catamaran sail drive

Driving and Docking a Catamaran: Guide for Boaters

Catamarans have grown in popularity among boaters, both for recreational sailing and long-distance cruising. With their dual-hull design, they offer stability, speed, and ample space. However, driving and docking a catamaran is a unique experience compared to single-hull boats. This guide will take you through the essentials of operating and maneuvering a catamaran, covering its driving characteristics, docking tips, common challenges, and an overview of pricing and specifications for some popular models.

What Is a Catamaran?

A catamaran is a boat with two parallel hulls connected by a deck or bridge. This design provides more stability and reduces drag in the water, making catamarans faster and more efficient than monohull boats. Catamarans are known for their spacious interiors, increased living space on the deck, and shallow draft, making them perfect for coastal cruising and anchoring near shores.

There are two primary types of catamarans: sail-powered and power catamarans. Each has unique driving and docking considerations, which we’ll explore below.

Driving a Catamaran

Understanding the dual hulls.

Driving a catamaran differs from operating a monohull because of the boat’s width and the twin hulls. Here’s how the catamaran design affects driving:

• Stability : The wide stance of the hulls makes catamarans more stable, reducing rolling in rough seas. However, it also means they handle differently when turning and responding to wind or current.
• Manoeuvrability : Catamarans are agile, especially power catamarans, due to the ability to control each hull’s engine independently. This gives them better control, especially when docking or navigating tight spaces.
• Wind Influence : Catamarans are more susceptible to wind because of their large profile and lightweight design. Sail-powered catamarans especially benefit from their ability to harness wind, but this can make them tricky to drive in strong winds when compared to monohulls.

Key Differences in Driving a Catamaran

• Speed and Efficiency : Catamarans glide across the water with minimal drag, making them more efficient and often faster than their monohull counterparts. When driving, you’ll find that maintaining speed requires less fuel or wind power.
• Turning Radius : Catamarans tend to have a wider turning radius, requiring more space to make turns. However, with dual engines (on power catamarans), you can pivot the boat using differential thrust, making it possible to spin in place.
• Handling Waves : Unlike monohulls that cut through waves, catamarans ride over them. This makes for a smoother experience but also means that waves can impact both hulls differently, requiring you to adjust your steering.

Docking a Catamaran

Docking a catamaran requires a combination of skills and careful attention to the conditions. The wider beam, lighter weight, and susceptibility to wind present unique challenges. However, with some practice, catamarans can be docked smoothly and efficiently.

1. Approach at an Angle

When docking a catamaran, the first rule is to approach at an angle. This gives you more control and allows you to adjust for wind and current. A slow, controlled approach will help you compensate for any unexpected movements.

2. Use Differential Thrust

If your catamaran is equipped with twin engines, you can use differential thrust to your advantage. This involves using more throttle on one engine and less on the other to make precise movements, including rotating the boat to line it up with the dock.

3. Mind the Wind

Wind can have a significant impact when docking a catamaran, especially if the boat is light. Always dock into the wind if possible, as this gives you better control. If the wind is pushing you toward the dock, approach more slowly to avoid collisions.

4. Use Fenders and Lines

The width of a catamaran makes fender placement especially important. Place fenders along both sides of the boat to avoid damaging the hulls. Additionally, set up docking lines in advance, as this will help you secure the boat once it’s close to the dock.

5. Shallow Draft Considerations

One advantage of catamarans is their shallow draft, which allows you to dock closer to shore in many situations. However, be mindful of the depth and obstacles near the dock to prevent damage to the rudders or keels.

Common Challenges When Docking a Catamaran

• Wide Beam : The wide stance of a catamaran can make finding appropriate dock space more difficult, especially in crowded marinas.
• Windage : Catamarans are more susceptible to wind, especially when docked in open areas. Wind can easily push the boat off course, making docking more challenging.
• Limited Docking Space : Some docks aren’t designed to accommodate the wider beam of a catamaran, which may require special arrangements or berthing in less accessible areas.

Price and Specifications of Popular Catamarans

To help you understand the range of options available, here’s a look at a few popular catamaran models, including their specifications and price ranges.

1. Lagoon 42 (Sailing Catamaran)

• Length : 42 feet
• Beam : 25 feet
• Draft : 4.1 feet
• Engine : 2 x 57 HP
• Top Speed : 9-10 knots under sail
• Price : $600,000 – $750,000 (new)
• Features : The Lagoon 42 is a favorite among cruising enthusiasts, offering ample living space, a large cockpit, and easy handling. It’s ideal for long-term cruising and comes equipped with various modern amenities like solar panels and watermakers.

2. Fountaine Pajot MY 44 (Power Catamaran)

• Length : 44 feet
• Beam : 21.7 feet
• Draft : 3.8 feet
• Engine : 2 x 350 HP Volvo Penta
• Top Speed : 25 knots
• Price : $1.2 million – $1.5 million (new)
• Features : This luxury power catamaran offers high-performance engines, exceptional maneuverability, and a spacious, modern interior. With its twin-engine setup, docking is a breeze, and it’s perfect for long-distance cruising.

3. Leopard 45 (Sailing Catamaran)

• Length : 45 feet
• Beam : 24 feet
• Draft : 4.10 feet
• Engine : 2 x 45 HP
• Top Speed : 9-11 knots under sail
• Price : $700,000 – $850,000 (new)
• Features : Known for its robust build and reliability, the Leopard 45 is a versatile sailing catamaran that offers a well-appointed layout, plenty of deck space, and easy access to the helm for simplified docking.

4. Sunreef 50 (Luxury Catamaran)

• Length : 50 feet
• Beam : 30.8 feet
• Draft : 5.7 feet
• Engine : 2 x 80 HP
• Top Speed : 12 knots under sail
• Price : $1.7 million – $2.5 million (new)
• Features : Sunreef catamarans are synonymous with luxury. The Sunreef 50 is a perfect example, featuring expansive living quarters, a luxurious master suite, and customizable layouts. It’s ideal for those looking to cruise in style.

Driving and docking a catamaran is an exciting and rewarding experience, but it comes with unique challenges. Whether you’re handling a sailing catamaran or a power catamaran, understanding how to control the vessel’s dual engines, accounting for wind, and mastering differential thrust are key to a smooth ride and docking. With time and practice, you’ll find that catamarans offer unparalleled comfort, performance, and stability on the water.

If you’re considering purchasing a catamaran, it’s essential to consider your boating style, desired features, and budget. From the agile Lagoon 42 to the luxurious Sunreef 50, there’s a wide range of catamarans available, each designed to provide a unique experience on the water.

Whether you’re a seasoned sailor or new to boating, mastering the art of driving and docking a catamaran will open up a world of adventure on the open sea. Happy sailing!

Happy Boating!

Share   Driving and Docking a Catamaran: Guide for Boaters with your friends and leave a comment below with your thoughts.

Read How to Choose a Life Raft for Your Boat: The Complete Guide until we meet in the next article. 

Similar Posts

How to Choose the Right Dock Lines for Your Boat?

Dock lines are one of the most essential pieces of equipment for any boat owner. These lines are what keep your boat securely fastened to a dock or mooring, protecting it from drifting away, getting damaged by collisions, or even capsizing in rough conditions. Choosing the right dock lines for your boat is crucial for…

Exploring the Allure of Boathouses: A Dwelling by the Water

Boathouses – those charming structures perched on the edge of lakes, rivers, or coasts – hold a certain mystique. They conjure images of idyllic waterfront living, a place to store cherished vessels and a gateway to aquatic adventures. This blog article delves into the history, different types, and modern uses of boathouses, exploring their enduring…

Buying Used Lund Boats: Prices, Specs and Key Considerations

Lund Boats, renowned for their high-quality craftsmanship, durability, and versatility, have long been a favorite among fishing enthusiasts and recreational boaters. Whether you’re an angler looking for a reliable fishing vessel or a family in search of a multipurpose boat, a used Lund boat can be an excellent choice. In this guide, we’ll dive deep…

Benefits of Using a Bimini Top for Sun Protection on a Boat

Ah, the allure of the open waters, where the sun’s radiant embrace transforms each wave into a glistening dance. The joy of boating is a melody that resonates with adventure and serenity, a symphony composed by the soothing lull of the waves. Yet, amidst this aquatic reverie, a crucial note of caution beckons – the…

Lake Mead Boats for Sale: Setting Sail on Serenity

Lake Mead, a vast reservoir nestled between Nevada and Arizona, beckons boaters with its turquoise waters, stunning canyons, and endless opportunities for recreation. Whether you’re a seasoned captain or a first-time adventurer, finding the perfect boat to explore this aquatic wonderland is crucial. This comprehensive guide will equip you with the knowledge to navigate the…

Harnessing the Wind: Exploring Wind Turbines for Boats

For centuries, sailors have relied on the power of the wind to navigate the seas. Today, technology offers a modern twist on this tradition: wind turbines specifically designed for boats. These compact, self-contained units allow boaters to harness the wind’s energy to generate electricity, reducing reliance on fuel and generators, and contributing to a more…

(215) 508-2704

• Tao Catamarans
• Dolphin Catamarans
• Voyage Catamarans
• Omaya Yachts
• All Pre-Owned Catamarans
• Exclusive TMC Catamarans
• Sold Catamarans
• Buying A Multihull
• Selling A Multihull
• Sailing Schools
• Yacht Charters
• TMC Newsletter
• Employment Opportunities
• Mission Statement
• Affiliations

SAILDRIVES OR STRAIGHT SHAFTS? WHICH IS BEST FOR ME?

Story by Phillip Berman / June 20, 2017

Many buyers who contact us these days develop some very strong personal preferences about a range of things: dagger boards versus keels, Yanmar versus Volvo, Flybridge versus Bulkhead Helms, etc. etc. Many buyers send us long “Must Have” lists.

One of the “Must Have’s” we are getting from some buyers these days is: “straight shaft engines.” Either there is a builder or two out there touting them because that is what they happen to offer, or some forum or blog or owner group stating their superiority, but we see a bit of an uptick in people who think straight shafts are the only way to go. What is clear to me is that most of these catamaran purchasers do not fully understand the advantages and disadvantages of straight shafts over sail drives or recognize how many limitations and negatives they pose for catamarans under 50 feet in length. Let me clear a few things up.

Straight Shaft Advantages

• Nobody currently makes sail drives for engines much larger than 75 horse power. As such, on most production cruising cats over 50 feet you will only be able to get straight shafts.
• Straight shafts are relatively mechanically simple. You have a shaft coming directly off the back of the engine that runs through a seal and then to a cutlass bearing and out into the water.
• Straight shafts are generally cheaper and easier to repair than sail drives.
• Straight shafts force the designer and builder to place the engines further forward in the boat and anytime you move weight toward the center you reduce pitching momentum. Many racing multihulls carry their engines in the very center of their hulls for this reason

Straight Shaft Disadvantages

• Straight shafts require precision engine alignment and tend to put much more pressure on engine mounts. Engines often need to be realigned.
• Straight shafts are always louder and produce more vibration than sail drives. In larger cats with long sterns and space the engines and shafts can remain aft of the sleeping quarters in separate sound insulated compartments. On smaller cats this is generally not the case.
• Straight shafts produce less effective horsepower at the prop because the prop is at an angle. On a typical 40 foot horse power engine you lose 3 to 4 horse power over a cat with sail drives.
• The less the prop is angled down the better the performance on a straight shaft. That usually means positioning the engines quite forward of the sterns. This in-turn produces the enormous negatives of having to house the engines under the aft bunks, or a portion of them, in most cats under 50 feet in length. This amounts to: louder inside the living spaces, more vibration, more heat, and a potential for engine exhaust to encroach on the yachts interior. It also makes it a bit more difficult to properly ventilate the engine rooms.
• Sleeping close to, or over the top of a running engine, especially a straight shaft, can be noisy and hot. Most shaft seals are supposedly “dripless,” but anyone who has spent time around them knows that when the dripless seal starts to drip you had better take care of it fast. I have seen plenty of flooded engine rooms in my years on straight shaft cats. Both seals and cutlass bearings are therefore best replaced every two to three years. Straight shafts, in short, are not maintenance free.

Sail Drive Advantages

• Sail drives are very quiet.
• Exact engine alignment is not critical.
• Sail drives can be positioned further aft in cats with ease and therefore make it possible to keep the engines out of the aft staterooms and in their own watertight engine rooms. On cats under 50 feet the design trend today is to produce sharper bows and wider, flared sterns aft, both to manage the engine weight aft and to get the cat to sit back on her haunches and pierce through waves to dampen pitching moment. A good example of this is the evolution of the Leopard 47 (a straight shaft boat) to the far superior sailing Morelli and Melvin designed Leopard 46 (a sail drive boat.)
• Sail drives offer more horsepower at the prop.

Sail Drive Negatives

• Sail drives generally cost more to replace than shafts. The typical drive leg for a 40 to 50 foot cat is between $3,500 and $5,000 dollars.
• Sail drives legs must always have good zinc protection or there is a danger of the shaft corroding. Sloppy zinc inspections can lead to the destruction of sail drive legs. I’ve seen plenty of this at surveys from sloppy owner care.
• Sail drives carry seals that are meant to prevent salt water incursion into the lubricated shaft leg. If the seals are compromised salt water can enter the drive leg and lead to internal corrosion. Note: water incursion in a drive leg is easily seen if one inspects the sail drive fluid level and finds milky looking oil. Most prudent sailors replace their sail drive seals at least every other haul out. If they see milky fluid they change the fluid right away and then replace the seals at the next haul out. (The newer drives allow you to change the oil from inside the engine room easily, without having to haul the boat.). When a sailor finds milky fluid on the older sail drive legs it is good to run the engines and transmissions frequently. This will keep the sail drive oil emulsified until the next haul when the seals can be replaced.
• Some older sail drives had cone clutch or shifting problems. These were sometimes found on Yanmar SD 50 drive legs. That problem has been overcome with the new generation drives.

I have heard some internet chatter that straight shafts are better if you run aground, but I strongly disagree. If you run aground hard with shafts or sail drives and for any reason they are not protected by a keel, or mini keels, or a skeg, you are going to have a bit of a mess on your hands either way. One of the reasons I much prefer engines in their own watertight engine rooms is that if one does run aground and water enters the engine room from a broken shaft or sail drive leg, the water remains in the engine room, never enters the living quarters where water damage leads to major floor and woodwork repair in general.

• Sleeping close to, or over the top of a running engine, especially a straight shaft, can be noisy and hot. Most shaft seals are supposedly "dripless," but anyone who has spent time around them knows that when the dripless seal starts to drip you had better take care of it fast. I have seen plenty of flooded engine rooms in my years on straight shaft cats. Both seals and cutlass bearings are therefore best replaced every two to three years. Straight shafts, in short, are not maintenance free.

About Phillip Berman

• Are you a Spreadsheet Guy?
• Balance Catamarans is Born: A Bold Move in a Challenging Market
• Can a catamaran really sail upwind?
• Catamaran Depreciation
• Catamaran Vs Monohull
• Daggerboards vs. Keels
• Lessons Learned From A Free Spirit
• Placing a Boat Into Bare Boat Charter
• Post Survey Negotiations
• Saildrives or Straight Shafts? Which is Best For Me?
• Seller's Guide To Yacht Sales
• The 14 Biggest Mistakes When Purchasing a Used Catamaran and How to Avoid Them
• The 14 Biggest Mistakes When Purchasing a Used Cat…and How to Avoid Them Part Two
• The Perils of Internet Catamaran Shopping
• The Ten Commandments of Buying a Catamaran

Recent Posts

Join us at the 2024 annapolis sailboat show aboard the current marine 46.

• The Multihull Company Opens A New Office On Florida's Gulf Coast

Sailing the Tao 452

The multihull company announced as distributor for omaya yachts, the multihull company announces the sale of the first pre-owned balance 482.

• Introducing the Tao 452: On Display At The Annapolis Boat Show October 12 - 15, 2023

Join Us At The Annapolis Boat Show Aboard the Voyage 590

The multihull company announced as dealer for the voyage 590, 6 great starter catamarans.

• Ian Edmonson Joins TMC As Yacht Broker in Fort Pierce, FL.

Categories: Articles , Articles by Phil Berman , Catamaran Handling , Design and Construction , Engines and Mechanics

Recent News

The multihull company opens a new office on florida’s gulf coast.

The Multihull Company is pleased to announce that Josie Tucci has joined its team of expert yacht brokers in the Gulf Coast. Josie brings over 25 years of experience in the marine industry, with a strong focus on catamarans.Josie's career began in France with Dufour Yachts, where she honed her sales and marketing skills. She then transitioned to the US,...

Join Multihull Company Broker Captain Conor Dugan as he takes the helm aboard ‘Moxie’ in the azure waters of the Bahamas, to see how the Tao 452 performs under sail with a full cruising payload. https://youtu.be/V2scHvqn5vI?si=kuLwjFCYQdFj0_KW

The Multihull Company is thrilled to announce its appointment as the exclusive distributor for Omaya Yachts, an exciting new brand of Power Catamarans built with precision at the esteemed Elica Yard in Silastra, Bulgaria. This exciting new partnership further solidifies The Multihull Company's position as a premier distributor in the maritime industry, offering clients unparalleled access to cutting-edge vessels designed...

In early 2023, Cruising World approached us to seek our opinion on recommending a couple of brokerage catamaran options for first time catamaran buyers to consider when they first stepping into the catamaran market. Here are six boats hand-picked by The Multihull Company’s president and CEO, Capt. Will Miller, as excellent choices for brokerage-catamaran seekers. These are all worth a...

