rolex oyster perpetual yacht master ii regatta chronograph

MasterHorologer

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master II

Rolex is introducing the new Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master II, its unique regatta chronograph dedicated to both yachting enthusiasts and experienced sailors.

The Yacht-Master II is equipped with a new dial, and new hands that are characteristic of Rolex Professional models, enhancing legibility and sharpening its aesthetic appeal. The dial now features a triangular hour marker at 12 o’clock and a rectangular hour marker at 6 o’clock for more intuitive reading of the watch. A luminescent disc on the hour hand clearly distinguishes it from the minute hand.

This configuration is available for all Yacht-Master II models in 904L steel, the Everose Rolesor version (combining 904L steel and 18 ct Everose gold), in 18 ct yellow gold and in 18 ct white gold.

Like all Rolex watches, the new Yacht-Master II carries the Superlative Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015, which ensures singular performance on the wrist.

The Yacht-Master II, a Professional regatta watch created in 2007, features an exclusive function developed by Rolex: a programmable countdown with a mechanical memory that can be synchronized on the fly, a function that responds ideally to the need for precise timing during the crucial starting sequence of a regatta.

Although technically complex, it is essentially very simple to use: the countdown programming is accessed, and locked, via the rotatable Ring Command bezel, an innovative interface between bezel and movement developed by Rolex.

The Yacht-Master II’s countdown can be programmed for a duration of between 10 and 1 minutes. The programming is memorized by the mechanism so that at a reset it returns to the previous setting. Once launched, the countdown can be synchronized on the fly to match the official race countdown.

The Yacht-Master II’s Oyster case, guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet), is a paragon of robustness. Its characteristically shaped middle case is crafted from a solid block of 18 ct gold or particularly corrosion-resistant 904L steel. Its fluted case back is hermetically screwed down with a special tool that allows only Rolex watchmakers to access the movement.

The winding crown is protected by a crown guard that is an integral part of the middle case. Fitted with the Triplock triple waterproofness system, the crown screws down securely against the case, providing watertight security akin to a submarine’s hatch. The crystal is made of virtually scratchproof sapphire. The waterproof Oyster case provides optimum protection for the Yacht-Master II’s high-precision movement.

The Yacht-Master II is equipped with calibre 4161, a self-winding mechanical chronograph movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. Its architecture, manufacturing quality and innovative features make it singularly precise and reliable. This abundance of Rolex technology, the result of over 35,000 hours of development, includes a patented function and comprises some 360 components.

Some of them are made by UV-LiGA, a micro-manufacturing technology entirely mastered in-house by Rolex. This technology allows the production of components whose tiny proportions or complex geometry rule out manufacturing by traditional machining methods.

Calibre 4161 was based on the Rolex 4130 chronograph movement, which equips the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona. It is fitted with a traversing column wheel and vertical clutch for an instantaneous chronograph start.

The oscillator has a blue Parachrom hairspring, patented and manufactured by Rolex in an exclusive alloy. Insensitive to magnetic fields, the Parachrom hairspring offers great stability in the face of temperature variations and remains up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks. A Rolex overcoil ensures its regularity in any position. Calibre 4161 is equipped with a self-winding module via a Perpetual rotor and offers a power reserve of approximately 72 hours.

The Yacht-Master II is fitted on a solid-link Oyster bracelet with an Oysterlock safety clasp that prevents accidental opening. The bracelet includes the ingenious Rolex-patented Easylink rapid extension system that allows the wearer to easily increase the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm, for additional comfort in any circumstance.

Like all Rolex watches, the Yacht-Master II is covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015. This exclusive designation testifies that the watch has successfully undergone a series of tests conducted by Rolex in its own laboratories according to its own criteria, which exceed watchmaking norms and standards. The certification applies to the fully assembled watch, after casing the movement, guaranteeing superlative performance on the wrist in terms of precision, power reserve, waterproofness and self-winding. The precision of a Rolex Superlative

Chronometer after casing is of the order of −2/+2 seconds per day, or more than twice that required of an official chronometer.

The Superlative Chronometer status is symbolized by the green seal that comes with every Rolex watch and is coupled with an international five-year guarantee.

Technical details

Model: Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master II Case ref. 116680 | Bracelet ref. 78210

Case Type: Oyster (monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown) Diameter: 44 mm Material: 904L steel, satin and polished finish Bezel: Bidirectional 90° rotatable Ring Command bezel; Cerachrom insert in blue ceramic with engraved numerals and inscription coated with platinum via magnetron sputtering Case back: Screw-down with Rolex fluting Winding crown: Screw-down, Triplock triple waterproofness system Crown guard: Integral part of the middle case Crystal: Scratch-resistant sapphire Waterproofness: 100 metres (330 feet)

Movement Calibre 4161, Manufacture Rolex Mechanical chronograph movement with column wheel and vertical clutch Bidirectional self-winding via Perpetual rotor Precision: –2/+2 sec/day, after casing Oscillator Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4 Hz) Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring Rolex overcoil Large balance wheel with variable inertia High-precision regulating via four gold Microstella nuts Traversing balance bridge Jewelling: 42 rubies Power reserve: Approximately 72 hours

Functions Centre hour and minute hands, small seconds hand at 6 o’clock Programmable regatta countdown with mechanical memory, retrograde minute hand, on-the-fly synchronization of the countdown seconds and minute hands Stop-seconds for precise time setting

Dial Colour: White lacquer, blue small seconds counter Hour markers: Highly legible Chromalight appliqués (long-lasting luminescence) in 18 ct white gold Hands: 18 ct white gold, Chromalight

Bracelet Type: Oyster, three-piece solid links Material: 904L steel, polished centre links, satin-finished outer links with polished edges Clasp: Oysterlock folding safety clasp Easylink 5 mm comfort extension link

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Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master II Hands-On

The year is 2011 and this conversation is overheard in a Rolex boutique.

“Good morning.” “Good morning, sir, how may we help you?” “I’d like a large Rolex.” “That’d be the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master II. Here you go, sir.” “I’ll take that, thank you. Bye.” “Bye!”

All images by David Bredan

The Large Rolex

For the longest time, and I’ll take the blame for this, I couldn’t see the Yacht-Master II as nothing more than  The Large Rolex . The 44mm wide Yacht-Master II was the go-to large Rolex, with a massive gap in size between it and the 40mm Sea-Dwellers, Submariners, and others. Debuted in 2007, the Yacht-Master II was followed just next year by the absolutely massive Deepsea that had the same width at 44mm but was considerably thicker, so it both appeared and wore much, much larger than the YMII, placing it far off the map for most.

The Sky-Dweller made its debut in 2012, and while it also looks and wears large, until 2017 it was exclusively available in solid gold cases, rendering it about 40% more expensive than the two-tone YMII that had already been available by 2012. I did look these things up – wouldn’t want to pose as someone who remembers all this. No wonder then, that the Yacht-Master II became The Large Rolex worn by premiership ballerinas footballers, celebrities, and… basically everyone who wanted in on the large watch craze with a Rolex, but didn’t like or couldn’t afford the Sky-Dweller. The fact that Rolex took so long and only debuted the larger, 43mm wide Sea-Dweller in 2017 is just Rolex being its usual cautious self that caused it to nearly miss the boat on the large watch trend – but that’s for another discussion.

Stars aligned and I ended up in a Rolex boutique with a camera in one hand and the Yacht-Master II in the other – welcome to watch blogger life. It was only there that I realized I should have cared about the Yacht-Master II because my goodness, it is a truly impressive piece of watchmaking. It’s the Bentley of watches: big, brash, and showy, bought by a demographic that people not part of are keen not to be associated with… But beyond all that lies a deeply impressive, well-made, uniquely cool product.

