trailering a sailboat

My Cruiser Life Magazine

7 Best Trailerable Sailboats for Cruising

Many sailors balk at the idea of leaving their boat in the water at a marina. Slip fees are expensive, and maintenance bills get bigger the longer you leave a boat in the water. However, if you want a boat under 30 feet long, there are trailerable sailboats that will fit the bill.

Like any boat purchase, you’ll need to analyze precisely what kind of trailer sailer you want. Will a simple weekend sailboat suffice, or do you really need the best trailerable cruising sailboat you can find? 

Here’s a look at some of the pros and cons of the best trailerable sailboat. Plus, we’ll look at how to compare them for your purposes.

Table of Contents

Best trailerable sailboats, easy to launch trailerable sailboats, quick setup time, towing weight, catalina 22/25 “pop-top”, com-pac horizon cat for classic coastal cruising, marshall sanderling — small, portable, classy, west wight potter 19 — the tiny go-anywhere sailboat, seaward 26rk with retractable lead keel, corsair f-24 trimaran – sporty sailing, macgregor 26m — maximum speed meets maximum living space, long-range cruising boats, 7 best trailerable boats – a recap, what’s the best trailerable sailboat for a cruise, trailerable sailboats faqs.

• Catalina 22/25
• Com-Pac Horizon Cat
• Marshall Sanderling
• West Wight Potter 19
• Seaward 26RK
• Corsair F-24 Trimaran
• MacGregor 26M

We’ll get into more detail about each brand in my post today, so hang tight!

What Is a Trailerable Sailboat, Exactly?

For this article, the priorities for a trailerable sailboat are:

• Easy to launch
• Require minimum setup to launch and store
• Lightweight enough to be towed by the average vehicle

Before you can really classify a sailboat as trailerable, you need to evaluate and narrow your search criteria. Truthfully, 50-plus-foot ocean-going sailboats are regularly put on trailers. But that’s done commercially, on a big rig, with special permits for oversized loads, and even led cars.  

That probably isn’t what most people mean when they think of a trailerable sailboat. But what is the priority here, the trailerable part or the sailboat part? Compromises are going to have to be made somewhere. 

If you’re looking at the 20-foot-and-under sailboat crowd, finding a trailerable example should not be hard. Most sailboats this size are designed for trailers anyway since they aren’t the sort of boats people want to pay to leave in a slip year-round.

Things get more interesting when you look at the 20 to 30-foot boats. In this class, there are stout ocean-going cruisers with deep keels and lightweight centerboard trailer sailboats designed from the get-go to be trailered by the average car or SUV. The differences between these boats are night and day.

Sailboats often have a hard time at boat ramps. First, deep keels mean that the trailer must extend farther into the water than the average boat ramp allows. This means the ramp needs to go back far enough, and the trailer tongue needs to be long enough not to swamp the car. 

If you have a boat like this, you’ll need to find the right boat ramps. Unfortunately, not all ramps are created equally. If your boat draws more than two or three feet on the trailer, you’re going to be limited to steep, paved, and high-quality boat ramps. Unfortunately, those aren’t standard features, so your cruising grounds are going to be limited.

Usually, ramps aren’t built steeply because they are often slippery. Your tow vehicle will need excellent traction and torque to pull your fully loaded boat out of a steep ramp. The steeper the ramp, the more trouble you’ll have. 

The alternative to finding steep ramps is to use a trailer tongue extender. This lets you get the trailer into deeper water without swamping the tow vehicle. But it also means that the ramp needs to extend deep enough. Many ramps end abruptly. Allowing your trailer to sink off the edge is an excellent way to get stuck or pop a tire.

Pick a boat as easy to launch and retrieve as a similarly sized powerboat to remove all of these boat ramp problems. The soft chines of most sailboats will always require a little more water, but a swing keel and the hinged rudder raised mean that the boat can sit low on the trailer bunks. That way, you only need one or two feet of water to launch, an easy feat at nearly every boat ramp you can find.

The next consideration for a sailboat to be portable enough to call it “trailerable” is the amount of time it takes to step the mast and get it ready to cruise. 

To accomplish this, you need a mast that can be stepped by a two-person team–maximum. Ideally, it will have some tabernacle hardware to enable one person to do the task for solo sailing.

There is an entire family of pocket cruisers that could ideally fit on trailers. But you won’t find the Fickas or the Falmouth cutters on my list, simply because they aren’t easy to launch or easy to rig. But, of course, they’re also too heavy for most vehicles to tow, which leads us to the final point of excluding them this trailable pocket cruiser’s list.

One of the most significant financial burdens the trailer sailer faces is their tow vehicle. You are all set if you already drive a two-ton dually diesel pickup truck. But if your daily driver is an SUV or light pickup, you need to think long and hard about the math of the towing equation. 

Whatever boat you buy cannot exceed the towing rating limits of your tow vehicle. If you don’t have a tow vehicle, you’ll need to buy one. This will double or triple the cost of getting a trailer sailer in most cases. For the same money, you may want to look at a boat that stays in the water at a traditional boat slip. For the cost of a trailer sailer and a tow vehicle, you can probably step into a nice boat that is larger and more comfortable than any towable.

If you have a tow vehicle, you need a light enough vessel for it to tow. Most modern SUVs tow less than 2,500 pounds. Anything more than 5,000 will require a full-size pickup. Remember that the tow weight isn’t just the boat’s displacement—it’s the empty hull weight, plus the weight of the trailer and any extra gear you need to pack into the boat. 

Finding a vessel that fits these limitations on weight isn’t easy. If the manufacturer’s goal is to make it towable, immediate limits are placed on the materials they can use. This means less seaworthiness since boats are built light and thin. As far as stability goes, lead keels are generally out, and water ballast systems or centerboards might be used instead. It doesn’t mean these boats aren’t safe and fun, but they aren’t designed for rough conditions, crossing oceans, or living on in the water full-time .

7 Best Trailerable Cruising Sailboats

There are more trailerable sailboats out there than you might imagine. Here’s a look at seven popular options of all shapes and sizes to give you a taste of what you might want to take to sea.

The boats here are selected for their storage and living space. With these boats and a little outfitting, you can spend weeks gunk-holing in the Chesapeake Bay or island hopping the Bahamas. If you broaden your scope to include daysailers with no cabin space, there are countless more options.

One of the worst parts of a small trailerable sailboat or pocket cruiser is the lack of stand-up headroom. One clever solution that you’ll find on some weekend sailboat types is the pop-top. 

The pop-top is simply an area around the companionway hatch that extends upward on struts. So when you’re at the dock or anchor, you get standing headroom down below—at least right inside the pop-top.

You can build a canvas enclosure for your pop-top to use it in all weather. A pop-top makes your boat feel much larger than it is and allows you to move freely to cook or get changed down below or even do a nice boat bed area. 

Later models of the Catalina Sport 22 and Capri 22s lacked this cool pop-top feature, so if you want it, you’ll need to seek out an older model on the used market.

Com-Pac has been building small sailboats since the early 1970s. They currently sell two lines, each with various-sized boats. All are well built, and a majority of their boats are trailerable. 

Most interesting at the Com-Pac traditional catboats . The rigging is more straightforward than modern sloops, with only one large mainsail. Com-Pac boats come with a unique quick-rig system to make getting on the water fast and simple.

The Horizon Cat Coastal Cruising has a displacement of 2,500 pounds with a 2’2″ draft when the board is up. She has a separate head forward and space to lounge either topside or down below. The smaller Sun Cat has slightly few amenities but shaves off a few feet and pounds, making it easier to tow and it is one of these amazing small sailboats. Com-Pacs features stub keels, so their centerboard and hinged rudder do not take up space in the cabin.

On the sloop rig side, the Com-Pac 23 comes in a 3,000-pound traditional sailboat or a very interesting pilothouse. Both are incredibly livable for their size , with shallow two-foot-long fixed keels and high-quality construction.

Another option if you like catboats is the Marshall Sanderling. This salty 18-footer oozes traditional charm , all while being easy to sail and easier to tow. And while she has wooden boat lines, she has a modern laminated fiberglass hull.

The Sanderling has a 2,200-pound displacement, so tow weights will be around 3,000 pounds. At only 18-feet, she’s on the small side for cruising. The cuddy cabin has no galley, and the portable toilet is not enclosed. But that small size means a simple boat that’s easy to maintain and take anywhere. 

An electric motor package is an exciting option on this weekend sailboat!

View this post on Instagram A post shared by @marshallmarinecat

You can’t mention tiny trailer sailers without touching on the famous West Wight Potter . These 15 and 19-foot pocket cruisers have earned a worldwide reputation as the ultimate go-anywhere coastal cruiser.

The West Wight Potter 19 offers the most living space for staying aboard and cruising. So even though its dimensions are diminutive, this little boat packs a lot in. There’s a single burner hotplate and sink and a porta-potty tucked under a cushion. Yes, it’s tight—but the company claims the little boat can sleep five people. Any more than two will feel pretty crowded, however.

The boat comes standard with a mast-raising system that a single person can manage alone. It has a daggerboard for a shallow draft of a half-foot when the board is up. The total towing weight is around 1,500 pounds, which means nearly any car can tow a West Wight Potter.

This little-known trailer sailer is produced at the same Florida factory that makes Island Packet Yachts. That should give you a little bit of an idea of what sort of boat it is—trailerable, yes, but also high-quality, beautiful, and built for cruising. In other words, it’s one of the nicest all round pocket cruisers and it feels like a much larger boat.