The Multihull Company Named Exclusive Dealer for Dolphin Catamarans and their New Model, the Dolphin 380

The Multihull Company, the world’s leader in multihull sales and service is excited to announce that it has been named the exclusive dealer for Dolphin Catamarans, a premier builder of high-quality catamarans, and their newest model, the Dolphin 380, designed by Philippe Pouvreau. "We are thrilled to be working with Dolphin Catamarans again and to be able to offer their...

The Multihull Company is thrilled to participate in the 2024 Annapolis Sailboat Show, held from October 10 – 14, 2024 in downtown Annapolis, Maryland. The Annapolis Boat Show is a highly anticipated annual event that brings together boating enthusiasts, industry professionals, and maritime aficionados from around the world. Visitors to the Annapolis Sailboat Show can look forward to an exclusive...

The Multihull Company is pleased to announce the closing on the Balance 482 "SeaLife" We wanted to take a moment and thank her new owners on their amazing new catamaran, and to also congratulate our team handling the sale. TMC agent Andrew Hodgdon successfully represented the buyers on the sale of the vessel, while TMC CEO Will Miller represented the...

Introducing the Tao 452: On Display At The Annapolis Boat Show October 12 – 15, 2023

The Multihull Company is thrilled to unveil the new Tao 452, an exciting addition to the world of blue-water performance cruising catamarans. Meticulously engineered and crafted to perfection, the Tao 452 is set to redefine the catamaran experience for sailors worldwide. If you've ever felt the need for more sailing performance from your current production charter catamaran or been disappointed...

The Multihull Company is excited to announce its participation in this year's Annapolis Sailboat Show. The event will be held from October 12 - 15, 2023 in downtown Annapolis, and The Multihull Company will be showcasing the exquisite Voyage 590 catamaran from Voyage Yachts. The Annapolis Boat Show is a highly anticipated annual event that brings together boating enthusiasts, industry...

The Multihull Company is pleased to announce their appointment as a dealer for Voyage Yachts and their new model – the Voyage 590!  The Voyage 590 is being celebrated as the ultimate, luxury sailing catamaran with all the comforts of home surrounded by panoramic views of paradise. She maximizes luxury accommodation and comfort, with the performance and blue-water capability characteristic...

• Read All Articles

We take pride in our happy customers

Andrew, and Andrew are both fantastic. Transaction was smooth and professional highly recommend the team over at Multihull.

— Paul Fosler

I just purchased my first large boat (my dreamboat) and Michael Streng and the rest of TMC was amazing! I really felt like I was a VIP customer because they were fast and easy to communicate with and worked ahead of me. It really was a treat and I would use them again any day!

— Collin Simmons

Andrew Hodgdon and The Multihull Company have done an extraordinary job facilitating the sale of our catamaran. There were a couple of challenges (geography and timing) that made this sale a little tricky, but, as usual, Andrew was amazing. I’ve been buying and selling cruising boats for over 12 years and Andrew is, without a doubt, the best broker I’ve worked with.

— Mort Orlov

Andrew Hodgdon at TMC-St. Augustine kept us thoroughly informed during the sale of our boat and took the extra steps necessary to complete the deal. His knowledge of the process made a complex deal very easy. Needless to say, we are extremely happy and satisfied with the job that Andrew did.

— David Baxter

A shout out to Andrew Holland at the TMC main office, who handled the closing transaction of the sale of our boat. Very professional and thorough. Thank you!!

Trust & Expertise About Us

Successful relationships cannot exist without it. At The Multihull Company we base every relationship on a firm commitment to earning and retaining our client’s trust.

Advice of any kind is valuable only when grounded in hard-won expertise. It too, must be trustworthy. Trust and expertise define the heart and soul of The Multihull Company. We are a team of skilled professionals who thrive on providing expert, trustworthy advice and service to catamaran and trimaran sailors around the globe.

Follow us @themultihullcompany

• Pre-Owned Sales

Global Locations

New England +1-267-324-9067

Philadelphia +1-215-508-2704

Virginia +1-757-407-2526

Annapolis +1-703-350-8160

Charleston +1-843-364-4123

Brunswick +1-937-243-2213

Saint Augustine +1-910-477-2508

Fort Pierce +1 (772) 295-7900

West Palm Beach +1-561-312-0010

Ft. Lauderdale +1-215-508-2704

Miami +1-513-677-5338

St. Petersburg +1 727-432-2739

Seattle-Tacoma +1-206-297-1151

St. Martin +590 690 58 66 06

Grenada +1-473-457-3245

Puerto Rico +1-787-379-7348

Panama +1-305-735-1661

Trinidad +1-868-680-8909

Croatia +385 95 849 8009

France +33 (0) 6 73 97 17 30

Australia +61 (0)7 5444 4822

© Copyright 2024 The Multihull Company. All rights reserved.

Did You Know That We Offer Contract to Closing Services? Click Here to Find Out More.

Need Marine Financing? Apply Here With Our Partner, First Approval Source

• Catamaran Interviews
• Catamaran Reviews
• Buying Advice
• Selling Advice
• Woods Design Advice
•     Admiral 38
•     Admiral 40
•     Admiral 50
•     Americat 3014
•     Antares 44
•     Aquila 44
•     Aquila 48 Power Catamaran
•     Aventura 37
•     Balance 442
•     Balance 482
•     Balance 526
•     Bali 4.0
•     Bali 4.1
•     Bali 4.2
•     Bali 4.3
•     Bali 4.4
•     Bali 4.5
•     Bali 4.6
•     Bali 4.8
•     Bali 40 Catspace
•     Bali 5.4
•     Bali Catsmart
•     Beneteau Blue II
•     Broadblue 346
•     Broadblue 38 Prestige
•     Broadblue 385
•     Broadblue 435
•     Broadblue 46
•     Rapier 400
•     Rapier 550
•     Catalac 10M
•     Catalac 11M
•     Catalac 12M
•     Catalac 8M
•     Catalac 900
•     Catalac 9M
•     Catana 381
•     Catana 39
•     Catana 401
•     Catana 40S
•     Catana 411
•     Catana 42
•     Catana 42 S
•     Catana 431
•     Catana 44
•     Catana 471
•     Catana 50
•     Catana 521
•     Catana 531
•     Catana 55
•     Catana 581
•     Catana 65
•     Catathai 44
• Chris White
•     Chris White 48 Voyager
•     Chris White 55
•     Condor 40
•     Contour 34
•     Corsair F28 R
• De Villiers
•     Dean 365
•     Dean 400
•     Dean 440
•     Dean 500
•     Dix DH550
•     Dolphin 380
•     Dolphin 460
•     Edel 35
•     Endeavour 30
•     Endeavour 35 Victory
•     Endeavour 36
•     Endeavour 44
•     Endeavour 44 TrawlerCat
•     Endeavour 50 Pilothouse Trawler
•     Excess 11
•     Excess 15
•     F-41
•     Fastback 43
•     Fastcat 445
•     Fisher 28
•     Fisher 32
•     Fortuna 36 Island Spirit
•     Fortuna 401 Island Spirit
• Fountaine Pajot
•     FP 32 Maldives
•     FP 35 Tobago
•     FP 36 Mahe
•     FP 37 Antigua
•     FP 38 Athena
•     FP 39 Fidji
•     FP 40 Isla
•     FP 40 Lavezzi
•     FP 40 Lucia
•     FP 40 MY
•     FP 40 Summerland MY
•     FP 41 Lipari
•     FP 42 Astrea
•     FP 42 Venezia
•     FP 43 Belize
•     FP 44 Helia
•     FP 44 Orana
•     FP 45 Elba
•     FP 46 Bahia
•     FP 46 Casamance
•     FP 48 Salina
•     FP 50 Saba
•     FP 56 Marquises
•     FP 57 Sanya
•     FP 58 Ipanema
•     FP 60 Eleuthera
•     FP Saona 47
•     Fusion 40
•     Gemini 105
•     Gemini 3000
•     Gemini 3200
•     Gemini 3400
•     Gemini Freestyle 37
•     Gemini Freestyle 399 Power
•     Gemini Legacy 35
•     Grainger 420 Mystery Cove
•     Gunboat 55
•     Hirondelle 7M
•     HopYacht 30
• Island Packet
•     Island Packet Cat 35
•     Kennex 420
•     Knysna 440
•     Knysna 480
•     Knysna 500
•     Knysna 550
•     Lagoon 35
•     Lagoon 37 TPI
•     Lagoon 380
•     Lagoon 39
•     Lagoon 40
•     Lagoon 400
•     Lagoon 410
•     Lagoon 42
•     Lagoon 42 TPI
•     Lagoon 420
•     Lagoon 421
•     Lagoon 43 PC
•     Lagoon 44 Power Cat
•     Lagoon 440
•     Lagoon 450
•     Lagoon 46
•     Lagoon 470
•     Lagoon 50
•     Lagoon 500
•     Lagoon 52F
•     Lagoon 55
•     Lagoon 560
•     Lagoon 570
•     Lagoon 620
•     Lagoon Seventy 8
•     Lagoon Sixty 7
•     Leeuwin 42
•     Leopard 38
•     Leopard 39
•     Leopard 39 PowerCat
•     Leopard 40
•     Leopard 42
•     Leopard 43
•     Leopard 44
•     Leopard 45
•     Leopard 45 Classic
•     Leopard 46
•     Leopard 46 Lion PowerCat
•     Leopard 47
•     Leopard 47 PowerCat
•     Leopard 48
•     Leopard 50
•     Leopard 51 PowerCat
•     Leopard 53 PowerCat
•     Leopard 58
•     Lidgard 73 Executive
•     Looping 50
•     Maine Cat 30
•     Maine Cat 38
•     Maine Cat 41
•     Manta 40
•     Manta 42
•     Matrix 450 Vision
•     Matrix 760 Silhouette
•     Maverick 400
•     Maverick 420
•     Maverick 440
•     Moxie 61
•     Nautitech 40
•     Nautitech 40 Open
•     Nautitech 44 Open
•     Nautitech 442
•     Nautitech 46 Open
•     Nautitech 47
•     Nautitech 47 Power
•     Nautitech 475
•     Nautitech 65
•     Neel 45
•     Neel 47
•     Outremer 40
•     Outremer 45
•     Outremer 50 Standard
•     Outremer 55
•     Outremer 5X
•     PDQ 32
•     PDQ 36
•     PDQ 42 Antares
•     Privilege 37
•     Privilege 39
•     Privilege 42
•     Privilege 43
•     Privilege 435
•     Privilege 45
•     Privilege 465
•     Privilege 48 Transcat
•     Privilege 482
•     Privilege 495
•     Privilege 510
•     Privilege 65
•     Privilege Serie 5
•     Prout 31 Quest
•     Prout 33 Quest
•     Prout 34 Event
•     Prout 35 Snowgoose
•     Prout 37 Snowgoose
•     Prout 37 Snowgoose Elite
•     Prout 38
•     Prout 38 Manta
•     Prout 39 Escale
•     Prout 45
•     Prout 46
•     Royal Cape 45
•     Royal Cape 500 Majestic
•     Royal Cape 530 Majestic
•     Sailcraft 30 Iroquois
•     Sailcraft 32 Comanche
•     Sailcraft 35 Cherokee
•     Sailcraft 41 Apache
•     Sailcraft 44 Apache
•     Scape 39
•     Wildcat 350
•     Seacart 30
•     Seawind 1000
•     Seawind 1160
•     Seawind 1190
•     Seawind 1200
•     Seawind 1260
•     Seawind 1600
•     Simpson 48
•     Solaris 36 Sunrise
•     Solaris 36 Sunstar
•     Solaris 42
•     St Francis 44
•     St Francis 48
•     St Francis 50
•     Stealth 11.8
•     Sunreef 60
•     Sunreef 62
•     Sunreef 70
•     Sunreef 74C
•     Sunreef 82 DD
•     Sunreef 88 DD
•     Switch 51
•     Switch 55
•     TRT 1200
•     Heavenly Twins 26
•     Ocean Twins 38
•     Vaan R5
•     Vision 444
•     Voyage 380 Maxim
•     Voyage 400 Norseman
•     Voyage 430 Norseman
•     Voyage 440
•     Voyage 450 Cabriolet
•     Voyage 47 Mayotte
•     Voyage 480
•     Voyage 500
•     Voyage 580
•     Voyage 590
•     Kronos 45
•     Wharram 38 Tiki
•     AMI 320 Renaissance
•     Woods 22 Wizard
•     Woods 35 Banshee
•     Woods 35 Flica
•     Woods 36 Scylla
•     Woods 36 Vardo
•     Woods 38 Transit
•     Woods 40 Meander
•     Xquisite X5
•     Xquisite X5+

Catamaran Drives Types – Outboards, Inboards and Drive Shaft Configurations

• Post author By Patrick Davin
• Post date September 23, 2020
• 1 Comment on Catamaran Drives Types – Outboards, Inboards and Drive Shaft Configurations

Catamarans these days have many options for their engine based propulsion, even more than monohulls due to the more diverse configurations of a catamaran. The traditional twin diesel engines is a popular arrangement, and dual or single outboard configurations are also becoming popular. When choosing an inboard engine, you then often have a decision to make in drive shaft configuration: traditional straight shaft, or a saildrive. 

The drive type has long lasting consequences for how you use and maintain a boat, so it’s an important factor. It affects how much power you have for motoring into strong winds or against current, fuel economy, reliability, maintenance needs, and purchase plus maintenance costs. And let’s not forget noise level and liveability – the choice between diesel inboards vs gas outboards can have a big impact on cabin storage areas and engine noise level.

Single Gas Outboard

Outboards have always been common in smaller sailing boats (under about 30 feet) that don’t require a great deal of power to get them moving. However they’re now becoming popular with larger catamarans as well, up to about 40 or 45 feet. They offer several unique advantages over inboard diesel engines. First and foremost, they’re significantly less expensive than a diesel engine – a 30hp outboard might be around $4,000 while a 30hp diesel could easily be $20,000. They’re also smaller and lighter, and take up less space inside the hull – freeing up storage or accommodation space. 

Smaller catamarans or lightweight ones can often get by with a single outboard. The advantages are in the weight and cost savings of only having one engine instead of two, and only one engine to maintain. The downside is it may make maneuvering in a marina a bit trickier, and there’s no backup engine if the one outboard has an issue.

Twin Gas Outboards

Catamarans have a unique advantage over monohulls in that they can have more than one engine. Two engines provide many advantages – redundancy in case one fails at sea and greater maneuverability in marinas. Many catamarans can motor reasonably fast on only one engine – which some owners do to save fuel and reduce engine hours – but two are nice to have for the redundancy and for pivoting easily in tight quarters.

Twin outboards are usually mounted at the aft end of each hull, or in drop-down lockers built into the cockpit. Some catamarans with twin outboards have them located in lockers under the cockpit seats (ex, Seawind 1160 lite and PDQ 36) which is handy because they can be raised to eliminate drag yet are easily accessible to work on, and don’t add an unsightly appendage to the stern. 

Speaking with an owner of a Seawind 1160 lite catamaran with dual outboards located in a well under the cockpit seats, he noted appreciating all the space they freed up vs having inboard diesels installed at the aft of each hull. In the space normally occupied by diesel engines, they store two bikes, a kayak, a water heater and other gear. 

He also loves that they’re quiet, fuel efficient, emissions efficient, and can be raised with electric tilt for zero drag in the water while sailing. One disadvantage he noted is the impellers are harder to replace, and he’s hauling out to make it easier to replace the gear oil along with impellers. 

Outboards may not have as long a life span as diesels, but when it comes time to replace, he can do so relatively easily anywhere in the world, with much less work than replacing a diesel. One possible disadvantage is in rough seas or steep swell, outboard props may come out of the water – whether this can happen will depend on the design and size of the catamaran.

Single Diesel Inboard/Outboard Sillette Drive

A somewhat unique option is the Sillette Sonic drive (common on Gemini 105 catamarans) which is a type of saildrive. It allows using an inboard engine with an outboard drive leg exterior to the boat. The drive leg can be raised while under sail, providing the same no drag advantage as outboards, while having the engine inboard which protects it from saltwater. The drive leg is typically mounted from the bridgedeck or in a pod underneath. 

Diesel Inboards with Direct Drives

Inboard diesel engines have historically been the most common option in mid to large size monohulls and multihulls. Diesels excel in delivering high working power while being exceptionally reliable over a long service life. Since a diesel is located inside the boat, it’s exposed to a lot less seawater than outboards are. Diesels can also support a powerful alternator to charge the house batteries, reducing the need for alternate power generation such as solar, wind or a generator.

The straight shaft is the more traditional option and is a tried and tested design from work boats to pleasure boats. In this design the propellor shaft connects from the engine (via a shaft coupling), passes through the hull of the boat (via a shaft seal) and connects to the propellor. Typically there will also be a strut forward of the propellor to stabilize the spinning prop shaft. 

The advantages of this design are that it’s robust and easy to maintain. If your propellor strikes a submerged object, it may get damaged but isn’t likely to rip a huge hole in the boat. The main disadvantage in a catamaran is the shaft placement limits where the engine can be placed – it must be fairly far forward, and takes up more space due to the shaft and transmission arrangement. Additionally, since the shaft isn’t perfectly horizontal, the propellor works at a slightly lower efficiency.