I am realizing now that it might as well just be my boredom with the Submariners and Datejusts speaking, but as I was reviewing my images on the spot on the camera’s screen (not even a larger, better display) I realized the many intricate and well-made details of the Yacht-Master II. It’s proper Rolex through and through – you’d never ever mistake the entire watch or any of its details for anything but a Rolex – but at the same time its functionality, layout, as well as its case and dial design are all refreshingly unique.

Yes, that’s what got me. The weird, piston-style pushers (that need not be screwed down), the weird, but strangely beautiful proportions of the lugs and bezel, the incredible quality of the blue ceramic bezel and its laser-etched, PVD-coated numerals, the weird arch of the dial that resembles (in my mind at least) a gauge of a submarine, and the ADD-curing tactile feel of the Ring Command bezel. These make the Yacht-Master II not only unlike any other Rolex, but unlike any other watch. How did this happen?

Whether or not Rolex had the large watch trend on its mind when designing the Yacht-Master II, we’ll never know. I have no hopes in receiving a definitive “yes, we did” or “no, we didn’t” answer from them. The Yacht-Master II was designed with a programmable fly-back regatta chronograph ( ooooh, just writing that down felt strangely satisfying ) and it was also the watch to debut Rolex’s Ring Command rotating bezel system that was later also used in the Sky-Dweller.

We’ll look at how it all works soon but for a second imagine the amount of R&D time and effort that must have gone into designing what is now called the Manufacture Rolex Calibre 4161 “with some 360 components.” What the heck, even Rolex appears to be proud of this movement as this, I believe, is the only movement they proactively communicate the exact component count of. It is known that the 4130 chronograph in the Daytona has 201 parts, but Rolex officially only ever said they managed to reduce the chronograph’s component count by 60%, without providing the total 201 count – and as far as the other movements are concerned, no exact component figure is ever shared.

Give or take the large watch trend, the Yacht-Master II is also something else: it’s Rolex’s love letter to one of its obscure, but long-standing passions, yachting. Worry not, I’ll spare you the long, teary-eyed story of all that’s exciting about yachting. That’s partly because I’ve never been on a racing yacht and partly because it’s irrelevant in this discussion – you either already are a skipper at heart, or if you’re not, my measly few words won’t get you started. Rolex has produced a number of longer videos on the topic, so if you can take 24 minutes of “uplifting-instrumental-music.mp3” and are desperate to learn more about yachting, then I suggest you watch the video above. But only then.

So, looking at it strictly as a watch, without its implications, customer base, or inspiration, what do we have with the Rolex Yacht-Master II? From my time with it, I came away with a new-found admiration for its many impressive feats starting with its mechanical engineering and ending with its countless neatly executed details. The Rolex Yacht-Master II was specifically designed for regatta yacht races where the starting procedure of the race requires each yacht to be positioned as best as possible when a given time limit expires. From what I understand this time limit before the actual start varies between 5 and 10 minutes and so skippers need a regatta timer watch with a countdown timer (i.e. a reverse chronograph) that can be programmed to count down from a pre-set time between 5 and 10 minutes. When the officials give a signal, the countdown begins, the pre-set regatta chronographs are started, and the maneuvering begins.

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One of the primary reasons we founded Bob's Watches was to establish an efficient marketplace with a trusted buyer and seller. Since there was such a void in the marketplace for this service, we have enjoyed remarkable success by providing better value for the seller and for the buyer as well. Most people looking to sell Rolex watches just want to know what is it worth and what is a fair price I can get for it.

If you are in the market to sell your Rolex watch, browse our pricing sheet to determine the current market value of any given model.

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Used Rolex Price Guide

Anyone who follows the secondary Rolex watch market will likely tell you that it continues to be a good investment. The insatiable demand for Rolex watches continues to be a driving force in the pre owned Rolex watches market. Even Rolex models that were once easy to buy on the secondary market at prices much less than retail are now commanding prices close to or even above their brand-new counterparts. But just how much is a Rolex? To make sense of the current state of Rolex prices and to understand why which ones are rising and why, here's our ultimate guide to used Rolex prices.

Click here for our Ultimate Buying Guide on Rolex watches.

Rolex Submariner Prices: Retail vs Used

The Submariner dive watch is Rolex's most famous sports model. While the collection is expansive, the stainless steel Rolex Submariner Date watches are the most ubiquitous. The rise of the steel Submariner Date Manufacturer Suggested Retail Price (MSRP) is charted below and covers the following references:

• Submariner Date ref. 16610LN (1987 – 2010)
• Submariner Date ref. 16610LV "Kermit" (2003 – 2010)
• Submariner Date ref. 116610LN (2010 – 2020)
• Submariner Date ref. 116610LV "Hulk" (2010 – 2020)
• Submariner Date ref. 126610LN (2020 – Present)
• Submariner Date ref. 126610LV "Cermit" (2020 – Present)

Stainless Steel Submariner Date Price

Rolex has always made the (no-date) Submariner in stainless steel and fitted it with a black dial and bezel. As such, it's the least expensive Sub in the catalog. The rise of the steel Submariner MSRP is charted below and includes the following references:

• Submariner ref. 14060M (1999 – 2012)
• Submariner ref. 114060 (2012 – 2020)
• Submariner ref. 124060 (2020 – Present)

Stainless Steel Submariner Price

However, the retail price does not tell the full story. As a highly sought-after Rolex watch, the 2022 prices for used steel Rolex Submariner models are generally more than MSRP.

Rolex Submariner Date Pre Owned Prices:

• Pre-owned Submariner Date 16610LN Price: Starting at $8,795
• Pre-owned Submariner Date 16610LV Price: Starting at $18,495
• Pre-owned Submariner Date 116610LN Price: Starting at $10,795
• Pre-owned Submariner Date 116610LV Price: Starting at $23,995
• Pre-owned Submariner Date 126610LN Price Starting at $14,795
• Pre-owned Submariner Date 126610LV Price: Starting at $21,995

Rolex Submariner No-Date Pre Owned Prices:

• Pre-owned Submariner 14060M Price Range: Starting at $10,195
• Pre-owned Submariner 114060 Price Range: Starting at $12,395
• Pre-owned Submariner 124060 Price Range: Starting at $14,295

Rolex GMT-Master II Prices: Retail vs Used

The Rolex GMT-Master II was the first model to debut the then-new Cerachrom ceramic bezel, which ushered in a new design era for the brand. The stainless steel GMT-Master II with a Cerachrom bezel was released in 2007 and it was first only available in black. The following decade, the familiar two-tone GMT bezels joined the lineup. The rise of steel GMT-Master II retail prices are charted below and covers the following references:

• GMT-Master II ref. 116710LN (2007 – 2018)
• GMT-Master II ref. 116710BLNR "Batman" (2013 – 2019)
• GMT-Master II ref. 126710BLRO "Pepsi" (2018 – Present)
• GMT-Master II ref. 126710BLNR "Batman" (2019 – Present)

Stainless Steel GMT-Master II Price

Again, we see that the market of collectors and enthusiasts drive up the value of steel GMT-Master II watches. Below are the 2022 prices for used steel GMT-Master II watches.