The Seaward is easily the saltiest boat on this list . It’s beefy and seaworthy. Instead of a lightweight centerboard, Seaward fits the RK with a bulb-shaped retracting keel. Other big-boat items include a Yanmar diesel inboard motor and an enclosed head. The spacious cabin of the boat features a double berth and is ready for salt water cruising.

According to sailboatdata.com , the tow weight of the 26RK is 6,000 pounds. With the keel up, the draft is 1.25 feet.

Multihull sailors need not feel left out from the trailer sailer club and the pocket cruiser. Beyond the ubiquitous beach Hobie Cat, there are not many options for catamarans. But trimarans are uniquely suited to be towed.

Why? For one thing, performance oriented boats like trimarans are based on it being built light. There is no ballast—a trimaran’s stability comes from its two outer hulls. Additionally, the living space is entirely housed in the central hull–the outer floats are small and sometimes foldable. Finally, there are no keels on tris, so they are extremely shallow draft and perfect for trailering.

If you’re looking for adrenaline-pumping sporty and fun sailing, it’s impossible to beat what a trimaran will offer. Let’s not beat around the bush—most of the trailer sailers on this list have hull speeds around five knots. The Corsair has no such limits, routinely sailing at 15 knots or more .

The new Corsair 880 trimaran has an unloaded weight of 3,659 pounds. It is trailerable behind a big SUV or small pickup and is probably the most fun sailing option that is trailerable at all.

An even more portable option is the older Corsair F-24. It has a light displacement of under 2,000 pounds—so nearly any SUV can tow it.

MacGregor owns the market on trailerable motor sailers since they more or less created the product to fit the bill. The MacGregor 26 is not like other boats. The design combines a planing powerboat with a centerboard sailboat. Imagine scooting along at 20 knots or more when the wind is down or enjoying a sporty sail on a breezy day–in the same boat.

The entire boat is built from the ground up for towing and long-range sailing. So if you want a big sailboat that you can tow behind pretty much any SUV, the MacGregor has to be on your list. 

Depending on the model, the 26-foot-long boats have incredibly light dry weights of between 1,650 and 2,350 pounds. Considering the massive volume of the roomy cabin, the ability to tow such a large vessel opens up an entire world of opportunities for owners. 

It’s not all good news, of course. MacGregor owners love their boats, but they are built light and are not ideally suited for offshore cruising or rough weather. But in bays and for coastal sailing on nice days, few boats can get as much use as a MacGregor. 

The motorboat capability of the 26M and 26X might not appeal to hardcore sailors, but for those looking to maximize their use of the boat depending on the weather, their mood, or location, it makes a lot of sense. 

MacGregor shut down in 2015, but the daughter and son-in-law of the original owners took over production and renamed the boat the Tattoo 26 . The company will soon release a smaller version, the Tattoo 22 .

If the 26 is a bit big to make your list of best trailerable small sailboats, consider the smaller Powersailer 19. It’s nearly identical to the 26, just smaller and lighter.

View this post on Instagram A post shared by Dale Roddick (@droddick33)

What Do You Want Your Trailer Sailer To Do?

After you’ve settled on how you will tow and launch your trailer sailer, now it’s time to dream about what you want it to do. Where will it take you? 

The beauty of a towable boat is that you can travel anywhere. A boat in the water might take weeks or months to move a few hundred miles. But if you can attach it to your car and do 65 mph on the interstate, you could sail on the Pacific on Monday, the Gulf of Mexico on Wednesday, and the Atlantic on Friday.

We can divide our trailerable sailboats into three groups – daysailers, weekenders, and cruisers.

These are designed with open cockpits and no space to sleep. This is a majority of the sub-22-foot boats on the market. They are designed to be launched, play for the day, and return to the ramp or dock.

A weekender will have rudimentary sleeping facilities. Think of it as a floating tent—it’s not a five-star hotel, but you can sleep under the stars or get out of the rain. Conceivably you could stay aboard indefinitely, but it doesn’t have much room for gear. So most people are ready to get off after a day or two. 

A cruising boat has sleeping, cooking, and toilet facilities built-in. These might be small and simple, but in any quantity, they mean you can disconnect from shore for a long time. Unfortunately, squeezing all of this into a tow-friendly package isn’t easy, and very few boats do it well. 

The best trailer sailor for your adventures will depend on many factors. Like any boat, whatever you decide on will be a compromise – boats always are. But there are plenty of choices out there, no matter what size your tow vehicle is and no matter what sailing adventures you have in mind.

What size sailboat is trailerable?

Even large yachts are routinely transported by towing across land, so the question is more of how big a sailboat can you tow? Your tow vehicle will be the limiting factor. The upper limit for most large SUVs and trucks is usually a sailboat around 26 feet long.

Sailboats are generally very heavily built, with ballast and lead keels. Sailboats specifically made to be trailer sailers are lighter. They may use drainable water ballast tanks instead of fixed ballast and have fewer fixtures and amenities.

To find the best trailer sailer, you need to balance the total tow weight, the ease of rig setup at the boat ramp, and the boat’s draft. Shallow draft boats with centerboards are the easiest to launch and retrieve.

Is a Hunter 27 trailerable?

No. The Hunter 27 is a one of those fixed-keel larger boats built from 1974 to 1984. The boat’s displacement is 7,000 pounds, not including trailer and gear. That alone makes it too heavy to tow by all but the beefiest diesel trucks. 

Furthermore, the fixed keels had drafts between 3.25 and 5 feet, all of which are too much for most boat ramps. In short, the standard Hunter Marine 27 is too big to tow for most people.

On the other hand, Hunter has made several good trailer sailers over the years. For example, the Hunter 240 and 260 were explicitly designed for trailering. They have drainable water ballast and shallow keel/centerboard drafts less than two feet. 

Is a Catalina 22 trailerable?

Yes, the Catalina 22 is easily trailerable and makes a wonderful weekend sailboat. In fact, there were over 15,000 Catalina 22s made and sold over the years. 

The boat’s displacement is 2,250 pounds, which means your total tow weight with trailer and gear will be under 3,000 pounds. This is within the capabilities of most mid to full-size SUVs and light trucks. Be sure to check your vehicle’s towing capacity, of course.

The centerboard on the Catalina 22 is another factor in its easy towing. With the board up, the boat draws only two feet. This makes it easy to float off the trailer at nearly any boat ramp. You should avoid fixed keel versions of the 22 for towing unless you have access to extra deep ramps. 

Matt has been boating around Florida for over 25 years in everything from small powerboats to large cruising catamarans. He currently lives aboard a 38-foot Cabo Rico sailboat with his wife Lucy and adventure dog Chelsea. Together, they cruise between winters in The Bahamas and summers in the Chesapeake Bay.

Can someone tell me why no other manufacturer makes pop tops? Those who have them, love them. Makes sense for head space with a trailerable boat too. Catalina stopped making them decades ago, yet people still swear by them. So, why isn’t there any newer models?

MacGregor put pop tops on many of its trailerables

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Trailering a Boat: Step-by-Step Guide

Table of Contents

Last Updated on March 28, 2023 by Boatsetter Team

Tow Tow Tow Your Boat…

A trailer helps you get the most out of your boating experience. With a boat and trailer in tow, you can put your adventure on the road and explore just about any lake, river, bay, or inlet. Towing a boat is not difficult, but safety should always be a number-one concern. Follow these basic boat-towing tips to get started trailer-boating.

Post summary:

• Tow vehicles

Driving tips

Launching and retrieving.

Continue reading to catch all Pro Tips .

Rent, Charter, Share— Only at Boatsetter

Your tow vehicle

A safe towing experience begins with the tow vehicle. Even a small boat and trailer can significantly impact vehicle handling and performance.

• GCVW (Gross Combined Vehicle Weight) is critical. You can find this rating in your vehicle owner’s manual. The GCVW is the weight of the vehicle, its passengers, and its fuel and gear PLUS the weight of your boat (including fuel, water, and gear) on its trailer.

Pro Tip: Not every boat company publishes the combined weight of its boat and trailer combinations. The best way to accurately check GCVW is on a public scale at a truck stop or municipal facility.

• Ensure your vehicle is equipped with a hitch rated for the weight of your boat and trailer.
• Check tire pressure before every outing.

Your trailer

Basic trailer checks and maintenance will help ensure a safe tow down the road.

• Towing at speed with low trailer tire pressure can cause a tire to overheat and delaminate. Always check trailer tire pressure.

Pro Tip: Correct pressure can be found on a sticker or tag on the trailer frame. It will usually be much higher than your vehicle tire pressure.

• Check your trailer lights before every departure and at every stop along the way.
• Pressurized hubs protect trailer wheel bearings. Consult the trailer owner’s manual and add grease as required.
• Trailer brakes require periodic maintenance, which will be described in the trailer owner’s manual.
• Ensure your trailer coupler completely covers the ball of the hitch and is snapped shut and secured with a pin.

NEWS: JP Mancini II brings in $38,000 monthly renting out boats on Boatsetter

When towing a boat, your vehicle is heavier and longer than usual. You’ll need to adjust your driving dynamics.

• Your stopping distance will increase, so maintain a greater distance than normal when following other vehicles and begin slowing for turns and stops sooner.
• Pace your speed. Trying to tow at high freeway speeds may tax your tow vehicle, give you less time to react in an emergency, and increase your stopping distance.
• Swing wider in turns to keep your trailer from clipping curbs or obstacles close to the road or a driveway.
• Add wide-angle side mirrors to better view the trailer in turns and when backing and to cover your longer blind spots.
• Think ahead to avoid situations that will require you to back up. When pulling into a gas station or parking lot have an easy exit route in mind.