Diesel Inboards with Saildrives

Diesel inboards paired with a saildrive are quickly becoming the most common installation option on newly built catamarans. With a saildrive there’s no shaft or strut needed, just a drive leg attached to the hull of the boat underneath the engine. A couple advantage of saildrives is that they’re easier for manufacturers to install, and allow more flexible positioning of the engine to free up greater interior space. Saildrives can also have higher efficiency due to the vertical orientation of the propellor. Saildrives often run quieter, with less vibration than a conventional straight shaft system. 

There are a few possible disadvantages that boaters typically cite, relating to maintenance: watertightness of the saildrive seal, maintenance of the drive leg oil, and corrosion. The saildrive seal must be maintained or the boat could potentially flood. The drive legs also have gear oil which usually requires hauling out to replace (except for some newer saildrives which support changing it from inside the boat). Neglecting the maintenance could cause seawater to start mixing with the oil. Lastly, corrosion is a concern because the drive leg contains metal components which must be protected with sacrificial anodes. 

Gasoline Inboards

Gasoline inboards, such as the Universal Atomic 4, are sometimes found on sailboats but are becoming much less common. A gas engine has greater risk of fire or explosion due to fuel vapor build-up. Fuel efficiency can also be slightly lower than a diesel engine, and engine longevity may be less than with diesel engines.

Electric Drive Type

Electric propulsion options are still a niche market in boating but are becoming increasingly popular as battery technologies advance. Electric systems can be other hybrid (electric recharging is assisted by a generator) or full electric (recharging only via solar and other non-fuel sources). Hydro generation can be a good recharging source on catamarans since their higher sailing speeds improve the output of hydro generators. 

The advantages of an electric drive are: environmentally friendly, very quiet when operating, frees up space that a large engine and fuel tanks consumed, and relatively easy maintenance compared to diesel or gas engines. The main disadvantage of electric drives is the motoring range may be more limited, especially in the full electric option. 

It’s great to have so many options in today’s catamaran designs. Having these choices allows you to prioritize what’s most important in your sailing and maintenance plans and adopt innovative technologies that make your boat best suited to your needs. 

You can’t go wrong with the traditional choice of diesel inboards, but in mid-size lightweight catamarans you may also want to consider outboards for the space they can free up, lower initial cost, and quiet, drag-free sailing.

• Tags Buying Advice

By Patrick Davin

Patrick is a full-time cruiser in the Pacific Northwest, sailing the waters from Seattle to Alaska.

1 reply on “Catamaran Drives Types – Outboards, Inboards and Drive Shaft Configurations”

I am looking for a silkette sonic mark 2 out drive in working order…1994 or newer…can you help?

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.

ACTIVE STORM TRACKER Hurricane and Tropical Storm Information Learn more

Service Locator

• Angler Endorsement
• Boat Towing Coverage
• Mechanical Breakdown
• Insurance Requirements in Mexico
• Agreed Hull Value
• Actual Cash Value
• Liability Only
• Insurance Payment Options
• Claims Information
• Towing Service Agreement
• Membership Plans
• Boat Show Tickets
• BoatUS Boats For Sale
• Membership Payment Options
• Consumer Affairs
• Boat Documentation Requirements
• Installation Instructions
• Shipping & Handling Information
• Contact Boat Lettering
• End User Agreement
• Frequently Asked Questions
• Vessel Documentation
• BoatUS Foundation
• Government Affairs
• Powercruisers
• Buying & Selling Advice
• Maintenance
• Tow Vehicles
• Make & Create
• Makeovers & Refitting
• Accessories
• Electronics
• Skills, Tips, Tools
• Spring Preparation
• Winterization
• Boaters’ Rights
• Environment & Clean Water
• Boat Safety
• Navigational Hazards
• Personal Safety
• Batteries & Onboard Power
• Motors, Engines, Propulsion
• Books & Movies
• Cockpit Confessions
• Communication & Etiquette
• Contests & Sweepstakes
• Colleges & Tech Schools
• Food, Drink, Entertainment
• New To Boating
• Travel & Destinations
• Watersports
• Anchors & Anchoring
• Boat Handling
• ← Seamanship

Sail And Power Catamarans: Developing A 'Catitude'

Advertisement

Once you get the hang of it, multihulls are a blast to drive. Here's how to handle these versatile, comfortable boats — sail or power — for those considering chartering a cat.

This 43-foot cat is trimmed well for upwind sailing. But once main and boom are eased out to accommodate wind direction, the jib may create a pinched slot as jib tracks are located on cabin tops. (Photo: Privilège Catamarans/Nico Krauss)

As a freelance marine journalist with a U.S. Coast Guard 100-Ton Master license, I get to captain dozens of boats of various designs and sizes. I'm also a cat convert from monohull boating with plenty of firsthand knowledge to share. If you're thinking of chartering or buying a cat, you'll benefit from their inherent advantages. Cats offer more room than the same-lengthmonohulls, they usually have better system access, and sailing cats may be faster in light wind because they're not dragging a heavy keel through the water.

Cats operate upright so you won't be on your ear in a blow. You can cook and sleep on a passage without "walking on the hull" like in a monohull that's heeling. You also spend more time above the waterline on a cat rather than the dreaded "down below" on a monohull.

Of course, for all the pluses, there are minuses: Finding a marina berth for a cat is difficult and expensive. Unlike monohulls that get into the groove and slice through waves when sailing upwind, cats can slap the water if the bridge deck clearance is low, or when the seas meet the underside of the bridge deck.

People who usually sail monohulls may be accustomed to being alerted to the wind rising too much by the increasing heel of the boat. If you get this amount of heeling in a cat, you may be beyond the point of no return; though this isn't as likely with many of today's heavier, wider models. Cats are not self-righting; you have to stay alert to worsening weather.

Also, unless it's a performance model with daggerboards, a cat only has mini-keels, so it won't point high and can be a bit like maneuvering a shoebox. They don't track well, tending to slip to leeward, and they tack slowly because they have to push two hulls rather than one through the eye of the wind. Finally, cats have fairly shallow rudders, so close-quarters maneuvering comes more from dual engine thrust, rather than the water flowing over the rudders — effective, but something to get used to.

An easy adjustment to position the jib out farther and improve performance is shown in this illustration.

When it comes to the emerging power-catamaran trend, driving cats under power is a straight-up joy. Their two props are set wide apart resulting in much better control and precise maneuvering in close quarters. Cats don't coast like monohulls because they don't have a keel to keep them tracking, so gliding into a dock at a shallow angle doesn't work, and neither does using propwalk to tuck in the stern. You use the engines to spin a cat in its own length or walk it sideways, both of which are easier to master than the nuances of driving a monohull.

Regardless of whether you're docking, picking up a mooring, or anchoring, always keep the boat powered up and ready to drive until you're done because you can't just push a 45-foot cat around by hand. Here are some handling tips that apply to handling both sail and power catamarans.

Don't Ding The Dock

When there's no wind, bigger sailcats also have an engine, which is needed in each hull. They aren't powered to drive as fast, but the principles are the same. Keep in mind, boats and conditions are varied, so we can only give examples here.

• Forget about the wheel when docking side-to or forward. Lock it on the centerline with the wheel lock or by leaning your body against it and maneuver using the throttles (see illustrations below). Power forward with the starboard engine, and aft with the port, and the cat moves to port and vice versa. Turn this around in your head when in reverse. Fine tune adjustments by using one engine at a time. Pause the propeller in neutral when changing directions from forward to reverse and vice-versa to give transmissions time to engage.

• Backing into a slip: Cats dock stern-to because the bows are high and it's easier to step on and off the dock via the swim platforms aft. When backing straight into a slip, come abeam, pivot 90 degrees with the engines until centered, and back in. If Med-mooring, drop anchor and pay out the rode slowly as you back with both engines. Set the anchor part way back, then keep backing and letting out rode until you're close enough to the dock to tie up the stern lines. Have fenders already tied aft to cushion the transoms. Tighten up on the anchor rode with the windlass.

Wind And Current

As with any boat, it's best to work against the current for better control.

• When departing a starboard tie-up with the current coming at the bow, put a fender and line on the starboard aft corner, power aft with the port engine, pivot, then drive out forward with both engines against the current. If the current is coming from behind, back out, putting a line and fender on the starboard bow. Power in reverse with the starboard engine, pivot, and then back out with both engines.
• Cats have high cabin tops, producing lots of windage. In tight quarters, you may need to turn more sharply when approaching a dock or line up to windward before backing in.

Picking Up A Mooring

Cats have high hulls and it's easy for the skipper to lose sight of a mooring ball before the boat is close enough for the crew to pick it up. Keep the mooring on the side where you can best see forward so you can keep an eye on the ball at all times. (Some cat helm stations are offset to one side or the other.)

• Hand signals or a headset for you and the crew make communications easier to send and receive rather than yelling.
• Have your crew pick up the mooring with a boat hook while you maneuver with the engines to keep station — easier on a cat than a monohulls, even in wind and current.
• Have lines ready by stringing one off a cleat on each hull. To do this, thread each line through the eye or loop, then back onto its cleat. Do this with both sides and adjust until the mooring sits on the centerline. This will minimize swinging and chafe, and noise in the forward cabins.

Anchoring is generally easier on a cat than a monohull. There's more room forward for crew to work, and you can keep the boat steady with the engines.

• A bridle should be preset with a line from each hull (under the trampoline) and hook or shackle in the middle. Once the anchor and chain is down, attach the bridle to the chain (usually done near the windlass) and set the hook putting the pressure on the bridle. Once set, let out enough chain to create a catenary.
• When raising anchor, take care to keep the chain in between the bows or you risk damaging the fiberglass by shaving the bottom of one or the other if you overrun the chain or lose track of where it is. Crew communication is critical.

Sail-Specific Cats

Here's how to coax the best out of a sailing catamaran:

• Big cats carry huge mainsails, so raising one typically requires an electric winch. It also may be challenging to keep full battens out of the lazyjacks that hold up the sail bag, so it can take a few people to raise a large sail. Also, there are usually multiple angles to the way halyards are run on cats with flybridges, resulting in friction. So "dropping" the mainsail can be more like "pulling" it down. Attach a messenger-type line to the mainsail head so it comes down easier.
• Reefing can be a guessing game because you don't feel a cat being overpowered like you do a monohull. Depending on the direction of sail and the sea state, you may be able to reef a little later with the wind a few knots higher — an individual call.
• Cat headsail tracks are typically on the cabin top making the sail curve back on itself, creating a wind break when it's sheeted in. A trick is to bring a spare line from the jib clue out to a cleat on the side deck to open up the slot to let air flow through. Check for chafe on the cabin and don't forget to release it before tacking.
• The majority of multihulls are built to sail on a beam or broad reach, and that's where they're the happiest. Dead downwind, cats shimmy a little making wing-on-wing sailing tricky, not all that different from monohulls. For more comfort, choose one broad reach or the other, then jibe when necessary.
• Cats with daggerboards can point higher and track better because, like monohulls, they have an appendage (or two) down low in the water for a better center of lateral resistance. Daggerboards are mostly used when sailing upwind, and it helps to keep the leeward board lower than the windward one. Sailing downwind with the boards lowered could create a tripping hazard, especially in rough seas where it's possible to stuff the bows into the wave ahead. When motorsailing, a trick to saving fuel and pointing higher is to run only the leeward engine for a little pointing assist.

Next time you have an opportunity to test drive a power or sailing cat, or to charter one on your next holiday, try it! The learning curve is so quick, it's really fun, and before you know it, you, too, may convert to being a cat person!

Catamaran Brands

You can further explore the array of catamarans, big and small, power and sail, by visiting any of these leading manufacturers.

• Aquila Power Catamarans
• Aspen Power Catamarans
• Fountaine-Pajot
• Horizon Power Catamarans
• Leopard Catamarans
• Nautitech 47 Power
• Balance Catamarans
• Fountaine Pajot
• Outremer Catamarans
• Seawind Catamarans

Related Articles

The truth about ceramic coatings for boats.

Our editor investigates the marketing claims of consumer-grade ceramic coatings.

Fine-Tune Your Side Scan Fishfinder

Take your side-scanning fishfinder off auto mode, and you’ll be spotting your prey from afar in no time

DIY Boat Foam Decking

Closed-cell foam flooring helps make boating more comfortable. Here’s how to install it on your vessel

Click to explore related articles

Zuzana Prochazka

Contributor, BoatUS Magazine

Zuzana Prochazka is a freelance journalist specializing in writing, editing, and photography in boating and travel publications. She writes for a dozen boating magazines and websites and a growing list of travel publications. She enjoys combining her passions, which include seeing the world, sailing the oceans, and sharing her experiences through the written word. She holds a U.S. Coast Guard 100 Master license.

BoatUS Magazine Is A Benefit Of BoatUS Membership

Membership Benefits Include:

Subscription to the print version of BoatUS Magazine

4% back on purchases from West Marine stores or online at WestMarine.com

Discounts on fuel, transient slips, repairs and more at over 1,200 businesses

Deals on cruises, charters, car rentals, hotel stays and more…

All for only $25/year!

We use cookies to enhance your visit to our website and to improve your experience. By continuing to use our website, you’re agreeing to our cookie policy.

Sail Drives

Saildrives are often used on catamarans as they result in a very compact drive system.  Multihulls have narrow hulls, so there's not enough room to walk around an engine, as there is on most monohulls.  So a catamaran's engines are usually under the aft bunks, which usually doesn't leave much room for a gearbox, propeller shaft, external "A" bracket, and still have room for the rudder.  Saildrives attach to the back of the engine and immediately go down through the bottom of the boat, sort of like the leg of an outboard motor.  A pair of flexible seals (the main seal and a backup) keep water from flooding the engine room on Yanmar saildrives (Volvo saildrives only have a single seal).  There are a handful of manufacturers who offer saildrives, but Volvo and Yanmar are probably the biggest, and the vast majority of saildrives we see are produced by those two manufacturers.  Since we have Yanmar 4JH2CE engines and SD31 saildrives, the comments below are aimed primarily at Yanmar saildrives, but Volvo saildrives are similar enough that many of the comments apply to both.

The first 6 subjects we discuss are modifications we recommend folks do to their saildrives.  The last 3 are procedures we've had to do recently and we thought we'd share our experiences, to help others.  Subjects in this article include:

Oil Header Tanks Like virtually all manual gearboxes, saildrives are filled with 90W hypoid oil (ideally, salt-resistant oil if you can find it).  This oil is held in by a pair of oil seals around the propeller shaft.  Those oil seals will eventually wear out so they need to be replaced periodically.  They're usually fairly standard seals, but replacing them means dismantling the bottom end of your saildrive and then disassembling the gear-cluster to get at the seals - a messy and fiddly business requiring some familiarity with the parts and procedures involved (and sometimes requiring special tools).

But it's very important to service those seals before they leak.  Since the saildrive is wholly below water level, the seawater on the outside is at a slightly higher pressure than the oil on the inside.  This means that if the seals start to leak, seawater will enter the bottom of the saildrive and start turning your oil into mayonnaise.  If this happens, you need to haul the boat out of the water and service the saildrive as soon as possible , before the seawater starts to corrode the gears and bearings.

In the Seychelles we ran into an excellent father/son machine shop, and I got to talking with the father.  He'd seen a lot of marine equipment - in fact, he was refurbishing a turbocharger for a 5,000 horsepower diesel engine when I met him.  When I explained this problem with the oil seals, he had an excellent idea:  Put an oil header-tank as high up in the engine room as practicable, and run a hose from it to the saildrive .  That way, the oil will be at a slightly higher pressure than the seawater.  If the seals start to leak before their normal maintenance interval, all that will happen is that a bit of oil will leak out.  You'll be able to see the oil level dropping slightly in the header tank, and that will tell you that you need to replace the oil seals the next time you haul the boat.  But it's no longer an emergency!

We did this conversion in 2009 when we were in South Africa, and it has worked very well.  The oil-fill / dipstick hole is a standard 1" (pipe?) thread, so we just removed the dipstick and replaced it with some pipe fittings to take the hose to the header tank.  Using a plastic reducer where it goes into the saildrive will insure that you have no thread incompatibilities.  Our SD31 required that the pipe extend above the body of the SD before putting in the elbow.  We put a small valve in the hose so we can shut the header-tank oil off when we want to change the saildrive oil, so we don't change the oil in the header.

There are a couple of caveats here.  First, the normal filler/dipstick keeps the pressure in when the oil heats up and expands.  This strikes us as crazy, as it can force the oil past the propshaft seals.  We can see no advantage to letting the pressure increase like that, and this header tank arrangement will keep the oil pressure much more constant, and at a lower pressure than a hot normal dive.  This should be especially good for the oil seal on the input shaft from the engine.

Another issue is that the prop‑shaft oil seals should be turned around.  Oil seals are direction sensitive.  The flat side should go against what you don't care as much about, while the side with the spring (to hold the seal against the shaft) should go towards the side of the stuff you don't want to go past the seal.  Changing the seals around is easy to do once you have the lower gear‑cluster apart.  Some people we've talked to have put the 2 seals back to back, with the inner seal set to keep the oil in, and the outer seal set to keep the water out.  We take this a step further.  In our opinion, keeping the water out is the most important, so we put both seals with their backs towards the gears.  If you do this, remember to remove the spring from any seals that will face the saltwater and replace them with an O‑ring that won't rust, especially if you use generic (non‑Yanmar) seals.

Finally, it will probably take a little while (several days of motoring) before all the air works its way out of the saildrive and up the hose, through the thick oil to the header tank.  While this is happening, it may look like you're losing some oil, but it's just air coming out.  Top it up, and it should stop eventually.