• Pre-owned GMT-Master II 116710LN Price: Starting at $12,995
• Pre-owned GMT-Master II 116710BLNR Price: Starting at $17,995
• Pre-owned GMT-Master II 126710BLRO Price: Starting at $17,995
• Pre-owned GMT-Master II 126710BLNR Price: Starting at $20,595

Rolex Daytona Prices: Retail vs Used

The most famous chronograph ever made, the Rolex Daytona is the one to own. The steel variants are particularly popular - although the gold and two-tone versions aren't far behind. While the automatic steel Daytona watches were equipped with metal bezels since their launch in 1988, in 2016 that all changed when Rolex switched to a black Cerachrom bezel. The following graph shows the retail price increase of the stainless steel Daytona, which covers the following references:

• Daytona ref. 116520 (2000 – 2016)
• Daytona ref. 116500 (2016 – Present)

Stainless Steel Daytona Price

Of all the Rolex watches, it's the Daytona that commands the highest premiums on the secondary market - more than double retail. Here are the 2022 prices for used steel Daytona references:

• Pre-owned Daytona 116520 Price: Starting at $24,995
• Pre-owned Daytona 116500 Price: Starting at $34,495

Rolex Explorer Prices: Retail vs Used

With its steel construction and time-only dial, the Explorer is positioned as one of Rolex's most affordable and understated sports watch models. The past few years have seen an incredible demand increase for the Explorer - both for the older 36mm model and the newer 39mm model, thereby driving up its market price. The below graph tracks the rise in the Rolex Explorer MSRP, covering the following references:

• Explorer ref. 114270 (2001 – 2010)
• Explorer ref. 214270 MK I (2010 – 2016)
• Explorer ref. 214270 MK II (2016 – 2021)
• Explorer ref. 124270 (2022 - Present)

Explorer Price

While Rolex has maintained the Explorer retail price over the last decade, the demand for this watch has driven the prices up for pre-owned models above retail prices. Here are the 2022 prices for used Explorer watches:

• Pre-owned Explorer 14720 Price: Starting at $6,000
• Pre-owned Explorer 214720 MK I Price: Starting at $7,295
• Pre-owned Explorer 214720 MK II Price: Starting at $8,195

Rolex Explorer II Prices: Retail vs Used

The younger, bigger, and more complicated brother of the Explorer, the Explorer II benefits from the addition of GMT and date functionalities. Like many other Rolex sports watch models, the Explorer II underwent a size increase, growing from 40mm to 42mm in 2011. The following graph shows the rise in the Explorer II retail price, covering the following references:

• Explorer II ref. 16570 (1989-2011)
• Explorer II ref. 216570 (2011 - 2021)
• Explorer II ref. 226570 (2012 - Present)

Explorer II Price

It wasn't that long ago that the Explorer II was frequently dubbed the most underrated Rolex sports watch in the market with pre-owned prices reliably much less than retail prices. The story has significantly changed over the last couple of years and as of 2022, these are the prices for pre-owned Rolex Explorer II watches:

• Pre-owned Explorer II 16570 Price: Starting at $8,595
• Pre-owned Explorer II 216570 Price: Starting at $10,195

Rolex Sea-Dweller and Deepsea Prices: Retail vs Used

The Sea-Dweller and the Deepsea are Rolex's most robust and capable dive watches, with the former boasting a water-resistance rating of 1,200 meters and the latter an incredible rating of 3,900 meters! The Sea-Dweller has been around since 1967 while the Deepsea is much newer, having made its debut in 2008. Below are charts depicting the MSRP increase of the Sea-Dweller and the Deepsea, covering the following references:

Rolex Sea-Dweller Prices:

• Sea-Dweller ref. 16600 (1989 – 2009)
• Sea-Dweller ref. 116600 (2014–2017)
• Sea-Dweller ref. 126600 (2017 – Present)

Rolex Deepsea Prices:

• Deepsea ref. 116660 (2008 – 2018)
• Deepsea ref. 116660 D Blue (2014 – 2018)
• Deepsea ref. 126660 (2018 – 2022)
• Deepsea ref. 126660 D-Blue (2018 – 2022)
• Deepsea ref. 136660 (2022 - Present)
• Deepsea ref. 136660 D-Blue (2022 - Present)

Sea-Dweller Price

Deepsea Price

Similar to the popularity of the Submariner, these two dive watches have also always enjoyed healthy resale prices. However, the last handful of years has witnessed sharp increases in resale value. In 2022, these are the prices for pre-owned Sea-Dweller and Deepsea watches:

Rolex Sea-Dweller Pre Owned Prices:

• Pre-owned Sea-Dweller 16600 Price: Starting at $9,995
• Pre-owned Sea-Dweller 116600 Price: Starting at $16,995
• Pre-owned Sea-Dweller ref. 126600 Price: Starting at $14,595

Rolex Deepsea Pre-Owned Prices:

• Pre-owned Deepsea ref. 116660 Price: Starting at $12,495
• Pre-owned Deepsea ref. 116660 D Blue Price: Starting at $13,495
• Pre-owned Deepsea ref. 126660 Price: $15,995
• Pre-owned Deepsea ref. 126660 D-Blue Price: Starting at $15,995

Rolex Yacht-Master Prices: Retail vs Used

Rolex introduced the Yacht-Master nautical watch in 1992, similar in many ways to the Submariner but more luxurious in its execution. The Yacht-Master's higher price point reflects the watch's ample use of precious metals. Below is a graph charting the rise of MSRP of the popular stainless steel and platinum Yacht-Master 40, covering the following references:

• Yacht-Master 40 ref. 16622 (1999 – 2012)
• Yacht-Master 40 ref. 116622 (2012 – 2019)
• Yacht-Master 40 ref. 126622 (2019 – Present)

Stainless Steel & Platinum Yacht-Master 40 Price

Yet again, we see that the overall demand for Rolex sports watches, including the Yacht-Master, is causing pre-owned prices to escalate at a rapid rate. It was once easier to find a used Yacht-Master well below retail; however, as of early 2022, expect to pay these prices for pre-owned references:

• Pre-owned Yacht-Master 40 16622 Price: Starting at $9,995
• Pre-owned Yacht-Master 40 116622 Price: Starting at $14,495
• Pre-owned Yacht-Master 40 126622 Price: Starting at $15,995

Rolex Yacht-Master II Prices: Retail vs Used

Released in 2007 as a 44mm model equipped with a regatta chronograph, the Yacht-Master II is one of Rolex's newest, largest, most complicated, and priciest sports watches. While it was initially only available in precious metals, in 2013, Rolex launched the stainless steel Yacht-Master II. As the chart below illustrates, Rolex has not increased the steel Yacht-Master II MSRP significantly over the last decade.

• Yacht-Master II ref. 116680 Mark I (2013 - 2017)
• Yacht-Master II ref. 116680 Mark II (2017 - Present)

Stainless Steel Yacht-Master II Price

It's no secret that the Yacht-Master II's bold style and niche complication is a polarizing offering within Rolex enthusiasts. As such, it hasn't yet gained the type of mass popularity as other Rolex sports watches and as of early 2022, fans of this regatta chronograph can still take advantage of below-retail prices for a used steel Yacht-Master II.

• Pre-owned Yacht-Master II ref. 116680 Price: Starting at $20,995

Rolex Milgauss Prices: Retail vs. Used

Although the antimagnetic Milgauss watch was first created in the mid-1950s to serve the burgeoning scientific community, Rolex discontinued it in 1988. However, in 2007, the Milgauss made its return in a modern form with a 40mm steel case. Buyers could choose between the Milgauss ref. 116400 with a traditional clear sapphire crystal and the futuristic-looking Milgauss ref. 116400GV with a green-tinted sapphire crystal. As of 2016, Rolex only produces the green "GV" version and the below plot depicts the increase of both Milgauss reference retail prices since their introduction.

