasailors can be set like a Gennaker when reaching or with a pole like the Spinnaker for running downwind.

A Code Zero sail combines some elements of the Genoa and Gennaker. Unlike the Gennaker, the Code Zero has a different shape, allowing it to be used while sailing upwind.

Another benefit is that it can be used with a furler which makes it easy to roll in and out. However, it can’t replace the Gennaker or Spinnaker entirely, as it is not effective at sailing angles deeper than 120 degrees.

If you see a big yacht with three forestay’s, the forward one probably holds a code zero sail. A bow spirit allows the ability to fly additional light wind sails as well!

Storm Sails

The storm sails consist of a small Mainsail and Jib in heavy-duty materials designed for rough conditions. These sails enable us to maintain speed and stability in the boat in severe weather too strong for the standard sails.

Storm sails are often brightly colored , such as red, orange, or yellow, to make them more visible at sea.

Storm Mainsail

A storm mainsail is used when the reefing setup doesn’t allow the standard mainsail area to be reduced enough to prevent overpowering. The sail can handle rough conditions and is excellent for maintaining stability.

A storm Jib is used when the headsail has been furled to the point where it is no longer effective. It is especially useful for sailboats rigged with a Genoa, as the Genoa gets inefficient when heavily reefed. As the storm Jib is smaller than the standard headsail, it also lowers the center of gravity, making the vessel heel less and become more stable.

Explaining the terms for the parts of a sail

Let us talk some more about sails. The goal is to go sailing, right?

Identifying the different parts of the sails is crucial to understanding which lines go where.

Let’s zoom in on a sail and break down the terms :

The head is the top corner of the sail . Most mainsails have a headboard or plate where the halyard is connected, while headsails use a metal ring. A halyard is a line we use to raise and lower sails with.

The leech is the aft part of a sail , located between the clew and head. We use a combination of the outhaul, main sheet, and traveler to trim and adjust the leech on the mainsail.

The headsail’s leech is trimmed by adjusting sheet tension and angle according to the wind speed and direction. A traveler is a track with a movable car or pulley system for adjusting the position and angle of a sheet, and most sailboats have one main traveler for the mainsail and car tracks along the side decks for the headsail. 

The luff of a sail is the front part of the sail between the tack and head. On a mainsail, the luff runs vertically along the mast and along or close to the forestay on a headsail. Headsails are often equipped with luff foam to help maintain their shape when partially reefed on a furler.

Battens are slats or tubes inserted into pockets on the mainsail to help the sail maintain its shape and increase its lifespan . A traditional sail hoisted and lowered on the boom typically has horizontal battens. Vessels with in-mast furling can use vertical battens instead of horizontal ones. 

• A fully battened Mainsail has the battens run through the entire sail length from the luff to the leech.
• A standard battened main sail has the battens along the sail’s leech.

Telltales are small ropes, bands, or flags attached to a sail to give an indication of the airflow around the sail. They help us understand how the wind affects the sail and allow us to fine-tune the trim for optimal performance. Telltales are usually found on the mainsail’s leech and in the front of the headsail’s leech.

The clew of a sail is the lower aft corner and where the outhaul is connected on a mainsail. Headsails have sheets attached to their clew for controlling and trimming the shape and tension.

The tack is the lower, forward corner of a sail.  On a traditional Mainsail, the tack is attached to the Gooseneck, a hinge in front of the boom attached to the mast.

With in-mast furling, the tack is connected to the furling mechanism. This mechanism is used to roll the sail into the mast.

The headsails tack is connected to a furler drum on the forestay on most sailboats. Vessels using traditional hank-on headsails connect the tack to a fixed point on the bow.

The foot of the mainsail is the bottom portion of the sail between the clew and the tack. It is trimmed using the outhaul, a line attached to the clew, and used to adjust the tension on the foot of the sail. Some mainsail are configured loose-footed, and others are attach-footed.

The foot of the headsail is trimmed by adjusting the tension and angle of the sheets, which are the lines used to control the headsail’s clew. We use cars, or pulleys, to adjust the angle of the sheets and thus the trim of the headsail.

Traditional and less commonly seen sails

We’ve now looked at the most commonly used sails and walked through the different parts of them. But what about the less common ones? The art of sailing has a rich history, with some unique sail designs that we rarely see today.

Read on if you want to peek into some traditional sails, or skip straight to popular sail and mast configurations here.

Square sails

Square sails are rectangular and usually set across a ship’s mast, mostly seen on traditional square-rigged sailing ships and Viking ships. These sails are efficient for downwind sailing and are hung from horizontal spars called yards. Though not as agile as modern fore-and-aft sails when sailing upwind, they were central to naval exploration for centuries. Today, they’re mainly seen on traditional vessels and tall ships, symbolizing maritime heritage.

If you’ve been to Martinique in the summer, you may also have noticed the round skiff sailboats the local fishermen traditionally used for fishing in the Atlantic Ocean with their distinctive big squared sails. Tour de Martinique des Yoles Rondes is a popular yearly event where the locals race and show off these beautiful old boats with colorful sails!

A gaff sail is a traditional four-sided sail held up by a horizontal spar called the “gaff.” They are used on classic gaff-rigged sailboats and allow for a larger sail area with a shorter mast. Gaff-rigged boats were traditionally popular and usually carried 25% more sail area than the equivalent Bermudan rig, making them fast on a downwind run. The Gaff rig could also carry a topsail between the gaff and the mast.

However, they don’t sail well to windward, and modern designs have shifted towards triangular sails for better upwind performance.

Jib-headed topsail

The Jib-headed topsail is a small triangular sail used on gaff rigs and is set between the gaff and the top of the mast.