Time to put your boat in the water and start having fun. A good boat owner takes pride in appearing ship-shape at the ramp and contributing to efficiency.

Park in a designated staging area or out of the way of traffic to prepare your boat.

• Visit the pay station and take care of a launching fee if one is required.
• Install the boat drain plug.
• Check that the key is in the ignition. This would be a good time to bump the key into the “start” position to ensure you don’t have a dead battery.
• Load all your gear into the boat – fishing tackle, coolers, tubes, skis, etc.
• Attach fenders to the dock side of the boat.
• Remove the transom tie-down straps and the outboard motor brace if you use one.
• Attach dock lines to the bow and stern cleats.

Now you are ready to back down the ramp and launch.

• If someone is available to drive the boat off the trailer, that person can put on a PFD, get into the boat, and be ready to start the engine and pull away.
• Back down the ramp until the stern of the boat just begins to float off the trailer.
• Start the engine before releasing the boat from the trailer. This way, if your engine does not start, you can simply drive back up the ramp to troubleshoot.
• Either use dock lines to walk the boat down a dock and away from the launching area or have your driver move the boat out of the way. They may wait on the water while you park and pick you up from the end of the dock or move the boat away from the launch area and tie up.
• Drive up the ramp and park your vehicle and trailer. Time to go boating!

Reloading the boat on the trailer is simply the reverse of launching.

• Drop the vehicle driver and passengers off on a dock. If there’s a courtesy dock or dock away from the launch area, it’s OK to tie up while you wait for the trailer. If not, move the boat away from the ramp area and wait for the trailer to be backed down.
• If there is a line , the driver gets the vehicle in line to take a turn backing down the ramp.
• The boat driver needs to pay attention and be in a position to approach the ramp when the trailer is in the water.
• Load the boat on the trailer. Secure the winch at the bow and secure the safety chain. The boat driver can stay in the boat while you pull up the ramp.
• Drive to the staging area, or away from traffic, to unload coolers and gear from the boat, secure transom straps, check trailer lights, and get ready to hit the road.

Last Pro Tip

Put your boat to good use by listing it on Boatsetter , the #1 boat rental company. Boat owners on the platform earn an average of $20,000 annually by renting out their boats for half-day or full-day trips to qualified renters looking for a nice day out on the water.

Boat owners 700+ globally have been the backbone of this boat-sharing platform which carries  50,000 boats and 20,000 makes and models. Owners love Boatsetter. Renters love Boatsetter. Join the boat-sharing fab now and get in on this 21st-century opportunity!

About Boatsetter

Boatsetter is a unique boat-sharing platform that gives everyone — whether you own a boat or you’re just renting — the chance to experience life on the water. You can list a boat , book a boat , or make money as a captain .

List. Rent. Earn— Only at Boatsetter

Charles Plueddeman  is a self-employed writer and photographer based in Wisconsin. A staff editor and contributor to  Boating Magazine  since 1986, he is the author of its “Off My Dock” column. In the marine realm he specializes in engine technology and trailerable boats. His editorial work has appeared in many national publications, including  Popular Mechanics, Men’s Journal, Playboy, Popular Science, Cycle World,  and  Harley-Davidson Enthuisast .

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BOAT TOWING: A BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO TRAILERING A BOAT

Owning a trailerable boat is great: you get to choose where to go out on the water each time and you can take your vessel on holiday with you. The freedom it gives you beats the comfort of a bigger, non-trailerable, boat. Plus, you can tow your boat home at the end of the day, saving on boat storage costs.

BOAT TOWING: IS IT HARD?

Towing a boat isn’t difficult - you just need to get a hang of the basics. Driving your car with a trailer attached to it is a little different. 

Before you buy anything, check your vehicle’s towing capacity. Can it handle both a trailer and the boat of your dreams? Do you need to upgrade your car? Or can you make do with a lighter boat? Then, you’ll need to match a trailer and boat to your towing capacity. 

Next, you’ll want to familiarise yourself with how to drive a trailer. Practice turning and backing up with the trailer only, without any weight on it, first. 

Below are some tips for driving when towing a boat:

accelerate and brake slowly

stay as far as possible from other vehicles 

take corners at slow speed and wide angles

if you sense swaying in the rig, pull over and redistribute the weight

change lanes very slowly.

BOAT TOWING: HOW TO POSITION THE BOAT

When you’ve practiced driving the trailer around, it’s time to test your skills with the boat on it. 

When preparing the boat to be towed on the trailer,

centre the boat on the trailer and distribute the gear on board evenly

tie down all loose equipment on the boat

as you attach the trailer to your vehicle, crisscross the chains under the frame

tie down the boat using heavy-duty straps.

Before you get on the road, 

measure the trailer and boat to find out your new clearance

check the tire pressure

make sure the lug nuts are tight

check that the trailers’ lights work

adjust your side view mirrors

hitch the trailer to the car.

HOW TO BACK UP A BOAT TRAILER

This is the most difficult maneuvre you will need to perform when towing a boat. It’s not rocket science, though. You just need to get used to how the trailer responds to the car’s movement - you’ll need to learn the “S” turn.

Here are the steps to backing up a boat trailer in detail:

roll down your windows and ask someone to be your spotter

if you can, position the car and trailer perpendicular to the area you want to back up into

pull past the spot by 2.4 to 3m (8 to 10 ft) to give yourself enough space

once you’re in position, turn the steering wheel in the opposite direction of the spot

reverse slowly

gradually straighten the steering wheel while you keep reversing into the spot.

If the angle of the car or truck to the trailer becomes smaller than a right angle, straighten the wheel, go forward a little, and try again. 

HOW TO LAUNCH A BOAT FROM A TRAILER

It’s important you park somewhere near the ramp and get ready there. Otherwise, you might do things in a hurry at the ramp and forget something. Or you could make a fellow boater wait a long time to use the ramp - not cool.

Before you get to the ramp, 

check that the drain plug is installed,

put the boat key in the ignition, 

load all your gear onto the boat

place fenders around the boat

tie dock lines to the bow and stern cleats

unplug the trailer’s lights

free the boat from most of the straps that are holding it down.

Once you’re ready:

back the trailer into the ramp slowly

correct as you go using the side view mirrors

keep reversing until the stern of the boat starts to float 

stop the car and pull on the hand (parking) brake

free the boat from all straps that tie it down

allow someone to climb on board, if they’ll need to drive off with the boat

release the trailer winch and safety chain

get a hold of the bow and stern lines

using the bow line, pull the boat to slide it off the trailer

if you’re onboard, lower the outdrive or outboard and start the engine

pull the boat onto the dock using the lines and secure it, or drive it off.

At this point, once the boat is either being driven out to sea or well-secured to the dock, you can drive your vehicle off and park it.

HOW TO RETRIEVE A BOAT AND LOAD IT ONTO A TRAILER

Once you’re done boating, you’ll need to retrieve the boat and load it back onto the trailer. Here’s how to do it:

if you’re alone, tie the boat to a dock and go get the trailer

if you’re with friends, allow them off the boat to go get the trailer

idle up to the ramp and wait

when you see the trailer getting to the ramp, start getting in position

line the trailer up straight, inside the water, so the boat can float onto it

wait until the car is still and the hand (parking) break is engaged

the driver should hop on the trailer tongue or step into the water to help you

idle the boat over the bunks, aligning the bow peak with the trailer bow stop

lift your outboard or sterndrive

when the bow bumps the bow stop, clip the winch strap to the bow eye

using the winch, pull the boat up

if the boat isn’t straight, back the car down the ramp, so it can float and centre itself

secure the safety chain

pull the trailer up the ramp

park somewhere out of the way to prepare the boat for the car trip.

If it’s windy, watch out for other boats and approach the trailer upwind. You may need to up the revs a little to get into position.

As you can see, there is nothing difficult about towing and trailering a boat, you just need to get used to it. Once you’ve done it a few times, it will become second nature.

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Towing a boat: how to tow and be towed

• James Stevens
• August 22, 2021

When a boat needs towing, cruising yachts are often among the first on the scene. James Stevens explains how best to go about towing a boat

Knowing how best to tow a boat on the water (as opposed to towing a boat on a trailer ) is not necessarily something that occurs to most yachtsmen. But knowing how to do it is still a key seamanship skill, and anyone listening to VHF Ch16 in the summer months will hear a good number of boats, of various descriptions, requesting assistance.

Whether it’s towing a dinghy, a small motor boat with engine problems, or another yacht in difficulty, cruising yachts can often be the first on the scene to lend a hand, at least until other help arrives.

Towing is incredibly simple in principle – just attach a line between two boats and off you go – but it is not always so straightforward, and mistakes can be costly. The weather and sea state make a huge difference, changing an easy process into one that can be difficult and possibly dangerous.

Helping a boat in distress

Some of the best boat handlers I have ever examined at yachtmaster and instructor levels are tug drivers. They have an ingrained ability to sense the effect the huge tension on the towline is having on the tug and the grave danger if the tug ends up beam-on to the line under tension. As a result their boat handling under power is first class.

For yacht skippers, apart from tenders, towing is a rare event and usually involves assisting a fellow yacht; not as hazardous as a tug towing a ship, of course, but it can still be difficult, especially in the open sea.