Secondary Seals Yanmar saildrives have 2 flexible seals between the saildrive leg and the hull, to keep the water out.  The primary seal is a monster of thick rubber while the secondary seal, above the primary seal, is much thinner, more like a car inner‑tube.  The secondary seal is what you actually see from above, and it's really only there for emergencies, in case something happens to the primary seal.  But for the secondary seal to be effective, it has to be able to survive whatever caused the primary seal to fail.  It's unlikely that the primary seals will simply "wear out" and develop a leak.  Our seals have been in for 15 years, 4,000 hours of motoring, and they look brand new.  It's going to be an accident that causes that main seal to leak.

In the Ha'apai Group of Tonga we had a big problem when we caught a rope in our starboard propeller and ripped that engine and saildrive clean off its mounts.  This ripped the main seal that joins the saildrive to the hull, so we had water coming into the engine room.  We were very lucky that the secondary seal had just popped off, and could be reset fairly easily.  In fact, once we reset the secondary seal, it didn't even affect our cruising much, as we just continued cruising with our port engine (although anchoring was distressingly awkward).

It turns out that SunSail (who had managed Ocelot before we bought her) had replaced the $70 clip that Yanmar sells to hold that secondary seal with a large $5 stainless‑steel hose‑clamp.  The Yanmar part holds the seal so securely that, had it been used, we might well have shredded the secondary seal as well as the primary!  This would have been a REAL problem, especially since we were out in the boonies - a good 90 miles from what passes for civilization in Tonga.

In our opinion, Yanmar (or any end user with a saildrive) should replace the fancy clip holding the top of that secondary seal with something like a hose‑clamp that holds the seal securely enough, but not too securely.  It's also possible to use a large tie‑wrap (cable‑tie) or several tie‑wraps threaded end‑to‑end, but they will be less secure and harder to loosen in an emergency.  It's an easy and inexpensive modification which could potentially save lots of grief if you ever need that secondary seal.

Plastic Bag Screens Much of the third world has a LOT of plastic garbage in the water.  Motoring through this can get plastic bags sucked up the leg of the saildrive.  In 2019 we had to take the foot off our starboard saildrive, and we found no less than 3(!) plastic bags stuck in the cavity at the joint .  They couldn't have gotten sucked through the 6 small holes just above the propeller, so they much have been sucked up the much larger water intake at the "heel" of the sail‑drive.  So we used a long grabber (what is usually used to retrieve lost bolts in inaccessible places) up that water intake of our port saildrive and retrieved 2 more plastic bags from it!  Twisting the grabber once you grab a bag will make the bag come out more easily.

Both Yanmar and Volvo saildrives have a large (1" or 25mm, square) water inlet in the "heel" of the foot (Yanmars have an additional set of much smaller inlets just above the propeller hub).  In thinking about how to protect this area from further plastic bags, we eventually came up with the following neat and simple solution:

• Drill 4 small holes, 2 on each side of the large water inlet.  I used a 1/16" drill.  Take it slowly, as these small drills break easily.  Drill from just outside the opening in towards the opening.  The holes should be on the order of 1/4" (6mm) long.  Round the edges of the holes if you can.  
• Thread some seizing wire through the holes and across the opening.  We put our holes closer to the edges of the inlet, and then crossed the wires in the middle, so the wire made a total of 4 crossings of the inlet.

That's it!  Pretty simple once the boat is hauled out.  Any plastic that can get through those small holes will flow easily up to our water strainers, but the bags will get stopped before getting sucked up the foot and getting into trouble.

In designing this with our cruising friends, we had some discussion about bi‑metallic action.  Seizing wire is usually monel or stainless steel, which shouldn't react strongly with the aluminum of the saildrive.  But you can also drill a slightly larger hole and strip the insulation off some thin electrical wire and thread the seizing wire through that insulation where it goes through the aluminum, if it makes you feel better.

Another approach might be to drill even larger holes and use plastic tie‑wraps (wire‑ties).  These certainly won't react with the aluminum, but they'll also need to be replaced periodically, as they're both thicker and weaker than wire.

Replacing the water inlet valve I'm not sure what Yanmar was thinking when they decided to use a multi‑turn valve to turn off the cooling water, on the side of the saildrive.  In seawater, calcium leeches out of the water and deposits itself on the screw‑threads of the valve, jamming it so it can't be closed, which makes the valve pretty useless.  You can remove the valve and soak it in acid to remove the calcium, but you'd have to do it every few months, and the boat almost has to be out of the water to remove that valve.  Also, the acid could easily attack parts of the valve as well as the calcium.  Neither of our old valves EVER worked since we bought Ocelot.

The correct thing to do, of course, is to replace the silly multi‑turn valve with a good quality ball‑valve.  We went with a stainless‑steel valve, but given that the saildrive is aluminum, plastic or bronze might be better.  As with all ball‑valves, and especially those bought in 3rd‑world countries, make sure the handle is stainless‑steel as well.  Many places sell cheaper valves with mild‑steel handles that just rust to bits in months.

Sealing the leg with epoxy Most saildrives have an aluminum outer casing.  If you paint this casing with normal copper‑based antifouling paints, you run the risk of bimetallic action eating up your saildrive.  They sell special (non‑copper based) antifouling paints to go on aluminum, but we've never found one that lasted more than about 9 months before starting to allow growth.  Since our normal antifouling paints often last 2‑3 years, it's frustrating to have foul saildrives on an otherwise clean hull.  It's also a pain to have to buy and carry 2 different types of antifouling paint.

In early 2010 we decided to clean our saildrives back to bare aluminum and then coat them in several layers of epoxy, to act as an insulating layer.  Then we could use normal (long lasting) antifouling paints on the whole bottom, including the saildrives and props.  As I write this (about a week after epoxy-coating and painting our saildrives) it all seemed to go quite well.  Our West System epoxy went on like fine varnish, with no running or any signs of beading up or surface tension.  We put 4 layers of epoxy on (in about 4 hours) before painting on the antifouling.  (See the Update below, written 9 years later, for how well this worked.)  We'll especially watch our zinc anodes, to see if they're dissolving faster than normal (the anodes we took off had been on for 3 years).  If anyone else has experience with this, please let us know .

If you decide to do this yourself, make sure you read our article about how to make epoxy stick to aluminum .  It's fairly straightforward to do, but it's not what the paint retailers will recommend.  It involves stripping all old paint off your saildrives (a drill or small angle grinder with a fiber wheel will help tremendously here), cleaning the saildrives well with acetone or alcohol, painting on a good epoxy, and then sanding the aluminum through the wet epoxy (we typically use 80 grit wet/dry sandpaper).  This will remove the oxide layer that forms on aluminum.  Without any free oxygen near the aluminum, it will also prevent the oxide layer from forming again, allowing the epoxy a good chemical bond as well as a good mechanical key.  The epoxy will turn aluminum colored from the sanded off aluminum, but that's OK.  Only the first layer of epoxy needs to be sanded.  If you're using a good epoxy that doesn't contain solvents (like West System epoxy) then the next layer of epoxy can be applied in about an hour, as soon as the under-layer has started to kick off.  It should be mostly tack-free, but still soft enough to dig a fingernail into.  This wet‑on‑wet approach will allow the epoxy to bond well to itself.  If the epoxy is solvent free, then the first layer of antifouling can also be applied before the epoxy has fully hardened, but if you allow the epoxy to harden it should be lightly sanded and cleaned with acetone before applying the next coat.

If the epoxy you use has solvents or, even worse, oils or waxes, you'll need to wait until it hardens completely, then give each coat of epoxy a light sanding and wipe it down with acetone or alcohol to clean off any oils before applying the next coat.  This will require 12‑24 hours between coats.  Better to use a high‑quality epoxy if possible.

Other things to look out for:   Make sure you mask off your anodes well.  Try hard to epoxy coat everywhere you might want to paint, as you don't want straight paint on bare aluminum if you can help it.  This can be difficult around fiddly bits, like up under the rubber boot, or inside the water‑inlet holes.  We sanded our water‑inlet holes by folding a bit of sandpaper into a thin strip and poking it through the holes, pulling it back and forth to sand as much as we could.  You also need to be careful around the oil drain‑plug.  The plug itself is steel and doesn't need epoxy, and you certainly don't want epoxy to get into the crack between the drain‑plug and the casing or into the screwdriver slot, so we'd recommend masking off the whole area for the epoxy phase.  You might even consider squirting a bit of lanolin grease up into the crack with a plastic syringe (we keep a plastic syringe full of lanolin grease handy, as we're constantly using it).

The object of this whole exercise is to provide an insulating layer between the copper in the antifouling paint and the aluminum of the saildrive.  Although the epoxy is only about 0.015" (0.4mm) thick, it should provide good electrical insulation.  Since seawater is so conductive, there may still be a small bimetallic effect, but it should be easily absorbed by the zincs.

Saildrive Boots Saildrives typically have a bit of rubber that goes between the saildrive and the outside of the hull, to make for smooth water-flow around the saildrive.  Both the Yanmar and the Volvo parts are rather thin and flimsy, so they rarely last more than a year or 2.  Being official parts, they're also, of course, quite expensive.

Both of the official parts actually contact the saildrive leg.  This permits a good seal and good water‑flow around the leg, but it also allows engine (and saildrive) vibration to go through the boots, which will eventually tear up both the rubber boot itself as well as whatever adhesive you use to stick the boot to the hull.

In Tonga, our saildrive boots needed replacing.  But the closest Yanmar dealer was in New Zealand, and getting parts out of them was like pulling teeth.  They ignored our emails, even when we put EMERGENCY in big letters on the subject line.  The only way we got their attention was to call them on a satellite phone ("Oh, THAT emergency email...").  Yeesh!

So instead of going through Yanmar, we went up to the local auto‑parts store and bought some truck mud‑flaps.  These are thick (1/4" or 6mm) rubber, much sturdier than the standard Yanmar parts.  Amanda carved these into the correct shape but left a small gap (again, about 1/4" or 6mm) between the boot and the saildrive.  This still permits good water‑flow around the saildrives, but the boot would no longer be subjected to engine or saildrive vibration, so it should last much longer.

To hold these boots in place, we first tapered the edges, to provide less of an edge for things to grab onto.  Then we forced them over the saildrives (the props have to be removed) and cleaned all surfaces thoroughly.  Instead of using contact adhesive, we stuck the boots to the hull with fast‑cure 5200.  Sika‑flex would probably have worked just as well since they're both polysulfide adhesives.  Finally, we made stainless steel strips to go on the edges of the boots, and screwed through the strips and the boots into the hull.  We replaced the starboard side flap in 2019, so it had lasted 15 years!  (But while she was at it, Amanda carved a second pair of saildrive boots, just in case...)

Removing and replacing the saildrive legs, and replacing the main diaphragm: Sometimes it's necessary to remove the leg of the saildrive.  We've had to replace the main diaphragm seal on both sides, and we've also had some arguments with reefs that necessitated removing the legs.  We also know boats where water has crept into the oil from the leg joint, requiring replacing the O‑ring between the leg and the gearbox.

First, drain the oil, and remove the rubber "boot" that goes between the leg and the hull (and see our section on saildrive boots when replacing them).

On most boats, the saildrive is meant to be installed and removed from the top, and only the bulb at the bottom, housing the prop‑shaft bearings, has to go through the hull, so the opening often isn't very big.  We strongly recommend grinding the hole to open it up a bit, as the flanges joining the 2 halves of the saildrive are 8.25" (21cm) in diameter.  If you can't grind it open that much, grind it open as much as you can.  It will help tremendously, especially when putting the leg back together.  If you decide to open the hole up more once you've removed the leg, make sure you protect the gearbox from your grindings.  You don't want fiberglass (or anything else) in the saildrive oil.

Looking up the hole, you should now be able to see the flange, with the 8 bolts holding it to the gearbox above.  The bolts need an Allen‑key, so we use one from our socket‑set, with a long extension.  Loosen the bolts as you would a car‑wheel, loosening one and then the bolt opposite that one, so you don't warp the flange.  Loosen all the bolts a turn or 2, and then go back and remove them completely.  Have someone help you hold the leg up before removing the last 2 bolts.  If the hole in the hull isn't big enough, the leg may have to be tilted on its side to get it out.

The top of the lower driveshaft should be sticking out the top of the leg, possibly with the short joiner section that joins it to the upper driveshaft.  If the joiner is not sitting on the lower driveshaft un‑stick it from the upper driveshaft in the gearbox and put it somewhere safe.

At this point, you can do whatever it was that you needed to do to the leg that required its removal.

If you're needing to replace the main diaphragm, there are some additional steps.  Note that the service manual says that the main diaphragm needs to be replaced every few years.  This is pure CYA hogwash.  In 2019 we replaced our starboard diaphragm seal that we'd installed in Tonga in 2003, so it was 16 years old, and had sailed more than halfway around the world.  It was in absolutely perfect condition.  Once we cleaned some growth off it, we couldn't tell it from our new one, either in looks, toughness, or flexibility.  So we'd say to replace the main diaphragm only when you need to, but it doesn't need to be replaced on a routine basis.

To replace the main diaphragm:

• Remove the 8 bolts holding the big alloy ring down to the inside of the hull.
• Put a rope around the support at the back of the saildrive and lead it to a winch.
• Gently raise the back of the saildrive, with the ring attached, up about 4" (10cm).
• Remove the old diaphragm.  It should fall out easily, but it might need some help.
• Clean any corrosion from the thick grooves under the alloy ring and under the flange for the leg.  Also clean the inside of the hull, where it will sit.
• Smear some silicon or synthetic (non‑oil‑based) grease in those grooves, on the hull where it will sit, on the ridges of the diaphragm, and under those ridges.
• Position the new diaphragm and lower the back of the saildrive back down to the hull, making sure the diaphragm snuggles completely into the grooves.
• Replace the bolts holding the alloy ring to the hull and tighten them to the correct torque.
• You may also want to replace the secondary seal (see Secondary Seals above).

Replacing the leg:

First, clean both mating surfaces thoroughly.  Make sure there are no dings or burrs or any debris that might keep the flanges from coming completely together.  Run your fingers over the surfaces as sometimes you can feel things that you can't see.  Pay special attention to the groove where the O‑ring will seat.  If the O‑ring doesn't seal completely, water can get into the oil, so this is extremely important.  You should also probably put the gearbox into gear, to keep the upper driveshaft from spinning.

There should be an O‑ring around the base of the cylindrical column that sticks out of the top of the leg.  We just reused what was there when we replaced our diaphragms, and that worked, but the O‑ring should really be replaced if possible.  And this is where it gets ticklish.  The stock Yanmar O‑ring is 70mm in diameter and 3mm thick.  But this is too big to fit snuggly on the leg.  If you start with it there, you'll almost certainly pinch it against the gearbox and it won't seal correctly.  So you have to put it inside the lip of the gearbox.  But if you touch it with anything (like the lower driveshaft as you're trying to juggle it into position) then the O‑ring will fall out of position.  And since you can't see it when it goes back together, you can't tell if it's properly positioned or not!  Yanmar really only designed the leg to be reattached to the gearbox while on a workbench.  But removing the gearbox from the engine so it can be worked on is a HUGE job.

Luckily, there are a few things you can do to help the situation (and these tricks, learned at the school of experience and hard knocks, are the main reason we're publishing this section).

• Use a slightly smaller diameter O‑ring so it fits snuggly on the protrusion of the leg.  Going from 70mm to 65mm shouldn't affect that O‑ring's ability to seal that joint significantly.  Even a 60mm O‑ring that's 4mm thick will work, and this is a much more common size (and is what we've used).  With the O‑ring held snuggly around the projection on the leg, there's no chance that it will get knocked out of position when the leg is trying to mate to the gearbox.  We smeared a thick layer of extra grease around the O‑ring, to help it seal.
• If you can't get a smaller O‑ring, then get some contact cement and glue the O‑ring into the upper groove.  Put a thin layer of contact cement on the gearbox where the O‑ring will sit (against the top, not on the sides) and put a thin layer on one side (but not the outer edge) of the O‑ring.  Wait until the contact cement is dry, and then push the O‑ring against the glue, pushing it firmly into position.  In a pinch, you might be able to use super‑glue, but contact cement is basically rubber when it cures, while super‑glue cures harder and could be a problem if/when you have to remove that O‑ring next time.  Once the O‑ring is held in place, you can apply a good layer of grease around it to help it seal.
• The upper and lower driveshafts will have to mate together, and this is not as easy as it sounds because the 2 driveshafts have to be exactly aligned for the splines to mesh.  But it's much easier if you make some guides to position the leg correctly.  Cut some lengths of 10mm threaded‑rod into about 3" (8cm) lengths.  We've only needed 2, but friends have said it's easier with 3 or 4.  Screw these into the holes in the gearbox where the flange bolts will go, spacing them evenly around the flange.  If you've ground your opening enough that your leg can drop straight out, then you'll be able to use more guides, but if your flange is bigger than your opening, you may not be able to get more than 2 guides into position.  We have to use fore and aft holes for our guides.
• The coupler that joins the upper and lower driveshafts together needs to be fitted to the end of one of the driveshafts.  If you've ground out enough of the hull that the leg can go straight in/out, then put the coupler on top of the lower shaft, with a bit of grease on the splines.  However, if you have to wriggle the leg flange through the opening before you can position it, putting the coupler on the end of the lower driveshaft may make it too long to get in easily, or at all.  In this case (and this is what we have to do) the coupler will have to go on the end of the upper driveshaft, which means you'll need to figure out a way to hold it from falling off the shaft.  We used a tiny bit of paper masking tape on the spline.  This isn't ideal, but the paper will shred and won't hurt the gears later.
• The flange‑bolts are stainless steel, threading into aluminum.  Add a bit of seawater and you've got a corrosion nightmare.  To mitigate this, coat the threads in an anti‑corrosion compound.  We use Tefgel for parts that we want to take apart later, or DuraLac for a bit of locking (recommend DuraLac for this application).  We tend not to use Loctite compounds, as they often provide too much locking and not enough corrosion resistance.  Have the bolts with their coated threads close by, as you'll need at least 2 of them quickly.