A lug sail is an angled, four-sided sail that attaches at a point on its top side, making it hang tilted. The sail is simple to use and often found on smaller or older boats. There are different types, like standing, dipping, and balance lugs, each hanging differently around the mast.

The lug sail evolved from the square sail to improve how close the vessels could sail into the wind. Because of their upwind performance, fishermen used them widely in Europe from the seventeenth through the nineteenth centuries.

Sprit sails

The spritsail, with its unique four-sided design, stands out thanks to a diagonal support called the “sprit.” It was traditionally popular in Thames sailing barges due to its ability to accommodate high-deck cargo. These days, it’s primarily found in smaller boats like the Optimist dinghy in a variant called “leg of mutton spritsail.”

The spritsail was also used in traditional wooden boats like the fearing version of the Oselvar wooden boat traditionally used in western Norway.

It is also commonly used by the indigenous Guna Yala tribes in Panama in their dugout Ulu’s up to this day. We saw plenty of them when we cruised along the coast, and some of them approached us to sell us their delicious catch of the day!

Lateen sails

A lateen sail is a triangular sail set on a long spar angled on the mast. It was originally popular in the Mediterranean and on Arab shows, and its design enhanced maneuverability and played a crucial role in historic sea exploration.

The lateen sail was used on lateen rigs, the predecessor to the Bermuda rig – one of today’s most commonly used rigs!

Which brings us to the following topic:

Popular sail and mast configurations 

There are many different rigs and sail configurations between sailing vessels. From the old-school square rigs to schooners, gaff rigs, and more. However, this article will focus on the three most popular rigs seen on modern sailboats:

• The Bermuda Sloop Rig
• The Cutter Rig
• The Ketch Rig

The three rigs have similarities and differences between their sail and mast configurations. We’ll walk through each of them to understand how they utilize their different types of sail.

If you want to learn more about other rigs, take a look here .

Bermuda Sloop Rig

The Bermuda sloop rig is the most common rig on modern vessels. It is characterized by a single mast, a triangular mainsail, and a headsail. This rig is named after the Bermuda Islands, where it was developed in the 17th century. 

Some of the key features of the Bermuda sloop rig:

• The mast is typically tall and raked, which allows for a large sail area and excellent stabilit y.
• The mainsail is attached to the mast and boom. It is usually combined with a single headsail at the front of the boat, making it powerful and easy to sail.
• The Sloop is usually equipped with a masthead or fractional rig and flies a Jib or Genoa as its primary headsail.

The Bermuda Sloop rig is known for its simplicity, is often used for racing and cruising, and is popular among sailors worldwide.

The cutter rig is very similar to the sloop rig. The significant difference is that it has a single mast and two headsails – a Staysail and a Yankee. The cutter rig is known for its versatility due to the multiple options in sail plans and the double headsail setup.

Some key aspects that separate the Cutter from the Sloop:

• The rig is often more robust than its Sloop sister because of the additional cutter stay and running backstays.
• The mast is located closer to the center of the boat.
• The Cutter has a staysail on the inner forestay and a Yankee sail on the outer. The sails can be used in combination with each other or independently.
• Tacking the headsail between the forestay and cutter stay is more involved than on a sloop.
• The Cutter rig has two similar variations: the Slutter rig and the Solent rig.

Like the Sloop, the Cutter rig is relatively easy to operate. Still, the additional headsail and rigging make it costlier to maintain. It is also less suitable for racing than the Sloop, but the added versatility helps in different weather conditions and makes it an excellent choice for cruisers.

The ketch rig is also similar to the Sloop but has an additional mizzen mast placed further aft of the main mast. Another mast gives it the advantage of even higher versatility in sail plans. The ketch typically uses three sails. The mizzen sail, a mainsail, and a headsail. The mizzen mast also allows it to fly a second light-wind sail. 

Here are a few more distinctions of the ketch rig:

• The ketch typically carries a smaller mainsail than a similarly sized sloop and a smaller mizzen sail.
• A small mizzen and a medium mainsail are easier to handle than one large mainsail.
• The additional mizzen sail makes the vessel easy to balance and gives extra stability downwind.
• The ketch usually doesn’t point as close to the wind as the Sloop and Cutter.

The headsail setup on a ketch is generally the same as for the Sloop. But the ketch can also be rigged as a cutter ketch, which gives it the benefits of the cutter rig! The tradeoff with a cutter-rigged ketch is the higher complexity and additional rigging, hardware, and sails required.

Final words

Well done, you now have a good grasp of the most common sails and their strengths. We have discussed a few rigs and how they utilize different kinds of sails in various sail plans. Remember that more sail types, other rigs, and even more variations are available. It is a complex topic, but this guide covers the basics and gives you a great starting point.

If you still have questions, look below at the FAQ, or leave me a comment. I’m more than happy to help you out!

A sailboat is only as good as its sails, and sails need wind to work. The next logical step is learning how the wind works when we sail and practicing some wind awareness! Head to the following guide to continue your research: Learn The Difference Between True And Apparent Wind Speed.

FAQ: The Different Types of Sails On A Sailboat

What is the foretriangle on a sailboat.

The foretriangle on a sailboat refers to the triangular area formed between the mast, forestay, and deck. If you want to order a new headsail, for example, you’ll have to measure and supply the sailmaker with these details.

What is the difference between a loose-footed and attached-footed mainsail?

A loose-footed mainsail is attached to the boom only at its corners, leaving the rest of the sail’s bottom edge free. An attached-footed mainsail, on the other hand, is secured to the boom along its entire length. The main difference lies in how the bottom of the sail connects to the boom, with the loose-footed design offering more adjustability in the sail shape.