• Milgauss ref. 116400 (2007 - 2016)
• Milgauss ref. 116400GV (2007 - Present)

Milgauss Price

The Milgauss is one of the very few sportier 40mm steel Rolex watches that can currently be found in the secondary market at prices below retail. However, the price difference between a new and a pre-owned Milgauss is not that significant and the gap seems to be closing. As of 2022, the prices for used Rolex Milgauss watches are:

• Milgauss 116400 Price: Starting at $9,595
• Milgauss 116400GV Price: Starting at $7,995

Rolex Air-King Prices: Retail vs Used

With its straightforward stainless steel construction, smaller 34mm case size, and time-only dial, the Air-King was historically one of Rolex's most affordable watches. However, in 2014, Rolex discontinued the Air-King and brought it back in 2016 as a very different watch. The current Rolex Air-King is now larger, sporting a 40mm case with a black dial with colorful details, and it has been given the same antimagnetic capabilities as the Milgauss. Its retail price has also increased to reflect the changes and below is a chart that illustrates the change in MSRP of the following references:

• Air-King ref. 114200 (2007 – 2014)
• Air-King ref. 116900 (2016 – 2022)
• Air-King ref. 126900 (2022 - Present)

Air-King Price

Similar to the majority of stainless steel models, pre-owned Air-King prices have also increased in recent years to levels close to or above retail. As of 2022, the cost of owning used Air-King watches are as follows:

• Pre-owned Air-King ref. 114200 Price: Starting at $6,595
• Pre-owned Air-King ref. 116900 Price: Starting at $9,595

Rolex Sky-Dweller Prices: Retail vs Used

The Sky-Dweller is the newest model to join the Rolex catalog, first released in 2012. With a gold fluted bezel on top of its 42mm case, the Sky-Dweller borrows its design from other Rolex dress watches but benefits from an annual calendar complication and a dual timezone display. The Sky-Dweller was initially exclusively available in solid 18k gold but in 2017, Rolex released a pair of Rolesor versions - one that paired a stainless steel case with a white gold bezel and the other in a two-tone yellow gold and steel combination. Given that the Rolesor Sky-Dweller watches have only been around since 2017, their retails prices have only increased by a few hundred dollars.

• Sky-Dweller ref. 326934 (2017 – Present)
• Sky-Dweller ref. 326933 (2017 – Present)

Rolesor Sky-Dweller Price

While Rolex has not significantly increased the price of the steel and white gold Sky-Dweller, the value of pre-owned editions has skyrocketed. Both Rolesor Sky-Dweller watches are currently valued above their retail prices on the secondary market and it's not uncommon for the steel/white gold variant - particularly the one with the blue dial - to resell for almost double. Prices for used Rolex Sky-Dweller watches as of 2022 are as follows:

• Pre-owned Sky-Dweller 326934 Price: Starting at $26,995
• Pre-owned Sky-Dweller 326933 Price: Starting at $22,995

Rolex Day-Date Prices: Retail vs Used

As it is Rolex's most prestigious watch model and exclusively fashioned from precious metals, Day-Date watches, also known as Rolex President watches, are some of the brand's priciest pieces. Although Day-Date watches are available in three different shades of gold and platinum, the most popular are yellow gold Rolex Presidentials. Below is a graph charting the increase in MSRP of yellow gold Rolex Day-Date watches, covering the following references:

• Day-Date 36 ref. 118238 (2000 – 2019)
• Day-Date 36 ref. 128238 (2019 – Present)
• Day-Date II ref. 218238 (2008 – 2015)
• Day-Date 40 ref. 228238 (2015 – Present)

Yellow Gold Day-Date Price

It used to be common to find pre owned Day-Date watches at prices well below retail. However, yellow gold Rolex Day-Date watches have been having a major moment these last few years and their popularity has driven up the prices in the pre-owned market. 2022 prices for used Rolex President watches are as follows:

• Pre-Owned Day-Date 36 118238 Price: Starting at $23,795
• Pre-Owned Day-Date 36 128238 Price: Starting at $39,995
• Pre-Owned Day-Date II 218238 Price: Starting at $34,995
• Pre-Owned Day-Date 40 228238 Price: Starting at $45,495

Datejust Prices: Retail vs Used

The Datejust has been Rolex's flagship watch since its inception in 1945. The Datejust is available in a vast assortment of sizes, materials, and styles but some of the most popular are the stainless steel variants with case sizes that measure 36mm or 41mm. Below is a graph detailing the retail prices of steel Rolex Datejust watches, covering the following references:

• Datejust 36 ref. 16200 (1989 – 2006)
• Datejust 36 ref. 116200 (2006 – 2018)
• Datejust 36 ref. 126200 (2018 – Present)
• Datejust II ref. 116300 (2012 – 2017)
• Datejust 41 ref. 126300 (2017 – Present)

Stainless Steel Datejust Prices

Good news for Rolex fans looking to buy a pre-owned Datejust - some references can still be found below the retail prices of the most current models. Yet, the latest generation of steel Datejust watches, whether Datejust 36 or Datejust 41, are selling for a premium on the pre-owned market. The prices for used Rolex Datejust watches as of 2022 are as follows:

• Pre-owned Datejust 36 16200 Price: Starting at $5,995
• Pre-owned Datejust 36 116200 Price: Starting at $6,895
• Pre-owned Datejust 36 126200 Price: Starting at $8,995
• Pre-owned Datejust II 116300 Price: Starting at $10,495
• Pre-owned Datejust 41 126300 Price: Starting at $9,795

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Prices: Retail vs. Used

The Oyster Perpetual is Rolex's entry-level watch, combining a water-resistant Oyster case in stainless steel with an automatic Perpetual movement that powers the time-only dial. Rolex has offered the Oyster Perpetual in various sizes over the years and the below retail price chart tracks the following references:

• Oyster Perpetual 36 ref. 116000 (2008 – 2020)
• Oyster Perpetual 36 ref. 126000 (2020 – Present)
• Oyster Perpetual 39 ref. 114300 (2015 – 2020)
• Oyster Perpetual 41 ref. 124300 (2020 – Present)

Oyster Perpetual Prices

Thanks to Rolex releasing a brand new Oyster Perpetual lineup with colorful dials in 2020, the entry-level Rolex is trading well above retail prices in the pre-owned market. As of 2022, the prices for used Oyster Perpetual watches are as follows:

• Pre-owned Oyster Perpetual 36 116000 Price: Starting at $6,995
• Pre-owned Oyster Perpetual 36 126000 Price: Starting at $9,595
• Pre-owned Oyster Perpetual 39 Price: Starting at $7,195
• Pre-owned Oyster Perpetual 41 Price: Starting at $8,295

How a Rolex Price Is Determined for a Vintage or Used Watch

The Rolex price range is incredibly vast; however the actual fair market value of a pre owned watch isn't just about its age. In fact, a vintage Rolex can often fetch a significantly higher price than a second-hand watch from the current generation. So, what are all the factors that can determine a pre-owned Rolex price when evaluating its fair market value?

The overall condition of a watch can make or break its value. By assessing the aesthetics and functionality of a used Rolex, a knowledgeable dealer can properly price the watch at its true fair market value. In most instances, the better the condition of a watch, the higher its fair market value will be. However, sometimes when dealing with rare vintage references, certain signs of age such as tropical dials, ghost bezels, and patina can actually increase the value of the watch.