You should now be ready for reassembly.  Having 2‑3 people for this will help.  Lift the leg up into the hole in the hull, line it up correctly, fit the flange‑guides into the correct holes, and slide the leg up the guides.  Getting the driveshaft splines to mate can be tricky, but once you get the leg aligned correctly, push up gently while someone turns the propshaft gently back and forth until the splines mate and the leg slides up the last inch or 2.  Then, while holding the leg up (don't let it slip down!) have someone run a couple of the flange‑bolts in finger tight.  Then the leg can be let go, the guides removed, and the rest of the bolts screwed in.  Tighten them in star order, like a car wheel, bringing them snug first, and then tightening them up to their correct torque.

If you want to epoxy coat the leg, this would be a good time to do that.  See our sealing the leg with epoxy section above for instructions (even if you don't plan to use copper‑based antifouling paints, but just want to protect the leg).

Finally, slide the boot over the bulb at the bottom of the saildrive, up the leg, and fasten it in place.  We usually use a mastic like quick‑dry 5200 and then stainless steel strips along each side with screws into the hull.  See our saildrive boots section above for more.

Replacing the oil seal on the input shaft from the engine This, as they say, is a cow of a job, but when that seal starts leaking, it needs to be replaced.  For us, this happened to both of our saildrives at about 8300 hours.  We noticed the oil level in our header tank going down, and thick oil leaking out of the bottom of the bell‑housing between the engine and the saildrive.  On our port engine, this was accompanied by a grating noise like bearings trying to tear themselves apart whenever the engine was on (not even in gear).

Taking out that gear‑cluster to replace the seal means you should really replace the bearings as well.  You can order the seal (Yanmar #101158‑02220) and bearings (2, Yanmar #24141‑302060) from your favorite Yanmar dealer, but Yanmar doesn't actually make seals or bearings, and it's usually cheaper and easier to buy the generic parts (which are exactly the same as what Yanmar uses).  The seals are: 62x40x8 (those are mm for OD, ID, & width).  There are several bearing possibilities, but if you ask your bearing shop they can cross‑match them.  We used 2 Timken 30206M‑90KM1 bearings, and when we removed our original "Yanmar" bearings, we found they were actually Timken bearings with that exact number on them!

The first time we did this, we hauled Ocelot out of the water, but the 2 nd time there was no slip available so we did the job in the water.  The difficult part is that you need to support the engine and slide it forward about 8" (20cm).  For us, our engines are (mostly) under our aft beds, so we removed the cushions and built a wooden A‑frame to support a pair of chain‑hoists.  The varnished wood under our beds was slippery enough to slide the A‑frame around, even when it was supporting our 4JH2 engine.

This procedure is very similar for SD‑20, SD‑30, and SD‑31 sail‑drives.  Of course, if you have access to a sail‑drive service manual, that will show you more than I can here, and goes into more detail.  This is more of a thumbnail sketch, more to help you decide if you want to do the job yourself or get help.  It sounded pretty scary to us at first (Jon hates digging into gearboxes) but as usual, it turned out to be much easier once we got into it.  We had a pair of mechanics do essentially the whole job in Kudat (NE Borneo) the first time we had to do it.  The second time, we hired a mechanic to help, but he knew nothing about sail‑drives.  Jon gave all the directions, but Peter helped, drifted the bearings out, and he ran the hydraulic press to put the bearings back.

• Drain the saildrive oil.  If you're doing this in the water, the oil will fall out when you remove the gear‑cluster, and will make a bit of a mess, but that can be cleaned up later.
• Support the engine, especially at the back where it connects to the saildrive.  Small wedges are handy here.
• Support the saildrive by tying a pair of ropes to the foot and securing the ropes to the deck, forward of the saildrives, on each side of the hull.  The saildrive is only supported at the back, and you don't want it to fall forward (or sideways).
• Setup your engine lift/slide mechanism.  We used a quick‑&‑dirty wooden structure, with a pair of small chain‑hoists.
• Unbolt the 8 bolts around the bell‑housing, as well as anything else in the way of sliding the engine forward.  For the front of the engine this usually means where the engine‑mounts bolt to the hull, or where they bolt to the support legs, or removing the support legs.  On Ocelot we had to remove alternators as well.
• Gently take the weight off the engine supports with chain‑hoists, and slide the engine forward 8" (20cm).  You'll probably need to pry the bell‑housing and engine apart, as the bell housing sticks into the engine about 1/4" or 6mm.
• Reach inside the bell‑housing and remove the 8 long bolts holding it to the saildrive, and remove the bell‑housing completely.
• Remove the 4 bolts holding in the gear‑cluster and remove the cluster.  Make sure to notice where the hole is for the oil (top or bottom).  Don't damage the shims.
• On the sail‑drive end of the input shaft, bend down the locking tab and remove the nut.  It's a strange nut, and will probably have to be tapped around with a hammer and screwdriver.  If you can, building a socket to drive this nut will allow you to properly torque this nut when putting the gear‑cluster back together.
• Remove the bevel‑gear, and use hammers and wood or aluminum drifts to tap the bearings and seal out of the holder.  Several other shims and spacers will come out as well.  Make sure you know what order to put them back.
• Grease where the bearings will go.  Press (or possibly tap) the new bearings into place, making sure they're oriented the original direction.
• Reassemble the gears, shims, and spacers that were removed.  Slather everything liberally in grease.
• Tighten the nut at the end to 2.5‑3.5Kgm (20 foot‑lbs).  Since the nut is strange, you may have to estimate this.  The bearings should be tight but rotate easily.
• Since we're sure our gears have worn slightly, we decided to leave out one shim when reassembling.  The Service Manual gives better instructions on how to measure exactly how much shim you need, but we didn't have the resources (special tools, etc) that it called for.
• On SD30 and 31, the seal runs against a spacer block.  The inside of that block has an O‑ring that should be replaced.  The SD‑20 doesn't have this, as the seal runs directly on the shaft.
• Replace the seal, making sure you don't damage the inner lips
• Replace the gear cluster in the sail‑drive, making sure to put the lubrication hole as you found it (up or down - pinion shaft assemblies prior to number D/#0454 should be up).
• Tighten the bolts to 0.5‑.7Kg‑m or about 5 ft‑lbs.
• Replace the bell housing, tightening the bolts to 1.4‑1.6Kg‑m, or 10 ft‑lbs.
• Slide the engine back and mate it to the input shaft.  This can be tricky.  You may have to rotate the input shaft slightly for the gears to mate correctly.
• When the engine and bell housing are about 1/4" (6mm) apart, run the bolts in finger tight.
• Tighten the bolts in a crosswise fashion (one bolt, then its opposite partner, like a car wheel), a little bit at a time until they're snug and the bell housing has been pulled up against the engine.  Then bring them to their specified torque (1.4‑1.6Kg‑m, or 10 ft‑lbs).
• Secure the engine to its bearers, replacing whatever was removed earlier.
• Refill the sail‑drive with oil.

This took us about a day, or more precisely, 2 half‑days for each sail‑drive.  It looks long, but there's nothing really that complicated.  OK, a certified mechanic might shudder at the idea of putting a gearbox back together without measuring all sorts of clearances, but we decided that the sail‑drive was functioning pretty well before the seal let go, and nothing that we'd done was going to make that any worse.  So it should be as good as it was before, and probably a bit better because of the new bearings, even without futzing with all the shims (that we didn't have).

It turns out that nothing is really supporting that upper drive‑shaft except bearings, and those bearings aren't tight at all.  In fact, the whole job can be done with the boat in the water!  Although it's much less messy if you're hauled out and can drain the oil out of the saildrive first.

Yanmar's design has the bevel‑gear at the end of the (horizontal) input‑shaft mating to 2 bevel‑gears that ride on the vertical drive‑shaft.  These 2 are always spinning, in opposite directions, whenever the engine is running.  Between these 2 bevel‑gears is a small clutch that's splined to the drive‑shaft and can slide up or down to mate to either of the spinning bevel‑gears, thereby driving the shaft in either direction, forward or reverse.  On SD‑20, 30, and 31, this dog‑clutch engages with a bit of a bang, but it's very positive.  With later saildrives, Yanmar went to cone‑clutches, which apparently have a tendency to slip if not adjusted exactly right.

The bevel‑gears each have 3 bearings: a large outer bearing, and a pair of small needle‑bearings on the inside, between the gears and the shaft.  Without taking the saildrive out of the boat, or even disconnecting it from the engine, it's pretty easy to replace 5 of the 6 bearings, as well as the shaft and the dog‑clutch.  The large outer bearing around the lower bevel‑gear is trapped by the input shaft, and can't be removed until the input shaft is removed, but the inner needle‑bearings all come out when the shaft is lifted out.

As above, this procedure is very similar for SD‑20, SD‑30, and SD‑31 sail‑drives.  Of course, if you have access to a sail‑drive service manual, that will show you more than I can here, and goes into more detail.  This is more of a thumbnail sketch, to help you decide if you want to do the job yourself or get help.  It sounded pretty scary to us at first but it turned out to be really easy once I got into it.  I did all the work myself, with a bit of help to remove the old bearings from the outsides of the bevel‑gears.  Since I had them open, I decided to replace all the bearings I could.  Starboard was completely out of the boat, so I replaced all 6 bearings, but the dog‑clutch was fine.  On port, I couldn't replace the big lower bearing without a lot more work, so I only replaced 5 of the 6 bearings, as well as the dog‑clutch, as it had been slipping recently and was badly worn.

• Drain the sail‑drive oil.  If you're doing this in the water, some oil will drain out when you remove the shift mechanism.
• Disconnect the shift‑cable from the arm on the side of the sail‑drive.
• Remove the 4 bolts and remove the shift mechanism.
• Remove the 4 bolts on top of the sail‑drive, tap the top lightly, and remove it.  The upper (reversing) bevel‑gear and it's big outer bearing should come off as well.
• Grab the top of the drive‑shaft, wiggle it slightly so it lets go of the splined joiner at its bottom, and lift the upper drive‑shaft out, complete with dog‑clutch and needle‑bearings(!!)
• Remove the circlips at each end of the drive‑shaft, and remove the 2 pairs of needle‑bearings.  Keep track of the spacers.
• If you're going to replace the dog‑clutch, align it so the ears (dogs) are vertical, put a rag over it to catch flying parts, and push it to the end of the spline.  There are 2 ball‑bearings pushed out by a spring inside the dog‑clutch, and the rag is to catch those parts before they spring out of sight.  The balls should be aligned under the dogs of the clutch.

Reassembly is essentially reversing the above.  Slather everything in grease, of course.

Taking the big outer bearings off the bevel‑gears is a bit of a challenge, as they're obviously pressed on.  We held the bearings tightly in a big vice (squeeze it between 2 pieces of wood if you can) and used a pair of strong screwdrivers to apply pressure to separate the bearing from the gear.  While one person was doing that, the other was hammering on a socket placed over the end of the gear, to pound the gear out from the inside of the bearing.  It took some doing, but once we did the first one, the others went pretty easily.  Pressing the new bearings onto the bevel‑gears is straightforward if you have a hydraulic press, but the service manual also talks about tapping them together with a hammer.

The shifter is bronze, and is running in a groove in the dog‑clutch (which is steel).  The shifter can wear, which means the dog‑clutch may not fully engage the bevel‑gear, causing it to slip with a loud CLUNK every few seconds.  We replaced the shifters on both sides, since we had them out.  Replacing that shifter (Yanmar #196311‑06080) involves removing a tapered split‑pin to remove the arm from the shaft, and then removing the circlip that holds the shifter to the arm.  It's extremely important to take photos or make drawings of exactly how it was put together before taking it apart, as it's very easy to put it back together backwards, especially when putting the arm back on the shaft.  When replacing the shift mechanism back into the sail‑drive, make sure the shifter is sitting happily in the groove of the dog‑clutch before bolting everything back together.

Equipment Pages: Chart Downloads | Making mbTiles | KAP Files | OpenCPN | Turnbuckles | LEDs | Anchors | Sail Drives | Epoxy Work | AIS | Solar Panels | Watermakers | 3G Modems

Cruising Info: Up | General Cruising Info | Pacific Ocean Cruising | Indian Ocean Cruising | Provisioning Food & Fuel | Cruising Recipes

Top Level: Home | Destinations | Cruising Info | Underwater | Boat Guests | Ocelot | Sue | Jon | Amanda | Chris | Site Map | Make a Comment