What is a high-cut clew on a sail?

A high-cut clew refers to the design of a foresail, such as a jib or genoa, where the back lower corner (the clew) is raised or “cut” higher above the deck compared to standard designs. This design allows for better visibility beneath the sail and makes it easier to sail over waves without the sail touching the water, which is especially beneficial for offshore or blue-water cruising. Very high-cut clews are commonly seen on yankee sails on cutter-rigged sailboats.

What is luff foam on a sail?

Luff foam is a padded strip sewn into the forward edge of roller furling sails. It ensures the sail is appropriately shaped when partially rolled up, especially in strong winds. This foam not only helps with sail performance but also protects the sail when it’s furled.

What are the most common sails?

The sloop rig sailboat is the most common and usually features a mainsail, a headsail, and an additional light-wind sail, such as a spinnaker or Gennaker.

What are the different types of sails?

There are several different types of sails, and we can divide the most common into three categories:

The standard sails:

• Mizzen sail

The light-wind sails

The storm sails:

• Storm mainsail
• Storm jib 

What is a spinnaker sail?

A Spinnaker sail is a large, lightweight downwind sail used at deep angles between 120 and 180 degrees.

What is a Jib sail?

A Jib sail is a headsail that does not overlap the mainsail and is set on the forestay. The Jib can also be set up with a self-tacking system, making it very effective when sailing into the wind.

Is Genoa sail the same as a jib?

People often mix the terms Genoa and Jib. The Genoa is different from a Jib sail as it is larger and overlaps the mainsail, whereas the Jib is smaller and does not overlap the mainsail.

What is a Genoa sail?

A Genoa is a headsail larger than the Jib extending past the mast and overlapping the mainsail. The advantage over the Jib is the larger sail area, making it more effective when sailing off the wind.

How many types of sail plans are there?

Sail plans refer to the configuration and arrangement of sails on a boat or ship. While there are countless customizations and variations, the three most common sail plans are:

Sloop: Characterized by a single mast, a triangular mainsail, and a headsail.

Cutter:  Similar to a sloop but has a single mast and carries two or more headsails.

Ketch: Features two masts, with the aft mast (called the mizzen) shorter than the main mast.

What is a Mainsail?

The mainsail is a triangular sail that flies behind the mast on top of the boom.

What is a Gennaker?

A gennaker is basically an asymmetrical spinnaker. A hybrid sail that combines the characteristics of a Genoa and a Spinnaker, designed for sailing off the wind and often used in light to moderate wind conditions.

What is a Storm Jib?

A storm jib is a small, heavy-duty sail used in strong winds or stormy conditions. It is commonly used when the headsail has been furled to the point where it is no longer effective.

What factors determine the type of sail to be used?

The type of sail to be used depends on various factors such as wind conditions, points of sail, sailboat size , and sailing experience. It’s smart to choose the appropriate sail for optimal performance. A Jib, for example, will be more effective than a Genoa while sailing to windward, and vice versa.

How do sails affect the performance of a sailboat?

Sails are the engine of a sailboat. Their design, size, and trim influence the boat’s speed, direction, and stability. Properly adjusted sails capture wind efficiently, allowing the boat to move faster and in the desired direction.

The balance and condition of the sails also impact comfort and safety, with well-maintained sails ensuring optimal performance. The sails are essential in determining how a sailboat performs in various wind conditions.

Sharing is caring!

Skipper, Electrician and ROV Pilot

Robin is the founder and owner of Sailing Ellidah and has been living on his sailboat since 2019. He is currently on a journey to sail around the world and is passionate about writing his story and helpful content to inspire others who share his interest in sailing.

Your article gave me a lot of inspiration, I hope you can explain your point of view in more detail, because I have some doubts, thank you.

What specifically do you want my point of view on?

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

• New Sailboats
• Sailboats 21-30ft
• Sailboats 31-35ft
• Sailboats 36-40ft
• Sailboats Over 40ft
• Sailboats Under 21feet
• used_sailboats
• Apps and Computer Programs
• Communications
• Fishfinders
• Handheld Electronics
• Plotters MFDS Rradar
• Wind, Speed & Depth Instruments
• Anchoring Mooring
• Running Rigging
• Sails Canvas
• Standing Rigging
• Diesel Engines
• Off Grid Energy
• Cleaning Waxing
• DIY Projects
• Repair, Tools & Materials
• Spare Parts
• Tools & Gadgets
• Cabin Comfort
• Ventilation
• Footwear Apparel
• Foul Weather Gear
• Mailport & PS Advisor
• Inside Practical Sailor Blog
• Activate My Web Access
• Reset Password
• Customer Service

• Free Newsletter

Blue Jacket 40 Used Boat Review

Catalina 270 vs. The Beneteau First 265 Used Boat Match-Up

Ericson 41 Used Boat Review

Mason 33 Used Boat Review

How to Create a Bullet-Proof VHF/SSB Backup

Tips From A First “Sail” on the ICW

Tillerpilot Tips and Safety Cautions

Best Crimpers and Strippers for Fixing Marine Electrical Connectors

Polyester vs. Nylon Rode

Getting the Most Out of Older Sails

How (Not) to Tie Your Boat to a Dock

Stopping Mainsheet Twist

Fuel Lift Pump: Easy DIY Diesel Fuel System Diagnostic and Repair

Ensuring Safe Shorepower

Sinking? Check Your Stuffing Box

What Do You Do With Old Fiberglass Boats?

Boat Repairs for the Technically Illiterate

Boat Maintenance for the Technically Illiterate

Whats the Best Way to Restore Clear Plastic Windows?