Original Features and Authenticity

There's a difference between an entirely circa-correct Rolex and an authentic Rolex, and they can both play greatly into the overall Rolex price range for a specific pre-owned model. An entirely circa-correct Rolex means that the watch boasts components that are all correct for the time period in which it was produced - a good sign that it likely still has all of its original factory parts (although there is no way to definitively tell that something wasn't replaced with an identical component from the exact same era at some point during its previous life).

Typically, prices on the vintage Rolex market are much stronger for watches that are completely circa-correct, even if they show signs of wear and age. An authentic Rolex is a watch that is completely genuine - meaning that every single component on it is made by Rolex, with no aftermarket or custom additions whatsoever. However, a Rolex can be 100% authentic without being circa-correct.

Typically when parts need to be replaced, Rolex replaces them with the newest compatible versions for that watch. These replacement components are entirely genuine, and are often superior from a purely functional standpoint; however for certain components on highly-collectable vintage models, these later-era replacement parts can sometimes detract significantly from the value of the timepiece.

Box and Papers

This isn't always a huge factor, as a lot of Rolex watches sold on the pre-owned market come without the original box or papers. However, for certain vintage Rolex models, the inclusion of their original box and paperwork can significantly increase their value for collections. Many times, these items were lost or otherwise separated from their accompanying watches over the years, and so finding a vintage Rolex that still has its original box and papers is becoming an increasingly rare occurrence.

Model and Reference Numbers

Some Rolex watches are more popular or collectable than others and that's just a fact. For example, most of the time a vintage Submariner is going to fetch a higher price than a vintage Datejust, simply because more Datejust watches were sold over the years, and (generally speaking) most people took better care of them.

You also have to consider the reference number of the watch itself, as there can be large price differences between them that can really dictate resale value. For example, a ref. 5512 and a ref. 5513 Submariner may look almost identical, but there is often a significant difference in price between these two models, even when they are from a similar year of production.

Provenance and Rarity

The model and reference number both significantly play into the overall rarity of a Rolex, and consequently influence its pricing. However, sometimes these factors hardly come into play at all. For example, you may own a rather common and inauspicious Rolex model, but if it previously belonged to a celebrity or other noteworthy individual, that gives the watch a serious provenance and can significantly increase its resale value.

Similarly, rare or unusual traits can also significantly increase a Rolex price far beyond what would normally be the fair market value for similar examples of the same reference. Additionally, you may have a Rolex from a not-particularly-special reference, but if it has a rare dial or some other unusual feature or even a factory defect, that also has the potential to make it rare and quite a bit more valuable to collectors.

Market Value

While all of these things play into determining the value of a Rolex, the secondary market also drives the prices of Rolex watches - just like a stock market. Bob's Watches uses this same open market system to help us both buy and sell watches at the most fair prices anywhere online. We publish both the buy and sell prices for every Rolex model, so that both buyers and sellers can verify that they are getting the best possible deal.

However, because the demand for Rolex watches far exceeds the supply at a retail level, multi-year waiting lists for many of the brand's top models exist at virtually all retailers around the globe. Consequently, this strong market demand can drive the fair market values for certain Rolex watches well above their original retail prices. For some ultra-desirable models like the stainless steel Rolex Daytona, if you are lucky enough to find one at retail, you can turn around and sell it for almost twice what you paid for it!

Used Rolex Prices As An Investment

In some cases, if you buy a brand-new Rolex, it may depreciate once you leave the store with them. However, as we've illustrated, more and more Rolex watches sell for significantly higher than their original retail prices. Chances are that you will be able to sell your Rolex in the future for roughly the same sum, should the need arise. You could buy a Submariner today and offload it again in ten years time for an amount similar to what you paid for it (or more) - meaning that you have worn an icon of horology for a decade, completely for free.

Choose the right Rolex model and you also stand a very good chance of making a profit. A number of Rolex's stainless steel sports watches only keep growing in terms of desirability, and the amount that collectors are willing to pay for them increases in tandem. Even if you don't want to part with your Rolex, you still have the peace of mind knowing that, if looked after properly, your watch will easily outlast you and can be handed down to the next generation to enjoy - and there are very few other things that can make a similar claim.

There are many reasons a Rolex watch costs what it does. While it can initially seem like a lot of money, once you look below the surface and take into account the quality of the materials, the timeless nature of the designs, the more than a century of heritage, and the fact they hold their value so well, the price of a Rolex watch is actually pretty reasonable. The product of the biggest and most successful watchmaker in the world, there's nothing quite like a Rolex.

Frequently Asked Questions

Below are some of the most frequently asked questions about used Rolex prices.

What is the price of a new Rolex Submariner?

Rolex released the newest collection of Submariner watches in 2020 with 41mm cases and new-generation movements. The retail price of a new Rolex Submariner ranges from $8,950 to $40,650.

• Submariner ref. 124060: $8,950
• Submariner ref. 126610LN: $10,100
• Submariner ref. 126610LV: $10,600
• Submariner ref. 126613LN: $14,700
• Submariner ref. 126613LB: $14,700
• Submariner ref. 126618LN: $37,950
• Submariner ref. 126618LB: $37,950
• Submariner ref. 126619LB: $40,650

However, due to the high demand for these watches and the accompanying waitlist, the pre owned prices for most of these references - particularly the stainless steel models - are quite a bit higher than their original retail prices.

How do you buy a Rolex at retail price?

Due to the massive global demand for Rolex watches, it can be almost impossible to buy select Rolex model at retail prices. It typically requires an already existing relationship with a Rolex authorized dealer and a willingness to wait a very long time to finally get the chance to buy one. It's been reported that some Rolex watches, like the current steel Daytona, Submariner, and GMT-Master II, have waitlists that are multiple years-long.

What is the price of Rolex GMT Master II?

Rolex released the newest collection of GMT-Master II watches in 2018 with redesigned cases, new bezel color options, new material combinations, and new-generation movements. The price of a new Rolex GMT-Master II at retail ranges from $10,550 to $41,600.

• GMT-Master II 126710BLNR: $10,550
• GMT-Master II 126710BLRO: $10,550
• GMT-Master II 126711CHNR: $15,250
• GMT-Master II 126715CHNR: $39,350
• GMT-Master II 126719BLRO: $39,350
• GMT-Master II 126719BLRO (meteorite dial): $41,600

However, due to demand for these watches, the pre owned prices of the latest steel GMT-Master II models start at $15,595 for the "Batman" and $17,995 for the "Pepsi."

Are Rolex watches worth the price?

Rolex's longtime approach of continuously enhancing its watches with modern materials and mechanical improvements, while simultaneously not drastically changing designs has proven to be a winning formula. Rolex outsells every other luxury watch brand - by far - and many of its watches are valued much higher on the open market than retail prices suggest. Therefore, the combination of incredible designs, reliable movements, and impressive resale value makes Rolex watches well worth the price.

What is the price of Rolex Oyster Perpetual?

Rolex released the newest collection of Oyster Perpetual watches in 2020 with some new case size options, plenty of new and vibrant dial colors, and new-generation movements. The price of a new Oyster Perpetual at retail ranges from $5,100 to $5,900, depending on case size.

• Oyster Perpetual 28 276200: $5,300
• Oyster Perpetual 31 277200: $5,400
• Oyster Perpetual 34 124200 $5,500
• Oyster Perpetual 36 126000: $5,800
• Oyster Perpetual 41 124300: $6,100

The vibrant new dial shades of the Oyster Perpetual watches have made these entry-level Rolex watches incredibly desirable. Some popular colorways, like turquoise, yellow, and coral red are now even reselling for five-digit prices on the secondary market.

What is the price of the cheapest Rolex?