Towing a yacht is done to get them home following a problem caused by engine failure or some other non-urgent inconvenience.

If you come across a yacht in distress your primary obligation is to save the people on board rather than the yacht, although this might be achieved by towing the yacht away from danger. In a rough sea it’s probably going to be a difficult and possibly dangerous manoeuvre, so standing by until the rescue services arrive might be more appropriate.

In less urgent situations you have to weigh up whether your yacht is capable of taking on a tow. Towing a larger yacht in calm water for a short distance is relatively easy. If there is no wind or tidal stream and the sea is flat you can safely tow a yacht twice your size.

In the open sea with a swell and wind it is best not to attempt towing vessels larger than your own. Again you might have to stand by until help arrives.

What’s the difference between Salvage and Towage

Legally a towing vessel can claim salvage if the tow has been rescued from danger with no pre-agreed terms. Alternatively towage is where there is a prior agreement between tug and tow.

Legally it does not matter who passes the towline. Insurance policies vary on whether they cover salvage and towage.

By accepting a tow on any vessel I think a skipper is not in a position to start telling the tow where they are going to end up; that is a decision for the towing vessel to make. Also by accepting a tow a skipper should realise it is a considerable favour for any towing vessel to make and be gracious and generous afterwards.

If a tow is in response to a Coastguard request, the Coastguard will need to be kept informed. They will ask you to provide details for their records, but don’t let yourself become distracted from the task at hand. Tell them you will call them back if you are busy and focus on the situation in front of you first!

Throwing a heaving line

Setting up for towing a boat

Throwing a heaving line is the safest way of making contact.

It has to be very calm to come alongside in order to pass the towline by hand. In any kind of sea the rigging is going to get tangled if you get too close. Remember heaving lines only go downwind.

Hopefully the crew of the towed vessel will understand that the actual towline will be on the end of the heaving line when they have pulled it in, although it’s surprising how many crew cleat the heaving line and signal they’re ready to go.

A heaving line is a light line with a soft weight on the end; traditionally a monkey’s fist knot. The length is usually a total of about 10m.

Many yachts have a heaving line with a quoit or weighted bag attached for man overboard emergencies. It will go further if you throw overarm but it takes a little practice to master the technique.

To attach the heaving line to the thicker towline you should use a double sheet bend. Both working ends should emerge from the same side to make the bend more stable.

How to set up a tow for a boat

The traditional way of attaching the tow is with a bridle. This is a line led from one quarter to the other to which the towline is attached via a bowline around the bridle line.

Use a bridle to allow the tow rope to move

The reason for this is first to allow a quick release by dropping one side of the bridle, and secondly the bowline will slip to one side as the towing boat turns, assisting the turn.

Commercial tugs attach the towline forward of the pivot point making manoeuvring much easier. On a yacht the pivot point going ahead is usually near the leading edge of the keel, so attaching the tow forward is normally impossible.

For tows of short duration the towline can be attached to the bridle with a bowline, but if the yachts are in for the long haul, chafe is a problem and a double sheet bend is the best connection.

On the towing yacht, it is worth spreading the load of the bridle via the stern cleats to the primary winches and other strong points on the boat.

Most of a sea tow will be in a straight line but the length of one side of the bridle can be adjusted to assist steering if necessary – adding more weight to the side you want to turn towards is much the same as one of the methods for steering after rudder failure, so works well, and might help stop the bows being blown off course.

How to prepare to be towed on your boat

The towed crew need to organise themselves to attach the towline securely especially if there is a protracted tow ahead.

Sharing the load between strong points, minimising chafe and avoiding weaker fittings, is key. Use the winches if possible by leading a bridle aft from the bow, via the midships cleats and to the cockpit winches.

The foredeck anchor windlass ought to be a strong point but on some modern yachts it will not be tough enough for the job on its own, as the deck below may have insufficient strengthening for the potential shock loads of a tow at sea.

The towline should be attached to the bridle in such a way that it can be easily released. A bridle that passes from the cockpit winches, all the way to the bow cleats and back to the cockpit can be released from the cockpit, providing the towline was tied in a bowline around the bridle.

If you have used two lines from the cockpit as we did, we found that using a round turn and two half hitches meant we could release the tow line when it was under load.

The rougher the sea the longer the towline should be. A towline which continually snatches puts huge stresses on both yachts.

Snubbing can be reduced by using chain for at least part of the towline, even attaching the towline to the anchor and paying out anchor chain is possible – only in deep water of course.

Other items such a jerry can of water, placed part way along the tow line, could be used to induce catenary in the tow line and reduce snatching.

Towing a boat u nderway

It’s crucial the towed vessel steers to follow to avoid sheering and adding significant strain to the tow. Towing is most difficult downwind in rough conditions.

Towing is much more difficult in rough conditions

Once both yachts are accelerating and decelerating on waves this is challenging to say the least. The towing yacht has to maintain enough speed to avoid being overtaken.

The best prevention in this situation is to have a tow line long enough to keep the boats more than one wavelength apart. That way, if the towed boat does accelerate, it still has another wave ahead of it before hitting the towing vessel.

In this situation it is essential to have a radio or phone connection. The towed yacht can stream a drogue or a long bight of rope to help slow it down. A bucket can be used providing it is not the usual sort with a handle which falls off in a few seconds.

If it is all proving too difficult it may be worth rethinking the destination or tacking downwind, steering a more oblique angle to the waves, and thereby reducing acceleration of the towed vessel down the faces of the waves.

Towing upwind puts more strain on the towline, deck fittings and the towing yacht’s engine but the tow is generally more stable. You will need to reduce speed to a point where both vessels feel comfortable, while still making progress to windward.

As usual it is essential to keep a good watch both ahead, on the towline and on the course. Towing is not a good time to make a navigational error or wrap a lobster pot line round the prop.

Make sure you have enough line out to avoid collisions

Avoiding collisions when towing a boat

No day shapes are required for tows under 200m. Over 200m both the towing vessel and the towed vessel should display a diamond shape. Avoid towing a boat at night. Showing the lights of a tug might prove difficult, but have a torch ready to scare off vessels.

At night tugs have distinctive lights to minimise the danger of vessels crossing the towline. If the tow is under 200m the towing vessel should show two masthead lights in a vertical line. There should therefore be an extra light with the same arc of visibility as the usual one used for night motoring.

A tow of over 200m requires three white lights on the mast. There should also be a yellow towing light above the sternlight. Turning on the normal steaming lights and the anchor light at the masthead is fine from the bow but puts a white light above the sternlight.

Reaching port

Once you have reached sheltered water, slow down and shorten the tow. At this stage you may want to ask the marina launch or harbour master to take over as their boat may be better suited to the task.

Whether that is not possible or not, the best plan is to opt for an alongside tow.   Setting it up correctly is crucial to manoeuvrability.

It might be best to tow alongside in busy ports

Opt for an alongside tow in busy waters

Once you arrive in the congested waters of a harbour you need greater control of the tow – and importantly the ability to slow down easily.

The alongside tow allows you to position the disabled boat on a pontoon which is probably best for any repairs.

Think carefully about which side is best for the tow, bearing in mind what the wind and tide are doing on the mooring or pontoon at the final destination. The tug will need to be on the outside when you come alongside.

Utilise bow and stern lines

Use plenty of fenders and position the tug so the pivot point of the combined vessels is well forward of the propeller and rudder of the tug.

This usually means the tug is positioned on the towed vessel’s quarter with the prop and rudder of the tug behind the transom of the tow. Use bow and stern lines to keep them parallel, or slightly bows in.

The spring from the towed vessel’s stern to the tug’s bow will take the weight of the tow, and the spring from the towed vessel’s bow to the tug’s stern will stop the towed vessel surging ahead when slowing down.

Steering the alongside tow

The tug must steer, but the towed vessel can assist. With the tug’s rudder far enough aft and plenty of throttle, turning either way is possible, but it is much easier to turn towards the towed vessel.

Conversely when the tug goes astern to slow down at the destination, the tow will rotate towards the tug’s side. Unsurprisingly the stopping distance is much longer so take it slowly. The helm of the tug may not be able to see clearly all round so keep communicating between tug and tow.

Problems with towing a boat

So far we have only considered towing when the crew of the towed vessel are capable of assisting.

In the open sea the towed crew might be incapacitated. In this case the towing yacht will have to put a crew member on board, preferably with a handheld radio. The Coastguard will need to be informed.

Towing becomes much harder if the towed yacht has steering failure. The most difficult yacht to tow is one with a fin keel and hanging rudder where the rudder is unusable. They sheer badly, making progress very slow and hazardous with a risk of the towed vessel becoming swamped.

The only solution is to stream a drogue aft of the tow. This will of course slow down the tow but should make it more manageable.

There have also been incidents of yachts being towed by commercial vessels sinking under tow. If this happens it is because the yacht was being towed too fast, or the crew were taken off the yacht for safety, but leaving the towed vessel without steerage.

Towing a boat under sail

Generally towing under sail is much harder than towing under engine, and if it’s a real rescue situation, you will probably choose the most effective and timely way to resolve the situation.

For a prolonged tow, however, using your sails may add to your horsepower, which isn’t really suited to heavy towing work, to save fuel, or to avoid rope in the water near the propeller.

Towing under sail is best reaching or downwind. Upwind you may find you have significantly increased leeway

Of course, you don’t want to exceed a comfortable speed for the vessel being towed, but it can help.