Stopping Holding-tank Odors

Giving Bugs the Big Goodbye

Galley Gadgets for the Cruising Sailor

The Rain Catcher’s Guide

Sailing Gear for Kids

What’s the Best Sunscreen?

UV Clothing: Is It Worth the Hype?

Preparing Yourself for Solo Sailing

R. Tucker Thompson Tall Ship Youth Voyage

On Watch: This 60-Year-Old Hinckley Pilot 35 is Also a Working…

On Watch: America’s Cup

On Watch: All Eyes on Europe Sail Racing

Dear Readers

• Sails, Rigging & Deck Gear

Genoa Sheet-Lead Control Systems

A look at adjustable cars and tracks for easy headsail tweaking..

For decades, easily adjusting genoa-sheet leads from the cockpit was a luxury ascribed to the racing sailboat. But todays average daysailer or cruiser equipped with a roller-furling headsail also benefits from a handy, efficient, and safe means of adjusting the genoa sheets lead and optimizing sail performance.

The clew of a reefable headsail moves during the reefing process, and so should the sheet lead position. If the lead is left in the same place when the headsail is reefed, either the sails foot or leech will be over tensioned, while the other edge ends up under tensioned. Proper sail trim has as much to do with the sheet lead angle as it does with how much the sheet is trimmed or eased. By eliminating leech sag or over tension, a crew derives better sail shape and an attendant uptick in performance. The headsail also will maintain its sewn-in shape longer, and with less leech flutter and foot stretch, its lifespan also will be extended.

A lot has changed since our last in-depth look at genoa lead cars (PS, November 1996), so with a dual focus on racing and cruising boats, we rounded up genoa-sheet lead controls for sailboats in the 35- to 40-foot range. Our goal was to measure the genoa-sheet controls operational efficiency, design attributes, construction quality, and ease of installation; price and warranty were also considered. For details on the test protocol, check out the accompanying How We Tested.

What We Tested We tested 11 genoa-sheet lead cars and tracks from the industrys top manufacturers of sailboat deck hardware: Antal, Garhauer, Harken, Nautos, Ronstan, Schaefer, and Seldn.

Photos by Ralph Naranjo

From Antal, we tested the 150-size genoa lead (model 4654), which sports a 60-millimeter sheave and is recommended for sailboats up to 42 feet, along with the model 4520 anodized-aluminum track. Garhauer submitted two of its lead cars (EZ-G3 and EZ-G3B), as did Harken, which sent the G274B and G2747B for review. Seldn delivered three different lead cars (30 HL, 30 CRB/B, and 30 PERF) that all run on the companys 30-millimeter, extruded anodized-aluminum track.

The heavy-duty Nautos 91660 genoa car was the big dog of the pack, weighing nearly 2 pounds with a 120-millimeter lead and a 75-millimeter sheave that spins on roller- and ball-bearing races. We also evaluated Ronstans Series 22 lead car (RC-12231) and track, and Schaefers simple, elegant 17-68 car and 1.25-inch T-track.

One of the first trends we noted among the test products was a move toward more friction-free ball bearings and less use of high-molecular-weight plastic bushings. Both options lessen friction and improve the way a lead car slides down the track. Under no load, the ball bearing-equipped cars got the greased lightning award, but they are more expensive. And when the load is on, ball-bearing lead cars move with less friction. In all instances except with the Harken cars we tested, care must be taken to keep the ball bearings from escaping. The trick is to keep the stub track in the lead and use it to thread the car onto the track. If you slip, the car will shed plastic ball bearings like a broken bag of marbles, heading straight for deck drains and other irretrievable hiding places. Another trick, which Seldn suggested, is using gel shaving cream to hold the last few bearings in place while you attach the end fittings.

A few test units provided bungee-cord assisted retraction to hold unloaded cars in place. Others assumed that the sheets led to roller-furled headsails would keep the cars tensioned.

Antal Antals genoa-lead car (model 4654) slides on a dual-race, ball-bearing surface with one Torlon and one Delrin circuit per side. The car handles vertical, side, and torque loads evenly, and even if the bearings are destroyed, the car remains captive on the track. The reinforced resin sheaves run on an axle with twin ball-bearing races on either side of the sheave. The extruded, anodized aluminum, hollow-section track can be matched with various multi-purchase sheaves that allow for adjustable car control. The box-section track is light and stiff.

The car is a carefully designed and exactingly built piece of deck hardware. The manufacturer has gone to significant effort to galvanically isolate dissimilar metals. The dual-race bearing system supporting the lead car delivers a friction-free spin. The Antal offered the best power in/power out ratio among the lead cars we tested.

For part of our testing, we added an extra block to make the car control line deliver the same 4-to-1 mechanical advantage that most of the other test products had built in. Antal does have a double-sheave end fitting with a becket, but the test unit had only a 3-to-1 purchase. The 4-to-1 ratio was consistent with the test protocol, and the Antal 150 presented the least resistance under the highest loads.

The only downside we could find with the Antal system was the lead cars $612 price tag. Its three-year warranty tied with the Ronstan car for the shortest in the test field.

Bottom line: This car and track may be overkill for the average cruiser-racer in this size range, but boats with large furling genoas and crews spending lots of time racing or cruising offshore will appreciate the optimized adjustment capability, reliable operation, and long-term durability that Antal offers. We Recommend it.

Garhauer The Garhauer EZ-G3 and EZ-G3B both use the same smooth-running, ball-bearing blocks with large-diameter bearings, but the EZ-G3 car has very small Torlon ball bearings and runs on a low-profile T-track. The EZ-G3B rides on medium ball bearings and slides on a stiffer, heavier-duty anodized-aluminum track with a larger cross-section. The latter delivered a 50-percent increase in pull power over the former when 32 pounds of tension was placed on the control line, and its improved effect on sail trim would be noticeable underway. Both Garhauer cars offer a 4-to-1 tackle arrangement for car control, and the sheaves spin like roulette wheels with extra ball bearings.