The cheapest Rolex in the current catalog is the Oyster Perpetual, which ranges from $5,300 to $6,100 depending on the size. Some of the cheapest pre-owned Rolex watches include older models of the Oyster Perpetual, Air-King, Date, and Lady-Datejust.

What is the price range of a Rolex watch?

In the current lineup, the retail price range of a Rolex watch starts at $5,300 and tops out at just over $500,000. The supremely rare platinum Rolex Day-Date 40 ref. 228396TEM with a baguette-emerald bezel is priced at about $520,000.

Why are Rolex prices going up?

In January 2020, Rolex increased the prices for most of its watches. In the United States, Rolex retail prices increased by three to six percent on average. On the other hand, the secondary market has demonstrated much sharper price increases for pre-owned Rolex watches due to an ever-growing demand that far exceeds supply. In short, Rolex prices are going up because the demand for them is continuously increasing with no signs of slowing down in the near future.

Are Rolex prices going down?

Despite a global pandemic and a decrease in Swiss watch exports, Rolex prices are not currently going down. Not only did Rolex increase the prices of its watches across the board in January 2020 but many pre-owned Rolex watches are also experiencing price increases thanks to an incredibly strong global demand.

What is the lowest price of a Rolex watch?

The lowest price of a Rolex watch starts at less than $3,000 for older pre owned Oyster Perpetual references. However, as prices across the board continue to increase, it is not likely that these models will stay this affordable forever.

What is the starting price of a Rolex watch?

The starting price of a Rolex watch at retail is $5,300 for a 28mm Oyster Perpetual, $5,800 for a 36mm Oyster Perpetual, and $6,100 for a 41mm Oyster Perpetual. On the pre owned market, the starting price of a Rolex watch is currently about $2,000 to $3,000 depending on the specific model and its configuration.

Can you negotiate Rolex prices?

Authorized Rolex dealers are contractually bound to sell Rolex watches at MSRP and are barred from negotiating prices. You'll have slightly better luck negotiating Rolex prices on the pre-owned market - but not for exceedingly popular references. Generally speaking, the price of a Rolex watch is pretty firm, regardless of whether you are buying it brand-new or pre owned.

How often does Rolex increase prices?

The latest official price increase from Rolex was in January 2020 and before that it was 2012. However, prior to 2012, it was common for Rolex prices to increase more frequently, and with the strong global demand for most of its watches, Rolex may return to more frequent price increases throughout its catalog.

What is the average price of a Rolex?

Although many Rolex watches are priced below $10,000 at retail, expect to pay an average of $10,000 to $15,000 for newer versions of popular models and an average of $6,000 to $12,000 for older, discontinued references when shopping on the secondary market.

How to price Rolex watches?

The best way to price Rolex watches is to request a price quote from Bob's Watches. By using a combination of historical price information, current market demand, future price trends, and the condition and configuration of the specific reference, Bob's Watches can accurately price any Rolex watch - whether vintage, discontinued, or brand-new.

When you're ready to get started visit our Sell Rolex page to receive a free instant quote. Above all, have fun!

*All prices are subject to change and subject to physical inspection.For more info about Used Rolex Prices, please call 800-494-3708.

DISCLAIMER: Sell prices are based on watches in good condition and in no need of repair or service. All prices are subject to change depending on market conditions.

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Rolex Predictions 2022: Why We Think the Current Yacht-Master II Will Be Discontinued

We are now less than two weeks away from Watches & Wonders Geneva and everyone is talking about their Rolex predictions for 2022, along with what they hope to see from the brand this year. I always say that whatever Rolex chooses to discontinue is often equally important as the new watches themselves, and my top Rolex prediction for 2022 is that all of the current Yacht-Master II models will be discontinued to make way for a new generation of regatta timers. Let me explain my thinking...

The Rolex Yacht-Master II Was Never Very Popular

While its movement is truly revolutionary, the Rolex Yacht-Master II was never really all that popular of a watch. You still can’t get one at retail, but the same can be said about virtually every other Rolex model, so although demand does exceed supply, open-market prices aren’t three times their original values, and the Yacht-Master II isn’t nearly as popular as most of its sports watch siblings.

Part of this has to do with the watch’s size and rather niche complication; 44mm is large and a  regatta timer doesn’t have quite as many everyday uses as something like a chronograph or GMT hand. However, in addition to its high retail price (a result of being powered by Rolex’s second most complex movement), the bold styling of the Yacht-Master II certainly isn’t for everyone either.  Personally, I love the extroverted and borderline ridiculous aesthetic of the full yellow gold Yacht-Master II. However, I must concede that it is the only Rolex model that screams its own name in capital letters along its bezel, and it being rendered in bright blue ceramic does little to downplay that it is quite literally shouting about being the master of yachts.

No 2022 Price Increase for Rolex Yacht-Master II Watches 

However, far more tangible than my own personal opinions and speculations about the model and its global popularity is the fact that none of the Rolex Yacht-Master II watches saw a  price increase at the beginning of 2022 . Virtually every single other Rolex model saw its retail price go up at the beginning of the year, yet none of the Yacht-Master II watches saw their prices increase by a single dollar.

The most logical explanation for this would be that the entire line is scheduled to be dropped from the catalog. However, it isn’t likely that Rolex would discontinue the Yacht-Master II altogether, so I have a feeling that we will be seeing a whole new generation of Rolex’s regatta timer at Watches & Wonders Geneva in a couple weeks. Now, as far as what I personally think that new Yacht-Master watch will be, I’ll leave that prediction for a follow up article. 

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*All images courtesy of Rolex.

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GMT-Master II

THE COSMOPOLITAN WATCH

The Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II was designed to display the time in two different time zones simultaneously. Robust and functional, it is the ideal watch for criss-crossing the globe.

In function as well as in name, the GMT-Master II evokes long-distance travel across time zones. Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) marks mean solar time at the Royal Observatory in Greenwich, London – historically the location of the official prime meridian used for calculating longitude and determining different time zones around the world. A cosmopolitan watch, the GMT-Master II is designed for those who criss-cross the globe or whose activities take place simultaneously across several time zones.

ACROSS TIME ZONES Launched in 1955, the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master witnessed the rapid expansion of intercontinental travel in the latter half of the 20th century. It even became the official watch of Pan American World Airways, better known worldwide as Pan Am, the most prominent American intercontinental airline at the time. In 1959, a major event marked the partnership: the first non-stop Pan Am Jet Clipper flight from New York to Moscow. The captain was wearing a GMT-Master, which was used as a navigation aid during the flight. The GMT-Master, a true ‘tool watch’, evolved continually to offer increasing technical performance. In 1982, Rolex introduced a new movement that allowed the hour hand to be set independently of the other hands. To clearly mark this evolution, and to avoid any confusion with the GMT-Master, the model fitted with the optimized movement was named the GMT-Master II.

24-HOUR DISPLAY AND INDEPENDENT HOUR HAND In addition to conventional hour, minute and seconds hands, which display the local time (the time in the wearer’s current location), the GMT-Master II features an arrow-tipped hand which circles the dial once every 24 hours, as well as a bidirectional rotatable bezel and a 24-hour graduated monobloc Cerachrom insert in two-colour ceramic. When the bezel is in the neutral position, that is with the triangle at 12 o’clock, the 24-hour hand displays a reference time (home time, for example), which can be read using the graduations on the bezel . When abroad, travellers can set the local time easily, with the hour hand ‘ jumping ’ from hour to hour thanks to a mechanism operated via the winding crown. The adjustment can be made independently of the minute and seconds hands, and without affecting the 24-hour hand. As a result, travellers can simultaneously read their local time as well as the reference time .