Build Your Antares 44 Hybrid Build Your Antares 44 GT Antares Hybrid Details Optional Salon Layout GT and Hybrid Overview Hybrid Design Standard Features Specifications & Layout Performance Building the Antares Antares Design Concepts Electrical Systems Antares Line Management Ted Clements – The Legend Antares Owner Roundtables Owner Satisfaction Survey Antares University Owner Adventures Interior Photos Exterior Photos Featured Videos Antares doesn’t cut corners by installing sail-drives. The following key advantages of shaft drive propulsion for a global cruising yacht are an important decision factor for anyone considering such a voyage., low maintenance, easily serviced, best handling under power, balanced boat, watch this video if you are still unsure how hard it is to service a sail-drive, especially in remote places around the world., example photos of sail-drive maintenance. Automated page speed optimizations for fast site performance YANMAR Offers Largest Saildrive Line-up With Launch Of New SD15 Systems December 14, 2021 YANMAR Marine International has announced the market launch of custom solutions to pair with the new SD15 saildrive by ZF, strengthening its comprehensive range of products for the sailing sector. The new systems for larger vessels up to 65 feet enables more boat owners and boat builders to benefit from the combined technology and efficiencies of YANMAR’s higher power common rail engines and compatible saildrive models. Following the roll-out of the full range of easy-to-install and low-drag SD15 systems, YANMAR Marine International (YMI) will offer the largest line-up of saildrive solutions on the market to cover an engine range from 10 HP up to 150 HP. The new YANMAR SD15 saildrive , developed by partner ZF, is now available with the 4JH80 and 4JH110 engines, with the 4LV150-SD15 solution scheduled for launch in Q3 2022. Suitable for a wide range of applications, the latest YANMAR saildrive propulsion systems provide a new option for a vastly extended range of sailboats and catamarans, using engines from 80 HP upwards that have previously relied on conventional shaft drive lines. YANMAR’s electronically-controlled common rail engines pair seamlessly with the electric-controlled SD15 saildrive, providing clean installation and safe, smooth operation with hydraulic shifting. Experiencing increased comfort on-board for motoring while not under sail, the boat owner and crew will benefit from low vibration and noise, with low drag and excellent hydrodynamic efficiency improving performance and fuel consumption. The SD15 saildrive, which has a light aluminum casing treated to maximize corrosion resistance, is durable and reliable to ensure longer service intervals. YMI also offers custom motor mounts and brackets. Compact, easy and safe to install with no specific alignments required, the SD15 simplifies the production process and reduces costs for OEMs while also allowing increased design flexibility and improved serviceability. The SD15 matches with a Flexofold foldable propeller, renowned for its extremely low drag performance, for safe and efficient operation. For smaller sailboats, the YANMAR line-up of saildrives also includes the SD25 for engines from 10-30 HP (1GM and YM Series). The SD60 saildrive , with mechanical clutch, is custom engineered to match the 3JH5/4JH5 and 3JH40/4JH45/4JH57 Series from 40-80 HP. SD15 Saildrive Sign-up to receive the latest information about new products, services, and general updates. YANMAR’S extensive global service and parts network spans 130 countries and over 2100 locations. We’re here to help and would love to hear from you. Contact us with inquiries, comments, and feedback. Elige tu idioma Choisissez votre langue, velg ditt språk. Nederlandsk Portugisisk Välj ditt språk Portugisiska [ Sailing Range ] Home > Sailing Catamarans > Introducing the Leopard 46: The Evolution of Cruising Perfection The future of cruising. SPECIAL OFFER Fill out the form below to receive an instant download with the current offer. Build Your Boat Visit our Build Your Boat tool for Standard and Optional Equipment lists and Prices TECHNICAL FEATURES Specification at a glance, water capacity. 185 gal / 700 L fuel Capacity 182 gal / 690 L Displacement 37 939 lbs / 17 209 kg STANDARD ENGINES 2 x Yanmar 45 hp Diesel Waterline length 44 ft / 13.42 m length overall 47 ft 6 in / 14.48 m 5 ft 5 in / 1.65 m 24 ft 1 in / 7.35 m TOTAL SAIL AREA 1554 sqft / 144.4 sqm Load Carrying Capacity 12 952 lbs / 5875 kg Holding Tank Capacity 48 gal / 181 L All Leopard Catamarans are NMMA and CE Certified. GENERAL LAYOUT Salon & Cockpit Configurations Standard Configuration Standard size GRP cockpit table and standard dining table. Doors Closed Optional Configuration #1 Compact GRP cockpit table and standard dining table. Optional Configuration #2 Compact GRP cockpit table and salon coffee table. Optional Configuration #3 Standard size teak cockpit table and standard dining table. Optional Configuration #4 Standard size teak cockpit table and coffee table. VIRTUAL TOUR Explore the leopard 46. walkthrough & related videos Boat reviews, in the same range. NEED MORE INFORMATION? Evolving from 50 years of customer feedback, Leopard Catamarans has pooled their expertise with builders Robertson and Caine to design today’s Leopard range: spacious, robust, performance-driven blue water cruising catamarans. News & Events Our catamarans Sailing Range Power Range Leopard 40PC Leopard 46PC Leopard 53PC Download Brochure Terms of Privacy Owner Warranty Claim Form ©2024 Leopard Catamarans. All Rights Reserved Choose Language Visit our Popular Forums Monohull Sailboats Multihull Sailboats Powered Boats General Sailing Antares Yachts Fountaine Pajot Lagoon Catamarans Cruising Business Boat Classifieds General Classifieds Crew Positions Commercial Posts Vendor Spotlight Life Aboard a Boat Provisioning: Food & Drink Families, Kids, & Pets Afloat Recreation, Entertainment, & Fun Boat Ownership & Making a Living Liveaboard's Forum Seamanship, Navigation & Boat Handling Seamanship & Boat Handling Training, Licensing, & Certification Health, Safety, & Related Gear Rules of the Road, Regulations, & Red Tape Engineering & Systems Const. / Maint. / Refit Product / Service Reviews Electronics: Comms / AV Electrical: Batts / Gen / Solar Lithium Power Systems Engines & Propulsion Propellers & Drive Systems Plumbing / Fixtures Deck Hdw: Rigging / Sails Aux. Equipment & Dinghy Anchoring & Mooring Photo Categories Member Galleries Life Onboard Sailing in the Wind Power Boats Cruising Destinations Maint. & Boat Building Marine Life Scuba Diving & Divers General Photos Recent Photos Listing Categories African Cats view more » Crew Wanted Crew Available Enhance Your Account Meet the Mods Meet the Advisors Signup for The Daily Cruiser Email   > > Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on Cruisers Forums. 29-11-2008, 20:24   . Anything but saildrives which can give lots of problems. 29-11-2008, 20:51   Boat: st francis 44 mk II catamaran In sum, Saint Francis 50 has it as an option, Mooring/Leapord (same boat), 42 or 44 (now rebranded as the Anteries 44 in a new company). Were you looking around at a strictly owners , I'd look more at the 44 or the SF 50. 29-11-2008, 21:53   Boat: Privilege 39 Catamaran, Exit Only 39 has shaft drives. We now have about 4500 hours on each , we have changed our shaft only one time in 14 years, and we changed the cutlass bearing three times in 14 years. We have a flexible driversaver on each shaft, and they have never required replacement. Many of the catamarans had shaft drives, but you have to check each individually to find out whether it has a or a shaft drive. 29-11-2008, 23:29   29-11-2008, 23:32   Boat: Miura 31 30-11-2008, 06:21   Boat: Lagoon 37 30-11-2008, 06:35   Catamarans, both their SailCats and PowerCats, use shaft drive because they put the prop in a tunnel to protect it. To see this go to: 30-11-2008, 08:08   Boat: Endeavourcat Sailcat 44 30-11-2008, 09:49   Boat: PDQ 36 & Atlantic 42 30-11-2008, 09:52   41 had V drives with shafts, not sure about the 37. 30-11-2008, 11:31   Boat: Knysna 480 44 14-12-2008, 06:50   Boat: Hanse 371 Greetz, Koen 15-12-2008, 19:08   Boat: boat less ATM shaft drive 2GM20's (actually 18 HP's) No problems for that time. Now have a Tennant 47 with 30's & saildrives. Because of shaft drive the engines were under the bunks - so far from ideal. The were well back and rather difficult to get out. With sail drives the engines are out the back in their own engine "rooms" and easy to get at. However what one does to a sail drive that has failed will require more reading and prayer. More room to but still getting used to the setup. Only donw 660 hrs at the moment. Happy with the crowther & its shaft drives. Just means that engine is a lot further forward. Paul " 16-12-2008, 13:20   Boat: Catalac Catamaran 8M and 9M have shaft drives with the inboard option, 10M and 12M had sail drives 16-12-2008, 14:18   42 has wide open engine rooms, heck you could sunbathe in there! Use V drives. Access to the Tranny's is under the aft bunks, but the engines are wide open for access. Thread Tools Rate This Thread : Posting Rules post new threads post replies post attachments edit your posts is are code is are are are Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post melemakani Propellers & Drive Systems 6 22-12-2015 05:16 KestrelBuck Engines and Propulsion Systems 24 03-04-2011 23:14 RubyBishop Multihull Sailboats 24 07-09-2009 09:14 Primacat Multihull Sailboats 2 07-05-2009 05:48 Roy M Propellers & Drive Systems 5 24-07-2008 09:07 - - - - - - - Privacy Guaranteed - your email is never shared with anyone, opt out any time. How To Sail A Catamaran? (A Detailed Step-By-Step Guide) Are you an adventurous soul looking for an exciting way to explore the open waters? If so, then sailing a catamaran may just be the perfect activity for you! Catamarans are becoming increasingly popular for sailing due to their stability and speed, and when sailed correctly, can be a powerfully enjoyable experience. This guide will walk you through the basics of sailing a catamaran, from understanding the basics of sailing to handling the boat in different conditions and beyond. Here, we will cover the differences between a monohull and a catamaran, balancing the boat, basic sailing techniques, safety precautions, and tips for improving your catamaran sailing skills. So grab your gear and lets get sailing! Table of Contents Short Answer Sailing a catamaran is relatively straightforward. To get started, adjust the sails and rudder to the desired angles. Next, begin to move forward using the power of the wind and the force of the sails. While underway, make sure to constantly adjust the sails and rudder to maintain the desired course. Finally, when ready to stop, lower the sails and use the rudder to bring the catamaran to a stop. Understanding the Basics of Sailing Learning how to sail a catamaran can be an exciting and rewarding experience, but before you can take to the open waters you need to understand the basics of sailing. It is important to familiarize yourself with the fundamentals of sailing, such as understanding wind direction and how to use sails. Knowing the basics is essential for anyone wanting to sail a catamaran, as it will allow you to make informed decisions when sailing and will help keep you safe on the water. Understanding wind direction is a key part of sailing, as it will help you determine the best way to sail and how to use the sails to propel the boat in the desired direction. This can be done by looking at the flags or flags on other boats in the area, as well as by analyzing the behavior of the waves and the wind. Additionally, you should also learn the different points of sail, which are the directions a boat can sail relative to the wind. In addition to understanding wind direction, it is also important to understand how to use the sails of a catamaran. The sails of a catamaran are made up of two mainsails, which are the two large sails on either side of the boat, as well as a jib, which is a smaller sail located at the front. Knowing how to properly set the sails will allow you to make the most of the wind and propel the boat in the desired direction. Additionally, you should also learn how to trim the sails, as this will help you to optimize the boats performance in different wind conditions. Understanding the basics of sailing and how to use the sails of a catamaran is essential for anyone wanting to learn how to sail a catamaran. With the right knowledge and practice, sailing a catamaran can be an incredibly rewarding experience. The Differences Between a Monohull and a Catamaran When it comes to sailing a catamaran, it is important to understand the differences between a monohull and a catamaran. A monohull is a single-hulled boat with a keel that runs along the bottom of the boat. This helps keep the boat stable and upright in the water. A catamaran, on the other hand, has two hulls which are usually connected by a bridgedeck. This helps to create a more stable platform in the water and allows for more open space on the boat. There are some important differences between sailing a monohull and a catamaran. For example, a monohull requires more power to move through the water and is more limited in terms of maneuverability. On the other hand, a catamaran is more maneuverable and can be sailed in a variety of conditions. Additionally, a catamaran is inherently more stable in the water and can handle larger waves. Another important difference between a monohull and a catamaran is the way they are balanced. A monohull relies on its keel for stability and must be balanced evenly along the length of the boat. On the other hand, a catamaran relies on the two hulls to remain balanced and can be sailed with one hull slightly higher than the other. This allows for greater maneuverability and can help to reduce drag in the water. Finally, a catamaran is more efficient than a monohull and can be sailed at higher speeds for longer distances. This makes it ideal for longer trips and open-water sailing. Balancing the Boat When it comes to sailing a catamaran, one of the most important steps is learning how to balance the boat. This is because catamarans have two hulls, which means that they have twice the length and twice the width of a single-hull boat. This can make it more difficult to keep the boat upright and stable in the water. When sailing a catamaran, it is important to keep the hulls balanced so that the boat remains stable. The easiest way to do this is to make sure that the weight is evenly distributed between the two hulls. This can be done by ensuring that the sail is properly adjusted and that the passengers are sitting evenly between the two hulls. Additionally, it is important to keep an eye on the wind direction and make sure that the sails are adjusted accordingly. Furthermore, it is important to be aware of the boats center of gravity. This is the point at which the boats weight is evenly distributed between the two hulls. If the boat is not properly balanced, then it can become difficult to control, especially in rough conditions. It is important to be aware of the boats center of gravity at all times and adjust the weight distribution accordingly. Finally, it is important to remember that cats are less forgiving than other types of boats. This means that any errors in balance or sail trim can be exaggerated and lead to a dangerous situation. Therefore, it is important to practice balancing the boat in calm waters before venturing out in rougher conditions. By following these steps, sailing a catamaran should be a rewarding and enjoyable experience. With the right knowledge and practice, anyone can learn how to sail a catamaran safely and confidently. Handling the Boat in Different Conditions When sailing a catamaran, it is important to understand how to handle the boat in different conditions, such as in waves and strong winds. In wave conditions, the key is to keep the boat balanced. This means keeping the weight evenly distributed between the two hulls and using the sail to keep the boat stable. To do this, you can adjust the angle of the sail and the trim of the boat to match the waves. It is also important to keep an eye on the wind direction, as this can affect the boats stability. In strong winds, it is important to know how to properly balance the boat. This means keeping the weight evenly distributed between the two hulls and using the sails to keep the boat stable. You can adjust the trim of the sail and the angle of the sail to match the wind direction. It is also important to keep an eye on the wind speed, as this can affect how much power you need to use in the sails. Finally, it is important to know how to handle the boat in rough weather. This means using the sails to provide stability and keeping the boat balanced in rough conditions. You should also be prepared to use the outriggers, which are the stabilizers that run along the sides of the boat, to help keep the boat upright in strong winds. By familiarizing yourself with the basics of sailing and understanding how to handle the boat in different conditions, such as waves and strong winds, you can become a confident and skilled catamaran sailor. With practice and experience, you can explore the open water with confidence and enjoy the unique experience of sailing a catamaran. Basic Catamaran Sailing Techniques Sailing a catamaran can be a great way to explore the open water and experience the thrill of the sea. Before you set out, however, its important to understand the basics of sailing, such as wind direction and how to use sails. Once youve got the basics down, you can then start to learn the specifics of how to sail a catamaran. The most important thing to understand is the difference between a monohull and a catamaran. Catamarans have two hulls, which make them more stable than monohulls. This means you will need to learn how to properly balance the boat, as the two hulls can move independently of each other. You should also be aware of the wind and current when youre sailing, as these can affect the boats stability. When youre ready to start sailing, youll need to make sure that the sails are set properly and the boat is balanced correctly. To do this, youll need to be aware of the wind direction and adjust the sails accordingly. You should also make sure that the sails are trimmed properly, as this will help you to get the most out of the wind. In order to properly sail a catamaran, youll also need to understand how to handle the boat in different conditions. This includes handling the boat in waves, strong winds, and other challenging scenarios. To do this, youll need to be aware of the wind direction, the current, and the waves. You should also be aware of how the boat responds to different conditions, and be prepared to make adjustments as necessary. Once youve got the basics of sailing a catamaran down, you can start to explore the open water. So, dont be afraid to get out on the open water and learn the ins and outs of sailing a catamaran. With a bit of practice, youll soon be able to enjoy the thrill of the open water. Safety Precautions for Catamaran Sailing Before sailing a catamaran, it is important to take safety precautions to ensure your trip is safe and enjoyable. The first step in doing so is to make sure you have the right safety gear, such as a life jacket, flares, and a first-aid kit. It is also a good idea to check the weather forecast before departing so you can plan your route accordingly, and to make sure you have the right clothing for the conditions. Additionally, you should always carry a marine radio on board in case of an emergency. Lastly, make sure you inform someone of your intended route and estimated time of return, so they can come to your aid in the event of an emergency. By taking these safety precautions, you can enjoy your catamaran sailing experience to the fullest! Tips for Improving Your Catamaran Sailing Skills Improving your catamaran sailing skills is all about getting comfortable with the boat and understanding the different conditions youll be sailing in. Its important to start slowly and build your skill level gradually, as this will help you become a more confident and competent sailor. Here are some tips to get you started: 1. Learn the basics of sailing. Knowing the basics of sailing is essential before you start to learn how to sail a catamaran. Understand the basics of wind direction, how to use sails, and how the wind affects the boat. This will help you better understand the catamaran and how to maneuver it. 2. Familiarize yourself with the catamaran. Spend time familiarizing yourself with the catamaran and its components. Learn the differences between a monohull and a catamaran, such as the two hulls and how to properly balance the boat. You should also be aware of the boats capabilities and limitations. 3. Practice sailing in different conditions. Its important to practice sailing in different conditions, such as in waves and strong winds. This will help you become more comfortable with the boat and give you the experience to handle a variety of conditions. 4. Learn how to use the sails. Understanding how to use the sails will help you become a more efficient sailor and get the most out of your catamaran. Learn how to adjust the sails for different wind directions and how to use them to your advantage. 