Garhauers powerful pull goes hand-in-hand with the larger size of its blocks. Testers did note that the smaller-diameter ball bearings used in the EZ-G3, and to a lesser extent the EZ-G3B, are best kept in the lead car. When they escape, they are harder to find than the larger-diameter ball bearings used by competitors.

Priced at $363 for the total package (two EZ-G3 cars and two track lengths), or $182 per car, Garhauer once again finds a balance between performance and aggressive pricing. However, the EZ-G3B and its track are heavier than all other competitors (12 pounds per side); this may be an issue for racers prone to cutting the handles off their toothbrushes.

Bottom line: Cruisers, and racers who are less boat-weight-conscious, will find that the Garhauer systems offer a lot of value, not to mention the raw power in the EZ-G3B, which gets the Budget Buy pick. Testers were not as enthusiastic about the EZ-G3s small ball-bearing lead car alternative. Despite its being equipped with a smooth-running sheave, the block bogged down under load, and its performance fell well behind the EZ-G3B.

Harken Harkens 27-millimeter G274B and G2747B cars had cleverly engineered, lock-in-place, Torlon recirculating ball bearings. The lock-in-place bearings stole the show when it came to slipping ball-bearing lead cars on and off the track.

The G274B incorporates a pressed stainless-steel sheave cage, a nylon-resin GRP sheave, and a bushing-type bearing. The G2747B is identical to the former, except the stainless block cage has a black abrasion-resistant coating and a tang for bungee attachment. It also has a very smooth spinning, larger-diameter sheave that uses ball and roller bearings to reduce friction during trimming. Both systems toggle 60 degrees to accommodate lead-angle offsets, and both sheave cages are wide enough to handle two sheets.

Racers counting weight as well as efficiency should take a close look at the Harken blocks. After repeated testing, it was clear that the most important uptick in efficiency comes from making the track-to-car interface a smooth ride, and thats just what Harken offers in both of these lead cars, with the G2747B having a little extra slipperiness.

Bottom line: The Harken cars are light and compact, but offer lots of power and easy handling. They are the Best Choice for light-displacement boats.

Nautos Among the leads we looked at, the carefully engineered, high load-bearing Holt Nautos 91660 genoa car was in the big-dog pack, along with the Antal, Garhauer, and Schaefer. The wide sheave easily accommodates two sheets, and the sheave cage was well attached to the car via a four-point toggling hinge. There are shackles at each end of the car, but no built-in control blocks, making the car best suited for a winch-tensioned control line. It can be used with other brands of track as well.

Because our testing used a 4-to-1 tackle, we set up such a system to deliver the pull force. The Nautos car delivered results toward the lower end of our test range, but when loaded to 500 pounds, it was still an easy car to slide.

Bottom line: Testers liked the Nautos systems structure and quality of manufacture, but in this tight field of quality products, it was out-performed by other products overall.

Ronstan Ronstans Series 22 lead car (RC12231) runs on Torlon ball bearings, and like most of the other ball-bearing-equipped cars, it comes with a short section of track that keeps the slippery bearings captive. By carefully butting the short keeper track section with the end of the deck-mounted track, the car can be positioned on the boats track much like a railroad car emerging from a sidetrack. The stainless-steel sheave cage mounts to the car via two welded forks, toggling on a smaller-diameter pin. A rubber grommet keeps the clatter down as the lead car toggles.

There was a lot to like in the Ronstan genoa car, and it performed quite well in testing-holding its own with the big dogs. It slid quietly and efficiently on the small, lightweight 22-millimeter track, sounding like a gear train shifting smoothly, rather than a bag full of silverware being dragged along the deck. The grommet placed on the toggle leg tamed the slat-slat sound caused by a flailing sheave, and the lead had enough side-to-side play to cope with a wide range of car-to-clew geometry. We did have to lash on a block to arrive at 4-to-1 parity with others tested, but there is a 3-to-1 setup that would work just fine.

Bottom line: Ronstans lead car gave Harken a run for its money, but it was nosed out by the latters captured ball-bearing race and five-year warranty. Nevertheless, this is a compact and capable system that will perform well, and we can Recommend it.

Schaefer Schaefer displays both simplicity and elegance in its stainless-steel 17-68 car and wide, nicely machined anodized-aluminum sheave cage. The bushing-and-axle supported sheave offers a wide lead that will easily accommodate two sheets during sail changes.

The spring-dampened toggle is a nice touch that will diminish clatter in rolling conditions offshore. A high molecular-weight plastic track bushing is an alternative to ball and roller bearings. As might be expected in a bushing-type car, the efficiency was not up there with the plastic ball-bearing gear we tested, but it is more likely to take the ravages of time and environmental harassment in stride. And its slight increase in friction may be a fair trade for the simplicity and reliability.

Testers especially liked the Schaefer units nut-and-bolt sheave axle and the fact the user can easily remove and replace key parts, even the bushing surface. They were further impressed by the high-quality stainless-steel work and the efficient fiddle-block tensioning control system.

Bottom line: The overall quality of the Schaefer gear and its user-friendly maintenance abilities make it a good choice for those headed over the horizon. Its the Best Choice for bluewater voyagers and cruisers in far-flung locales.