ROTATABLE BEZEL AND ALTERNATIVE TIME ZONE The time in an alternative time zone can be displayed by simply turning the rotatable bezel. In this case, the reference time is no longer shown, as it is the alternative time zone that is now read via the 24-hour hand against the graduations on the bezel. The bezel was carefully designed to ideally fulfil its function. Rolex developed a bezel rotation system with a trigonal spring that allows the bezel to be turned crisply and securely in either direction and locate with a positive click in each of the 24 different hour positions. The bezel can be turned with ease thanks to its knurled edge, which offers excellent grip.

CERACHROM BEZEL INSERT The bidirectional rotatable bezel of the GMT-Master II is equipped with a 24-hour graduated, monobloc two-colour Cerachrom insert. This patented insert is made of extremely hard, virtually scratchproof ceramics whose colours are unaffected by ultraviolet rays. In addition, thanks to its chemical composition, the high-tech ceramic is inert and cannot corrode. The moulded, recessed graduations and numerals are coated with gold or platinum using a PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) process. Over and above its functions and its intrinsic technical assets, the bezel of the GMT-Master II contributes to the model’s strong visual identity. In 2013, Rolex broke new ground when it introduced its first single-piece, two-colour ceramic bezel insert – blue on one half and black on the other – on an Oystersteel version of the GMT-Master II. A year later, it unveiled the two-colour bezel insert in red and blue ceramic, on a GMT-Master II in 18 ct white gold. In 2018, the brand presented a two-colour bezel insert in brown and black ceramic, on two variants of the GMT-Master II – one in 18 ct Everose gold and the other in an Everose Rolesor version (combining Oystersteel and Everose gold). The two-colour bezel insert in green and black ceramic was introduced in 2022 on an Oystersteel GMT-Master II with the winding crown on the left side of the case and the date aperture at 9 o’clock – the only Rolex watch with this configuration. In 2023, a two-colour Cerachrom insert in grey – a new shade – and black was unveiled on two variants of the model, one in a yellow Rolesor version (combining Oystersteel and yellow gold) and the other crafted entirely from 18 ct yellow gold. These Cerachrom inserts blend the exceptional resistance of high-technology ceramic with the iconic aesthetics of the original GMT-Master.

THE GMT-MASTER II, SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER CERTIFIED Like all Rolex watches, the GMT-Master II is covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015. This exclusive designation testifies that every watch leaving the brand’s workshops has successfully undergone a series of tests conducted by Rolex in its own laboratories and according to its own criteria. These certification tests apply to the fully assembled watch, after casing the movement, guaranteeing superlative performance on the wrist in terms of precision, power reserve, waterproofness and self-winding. The Superlative Chronometer status is symbolized by the green seal that comes with every Rolex watch and is coupled with an international five-year guarantee. The precision of every movement – officially certified as a chronometer by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) – is tested a second time by Rolex after being cased, to ensure that it meets criteria that are far stricter than those of the official certification. The precision of a Rolex Superlative Chronometer is of the order of −2/+2 seconds per day – the rate deviation tolerated by the brand for a finished watch is significantly smaller than that accepted by COSC for official certification of the movement alone. The Superlative Chronometer certification testing is carried out after casing using state-of-the-art equipment specially developed by Rolex and according to an exclusive protocol that simulates the conditions in which a watch is actually worn and more closely represents real-life experience. The entirely automated series of tests also checks the waterproofness, the self-winding capacity and the power reserve of 100 per cent of Rolex watches. These tests systematically complement the qualification testing during development and production, in order to ensure the watches’ reliability, robustness, and resistance to strong magnetic fields and to shocks.

THE OYSTER CASE, SYMBOL OF WATERPROOFNESS The GMT-Master II’s Oyster case, 40 mm in diameter and guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet), is a paragon of robustness and reliability. The middle case is crafted from a solid block of Oystersteel or 18 ct gold. The case back, edged with fine fluting, is hermetically screwed down with a special tool that allows only certified Rolex watchmakers to access the movement. The Triplock winding crown, fitted with a triple waterproofness system and protected by an integral crown guard, screws down securely against the case. The crystal, with a Cyclops lens for easy reading of the date at 3 o’clock – or at 9 o’clock on the version with the winding crown on the left side of the case – is made of virtually scratchproof sapphire and benefits from an anti-reflective coating. The waterproof Oyster case provides optimal protection for the movement it houses.

CALIBRE 3285 The GMT-Master II is equipped with calibre 3285, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. A consummate demonstration of technology, this movement carries a number of patents. It offers outstanding performance, particularly in terms of precision, power reserve, convenience and reliability.

Calibre 3285 incorporates the patented Chronergy escapement, made of nickel-phosphorus, which combines high energy efficiency with great dependability and is also resistant to strong magnetic fields.

The movement is fitted with the blue Parachrom hairspring, manufactured by Rolex in a paramagnetic alloy. In addition to resisting strong magnetic fields, this hairspring offers great stability in the face of temperature variations as well as high resistance to shocks. It is equipped with a Rolex overcoil, ensuring the calibre’s regularity in any position.

The oscillator of calibre 3285 has a large balance wheel with variable inertia regulated extremely precisely via gold Microstella nuts. It is held firmly in place by a height-adjustable traversing bridge enabling very stable positioning to increase shock resistance. The oscillator is also mounted on the Rolex-designed, patented high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, further enhancing the movement’s shock resistance.

Calibre 3285 is equipped with a self-winding system via a Perpetual rotor, which ensures continuous winding of the mainspring by harnessing the movements of the wrist to provide a constant source of energy. Its oscillating weight has been fitted with an optimized ball bearing since 2023. Thanks to its barrel architecture and the escapement’s superior efficiency, the power reserve of this movement extends to approximately 70 hours.

The GMT-Master II’s movement will be seen only by certified Rolex watchmakers, yet it is beautifully finished and decorated. Since 2023, it has also been marked with the words ‘Chronometer Perpetual’ and ‘Superlative Adjusted’ engraved respectively on the oscillating weight and on the bridges.

BRACELET AND CLASP: SECURE AND COMFORTABLE The GMT-Master II is available on a three-piece link Oyster bracelet or a five-piece link Jubilee bracelet. These two bracelets are equipped with a Rolex-designed, patented Oysterlock safety clasp that prevents accidental opening. They are fitted with the Easylink comfort extension link, developed by the brand, which allows the wearer to easily increase the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm, providing additional comfort in any circumstance. On the 18 ct gold versions of the GMT-Master II, the Oyster and Jubilee bracelets include ceramic inserts – designed by Rolex and patented – inside the links to enhance their flexibility and longevity.

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.css-1c7en8u{font-size:clamp(1.375rem, 1.25rem + 0.3125vw, 3.125rem);line-height:1.1;margin-bottom:1rem;} Submariner .css-1g7r01k{font-weight:300;font-size:clamp(0.875rem, 0.9375rem + 0.1563vw, 1.25rem);line-height:1.2;text-wrap:balance;}.css-1g7r01k span{display:block;} Oyster, 41 mm, Oystersteel Reference 124060

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Deep confidence

The Oyster Perpetual Submariner in Oystersteel with a Cerachrom bezel insert in black ceramic and a black dial with large luminescent hour markers.

Unidirectional rotatable bezel, an underwater tool.

The Submariner's rotatable bezel is a key functionality of the watch. Its 60-minute graduations allow a diver to accurately and safely monitor diving time and decompression stops.

Manufactured by Rolex from a hard, corrosion-resistant ceramic, the Cerachrom bezel insert is virtually scratchproof. A luminescent capsule on the zero marker ensures legibility, no matter how dark the environment. The bezel’s knurled edge is carefully designed to offer excellent grip under water, even with gloves.