It is worth noting that with the wind aft of the beam, you should be able to sail reasonably well, potentially just under genoa so that you don’t need to round up to hoist or lower the main.

Upwind, however, you may well be going slower than normal and you will experience much more leeway. This is exacerbated by having lines attached to your stern, which makes it harder to head up into the wind.

With the helm down to leeward, you will only make more leeway until you bear away enough to build sufficient speed to reduce leeway again.

In terms of setting up the tow under sail, very little changes. If anything, it is more important to move the attachment point for your bridle further forward to maintain manoeuvrability and to increase the length of the tow or the weight on the line to make the tow as smooth as possible.

Realistically this is best done on a reach. Upwind the drag will cause so much leeway and it will be impossible to point anywhere near your normal wind angle. Directly downwind with the main up it is difficult to adjust speed which is sometimes necessary to do if the sea conditions are rough.

The extra drag of the tow means you will need power, so hoisting both the main and the jib is usually the best option.

If conditions are difficult for hoisting the main then opting for motor sailing with the jib might give more control.

Towing a RIB or small powerboat

Small powerboats that carry only one engine can be vulnerable if they have engine failure. Mostly they tend not to venture too far out to sea so efforts to help them shouldn’t take too long, but if they are close to shore, time can be of the essence if they are drifting towards a lee shore.

RIBS usually have a V-shaped hull and a securing point below the sponson on the bow. This strong point is for recovery on to the trailer but makes a handy attachment for towing.

Thanks to their hull shape, RIBs tow well but they can also be towed alongside

RIBs tow reasonably well even with the engine raised, thanks to the increased drag of the sponsons towards the stern of the boat, but they can still start sheering when the V-bow digs in and pushes the bow one way. If this happens, lowering the outboard will increase drag aft.

Other small, light GRP powerboats with planing hulls are notoriously difficult to tow due to their sharp bows and flat aft hull sections, giving them a pivot point very close to the bow at displacement speeds. Keeping the outboard down helps and having someone on board steering is useful too.

Try to keep the weight aft to keep the bow out of the water and the stern pushed down to prevent sheering.

A bridle is useful on both vessels, if only to provide a quick release if they sheer into a position where the tow is pulling from the beam instead of ahead.

Towing a sailing dinghy

A group of dinghies at sea is usually part of a club or sailing school and will normally have a safety boat afloat nearby. However there are plenty of hardy souls who cruise in dinghies, some covering substantial distances.  Frank Dye sailed a 4.8m Wayfarer dinghy from Scotland to Norway and Iceland.

A dinghy will need the skipper to remain in the boat to steer

When becalmed, almost all dinghy sailors have accepted a tow at some time, certainly all those who have been to a sailing school or club. They will therefore know what to do if passed a towline. Many yacht skippers have sailed dinghies too and know the score.

Traditional dinghies such as the Wayfarer may need bailing after a capsize but most have a self-bailing system which, once underway, clears the water quite quickly.

Modern skiff dinghies with no transom hold very little water so they drain almost instantly under tow, but because they are designed to use the crew weight for stability they capsize very easily if there is no one on board, so at least the helmsman must stay on board at the stern to steer. Even then it can be slow and difficult. Safety boats overcome this problem by towing alongside with the racks or overhanging gunwale resting on the sponson.

On board the dinghy the tow line is fixed to a strong point, usually the mast, and led through a bow fairlead if there is one. The main is lowered and the jib too, if possible. Daggerboard or centreboard must be lifted up and secured so it can’t slip down. While a tiny amount of centreboard may help with steerage, under tow the dinghy can easily ‘trip’ over the centreboard or the bow digging in. If the dinghy sheers off to one side, it is highly liable to capsize.

The helm should sit astern to keep the weight aft and the bow up. They will need to balance the dinghy to keep it level and steer to follow the towing boat.

The dinghy crew can drink tea on the yacht, leaving the helm to steer to follow the yacht’s transom. If the dinghy is being towed with no crew on board, the centre-board should be secured fully up and the helm tied amidships with the rudder down.

Towing a tender

We have all towed inflatable tenders easily enough but even that can go wrong. If the weather is rough, or even just windy, inflatable dinghies can flip; this is bad enough if there are oars and other kit inside but it gets expensive if there is an outboard on the stern.

Towing a tender is something most sailors will be familiar with

It makes sense to adjust the length of the towline so the dinghy is riding up the wave astern rather than riding down it. Rather obviously the painter needs to be cleated securely and gathered in when the yacht slows down and goes astern or the dinghy will end up moored to the prop.

Pumping up a dinghy takes about five minutes, so it is worth considering whether towing a dinghy is going to slow your passage by more than that. Alternatively, if you are going to tow under sail, it’s worth removing the outboard and any other loose kit before setting off.

Many dinghies will also be small enough to stow on the foredeck, where they can be lashed down securely, which is arguably safer for the dinghy and less detrimental to boat speed for the cost of very little effort.

Towing kayaks 

Sea kayakers usually keep close to the shore or are mostly resilient and strong enough to reach their destination without help.

If inexperienced paddlers end up in the open sea there is trouble ahead. The most notorious example of this was in 1993 when four children attending an outdoor activity centre in Lyme Bay drowned on a kayaking trip when their instructors lost control of the group.

You can tow a kayak but it might be preferable to bring them and their kayak onboard

The problem with rescuing a kayaker from a yacht is the height of the yacht’s topsides. If the kayaker can still paddle it is best to stop beam on to the sea and beckon them into your lee.

If you can, secure a ladder over the side, if not, have a couple of ropes with bowlines to hang on to.

As the kayak approaches do not attempt to take away the paddle – it is what stops them inverting and staying there. Once they have taken hold of the ladder they can probably work out how to get up it. Ask their advice and use your knowledge of MOB recovery.

Towing a kayak is almost impossible so it will have to be lifted on deck. This can be difficult if it is full of water.

A sea kayak usually has bow and stern handles and a watertight compartment at each end so it is easier to lift than a standard kayak which has no bulkheads. On board a RIB a kayak is retrieved by rolling it horizontally to remove the water, then sliding it over the sponson. Trying to retrieve a kayak horizontally from a yacht is really difficult, especially if there is a swell and the yacht is shorthanded.

If it is retrieved vertically there will be water in it and if this is removed by levering it over the guardrail the whole kayak might split. The kayaker may be able to help and advise, but if you have an aft bathing platform, this may make the process much easier.

Paddleboards and sit-on kayaks are usually retrieved on to the deck of a yacht rather than towed.

Towing a jet-ski or personal watercraft

I realise most yacht skippers would rather unblock the heads than tow a jet-skier but as fellow water users we would of course give assistance to someone who needed it, regardless of vessel.

Jet-skiers usually travel around in groups so they can help each other and it may interest yacht skippers to know that a surprisingly large number of them are qualified. The main reason jet-skiers need a tow is running out of fuel, but there can also be problems if the rider gets separated from the jet-ski in windy weather when the craft gets blown away downwind. So if you find a jet-ski without a rider, inform the Coastguard and start searching for the rider upwind.

Jet-skis, or more accurately, personal watercraft, have a towing point on the bow and because the weight of the engine is low down they tow reasonably well at fairly slow speed, even without the rider, who might appreciate being taken out of the wind.

Because a jet-ski is steered by a water jet, steering under tow would not make any difference.

Enjoyed reading How to tow a boat – or be towed – out of trouble?

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13 Biggest Trailerable Sailboats: Cheap But Good

If you're looking for a sailboat that's easy to transport and store, trailerable sailboats are the way to go. These vessels provide the perfect balance between portability and performance if you want the flexibility to explore various destinations without the hassle of marina storage fees or dependence on docking facilities.

The biggest trailerable sailboats that are cost-effective and good are:

MacGregor 26

Catalina 22, san juan 21, precision 21, com-pac horizon cat, seaward 26rk, beneteau first 235, west wight potter 19, cape dory 28, marshall sanderling, islander 24.

These 13 sailboats are all relatively lightweight and compact. Generally, a mid-size SUV or pickup truck with a towing capacity of 3,500 to 5,000 pounds should be sufficient to tow most of these sailboats.

• Smaller trailerable boats are perfect for relaxed weekend outings, while larger ones are suited for extended coastal cruising.
• Among the list, Cape Dory 28 is the largest, widest, and heaviest trailerable sailboat.
• Most of these sailboats can accommodate 4 to 6 people onboard.
• The not-so-cheap item on the list, the Seaward 26RK, costs between $30,000 and $50,000.

On this page:

Biggest trailerable sailboats, the size of sailboat you can trailer, what makes a good, cheap, and big trailerable sailboat.

The MacGregor 26 offers a hybrid between a sailboat and a powerboat. It can reach high speeds with an outboard engine. The boat’s water ballast system enhances stability, and its spacious layout makes it suitable for family outings or exciting weekend getaways.

The MacGregor 26 is 26 feet long and weighs around 2,500 lbs, and is best suited for calm or moderate conditions. Retractable keel and rudder allow it to be easily trailered and launched in shallow waters.

MacGregor 26 is one of the 7 trailerable sailboats that have standing headroom . It's also listed as one of the 13 popular trailerable sailboats with lifting keels .

The Catalina 22 is a popular, affordable, and versatile option for any sailor. Known for its easy handling and stability, it makes the perfect entry-level choice for those new to sailing and experienced sailors alike. With a retractable keel, you can easily tow it and enjoy sailing in various water conditions.