Seldn The three different leads Seldn sent us to review define the companys approach to genoa-car design. The compact, high-load 30HL plastic-bushing car came with an inclined base and an up-angle lead that puts less load-handling stress on key parts of the cast, double-sheave cage and car. The casting includes built-in sideplates for control-line sheaves. Testers found that the configuration made rigging control lines a bit of a nuisance, but because this is only done to set the system up, we did not consider it a major issue. The price, reasonable efficiency, and compact design all made this car a solid competitor.

The 30CR B/B is a Torlon ball-bearing car with the same sheave and cage as the 30HL. Testers liked that its built-in blocks delivered a 4-to-1 pull. The bushing-supported sheave and ball-bearing car were the right combination, delivering a smooth-riding, compact lead. A rubber mini-fender stopped the clatter linked to a flailing sheet, and the load on the control line increased evenly all the way through the range.

Seldns performance car, the 30 Perf, is nicely designed and engineered. It incorporates a longer ball-bearing car and a stainless-steel sheave cage and toggle that also compensated for lead-angle changes 90 degrees off the toggle axis. Opposite the car control block was a becket to attach a bungee cord or a second lead on the same track. It was the only lead we tested that offered a two-plane toggling ability to better align the sheave. The long ball-bearing car had to have a second block added to achieve a 4-to-1 ratio, but it did not run as smoothly on the track as the 30CR B/B.

Bottom line: There were features found in each of these blocks that testers looked on favorably. The 30CR B/B incorporated a ball-bearing track-to-car interface, slid smoothly, and earned high marks for design attributes. Despite its $439 price tag, the 30CR B/B is a PS Recommended piece of hardware.

Conclusion Both racers and cruisers benefit from underway sheet-lead adjustability, and our test results showed that no one product answers all needs. For the more competitive boat owners aboard lighter-displacement boats, the Harken and Ronstan systems were neck-and-neck. Testers liked the smooth slide of each of these cars. Ronstan uses a thick rubber grommet to tame the slat-slat clatter of a flailing sheet, but Harken leaves users with the sound of speed. In the end, it was Harkens trapped ball-bearings, full complement of track ends, and other features that sealed the deal. The Harken G274B and G2747B get the Best Choice for lightweight performance boats, and Ronstan earns our Recommendation.

Those with higher-displacement boats should consider the Antal and Schaefer. The former delivers the apex of efficiency, and the latter is well-made gear thats easy to inspect and can be repaired with a minimum of specialized parts. For those headed offshore, the Schaefer is the Best Choice. Seldns 30CR B/B was a solid performer and for those not tethered to a tight budget, it too is Recommended.

Garhauers EZ-G3Bs ring pins are snag prone and its toggling range is limited, but it is a lot of hardware, performed well, and boasts a lot of efficiency for $182 per car. It gets the Budget Buy pick.

Whichever unit you select, check out the options list for things that will make installation easier. For example, buy extra ball bearings if your system uses them and make sure that secure end stops prevent an inadvertent fly-off-the-track disaster.

• Antal Euro Marine Trading

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

Working with High-Tech Ropes

Leave a reply cancel reply.

Log in to leave a comment

Latest Videos

Cabo Rico 34 Boat Review

Super Shallow Draft Sailboat: The Leeboard Sharpie

Hans Christian 41T – Boat Review

Seven dead after superyacht sinks off Sicily. Was the crew at...

Latest sailboat review.

• Privacy Policy
• Do Not Sell My Personal Information
• Online Account Activation
• Privacy Manager

How Much Does A New Genoa Cost?

• October 6, 2022

When the time comes for a fresh sail for your boat, you need to know how much you’ll pay. It can be tough to predict how much a new genoa sail is, especially given the various features and customization options available to you on the modern market.

Factors That Affect New Genoa Cost

Genoa sails are large jibs or staysails that usually extend beyond a boat’s mast. In some cases, they will overlap a mainsail if viewed from the side. Regardless, genoa sails have large surface areas, so they can majorly increase the speed of watercraft, particularly in light to moderate winds.

Given their importance, it’s no surprise that new genoas can vary heavily in cost. For example, a new genoa sail for a boat measuring 42 feet to 50 feet may cost between $5000 and $9000.

Let’s get more specific since certain attributes may affect the cost of a new genoa sail.

Sailboat Size

As touched on earlier, your sailboat’s size will impact the cost of a new genoa sail. That’s because larger boats need larger genoa sails if they are to sail properly and benefit from the genoa rig. If you have a smaller-than-average sailboat, you can expect your genoa sail to cost less than a comparatively large one.

Material Used

But the materials used may also impact genoa sail prices. For example, the popular sail manufacturer North Sails produces new genoas in three different materials:

• Dacron , which is a cost-effective yet not very durable material. Dacron genoa sails could be beneficial if you want to save money or if you don’t plan to use your genoa very often. If you expose it to too much wear and tear, you’ll find that it becomes baggy and performs less effectively over time
• North Panel Laminate , which is a specialized laminate sail material intended for increased durability and longevity. Laminate materials may be bolstered by compounds such as carbon. Regardless, these are great choices if you have a little extra money to spend and want your genoa sail to last for as long as possible
• 3Di , a special North Sails material that’s made of woven filaments. Each genoa sail is produced over a 3-D mold to ensure maximum durability and performance over the years. This is the most expensive choice, but it may be worthwhile in the long run

Type of Sail

Your new genoa sail’s price can further be affected by its type. North Sails and similar manufacturers offer many different cruising headsails. For example, you can choose a furling roller genoa, which furls up for easy storage, protection from the elements, and increased longevity if you don’t need the sail deployed at any one time.

Inclusions or Optional Features

More than many other factors, the inclusions or optional features you choose with your genoa sail will impact the final asking price you can expect.