For legibility underwater

The dial’s luminescent Chromalight display is an innovation that improved visibility in dark environments, an essential feature for divers.

Hour markers in simple shapes – triangles, circles, rectangles – and broad hour and minute hands enable instant and reliable reading to prevent any risk of confusion underwater.

Oystersteel

Highly resistant to corrosion

Rolex uses Oystersteel for its steel watch cases. Specially developed by the brand, Oystersteel belongs to the 904L steel family, alloys most commonly used in high-technology and in the aerospace and chemical industries, where maximum resistance to corrosion is essential.

Oystersteel is extremely resistant, offers an exceptional finish once polished and maintains its beauty even in the harshest environments.

The Oyster bracelet

Alchemy of form and function.

The Oyster bracelet is a perfect alchemy of form and function, aesthetics and technology, designed to be both robust and comfortable.

It is equipped with an Oysterlock clasp, which prevents accidental opening, and an ingenious Glidelock, allowing fine adjustments of the bracelet without using any tools — and allowing it to be worn comfortably over a diving suit.

More Submariner technical details

Reference   124060

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Oyster, 41 mm, Oystersteel

Oyster architecture

Monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown

Unidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated, scratch-resistant Cerachrom insert in black ceramic, numerals and graduations coated in platinum

Winding crown

Screw-down, Triplock triple waterproofness system

Scratch-resistant sapphire

Water resistance

Waterproof to 300 metres / 1,000 feet

Perpetual, mechanical, self-winding

3230, Manufacture Rolex

-2/+2 sec/day, after casing

Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring. High-performance Paraflex shock absorbers

Bidirectional self-winding via Perpetual rotor

Power reserve

Approximately 70 hours

Oyster, three-piece solid links

Folding Oysterlock safety clasp with Rolex Glidelock extension system

Highly legible Chromalight display with long-lasting blue luminescence

Certification

Superlative Chronometer (COSC + Rolex certification after casing)

Learn how to set the time and other functions of your Rolex watch by consulting our user guides.

Contact an Official Rolex Jeweler

Only official Rolex jewelers are allowed to sell and maintain a Rolex watch. With the necessary skills, technical know-how and special equipment, they guarantee the authenticity of each and every part of your Rolex and help you make the choice that will last a lifetime.

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Hands-On The Rolex Oyster Perpetual ‘Celebration Dial’ Came To Party

The new op design is a totally unexpected move from the kings of traditional watchmaking. that's exactly why it's so marvelous..

It happens every year. At the onset of spring, as if roused by the aroma of blooming cherry blossoms, watch collectors and industry bloviators emerge from winter hibernation and begin preparing for trade-show season by ritualistically asking one another the same question. WWRD: What Will Rolex Do ?

The question is often answered dryly, with some version of "the same thing they always do lol," a trite commentary on the iterative nature of the Crown's design process – and one that conveniently ignores a litany of radical recent releases, such as the palm-frond Datejust from 2021. Or the Rainbow Daytona from 2018. Or how about the green-crystal Milgauss from 2007? Or the Stella Day-Dates from the 1970s? Or the dive watch that can go 11,000 meters deep? Or the GMTs with dials made from freaking meteorites?

Yes, Rolex does have a conservative streak – which is to be expected from an $8 billion company with a lot to lose from a tactical blunder. But that prevailing conservatism runs on a parallel path with relentless innovation. Rolex watches are not infrequently characterized by either stupendous technical achievements or wild aesthetics. To insist that the brand is only one thing or another is to deliberately ignore half the story.

The truth is that how you feel about Rolex says more about you than it does about Rolex, a company that remains stubbornly impervious to consumer feedback – a rarity in our post-Yelp era, where just about everyone feels empowered to issue an opinion that they then expect will effectuate meaningful change in corporate behavior. Collectors have so many feelings about Rolex's product design, allocation strategy, and pricing. And yet, as John Updike once wrote about Ted Williams, "Gods do not answer letters."

Into this milieu we welcome the new time-only Oyster Perpetual wristwatch, which comes in three sizes – 31mm, 36mm, and 41mm – with a case and bracelet made from gleaming stainless steel. It's a continuation of the design theme that Rolex unveiled in 2020 when it dropped a collection of candy-colored OPs in pastel pink, hunter green, coral red, marigold yellow, and turquoise blue. This set proved phenomenally popular and so influential that competitors like Omega and TAG Heuer hurriedly brought their own iterations to market. Or perhaps that was just a coincidence. But when no less than Patek Philippe gets in on the game with colored Calatravas , one does start to wonder.

So what does Rolex do now that everyone has followed its lead? It jumbles those colors together in one "Celebration Dial," with all five original hues atomized into 51 circular cells. The effect resembles a psychedelic bubble bath. Or a glass jar of tiny jawbreakers. I've even heard the look compared to a McDonald's ball pit. The common thread among these analogies is that all of these things are fun. And fun – giddy, childlike fun – is what you will have if you are lucky enough to snap this $6,000 toy onto your wrist, which I did a few hours after it was released, grinning like a lunatic until a nice lady from Rolex basically had to pry it off me.

In photos, the Celebration watch seems like it might be hard to wear with any type of clothing, given the color and pattern splashed all over it. In practice, I happened to be wearing it with a navy pinstriped suit and a burnt orange turtleneck and everyone told me that it looked smashing, though they may have been saying that just to placate a man who was clearly not taking no for an answer. In any case, it's probably a safe bet with jeans, or all black, or all white. Or whatever. Don't overthink it.

The Celebration is pretty clearly not meant for daily use. It is flagrantly impractical. But I would argue that practicality is hardly a prerequisite for a purchase as utterly discretionary as a mechanical luxury wristwatch. You buy something like this just because you want it. It's the same reason I recently brought home a wooden box full of rainbow-handled Laguiole knives , even though the boring black ones I already owned were working just fine. Beauty makes us act irrationally. 

A few words now about the size of this timepiece. Collectors, in the basest of terms, love to debate whether 36mm cases are the platonic ideal size or are, instead, simply the size preferred by the effete scribes who write about watches for a living, while real men are locked in the gym doing forearm curls and wearing 40+mm. I can't think of anything dumber to argue about, but suffice it to say that I prefer the 36 and would at least consider wearing the 31 before I wore the 41.

Photo by Mark Kauzlarich 

While we're talking specs, I guess I should also mention that the movement inside is the calibre 3230 for the two larger models, and the 2232 for the baby, but as you can undoubtedly tell by this point, the movement is the absolute last thing I care about on a watch like this. If I owned the Celebration Dial, I'm sure I would appreciate the 70 hours of power reserve and the fact that it has high-performance shock absorbers, which means I could wear it to a weekend-long rave and not worry about either winding the crown or jostling the gears while I'm getting my groove on. But mostly I like the look of it.

I like the look of it, and I like what it represents. I like that it's a pie in the face to everyone (supporters and detractors alike) who thinks they know what Rolex could, should, or will do. This thing is a genuine surprise. The watch world needs more of those – and for that matter so does the rest of the world. Because isn't it invigorating to be thrown off balance? Doesn't it remind you you're alive? Isn't part of the reason we get out of bed in the morning because we don't know what will happen? Just when life seems utterly predictable, Florida Atlantic makes the Final Four and Rolex makes a watch that looks like it should be sold at Party City, right next to the helium balloons.

For more information, visit Rolex. The H shop carries a variety of pre-owned Rolex watches, explore the collection here. 

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