Catalina 22 is 22 feet long, weighs around 2,500 lbs, and is best suited for coastal cruising. Spacious cockpit and comfortable cabin make it a popular choice for day sailing and weekend trips. Swing keel allows it to be easily trailered and launched in a variety of locations.

The Hunter 23 is 23 feet long and weighs around 2,500 lbs. It is designed to be easy to handle and maintain, with a simple rigging system and user-friendly features. It is a stable and reliable boat that can handle a range of conditions, although it is best suited for coastal cruising. Water ballast system provides stability and performance under sail. Easy to trailer and launch.

The San Juan 21 is 21 feet long and weighs around 1,300 lbs. The San Juan 21 is a simple and easy-to-use boat that is well-suited for beginners or casual sailors. The San Juan 21 is a stable and reliable boat that can handle a range of conditions, although it is best suited for coastal cruising. It's a simple and affordable option for exploring coastal waters.

The Precision 21 is 21 feet long and weighs around 1,900 lbs. It is designed to be easy to handle and maintain, with a simple rigging system and user-friendly features. The Precision 21 is a stable and reliable boat that can handle a range of conditions, although it is best suited for coastal cruising. Modern design with high-aspect ratio keel and rudder for excellent performance under sail. It has comfortable cabin and enough storage space.

What's the Largest Sailboat You Can Trailer?

Enjoy classic coastal cruising with the Com-Pac Horizon Cat. This charming catboat is renowned for its simplicity, ease of sailing, and unique gaff-rigged sail. With plenty of room in the cockpit and a cozy cabin below, the boat makes for enjoyable days out on the water. Shallow draft allows it to be easily trailered and launched in shallow waters. It is 20 feet long, weighs around 2,500 lbs.

The O'Day 240 is a popular choice for many sailors because of its exceptional handling and trailering abilities. It has a shoal draft keel for shallow water sailing and is relatively easy to maneuver. Its design ensures both performance and comfort on the water. Roomy cabin with amenities including a galley and a head. Swing keel allows it to be easily trailered and launched in a variety of locations. It is 24 feet long, weighs around 3,200 lbs, and is best suited for coastal cruising.

The Seaward 26RK is an innovative boat with a retractable lead keel. This feature allows you to adjust the boat's draft, making it suitable for sailing in shallow waters. Its modern design offers comfort and performance, with a roomy interior and excellent sailing characteristics. It is 26 feet long, weighs around 4,000 lbs, and is designed for offshore sailing.

The Seaward 26RK is a high-quality sailboat with performance under sail and comfortable cabin. Retractable keel and rudder allow it to be easily trailered and launched in shallow waters.

The Beneteau First 235 is 23 feet long and weighs around 3,600 lbs. It is designed to be easy to handle and maintain, with user-friendly features such as a roller furling jib and a self-bailing cockpit. The Beneteau First 235 is a stable and reliable boat that can handle a range of conditions, including offshore sailing. It's a high-performance sailboat designed for racing and cruising. Deep keel and large sail plan provide excellent performance under sail. It has comfortable cabin with amenities.

If you're looking for a compact sailboat, the West Wight Potter 19 is an ideal choice. This small sailboat is very portable, easy to rig, and can go nearly anywhere. With a fully-retracting keel and rudder, the Potter 19 can be easily launched from a trailer and is perfect for weekend getaways.

The West Wight Potter 19 is well-suited for beginners or casual sailors, and can handle a range of conditions, although it is best suited for coastal cruising. The boat has a small cabin and limited storage space, but is relatively easy to assemble and launch, and is built with durable materials.

The Cape Dory 28 is another fantastic choice for a full-keel, trailerable sailboat. Known for its solid construction, seagoing capabilities, and classic design, it provides a great sailing experience for anyone looking for a larger, more capable boat that can still be towed.

The Cape Dory 28 is designed to be easy to maintain, with user-friendly features such as a roller furling jib and a self-bailing cockpit. The boat is stable and reliable, and can handle a range of conditions, including offshore sailing. It has a comfortable cabin and adequate storage space, and is relatively easy to assemble and launch, with a simple rigging system and straightforward instructions.

The Marshall Sanderling is a classic, portable, and elegant catboat. Featuring a single gaff-rigged sail, it's known for its easy handling and stability in various conditions. Its modest draft allows you to sail in shallow waters, and the traditional wooden mast adds charm to this timeless boat. It is a simple and easy-to-use boat that is well-suited for beginners or casual sailors. It is 18 feet long, weighs around 1,500 lbs, and is stable and reliable, although best suited for coastal cruising.

The Islander 24 is a versatile trailerable sailboat for day sailing or overnight trips. This boat offers a good balance of sailing performance, onboard comfort, and ease of trailering. With its retractable centerboard, it's perfect for sailing in shallow waters or cruising in deeper conditions. It has a comfortable cabin with enough storage space. Swing keel allows it to be easily trailered and launched in a variety of locations.

The Islander 24 is 24 feet long, weighs around 3,000 lbs, and is designed to be easy to handle and maintain, with user-friendly features such as a roller furling jib and a self-bailing cockpit. It is also stable and reliable, although best suited for coastal cruising.

You can trailer sailboats that are around 30 feet or less in length and have a beam (width) of 8.5 feet or less, with a standard trailer and towed by a vehicle with a towing capacity of 3,500 to 5,000 pounds.

Sailboats that are trailerable typically range in size from 14 feet to 30 feet in length. However, the actual size of the sailboat that can be trailed will depend on the towing vehicle's capacity and the trailer's design.

It is important to check the specific regulations and requirements in your area before attempting to trailer a sailboat.

Here are a few elements to keep in mind so you can ensure that your chosen boat not only suits your needs but is also budget-friendly and easy to transport:

Size and weight

A boat that is easy enough to tow—usually, sailboats up to 27 feet in length can be trailered safely on the roads. Keep in mind the weight restrictions of your towing vehicle, as well as the boat's beam and overall height .

This not only affects its towing requirements and ease of handling on the water, but also has implications for storage, maintenance, launching, and recovery. It's optimal to choose a sailboat that will fit your needs but is also light enough to tow with your vehicle and can be easily launched and retrieved.

Ease of assembly and disassembly

Consider how easy it will be to step the mast, rig the sails, and set up any other required equipment each time you want to take your sailboat out on the water. A boat with a simple and efficient assembly process will enable you to spend more time sailing and less time setting up.

A good trailerable sailboat should offer features that make it easy to transport, like a retractable or lifting keel , mast raising system , and simple rigging . These features simplify the process of prepping your boat for travel and minimize the time needed to set it up for sailing once you arrive at your destination.

A high-quality, well-built boat will not only last longer, but will also require less maintenance in the long run. Keep an eye out for boats made of durable materials like fiberglass and aluminum , with well-designed hulls and rigging systems that can withstand regular use and exposure to harsh weather and water conditions.

Seaworthiness

Even though you're looking for a budget-friendly option, make sure the boat is seaworthy and safe. A well-designed hull , sturdy construction , and manageable sail plan are characteristics of a good, cheap, and big trailerable sailboat.

Functionality

Think about your needs and sailing preferences. Do you plan to sail mostly on weekends, or are you looking forward to longer cruising trips? The interior space , storage capacity , and available amenities on your boat should match your sailing objectives.

Last but not least, make sure you find a boat that fits your budget. There are plenty of used boats on the market that can provide good value for money. In this list, you can find the best deal for a trailerable sailboat that meets all the criteria mentioned above.

While it can be tempting to opt for the least expensive option, it’s essential to weigh the cost with features like ease of assembly, durability, and size. A slightly more expensive sailboat may save you money in the long run if it requires less frequent repairs and is easier to set up and use. Finding a balance between quality and affordability will ensure you make a smart investment in a sailboat that suits both your budget and your sailing needs.

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Mention a skipper's boat, and he or she is liable to talk about itsgraceful sheer, its quickness, the way it handles, or the clever use of space below.

Mention a trailer, and the first thing that comes to mind is convenience. While the marina-based boat is restricted by time, distance, and the weather, a trailered boat can be transported just about anywhere—lakes, oceans, bays, or inlets--in the span of a weekend. Hurricane coming? Put the boat on its trailer and head inland. Too cold? Head south.

But convenience is only part of a trailer’s appeal. When you consider the money saved on slip fees, bottom paint, and blister repairs, it’s easy to understand why trailer boating is so popular.

Boating on a highway, like boating on the water, requires some attentiveness and know-how. That’s what this brochure is all about. Boats go aground in the water. Boats can also “go aground” on a highway. Negotiating stoplights, potholes, slick spots, and manic vacation traffic while towing a cumbersome trailer and boat takes practice.

Trailers, like boats and automobiles, require TLC to keep them rolling. But no amount of maintenance will help a trailer that is too small, or otherwise inadequate, for the boat it will be towing. The first step, then, is to choose a trailer that is most likely to get you and your boat where you want to go, despite potholes and vacation traffic.

Part I: Selecting a Trailer

With a modern boat, the choice of a trailer is often left to the dealer, which means bunkers or rollers will be positioned properly to provide maximum support. It is a no muss, no fuss deal for the buyer. He or she has to rely on the trailer dealer, however, and dealers have been known to unload inventory that may not be entirely suited to your needs. In this case, it helps to know what your needs will be and what options are available to meet those needs.