• Depending on the manufacturer, you may be able to select add-ons like:
• A stainless steel clew ring
• A heavyweight luff tape so you can easily furl the sail when needed
• A drawstring sail bag for waterproof storage
• A foot cover and UV leech
• Extended tack and head patches
• A radar patch for easier detection
• Webbing on the head and tack

None of these features are necessary for smooth genoa sail operation, but they can make your experience better or act as convenient additions to your sailing equipment. Consider whether you’ll use these optional inclusions and features carefully before adding them to your order, as they can significantly impact the total price.

Average Genoa Sail Price

Generally, you can expect to pay between $3000 and $12,000 for a quality genoa sail, depending on your boat’s size and the factors mentioned above.

Where to Buy a New Genoa?

Luckily, you can buy a new genoa on SailTrader right now. North Sails’ new cruising headsail is available as a genoa, and it’s available in the materials and types mentioned above. This makes it quick and easy for you to get a quote for a new genoa sail for your watercraft whenever you need it. 

Even better, you can use SailTrader’s marketplace to find many more sails, such as mainsails, for your boat. Why wait? Check out SailTrader today!

The Sailor’s Marketplace for Sailboats and Sails.

Sell Your Sailboat

Sailboats for sale.

• New Sailboats
• Used Sailboats
• Cruising Sailboats
• Racing Sailboats

Sell Your Sails

Sails for sail, sail manufacturers.

• North Sails
• Quantum Sails
• Doyle Sails
• UK Sailmakers

Sailing Reviews

• Sailing Line
• Safety Equipment
• Sailing Accesories

As an Amazon Associate SailTrader earns from qualifying purchases.

This website uses cookies to ensure you get the best experience possible. 

SailingEurope Blog - Sailing, Yacht Charter and Beyond

Was the Genoa Sail Invented in Genova?

The question from the title sounds ridiculous, but there is a reason for it. Different languages have different names for the staysail , the triangular sail attached to the forestay , with the tack in the bow and trimmed with sheets, one at each side. The English language is usually the official language in terms of what’s what on a sailing yacht but that does not always apply. Again, in different countries different dialects are used for the naval terminology so some terms originate from coastal dialects of the country.

Basically, the jib is basically a triangle-shaped sail placed ahead of the foremast and does not reach aft of the mast. The genoa (or genova ) is pretty much the same, but with a slight difference in reach . It is a large foresail that reaches aft past the mast and extends beyond the luff of the mainsail. Mediterranean sailors would use the word genoa for the foresail regardless of its reach. More knowledgeable ones would make a difference with adding some percentage. For example, a 120% genoa would actually be a foresail that reaches around 20% of its foot length beyond the luff of the mainsail . A 100% genoa would then be a foresail that reaches exactly to the luff of the mainsail. It might seem difficult in theory, but it is simple to understand in reality.

If you charter a sailing yacht or sail with an international crew, then take five minutes for a short briefing about the names for the crucial parts of the yacht and make the consensus about terminology. At the end of the day, genoa and genova are the same words just as Genoa and Genova are the names for the same city in Italy. My next quest would be to find a link between the name of the city and the slang name for the sail.

I wish you a calm sea, a fine wind and a strong mast!

Leave a Comment Cancel Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed .

Dufour 48 sailboat

An innovative luxury yacht of almost 15 metres.

The Dufour 48 yacht offers an unparalleled experience and promotes living in the great outdoors, a return to the ocean. This luxury 15- meter sailing yacht reveals an aft cockpit that guarantees instinctive, safe and convivial sailing. A new feature is a second cockpit with sunbathing areas forward on the yacht, offering unrivalled comfort both under way and at anchor.

With the Dufour 48, the shipyard is continuing to innovate, again and again. The DNA of the Dufour brand has been preserved to offer owners the performance and comfort they deserve. The teams’ extensive know-how and experience promise a robust, efficient yacht for all types of boating.

A LUXURY YACHT DESIGNED FOR OUTDOOR LIVING

The Dufour 48 luxury yacht has been designed for enjoying the fresh air on the ocean. Life on board is comfortable at all times, both below deck and outside.

The aft cockpit has been redesigned to offer significant space. When under way, moving around on board is simple and natural. Two tables provide a splendid spot for enjoying meals or simply relaxing at anchor.

What would a Dufour be without its aft platform? Once again equipped with a plancha grill, it comes with a host of new features. It’s a genuine outdoor galley, equipped with all the essentials.

To complete the layout, the Dufour 48 has a second cockpit, this time, forward. Here, a sun lounger can be installed for unforgettable moments of relaxation at anchor or under way.

EVER MORE MODERN LINES

The design of the Dufour 48 sailboat has been redrawn by naval architect Umberto Felci of Felci Yachts Design. The lines are fluid and the boat offers a great amount of volume. The usual coachroof glazing has been redesigned as longitudinal windows with integrated opening hatches.

EXCEPTIONAL LIGHT

Already a focal point aboard previous models of the Dufour 48, light is once again a major feature. The coachroof’s full-length windows provide constant light, which is diffused throughout the interior saloon and galley.

When the mattresses from the sun loungers are removed from the forward cockpit, large windows are revealed, letting in even more light to the yacht’s interior.

OPTIMISED INTERIORS

Depending on which version of the Dufour 48 sailboat you choose, all the furniture has been optimised to ensure unrivalled comfort. If you choose the forward or lateral galley, there is always plenty of storage space provided.

Dedicated interior saloon tables have been created by interior designer Ardizio Design. These are optimised for the three- and four-cabin versions.

In the cabins, blackout blinds are integrated directly into the ceiling. So, despite the brightness of the boat, you won’t be disturbed by the very first rays of daybreak.