5. Understand the safety precautions. Before you start sailing, make sure you understand the safety precautions. This includes understanding the weather conditions and the safety equipment you need to have on board. By following these tips, youll be well on your way to becoming a more confident and competent catamaran sailor. Learning how to sail a catamaran is a great way to explore the world of sailing and open up a world of adventure on the open water. Final Thoughts Whether you’re a seasoned sailor or a novice, knowing how to sail a catamaran can be a great way to get out and explore the open waters. With the right knowledge and practice, you can become a confident and competent catamaran sailor. From understanding the basics of sailing, to learning the differences between a monohull and a catamaran, to mastering the techniques of catamaran sailing, this detailed step-by-step guide has all the information you need to become a successful catamaran sailor. So, what are you waiting for? Get out there and start your catamaran sailing journey today! James Frami At the age of 15, he and four other friends from his neighborhood constructed their first boat. He has been sailing for almost 30 years and has a wealth of knowledge that he wants to share with others. Recent Posts When Was Banana Boat Song Released? (HISTORICAL INSIGHTS) The "Banana Boat Song" was released in 1956 by Harry Belafonte. This calypso-style song, also known as "Day-O," became a huge hit and remains popular to this day for its catchy tune and upbeat... How to Make Banana Boat Smoothie King? (DELICIOUS RECIPE REVEALED) To make a Banana Boat Smoothie King smoothie at home, start by gathering the ingredients: a ripe banana, peanut butter, chocolate protein powder, almond milk, and ice. Blend the banana, a scoop of... JavaScript functionality for your browser has been deactivate. Please activate JavaScript so you can use all functions on this page. ‹ Return | › Products › Hybrid Drives Deep Blue Hybrid Deep blue is a fully integrated propulsion and energy management system, industrially engineered and customizable with modular components. the result is exceptional performance, compliance with international safety standards, and highly intuitive operability. Relaxation: no noise from the motor and only a little noise from the generator Environmental protection: use renewable forms of energy Independence: adequate energy on board, less need to head for a marina Convenience: simple joystick docking Simplicity: only one type of fuel – and less of it required System Overview of the Hybrid Drive System   1 Powerful electric motor: delivers between 25 and 100 kW of continuous power at 360 V. Available as inboard, outboard or saildrive 2 360 V high-capacity lithium battery system 3 12 V batteries: system power supply for starting up the high-voltage battery system and the diesel generator. The Deep Blue system manages these batteries autonomously 4 Efficient state-of-the-art diesel generator. Only runs when power requirements exceed the renewable sources and available battery capacity. Runs at optimum operating point feeding the 360 V system directly 5 Onshore power chargers: for charging the system from the AC mains supply in port 6 System management unit: the heart of the drive management system. This is where all the connections and system management functions for the drive train are concentrated 7 Onshore power connection: The large battery bank can be recharged with sufficient energy for the voyage when in port 8 System connection box: this is where the connections and system management functions are linked together to form a complete system and where other (convenience) functions for larger boats and yachts are integrated 9 AC inverter: provides independence from power conditions on land. Voltage and frequency can be freely configured 10 Isolated AC power system (120/240 V AC current, 50/60 Hz): equipment and power sockets are connected via an AC power distributor 11 Bi-directional DC/DC converter: connects the 24 V DC power system with the battery system, allowing the free transfer of power 12 24 V on-board batteries: act as a buffer and redundant power store for the entire on-board electrical system 13 Solar charge controller: converts power generated by photovoltaic into the right voltage for the on-board power system. Highly efficient thanks to MMP tracking 14 Photovoltaic modules: generate solar energy as additional power for the system 15 Electronic throttle: controls the performance of the electric motors. The twin remote throttle allows individual control of two drive trains 16 Display with onboard computer: allows the flexible management and modification of parameters controlling the usage patterns of the system System Components High-capacity lithium battery technology. Lithium-based batteries are the technology of choice for electric mobility applications. They store significantly more energy than all other batteries, they maintain a high current, they do not lose their charging capacity, they supply power reliably, and have no memory effect. They also have a much longer useful life than lead-based batteries. The benefits for customers: • High energy density • Lower costs • Long service life • Highest quality and safety standards Dimensions and preliminary specifications   Deep Blue Battery 40 Deep Blue Battery 80 Nominal voltage 352 V 348 V Chemistry Lithium-Ion, NMC LFP - Gr Safety IP67 ingress protection, venting, damping, IEC 62619 & IEC 62620 IP67 ingress protection, venting, damping, IEC 62619 & IEC 62620 Capacity (usable) 38 kWh 77.6 kWh Weight 284 kg 562 kg Dimensions 1660 x 964 x 174 mm 1800 x 853 x 236 mm Click here to learn more about battery technology Economical auxiliary power Third-party generators can be integrated into the Deep Blue system via the DC generator interface developed by Torqeedo. The converter generators eliminate the fixed ratio between rotational speed, power and voltage output. Integrated into the information, safety and energy management system of the Deep Blue Hybrid, the generators produce any combination of power and voltage as required, adopted to individual setting. Third-party generators can be integrated into the Deep Blue system via the DC generator interface developed by Torqeedo, providing long-range motoring and efficient backup power for serial hybrid systems. The converter generators eliminate the fixed ratio between rotational speed, power and voltage output. Integrated into the information, safety and energy management system of the Deep Blue Hybrid, the generators produce any combination of power and voltage as required, adopted to individual setttings. Technical Data   Panda 45 VS PMS Generator Continuous power 45 kW Max. rpm of diesel engine 2,800 Weight 595 kg Dimensions 1313 x 800 x 892 mm Benefits Low noise Typical application areas Perfect for ... • Torqeedo Deep Blue Hybrid drives with shaft power from 25 to 100 kW (equivalent to 40 – 160 HP) • Sailing yachts, ferries, water taxis, etc., with hull lengths from 40 to 110 feet (12 – 33 m) Highly flexible thanks to four operating modes The Deep Blue Advanced Energy Management System offers four ways of conveniently operating the hybrid system automatically: Generator off; completely electrical operation. The generator recharges the batteries. As soon as the maximum battery level is reached, the generator only produces the power currently required by the drive system, allowing the float mode to be activated. The generator starts automatically if the battery charge falls below the previously defined level. Electrical drive power, on-board power and charging power of the highest standard The Advanced Hybrid Control System for the Torqeedo Deep Blue Hybrid system controls the generator to optimum effect (single or twin installations). It provides a reliable supply of electricity for 360V DC boat drive systems as well as all other 110/230V AC and 24V DC power supply systems on board: Hybrid and charging power for the Torqeedo Deep Blue system • AC on-board power supply for galley, air conditioning, water maker and other electrical consumers on board (hotel loads) • Low-voltage DC power for lighting, radio, navigation, winches, etc. Always in control Deep Blue Hybrid offers intuitive operation presented on the multifunctional display, providing a complete overview of the entire system and access to all control functions. The software keeps an eye on everything and prevents errors like deep-discharging batteries. An easy-to-understand graphical user interface is available as either multihull or monohull and delivers complete, up-tothe- minute system visualisation. Premium throttles We’ve come to expect an intuitive way to operate our technical devices. We expect detailed information, nicely displayed and clearly arranged. We expect that the objects we use are both beautiful and functional. This is what spurred us to create the new Torqeedo throttle family and improved user interface for Deep Blue. Our premium throttles offer the right solution for every application, whether for sailboats or on motorboats – ergonomic, strong and functional. All premium throttles come with Bluetooth built in for simple integration of Torqeedo’s TorqTrac smartphone app. Hybrid Drive System and Integrated Energy Management Hybrid drive system. Powerful and silent electric drive systems allow manoeuvring and sailing at hull speed. High-performance batteries adapted from the automotive industry enable prolonged motor-cruising for up to 50+ nautical miles without use of a generator. Solar power generated on board and hydro-generated energy – the propeller rotates while boat is under sail – provide additional propulsion. Besides, the integrated generator provides sufficient energy to cover long distances, if required. The slowly rotating electric drives allow precise maneuvering and in combination with joystick docking makes putting out to sea and berthing as easy as pie. Integrated energy management The integrated management system of Deep Blue Hybrid makes it possible to use available power in any way you wish – for the powerful high-voltage drive system, for the 24 V on-board power supply or to operate equipment with 230 V AC current. Deep Blue Hybrid is designed in such a way that energy is always available where it's needed. The combination of energy generated from renewable sources and by the generator means that there is always sufficient power available. However, the generator does not need to run for as long. Clean and safe electricity can be used for all equipment and so it is no longer necessary to have propane or petrol on board. A tender can also be run electrically and can be charged from the Deep Blue Hybrid on-board power system. Professional Safety Professional safety for your sailing yacht. Particular attention should be paid to standards compliance and safety during the development of a hybrid drive system. During the years spent on developing the Deep Blue Hybrid system we followed safety concepts that, for example, are standard in the automotive industry – but which previously could not be found in powerful electric drive systems for electric sailing yachts. In addition, electrical drive systems for electric sailing yachts pose special challenges that are not relevant for other industries. In this respect, it is not enough to just follow the standard of other industries for high-voltage boat drives. As we are used to setting new standards, we have done so with regard to safety. Below you will find a number of examples of the Deep Blue Hybrid's unique safety concept. Isolation monitor: constantly monitors that the voltage from all 360 V components is completely isolated from the boat – not just for individual system components but for all of them. If damage is detected, e.g. to the cable insulation, the system will issue an alert. In the event of dangerous insulation failure, the system will be shut down. All components are waterproof: Components that were not specifically developed for boats are not always waterproof. All the components of a high-power system on a boat must be waterproof to guarantee safe operation. That is why all of our components are waterproofed. Automotive industry-level battery safety: The first lithium batteries for the marine industry with the advanced quality standards of the automotive sector are the result of Torqeedo's collaboration with established battery manufacturers. Integrating a battery into a drive system and the associated safety concept alone requires considerable effort that can only be achieved by working together with the battery manufacturer. Battery venting: In the unlikely event that the redundant safety mechanisms of the battery fail, the battery cells can reduce their temperature and pressure via a pressure valve. While batteries are installed in electric cars in such a way that they can discharge battery gases directly onto the road, on electric boats the gases must be channelled safely off the vessel. We developed the first safe venting system for boats for the Deep Blue System. Battery damping: All components on fast and seagoing boats are subject to constant high levels of shock that exceed shock levels on the road – in some cases over 12 g of acceleration force. The same holds true when trailering the boat. Since batteries and battery electronics are not designed for these constant impacts, they need their own damping system on boats (in addition to the damping mechanisms within the battery). Torqeedo is the only company in the world that provides this for maritime use. Benefits for Boatbuilders Custom-built solutions are often pursued in order to meet a user's requirements. These individual hybrid projects raise a number of difficulties: High-end components do not exist for the custom project. High-tech safe lithium batteries, for example, require an intensive design-in process in close cooperation with the battery manufacturer's research and development department. However, reputable high-voltage battery manufacturers do not supply their batteries for custom solutions that they are not familiar with and that have not been coordinated with them in detail. Creating an integrated hybrid system requires a comprehensive research and development project accompanied by many person-years in the field of development running to the tune of several million euros. These efforts are not undertaken for custom projects, leading to lower reliability and a lack of complex but important safety features (such as pilot lines). The system integrator has the statutory duty to ensure that the hybrid system complies with all the relevant and mandatory standards such as the Machinery Directive and the EMC Directive. Custom hybrid systems do not generally meet these standards. Since a boatbuilder is responsible for ensuring that the entire boat complies with standards, the installation of custom-built hybrid systems constitutes a serious risk for boatbuilders. Unlike custom-built hybrid systems, DEEP BLUE HYBRID addresses the requirements of environmentally aware customers, offering a turnkey solution that guarantees compliance with the relevant norms and standards. DEEP BLUE HYBRID was created in an extensive research and development project involving a large number of mechanical and electrical engineers over several years. The components were carefully selected and coordinated with an overall system. Essential inspections and certifications were performed at system level. High-end components such as hybrid batteries from the automotive industry were integrated into the system. Torqeedo assumes responsibility for the functionality and compliance with relevant standards for the whole system. DEEP BLUE HYBRID was developed on the basis of modular components. It allows flexibility and scalability without affecting system integration and reliability. DEEP BLUE HYBRID for electric ferrys, electric sailing yachts, electric catamarans & electric water taxis. If we have awakened your interest in our products we would be pleased to send you more detailed information. Simply enter your details in the contact form below and we will get in touch with shortly. 39 Vital Tips, How To Sail a Catamaran!(For Beginners, The Fun and Safe Way!) As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases. We may also earn commissions if you purchase products from other retailers after clicking on a link from our site. In this article, I list many of the things that I have found significant about sailing a catamaran. The list is mainly aimed towards sailors transitioning from monohulls, but new sailors without prior experience will benefit from reading this before leaving harbor! So what do you need to know before setting off in a Catamaran? Catamarans Don’t Heel Since catamarans have two hulls, the boat won’t heel over to its side while sailing; this means a ton of things! In part, it means that your ride will be faster, safer, more comfortable, etc. Read this  to understand the difference between monohulls (aka regular sailboats) and catamarans. You will be faster on a Catamaran. Since a catamaran has two hulls, it has less volume of the boat below the surface; this means less drag and higher speeds. Want to know why cats are faster than other boats? Maneuverability inside the Marina will be much more pleasant. Although a catamaran will be more affected by winds due to its immense size, you can maneuver it as you would with a battle tank since it has two engines. That is doing a 360 turn without any movement forward or backward. This is an excellent way to enter and exit a marina. Fuel costs will decrease. Low drag means less energy needed to propel the boat; this is also true when running the engines. Compared to a monohull, the catamaran will draw less fuel. Check out this article  to understand why and how you can save fuel and instead spend your money on fun things! If you get knocked over, you won’t get back up again (but at least you won’t sink!) Catamarans have a terrible reputation for flipping over or capsizing as it is known to the people of the water. There is not much data to support that claim, and if you look at the available data, you would actually see that catamarans, in many ways, are safer than boats with only one hull. Are catamarans safer than other sailboats? Catamarans are wider and, therefore, safer. Is it easier to push something to its side if it has a wide or a small base? Yepp exactly, the cat has a broad base and is, therefore, more stable (the short and easy explanation). There are numerous other factors to consider but a wider base means better stability! Sign up for my mailing list to find out when my article on catamaran stability goes online Catamarans will get you the ladies(or men, or cats, or whatever) There is nothing more accurate on this list than the fact that a catamaran will get you more company, of the sort you prefer, than a monohull. The sailing is smoother; the space is plentiful, it’s basically made for having friends hanging out on the trampolines. Speaking of trampolines, some myths say that they are made to reduce water onboard and enhance safety, but everybody really knows it’s a place for beautiful times with great friends ;)! What are  trampolines  you say? Because of the shallow draft, you can go places where monohulls can’t If you are going to the Bahamas (or any other place where the water isn’t very deep), and believe me, you definitely want, then a shallow draft is almost as good of a friend as a cold beer on a sunny day. A shallow draft means that your boat won’t be sticking very deep into the water, which significantly enhances the number of places you can explore, and it also makes it possible to get very close to the beach. Be prepared to spend your dollars. “A boat is a hole in the water where you throw your money” is what a wise friend of mine once told me in a marina in the Miami River. Little did I know at the time how true that statement was to become. And if you’re on a catamaran… you will have two engines, larger sails, more surface area, more everything, and more everything means that more things will break and more items will have to be paid for BUT! it also means more fun! Finding a place to lift your cat out of the water might be trickier than you thought. Unless you are on a smaller cat, such as the Gemini Legacy 35, you won’t be able to fit in a standard slip, and getting hauled up out of the water might not be possible everywhere. Be prepared to pay a little extra, and make sure you ask before you! In contrary to many beliefs, cats can be sailed single-handed. Another myth is that catamarans are harder to sail than their monohull counterpart; this is simply not true in a general sense. If the boat is set up for shorthanded sailing, it will most certainly be easier to sail than its heeling and leaning sister ship, the monohull. If you are interested in the skills needed to handle a large cruising catamaran I think you should check out my recommended books here. No more sailing close to the wind Since a cat doesn’t have a colossal keel, it tends to move sideways when sailing close to the point of wind. This means more drag, less transfer of movement in the direction of travel, and a less comfortable trip. Usually, a cat needs to sail more of the wind than a monohull, Downwind is your new best friend. But on the other hand, going downwind or running downwind is, together with humans, your dog and red wine, your new best friend. This is where the catamaran will show its true potential. It’s fast, smooth, and can take you around the world! Sailing around the world. Unless you are setting a world record, you will probably take the westward route around the globe. Sailing west means traveling with the prevailing winds and, you guessed it, perfect for a catamaran. Interested in sailing around the world? You have friends? Bring all of them! Maybe not all, but many catamarans can fit many people; 6-10 people is not uncommon. Most of the space is on deck, but since there are two hulls, there are usually 2-4 berths fitting 4-8 people sleeping! That’s a lot of friends, family, cats, or whomever you would want to bring. Are you used to monohulls? Then you need to update your storm tactics! Often, the boat will survive more hardship than the crew; it has happened more than once that a ship will be found only to have lost its team somewhere in the middle of the ocean. A boat is only as good as its captain allows it to become; with poor sailing skills comes danger, and handling a catamaran IS different than handling another type of boat. Ensure you update your skillset, especially those considering rough weather, so that they are relevant when transitioning to a different kind of vessel! Full speed with double engines Exactly how fast you will be able to travel is, of course, dependent upon many factors. But something you can rely on is that more power equals higher speeds; in most catamarans, they employ two engines! If you want to see a table of examples comparing sailing with one engine and two engines,  check this out. Hate swinging around on anchor? You better up your bridle-game A well-balanced bridle will make the cat stay stable towards the wind; a poorly balanced bridle will tend to do a pendulum motion where the waves might push it one way only for the wind to push it back. Want to better understand  how a bridle work and how to make one? Don’t stop before the beach; go all the way upon it. Sailing in the Caribbean, we could often find ourselves wanting to explore a deserted island. We could either throw in the dingy or swim to shore; with a catamaran, you have a third option: “beach” it. Beaching a catamaran means taking it all the way up to the shoreline so you can step off onto a beautiful beach without even getting your toes wet! Check this  out to understand what beaching a catamaran is like. The cat is enormous; why not live on it! A monohull’s size is usually what takes the fun and comfort out of the vacation, but with more space and your own berth/room, the ability to stay comfortably for more extended periods increases. You might even have a hard time to get people of your boat 😉 How to sail faster upwind than a longer monohull Yes, it is usually true that a mono can go closer to the wind than your average cat; this means a shorter distance from point A to point B if traveling directly towards the wind. But, and its a big but (one T) catamarans on average are faster, that means even though they might have to travel a longer distance, they will usually show up at the destination faster than its mono counterpart. Especially if we are talking longer distances, let’s say around the world or Atlantic crossings, then there is no discussion over which is the fastest. Check this list of catamaran speeds to learn more . No more merry-go-round while at anchor One of the things I hated the most when living and sailing on a monohull was getting seasick when not even sailing. The wind pushing you one way and the waves the other makes for an incredibly potent mix of sea-sickness. On a cat, that’s not really an issue; yes, it will swing around a little, it might even swing a little extra since it catches a lot of wind, but it is not going to roll! Which is a huge deal! How to become a better sailor Everybody says that to become a good sailor, you must get out there earn your experience, but without the correct feedback and conclusions, you might be at risk of sub optimizing your skillset. This means that unless you bring someone very experienced, you might create habits that only work under the circumstances you have practiced, that is, calm weather close to shore. What you need is someone to tell you, “that works today, but it will get you into trouble in X and Y situations,” those tips are vital! Get the opinion of someone you trust, whether it’s online or an actual person tagging along! The American sailing association has a pretty cool book about handling large catamarans, check it out here. Sailing single-handed Catamarans, when set up correctly, can be sailed single-handed or shorthanded. Some of the changes you’ll have to make include; Get an autopilot Make sure your lines go all the way to the cockpit, so you don’t have to leave your GPS, radar, etc. Remove things that are obstructing your view; there are only two eyes on board! Ensure you have enough physical power to handle the winches, sail, etc., if you don’t? Hit the gym; if that doesn’t work, buy electric winches. Practice sailing single-handed(but have a passive crew tag along for safety) and figure out what else you need. More info on how to sail single-handed Anchoring your cat at sea One way to do this is to use a sea anchor, basically a parachute in the water that breaks your movements.  