Trailer Size

After spending a small fortune to buy the boat of your dreams, it may be tempting to skimp a little on the trailer. Don’t. A trailer that is too small is more than just an inconvenience, it’s dangerous. Federal law requires that a trailer display its GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating), which is the total weight the trailer is rated to carry, including the boat, engine, gasoline (six pounds per gallon), water (eight pounds per gallon) and gear.

Some experts suggest that as a margin of safety the total weight of the boat and gear be no more than 85% of the trailer’s GVWR. Don’t confuse the GVWR with the GAWR, which is the load carrying capacity of an axle - its Gross Axle Weight Rating. On single axle trailers, the GVWR and the GAWR are the same. For tandem-axle trailers, the GVWR is equal to twice the GAWR.

Single vs. Tandem-Axle

While they cost more and require more upkeep, boat owners who have traded-up to tandem axle trailers almost always report that they are pleased with the results, especially with larger boats. For one thing, tandem trailers handle better, with better tracking and less tendency to fishtail. The extra wheels also mean a much smoother ride and safer handling in the event of a blowout. The size of the tires—larger is better—also contributes to the smoothness of the ride. It is usually easier to find replacements for larger tires, although you shouldn’t make the mistake of substituting an automobile tire for a trailer tire. Trailer tires have thicker sidewalls.

Submersible or Float-on Trailers vs. Roll-Off Trailers

Submersible trailers, which allow the boat to float free when the trailer is submerged, have the advantage of being easier to use, at least for beginners. The disadvantage is that submersible trailers require more upkeep and a steeper ramp for launching. Some trailers tilt to create a steeper launch angle but are usually unwieldy for all but the smallest boats.

Roll-off trailers may be easier to maintain, but they are also more expensive-about 20% more. And for the inexperienced trailer owner, roll-off trailers can be more difficult to use. A skipper in Michigan who said he had used a submersible trailer several times still managed to do several hundred dollars worth of damage to his new boat when it rolled too quickly off his new trailer and bashed onto the concrete ramp in shallow water. As a general rule, rollers make launching and retrieving easier, while pads provide better support for the boat. Many trailers now use a combination of pads (at chines) and rollers (at keels) to optimum advantage.

Paint vs. Galvanized

Many manufacturers offer a choice of a galvanized steel or painted steel trailers. The painted trailers are fine for freshwater but are vulnerable to corrosion in saltwater. Galvanized trailers cost slightly more, but require less maintenance, especially if they will be dunked in saltwater.

Painted trailers are sometimes painted to match the boat, which is nice. With galvanized trailers, one expert suggests painting it with bright colors, especially colors that clash, so that it will be easy to identify. Not a bad idea. The BoatU.S. Marine Insurance claim files have shown that a boat on a trailer is far more likely to be stolen. If you were a crook, which trailer would you steal: one that looks like every other trailer on the road or one that looks like a painted circus wagon?

Trailer Brakes

In many states, trailers with a GVWR of 1,500 pounds or more are required to have brakes on all wheels. Most automobile manufacturers suggest trailer brakes be used with even lighter weights.

There are two basic types of brakes on trailers: surge brakes and electrically-activated brakes. Most trailers have surge brakes, which are activated after the automobile’s brakes have slowed the trailer. Surge brakes are frequently wrecked by dunking, although newer models have flushing devices that offer some protection. Electric brakes, which are connected to the automobile’s brakes, are also vulnerable to dunking.

Trailer Hitches

Trailer hitches are rated in four classes according to the weight (GVWR) they will be pulling: Class I has a maximum capacity rating of 2,000 pounds; Class II has a maximum rating of 3,500 pounds; Class III has a maximum capacity rating of 5,000 pounds; and Class IV has a maximum rating of 10,000 pounds. The weight of your boat, trailer, and gear should never exceed this capacity.

Another Consideration: The Tow Vehicle

A tow vehicle's engine, transmission, cooling system, tires, and rear springs are all stressed by the additional weight of a boat and trailer. Considering that the average price of a new tow vehicle starts at about $20,000, it behooves the trailer boat owner to be mindful of the vehicle’s towing capacity and to select a vehicle with a towing capacity that is at least several hundred pounds greater than the weight you intend to pull.

Always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations when an automobile or truck is used for towing a boat. Don’t assume a big car can be used to haul a big boat. A Cadillac Seville with a hefty 4.6 liter V-8, for example, has a rated towing capacity of only 1,000 pounds, which is the same towing capacity as a tiny Ford Escort.

And while horsepower is certainly important, more horsepower does not always produce more torque. The latter is a measure of how much weight an engine can move. An automatic transmission is more desirable for towing than a manual transmission, since the added weight is tough on a clutch.

Auto manufacturers publish a recommended towing weight, which, depending on the type of construction, is usually about half the weight of the car. Although the car will be able to haul more weight, exceeding the recommended towing weight will make the trailer difficult to control and cause the car to get old before its time.

Since you’ll have passengers, luggage, etc., in addition to the boat, manufacturers now use a gross combined weight rating (GCWR), which is the total weight of the car, trailer, boat, passengers, and gear that a car can safely accommodate.

Many automobile manufacturers offer optional beefed-up towing packages. The additional cost on a new car is nominal, and is certainly worth the money if you plan on towing a boat. If you're not going to buy a new car anytime soon, and your present car is too feeble to tow the family boat and trailer, you may be able to bring it up to snuff by beefing up the spring coils with air bags, adding a larger radiator and water pump, etc. This will be considerably more expensive than ordering the same components on a new car, but it can be done by most car dealers.

Part II: Trailer Maintenance

Three things dictate how often a trailer needs to be inspected: where it is used; how often it is used; and how hard it is used. A fourth consideration, just to complicate the discussion, might be the quality of the trailer itself. As a bare-bones minimum, any trailer should be thoroughly inspected at the start of each boating season.

Even if the trailer isn’t used regularly, an annual inspection and any subsequent maintenance will protect its value. If a trailer is going to be used frequently, will be dunked in saltwater, and will spend many hours traveling over bumpy roads, you’ll want to inspect key components much more often. Here are a few tips and suggestions.

The Frame and Axle

Submersible trailers have the advantage of being easier to use, at least for beginners, but they have the disadvantage of requiring more upkeep, especially when the trailer is used in saltwater. Any light rust on the trailer’s frame should be sanded and painted. The sooner the better. If a structural component appears to be badly rusted, the trailer shouldn’t be used until it is examined by an expert or the component is replaced. To prevent rust, even a trailer with a galvanized frame should be rinsed thoroughly when the trailer has been dunked in saltwater.

Trailers tend to get bounced around a lot, and any loose nuts on the frame must be tightened. If you aren’t familiar with your trailer, structural components should be inspected frequently until you’re confident that none are prone to loosening. Even the tightest trailer should be examined routinely on long trips.

Surge brakes must be adjusted periodically. You’ll have to jack the wheel off of the ground and then use a tire tool to first tighten the adjustment cog all of the way until the wheel won’t turn and then back it off a few turns until the wheel again turns freely. If you do the job yourself, follow manufacturer’s recommendations.

Trailer Tires

A blown tire can be more than just an inconvenience. According to the BoatU.S. Marine Insurance claim files, neglecting tires is one of the most frequent causes of trailer failure--broken axles and even spilled boats. Treads should be examined whenever the trailer will be used, but keep in mind that trailer tires sometimes need replacing long before the treads wear out. Spider-web cracks on the sidewall are an indication that the tire is rotten and can't be relied on to carry heavy loads. While you're examining the sidewalls, take a look at the wheel to make sure they're tight.

Sidewalls contain another useful bit of information: the max load limits for the tires. If there are two tires rated for 500 pounds each, then the total weight on the trailer--the boat and gear--should be no more than 1,000 pounds.

Trailer tires frequently suffer from under inflation and should be checked whenever the trailer is used. Recommended inflation pressures are stamped on the sidewalls. Monitoring inflation pressure (when tires are cool) is especially important on trailer tires, which are typically smaller and work harder than automobile tires. An under-inflated tire builds up heat quickly, which can cause the layers inside --called plies--to delaminate. Repair or replace a tire with a slow leak. Never mix tires--bias plies and radials. Use tires built specifically for use on trailers, which have thicker sidewalls.

Trailer tires deteriorate in sunlight and can have their useful life extended by taking them off the trailer and storing them in the garage (put blocks under the trailer frame) whenever the trailer will be idle for extended periods. Removing the tires also discourages theft. If removing the tires isn’t possible, wrap them in plastic trash bags to protect the sidewalls from sunlight.

Trailer tires frequently suffer from under inflation and should be checked whenever the trailer is used.

Spare Tires, Hassles, and Highway Theft

Considering what is at stake, it is surprising how many skippers do not carry a spare tire for their trailers. Trying to find someone who can fix (or replace) a blown trailer tire can be a hassle, to say the least, but there is also a considerable risk that while you’re searching for a gas station someone will steal the boat. A boater in Connecticut, to use one example, left his trailer on the side of a busy highway for less than a half-hour while he went to get the tire repaired. When he got back, the boat and trailer were gone. Another boater, this one in Texas, left his boat and trailer to get a tire repaired and returned sometime later to find that his outboard was missing. After leaving briefly to report the theft to police, he returned to find that the boat and trailer (and his luggage) had disappeared.

Boats on trailers are an easy target for thieves, especially when they’re sitting alone on the side of a busy highway. Learn from the mistakes of others: carry a spare tire for your trailer! A U-bolt can be used to attach the spare directly to the trailer frame. Note: A typical car jack will not work on a trailer, so you'll need to get a scissors jack that is large enough to handle the load.