Technical specs

Construction

• Architect: Felci Yacht Design
• Interior Designer: Ardizio Design
• Deck construction: Injection

Technical specifications

• Overall length 50.2 ft - 15.29 m
• Waterline length 43.10 ft - 12.23 m
• Hull length 46.12 ft - 14.32 m
• Max beam 15.11 ft - 4.85 m
• Light displacement 28 652 lbs - 13 000 kg
• Draft 5.9 ft - 1.75 m / 7.99 ft - 2.35 m
• Keel weight 8 375 lbs - 3800 kg
• Fuel tank capacity 66 gal - 250 L
• Water tank capacity 140 gal - 530 L
• Engine power 60 cv / 60 hp
• Sail area /

In the Press

The dufour 41, a sailboat already acclaimed with 4 international nominations, cruising world – #dufour470 #dufour61 – march 2022 (english), voile magazine – #dufour470 – march 2022 (french), voile magazine – #dufour32 – january 2022 (french), are you interested in the dufour 48 sailboat.

• Request a brochure
• More information
• Find a dealer
• Book a trial
• Receive an offer
• Request a  brochure
• More info rmation
• Find a  dealer
• Book a  seatrial
• Receive an  offer

Stay up to date with notifications from The Independent

Notifications can be managed in browser preferences.

UK Edition Change

• UK Politics
• News Videos
• Paris 2024 Olympics
• Rugby Union
• Sport Videos
• John Rentoul
• Mary Dejevsky
• Andrew Grice
• Sean O’Grady
• Photography
• Theatre & Dance
• Culture Videos
• Fitness & Wellbeing
• Food & Drink
• Health & Families
• Royal Family
• Electric Vehicles
• Car Insurance Deals
• Lifestyle Videos
• Hotel Reviews
• News & Advice
• Simon Calder
• Australia & New Zealand
• South America
• C. America & Caribbean
• Middle East
• Politics Explained
• News Analysis
• Today’s Edition
• Home & Garden
• Broadband deals
• Fashion & Beauty
• Travel & Outdoors
• Sports & Fitness
• Climate 100
• Sustainable Living
• Climate Videos
• Solar Panels
• Behind The Headlines
• On The Ground
• Decomplicated
• You Ask The Questions
• Binge Watch
• Travel Smart
• Watch on your TV
• Crosswords & Puzzles
• Most Commented
• Newsletters
• Ask Me Anything
• Virtual Events
• Wine Offers
• Betting Sites

Thank you for registering

Please refresh the page or navigate to another page on the site to be automatically logged in Please refresh your browser to be logged in

Specialist naval divers called in to search for clues to why Mike Lynch superyacht sank

Investigating magistrate calls in italian navy equivalent of british special boat service to trawl sunken bayesian, article bookmarked.

Find your bookmarks in your Independent Premium section, under my profile

For free real time breaking news alerts sent straight to your inbox sign up to our breaking news emails

Sign up to our free breaking news emails, thanks for signing up to the breaking news email.

Italian navy specialist divers are combing the superyacht on which tycoon Mike Lynch and six others died to try to find out why it sank last month off Sicily.

An investigating magistrate has reportedly asked the Italian navy’s secretive Comsubin unit to search for clues as to what happened , so he can check them against statements given by the crew.

Sicilian magistrates are investigating the yacht’s captain, a British yacht engineer and another British crew member over their role in the sinking of the Bayesian in a storm off Sicily last month.

Fifteen people, including Mr Lynch’s wife, survived the sinking, and other vessels nearby stayed afloat.

Mr Lynch died alongside  his 18-year-old daughter, Hannah, the boat’s chef and four others who were on board the British-flagged yacht, celebrating his acquittal after a decade-long legal battle.

About six divers from the Comsubin unit are combing the 180ft superyacht for electronic equipment, including data storage and CCTV footage, according to The Times .

They are also checking whether doors or hatches were left open, a source close to the investigation told the paper.

Sources close to New Zealander James Cutfield, 51, the captain, told the Italian newspaper  Corriere Della Sera  that is living through the darkest days of his life.

A large-scale search operation by Italy’s fire service was carried out over for five days as they retrieved the seven bodies.

Divers faced debris and furniture that blocked the narrow passageways of the sunken yacht.

But the sinking has puzzled maritime experts , who said a vessel such as the Bayesian, built by high-end yacht manufacturer Perini, should have withstood the storm.

The naval diving specialists from Comsubin, which is the Italian navy equivalent of the British Special Boat Service, have now begun work, supported by a navy minesweeper with a decompression chamber to help in deep-dive operations.

The authorities say the vessel’s owner, Revton, which is controlled by Lynch’s widow Angela Bacares, will fund the operation to raise the yacht.

Revton has employed a Genoa-based diving company, Drafinsub, to use sonar and a submersible robot to study the state of the Bayesian to plan how to raise it.

“With the robot we will video the hull to see how the yacht and its mast are positioned on the sea floor, while the sonar we have on a vessel can map the sea floor and check the position of the anchor and chain,” a Drafinsub official told The Times .

Around 18,000 litres of fuel must be syphoned out of the yacht’s tanks to avoid any spillage and make the vessel lighter to lift.

Then buoyancy balloons may be used or ties could be attached to the yacht to hoist it to the surface.

Join our commenting forum

Join thought-provoking conversations, follow other Independent readers and see their replies

Subscribe to Independent Premium to bookmark this article

Want to bookmark your favourite articles and stories to read or reference later? Start your Independent Premium subscription today.

New to The Independent?

Or if you would prefer:

Hi {{indy.fullName}}

• My Independent Premium
• Account details
• Help centre