more on sea anchors here The sea depth in the middle of an ocean can be thousands of meters, so bringing that much anchor chain doesn’t really work. What you would do is drift under control, that is, situating the boat in a comfortable position, and that doesn’t make you drift too much in the wrong direction. Picking up a mooring ball This is a common question, but I’m not sure why it intimidates people as much as it does. It is probably the easiest way to anchor of them all. Basically, what you want to do is; Prepare your bridle Head into the wind slowly, approach the ball on the same side of the centerline as your friend, who will later pick it up. Take into consideration the drift occurring by the wind and current. Use a boathook, stick, or whatever to pick up the line from the mooring ball and attach it to the center of your bridle. Put the boat in reverse, give it a little throttle, and tension the lines so that you can trust your anchoring Voila, you’ve picked up your first mooring ball! How to make your useless friend useful onboard Turn that useless friend into and a vital asset! The best way to prepare for troublesome situations is to think through what problems may happen and what you want to do when it happens. What you do is you bring that diamond in the rough that is your friend onboard, you discuss a few situations, you tell her what you want her to do and when. Then you practice, not full-on, but you will show your friend how things are done; let’s say you want help with anchoring. Do a walkthrough of the process where you let your, now a little bit shinier diamond, handle the ropes and respond to commands. Offer honest and concrete feedback and let them succeed in the task. Once you feel comfortable with your friend’s actions, you have accomplished two things, you have taught your friend a new skill, and you have acquired a crewmember! Glorious! Bring your real best friend, the dog (or cat, for you weirdos 😉 ) Heeling is not only tough on us humans! On a cat (the boat), a cat(the animal) can move around more safely, and there is a smaller chance of it falling off. Many chose to keep the pet inside the boat, but I really do believe that your pets should also be able to enjoy the beautiful sailing and weather! Prepare to see nothing. I don’t mean beautiful islands and tropical beaches; you’ll see plenty of that! I mean, seeing where you are going, a cat has a lot of stuff in front of you(such as that glorious interior space), so if you’re used to your good old monohull, you might find it difficult at first to get at a good view of where you’re going. Especially when docking or in a marina. Catamaran Sailing Techniques: Everything you need to know – Yachting World The wind will give you a hard time. A catamaran is basically a big box with floating sleds; boxes are not famous for aerodynamics. This box-shaped floater will catch a lot of wind and will make slow speed movements, such as docking, a little bit trickier. To the rescue comes double engines with separate controls making it possible to do 360 turns on the spot and super small unballasted keels called centerboards. Spring of the dock will be your new way of life. Higher on the list, we looked at the box-shaped floating thing that is a catamaran and how much the wind affects it. This is also true when exiting a dock; all that force will make it impossible to head out if the wind blows towards the dock. Spring off the dock to the rescue! This method uses simple physics of leverage to make your stern move away from the dock even though the wind and waves are pushing you back in. Sign up to my  mailing list  for information on when that article is published! Stop turning the wheel and start using your throttles. The downside of a shallow draft is that it won’t have much that stops you from moving sideways with the wind; the upside of having a catamaran is that you have two engines! When moving at slow speeds, let’s say docking, you dont have much “grip” on the water and not much water passing around the rudders. This makes handling a catamaran in the same way as a monohull very difficult. Instead, the preferred method is to put the rudder at center position and turn by offsetting the throttle; higher throttle on your right engine will make you go left and vice versa. This allows for 360 spins and precis handling in tight spaces! Pretty neat, I would say. Get used to that hellish banging noise! Bridge deck clearance is a real thing on a catamaran, and if you’re on a smaller sized or just poorly built, you’ll get more banging than your teenaged self ever wished for(pun intended)! So bridge deck clearance is the distance between the water and the lowest part of the boat between the hulls. This is the part where the water will pass between the hulls, and under some circumstances, let’s say big enough waves, water will crash and hit the underside—making not only a lot of noise but also vibrations throughout the boat. Bring all that crap that you thought you would have to leave on land. “sailing is living the simple life and bringing only what you need,” someone said to me once; screw that! 🙂 On a cat, there is so much space that you’ll be able to bring almost anything that you want and need. People bring everything from scuba gear(including a system to fill up the oxygen tanks) to washing machines! Even though I consider myself to be a simple man when it comes to stuff (i live in a van, as some of you know 😉 ) I can totally understand the beauty of bringing a lot of creature comfort on board. Shallow draft, yes, but how deep is the water, visual checks. Before sailing the Bahamas, I would hear of stories almost every day of boats that went aground and either got stuck or wrecked their ships. I was terrified but once underway and a couple of months in, I couldn’t really understand how it could happen. So I started looking into the information about different accidents that I could find, and something struck me, common sense isn’t that common… I realized that many sailors trusted their GPS or maps more than they trust their own eyes. I could easily understand that the people who went aground were the ones that did not do visual checks when entering or moving through a shallow section. When storms roll in, the seafloor, especially if made of sand, shifts, and depths, is rarely accurate on a map, and if your sailing with only a few feet to spare, you better keep an eye out! If monohulls give you feedback like your mom at family dinner, then a catamaran is your dead budgie. Maybe that title is a bit of a stretch and only applies to my family; if so, sorry about that, let’s carry on! So when the wind hits the sails on a monohull, it leans to the side, everybody gets seasick, and you want to go home, that is not all bad! That same feeling also gives the captain a sensation of how much force is acted upon the sails, something vital if you want to stay afloat. The issue with a catamaran is that it does not offer feedback to the helm in the same manner; there is nothing dangerous about it; it is just different. The problem occurs when you expect feedback in the shape of leaning before you start reefing. If you wait for that, you’ll soon find yourself in trouble!  The easiest and safest way is to use a “wind speed rule of thumb,” basically a standard operating procedure for  putting the reefs in based on apparent wind. Once the wind speed hits X m/s, you put your first reef in; when the speed hits Y m/s, you put the next reef in, and so on. See a squall coming? Reef early! A gust of wind? Head down, not up! I know, I know, I compare monohulls and cats all the time… and yes, here’s one more comparison! Some of you single-hull-people out there might be tempted to head upwind if there’s a gust hitting the sails, I would rethink that strategy and recommend you train your reactions to do the opposite!  Heading upwind(on a cat) during a gust will increase the risk of capsizing (flipping over is extremely rare, but if you’re ever going to pull it off, here’s your chance!). Gybe like Barry White would I’m not sure we see the same things here, but what I’m trying to say is that you want to take it nice and smooth on the transition from one side to the other. Tighten in the sheet, pull the mainsail to the center and slowly pass from one side to the other; this will decrease the wear and tear and reduce the risk of injuries from the beam swinging like a  Owner of CatamaranFreedom.com. A minimalist that has lived in a caravan in Sweden, 35ft Monohull in the Bahamas, and right now in his self-built Van. He just started the next adventure, to circumnavigate the world on a Catamaran! Leave a Reply Cancel reply Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked * Save my name and email in this browser for the next time I comment. Recent Posts Must-Have Boat Gear for Catamaran Sailors! Sailing is probably the most gear-intensive activity I've ever done; there are so many decisions to be made about what gear to buy now, for tomorrow, and what to definitely never buy. The gear on... 6 Best Trailerable Trimarans For Bluewater and Coastal Sailing Having a boat costs a lot of money, even when you are not using it, marina fees, etc. And once it is in the water most sailors never go very far from their "home marina" and sailing will be somewhat... Top Destinations Los Angeles Myrtle Beach New Orleans New York City Philadelphia San Francisco St Augustine Washington DC Other Destinations Middle East Central America South America Sunset Dolphin Catamaran Sail. Save up to $5.00 with Coupon Code, Promo Code Save 10% off orders over $100. Sail into the sunset aboard the Privateer Catamaran! This exhilarating sail along the Gulf of Mexico offers a great opportunity to relax and leave your worries behind. Listen to tropical music and enjoy a complimentary glass of wine, Sangria, cold beer, or a non-alcoholic beverage aboard Panama City Beach’s best sunset cruise. Don't forget to relax on the deck and look for Flipper and his friends! Activity Highlights Cruise the beautiful waters of the Grand Lagoon at sunset Encounter wild dolphins in their natural habitat Enjoy one complimentary beverage and cash bar for additional refreshments Relaxing live tropical music onboard on Wednesdays and Saturdays This tour is popular and often sells out in advance. Save time and money! Buy tickets now to guarantee your spot! Available: Between 4:30 - 6:30 PM. Departure times vary depending on time of sunset. View available departure times upon booking. Duration: 2.0 hours Location: 4114 Jan Cooley Dr, Panama City Beach, FL 32408, USA SAVE UP TO $5.00 OFF SUNSET DOLPHIN CATAMARAN SAIL! Guarantee your spot and Save AN ADDITIONAL 10% OFF Orders Over $100. No Promo Code required. You will see your discount applied.at check-out.  Privacy Policy Terms & Conditions Accessibility Experiencing Problems? Subscribe To Our Newsletter Advertise With Us! Call today on:01202 621631 For Sonic Spares call: 0208 3377543 Product Range Over 40 years experience Sonic Sterndrives & Saildrive Parts Workshop & CNC Machining Facilities Large range of Propellers in stock You are here:   Sterndrives and Saildrives Parts Sonic Type 2 Sonic Type 2 Catamaran Drive SONIC DRIVES ARE NO LONGER AVAILABLE - SPARE PARTS ONLY Similar to the SONIC 70 and available in lengths of 800, 900, 1000 and 1200 mm. Maximum input torque 15kg/mtr. The catamaran drives are normally mounted from the Bridge Deck or in a pod slung beneath - all have lifting feature of 70 and 100 drive. DIRECT Drive Designed in the form of direct drive system to allow inboard engines to use their existing gearboxes. Facilities for charging ship’s batteries with engine whilst having outdrive leg raised when under sail. Reduced drag with slimmer underwater shape above cavitation plate. Astern lock either automatic or manual. cable operated. Increased angle of leg lift to 68° Simple 6 bolt fixing. Template supplied Engine/gearbox, input rotation LH or RH Steerable, affords extra manoeuvrability to your cat. 16” Diameter propeller for the thrust you need Marine grade alloy casing Nickel alloy gears Stainless steel fastners Double oil seals (propshaft) Sacrificial anode, provisio Catalogue & Advice Downloads 334 IMAGES Deep Blue Saildrive Shaft Drives Catamaran Drives Types Catamaran The Moorings 4800 Sail Catamaran HEMISPHERE VIDEO Antares Catamaran Sail Fish Proboat Apache Catamaran EP RTR Catamaran Boating and Snorkeling Nassau, Bahamas 2015 Leopard 40 Catamaran Hull Video after new bottom paint & Sail drive service By: Ian Van Tuyl crazy ruff rider regatta 2012 hobie cat movie & original song Eps 38 Cheap 26ft sailboat mini renovation COMMENTS Should I Buy a Catamaran with Saildrives? A hot topic these days is that of the buyer of a straight shaft engine, or the other guy who would like a saildrive unit instead, on his catamaran. Traditionally, there are more straight shaft drive monohulls and more catamaran's built with saildrives today. This rule tends to go out the window on vessel's over 50 feet. Driving and Docking a Catamaran: Guide for Boaters Sail-powered catamarans especially benefit from their ability to harness wind, but this can make them tricky to drive in strong winds when compared to monohulls. Key Differences in Driving a Catamaran. Speed and Efficiency: Catamarans glide across the water with minimal drag, making them more efficient and often faster than their monohull ... Saildrives or Straight Shafts? Which Is Best for Me? A good example of this is the evolution of the Leopard 47 (a straight shaft boat) to the far superior sailing Morelli and Melvin designed Leopard 46 (a sail drive boat.) Sail drives offer more horsepower at the prop. Sail Drive Negatives. Sail drives generally cost more to replace than shafts. The typical drive leg for a 40 to 50 foot cat is ... All About Saildrives Photo courtesy Volvo Penta. The flexibility of the saildrive configuration on a new hull design is compelling. The fact that the engine and drive system form essentially a single unit eases installation, and by design can keep weight "out of the ends," which is always desirable with sailboats. With the saildrive, the weight of a shaft ... Catamaran Drives Types A somewhat unique option is the Sillette Sonic drive (common on Gemini 105 catamarans) which is a type of saildrive. It allows using an inboard engine with an outboard drive leg exterior to the boat. The drive leg can be raised while under sail, providing the same no drag advantage as outboards, while having the engine inboard which protects it ... Sail And Power Catamarans: Developing A 'Catitude' Here are some handling tips that apply to handling both sail and power catamarans. Don't Ding The Dock. When there's no wind, bigger sailcats also have an engine, which is needed in each hull. They aren't powered to drive as fast, but the principles are the same. Keep in mind, boats and conditions are varied, so we can only give examples here. Saildrive vs. Shaft Drive Whether you are buying a monohull or catamaran, understanding the difference between shaft drives and saildrives is important! Sail Drives Sail Drives. Saildrives are often used on catamarans as they result in a very compact drive system. Multihulls have narrow hulls, so there's not enough room to walk around an engine, as there is on most monohulls. So a catamaran's engines are usually under the aft bunks, which usually doesn't leave much room for a gearbox, propeller shaft ... Shaft Drives A shaft drive propulsion system is far superior, especially for a global cruising yacht. While a sail drive installation of a compact unit of engine and drive train offers some advantages for convenient and relatively inexpensive installation by the builder, the advantages of a shaft drive are critical for a true blue-water global cruising catamaran. Sail Catamaran boats for sale Find Sail Catamaran boats for sale in your area & across the world on YachtWorld. Offering the best selection of boats to choose from. ... (960) Sail Drive (960) Stern Drive (13) Stern Drive (13) Surface Drive (1) Surface Drive (1) V-drive (18) V-drive (18) Fuel. fuel-diesel. Diesel. fuel-electric. Electric. fuel-other. Other. fuel-gas. Petrol ... YANMAR Offers Largest Saildrive Line-up With Launch Of New SD15 Systems The new YANMAR SD15 saildrive, developed by partner ZF, is now available with the 4JH80 and 4JH110 engines, with the 4LV150-SD15 solution scheduled for launch in Q3 2022.. Suitable for a wide range of applications, the latest YANMAR saildrive propulsion systems provide a new option for a vastly extended range of sailboats and catamarans, using engines from 80 HP upwards that have previously ... Leopard 46 The new Leopard 46 sailing catamaran represent a significant upgrade from its predecessor, the Leopard 45. Building upon the successful DNA of Leopard catamarans, this new model offers a spacious, robust, and high-performing cruising experience. ... Same assemblyas sail drive. Battery Pack. EFFICIENT BATTERIES - High-speed lithium iron ... 9 Safest Catamarans For Cruising, Circumnavigation and Why! The safest cruising catamarans offer a good beam to length ratio, sail fast, and are over 42ft. These include the Manta 42, the Lagoon 450F, and the Catana 44. They are stable, waterproof, easy to handle in stormy weather, and feature a sturdy design. When boarding a boat, you expect to get to your destination safely, and with your bluewater ... Any Catamarans with Shaft Drives, Not Saildrives ? Owned Crowther 33 for 5 yrs. Equipped with pair of Yanmar shaft drive 2GM20's (actually 18 HP's) No problems for that time. Now have a Tennant 47 with 3GM 30's & saildrives. Because of shaft drive the engines were under the bunks - so far from ideal. The seals were well back and rather difficult to get out. With sail drives the engines are out the back in their own engine "rooms" and easy to ... Sunreef 60: A Power Catamaran with Pod Drives The popularity of pod drives has been on the rise for years, as more boat owners have left struts and shafts behind for these steerable drive units. But the love affair is one that's been enjoyed primarily by owners of monohulls. Sunreef Yachts of Poland recently broke new ground by powering its 60-foot power catamaran with Volvo Penta's IPS800 pod drives, and the installation has been so ... How To Sail A Catamaran? (A Detailed Step-By-Step Guide) Short Answer. Sailing a catamaran is relatively straightforward. To get started, adjust the sails and rudder to the desired angles. Next, begin to move forward using the power of the wind and the force of the sails. While underway, make sure to constantly adjust the sails and rudder to maintain the desired course. Deep Blue hybrid drives for sailing yachts & catamarans from ... Powerful electric motor: delivers between 25 and 100 kW of continuous power at 360 V. Available as inboard, outboard or saildrive. 2. 360 V high-capacity lithium battery system. 3. 12 V batteries: system power supply for starting up the high-voltage battery system and the diesel generator. The Deep Blue system manages these batteries autonomously. How To Sail a Small Catamaran (Complete Guide) The point of sail defines the direction of the wind relative to your cat. With the right point of sail, you will be in a position to sail your catamaran smoothly. The point of sail differs depending on the angle of your cat from the wind. The different points of sail include: Running: In a running point of sail, the wind blows behind your back ... 39 Vital Tips, How To Sail a Catamaran! (For Beginners, The Fun and Catamaran Sailing Techniques: Everything you need to know - Yachting World. The wind will give you a hard time. A catamaran is basically a big box with floating sleds; boxes are not famous for aerodynamics. This box-shaped floater will catch a lot of wind and will make slow speed movements, such as docking, a little bit trickier. HH44- Innovative, Immaculate and Incomparable The HH44-SC integrates the very latest in race boat technology but remains equally as comfortable as a family cruiser. This is a "no-compromise-boat" with C-shaped carbon daggerboards, a carbon rig, a painted hull finish, expanded solar array and EcoDrive as standard equipment. Contact our sales team to receive detailed specifications. Sunset Catamaran Sail $5.00 Off Coupon Code, Promo Code Save time and money! Buy tickets now to guarantee your spot! Available: Between 4:30 - 6:30 PM. Departure times vary depending on time of sunset. View available departure times upon booking. Duration: 2.0 hours. Location: 4114 Jan Cooley Dr, Panama City Beach, FL 32408, USA. SAVE UP TO $5.00 OFF SUNSET DOLPHIN CATAMARAN SAIL! Sonic Type 2 Catamaran Drive Sonic Type 2. SONIC TRANSMISSION UNITS are designed with service in mind. The rugged, but well engineered construction enables complete overhauls to be carried out with minimum tools, which is a facility not always possible with other "mass produced" drives. 6-50 bhp Petrol. 6-37 bhp Diesel. THE 10 BEST Moscow Boat Rides & Cruises Set sail on your destination's top-rated boat tours and cruises. Whether it's an entertaining and informative boat tour or a relaxing sunset dinner cruise, these are the best Moscow cruises around. Looking for something more adventurous? Check out our list of must-do water activities in Moscow. See reviews and photos of boat tours & water sports in Moscow on Tripadvisor. catamaran gulet motorboat powerboat riverboat trimaran yacht