Hubs and Bearings

If your hubs don’t have bearing protectors, it is best to keep them out of the water. If you must dunk the hubs, allow time for them to cool or cold water will be drawn inside, displacing the grease and causing the bearings to corrode and fail. Bearings that have been accidentally submerged in saltwater should be cleaned with kerosene and then butyl alcohol before being repacked with grease. Use something like a tongue depressor to distribute the grease evenly to both front and rear bearings (don’t over-pack). With most hubs, seals must be replaced whenever they’re removed for packing.

Most new trailers, fortunately, have bearing protectors, which are metal caps with springs that hold grease under pressure. These protectors eliminate water penetration into the hub, not to mention a lot of grubby work. If your trailer doesn’t have protectors, they can be and should be added to the hub. They’re easy to install and are relatively inexpensive.

With protectors, a squirt or two of grease at a fitting is all that is required to protect bearings. Press the protector at the edge; if it moves it doesn’t need grease. If it is rigid, you’ll need to add grease (use only a grease recommended for trailer bearings). Even with protectors, it is a good idea to carry extra bearings on a long trip.

Lights and Electrical

Boat trailers are required to have lights, but not all trailer lights are waterproof. Some trailer lights aren’t meant to be immersed in water and should be removed before launching. Even if you have sealed trailer lights, don't let the connector plug to the car get dunked, especially when it's still connected. Only stranded copper wire, which is flexible and break resistant, should be used on a trailer. Exposed wire should be secured every 18" to prevent chafing. The entire system should be inspected twice a year for bare or chafed wires and all of the contacts given a protective dab of grease. Finally, it's a good idea to always carry spare bulbs and fuses.

Rollers that are damaged should be replaced. The yellow or clear "poly" rollers, incidentally, last considerably longer than their rubber counterparts, which deteriorate in sunlight.

In general, your winch should be rated to pull at least half the combined weight of your boat, motor and gear. Check your winch regularly for loose mounting bolts and any loose internal parts. If you use an electric winch, check that the power cord is in good shape and there is no corrosion on the wire--you might over heat the winch if the electricity supply isn't 100%. Make sure your winch line doesn't rub up against anything while loading and unloading the boat. Check the line frequently for wear or fraying. Even a slight amount of wear can significantly reduce the weight carrying ability of the strap.

Note: Winches are designed for one thing: loading and unloading your boat. They are NOT designed to hold your boat on the trailer when you are going down the road. Make sure you use other methods of securing your boat to the trailer!

Part III: Towing a Trailer

Weight distribution.

Driving hazards that are normally only an annoyance to an automobile - potholes, uneven pavement, sharp curves, etc.—can be scary when you’re towing a trailer, especially if the weight is not distributed correctly. Five to 10 percent of the total weight of the boat, motor, trailer, and gear should be on the trailer ball when the coupler is parallel to the ground.

Too much weight on the ball and the car will be difficult to steer (and good luck retrieving your boat at a steep launch ramp, especially if your car has front-wheel drive). You can also wreck the car’s suspension system. Too little weight on the ball and the trailer is prone to fishtailing - excessive swaying from side to side. Fishtailing can also occur when tires are too soft or the trailer and the boat are too heavy for the car.

Techniques for redistributing weight at the coupler include shifting gear inside the boat, emptying water and fuel tanks, and adjusting the boat’s position on the trailer. If all else fails, you can remedy the problem by moving the trailer's axle - a much larger job that usually requires a pro.

Positioning the Boat

Many boats spend the better part of their lives atop a trailer. To reduce the chances of sagging or oil-canning (flexing) that could permanently disfigure or even weaken the boat’s hull, the boat should always be level and supported evenly, with rollers or padded bunks concentrated in critical areas such as the engine and chine. On boats with outboard or I/O’s, transoms must be well supported. Poly rollers, incidentally, last considerably longer than their rubber counterparts, which deteriorate in sunlight.

Securing the Boat

Keep in mind that when you’re barreling down the highway at speeds of 65 mph or more, the boat will be buffeted by near hurricane force winds.

Anything loose on the deck or in the cockpit, including things like Bimini tops, will probably be blown away. Either stow them below or make sure they are secured. Better yet, wrap the boat in a snug-fitting cover, which protects the upholstery from sunlight and road grit, as well as reduces fuel consumption.

A heavy strap should always be used to anchor the boat's stern to the trailer. If a strap isn't used, the boat will bounce against (or off) the trailer. Don't rely solely on the winch cable to tie down the bow. Use a separate line from the bow eye down to the trailer. When you're traveling, check the straps and the bow eye itself whenever you stop.

Safety Chains

Always use a safety chain, criss-crossed between the car and the trailer coupling. Should the hitch fail, heaven forbid, the chain will keep the trailer from flying off the road. Crossing the chain prevents the trailer coupler from separating completely from the car. Leave enough slack in the chain to allow for proper turning, but not so much that it drags. Using a shackle/pin is far more secure than relying on the standard S-hooks, which have been known to jiggle loose.

Launching and Retrieving the Boat

Getting there (in one piece).

The first thing you should remember when towing a trailer is that you are towing a trailer. That may sound obvious, but when the car is humming merrily along it can be easy to forget the trailer is back there. Slow down! Reducing speed gives you more time to react and reduces the strain on the car and trailer. Swing wider at corners so your trailer doesn’t hit the curb, and remember to allow extra space when you pass other cars.

The additional weight of a trailer dramatically affects braking, so leave considerably more distance than you normally would between your car and the car in front of you.

Rely on lower gears rather than brakes to reduce speed when driving downhill. Some states have separate speed limits for cars pulling trailers, and you should also be alert to signs restricting trailers.

On trips, make it a habit to check the wheel hubs every time you stop for gas. If one hub feels hotter than the other, or if both feel abnormally hot, the bearings should be inspected before you continue the trip. Straps holding the boat, lug nuts on the tires, and structural nuts and bolts on the trailer frame should also be examined to make sure they’re tight. If it is raining, check the boat’s cover for pooling water, which could affect weight distribution and make the car more difficult to handle.

Launching the Boat

Let's suppose you’ve managed to negotiate the gauntlet of potholes, slick spots and traffic snarls without mishap. The trailer held together. You have arrived at the launch ramp.

If the ramp is crowded, and it usually is on weekends, don’t despair; use the extra time to prepare your boat and trailer before it is your turn to launch. Make sure the lower unit is raised to avoid scraping; install the drain plug; release the securing straps; disconnect the trailer's lights; and rig a line so the boat doesn’t drift away after it is launched.

If you are stepping a mast, make sure there are no overhead power lines between you and the ramp. If you don’t have bearing protectors, make sure hubs are cool.

Next, you'll have to back the trailer onto the launch ramp. To a novice, backing a trailer can be like standing on your head and reading a book upside down in a mirror. It takes practice. Learning can be rough on the blood pressure - yours and the other people at the ramp waiting patiently (or impatiently) to launch their boats.

To avoid disagreeable encounters with your fellow boaters, practice backing the trailer in the quiet safety of your driveway or, better yet, an empty parking lot. Tip: push the bottom of the car's steering wheel in the direction you want the trailer to go.

Keep a tire stop handy, leave the car's engine running in case you need power quickly, and don’t forget your parking brake! That may seem elementary, but when a particular boater in Tennessee got careless, his truck and trailer rolled down the ramp and didn’t stop until they were in 60' of water. It must have been a long walk home.

Retrieving the Boat

Now that you've enjoyed your time on the water, it's time to go home. When you get to the ramp, good manners are very important! If there are other boaters launching or leaving, you must wait your turn. When your turn comes, you must be ready to move quickly. Start by getting all of your gear ready to take off the boat, and get your boat ready to go on the trailer. If you have the option, let someone off the boat to get the trailer to the water while you or the other people aboard take the gear off. at the ramp waiting patiently (or impatiently) to launch their boats.

Before you back down the trailer, make sure the trailer lights aren't connected to the tow vehicle. If the trailer has a tilting trailer bed, put it in the up position. Slowly back the trailer into the water, and use the boat's bow and stern lines to line the boat up with the trailer. at the ramp waiting patiently (or impatiently) to launch their boats.

Attach the winch cable to the boat, and start cranking! Be careful that no one is in the direct line of the winch cable--if it breaks you can be seriously injured from the whiplash. After you have the boat all the way on the trailer, attach the safety chains and pull the boat the trailer forward--make sure your engine is raised first! at the ramp waiting patiently (or impatiently) to launch their boats.

Once you've cleared the ramp area, make sure all lose gear is stowed, attach the tie-down straps, and reconnect the trailer lights to the tow vehicle, and hit the road. at the ramp waiting patiently (or impatiently) to launch their boats.

NOTE - While many people drive the boat onto the trailer, it isn't advised. Using the engine to assist trailering erodes the ramp bed, can lead to debris being sucked into the engine, and can cause an accident!

Make sure you drain all water from the boat - the bilge, the live well, the trailer lights, etc. Trailer boats are a leading cause of the spread of invasive species. Make sure your boat is cleaned thoroughly before you launch your boat again, particularly if you go to a different body of water. The best thing to do would be to clean your boat at the ramp. If you can't, try to make sure that when you do wash, the water doesn't go into a drain that feeds into a sewer that feeds into a different body of water.

Protecting Trailers from Thieves: A Few Suggestions

Wayne thought he was being prudent bringing his boat home for the winter. His marina wasn't in an especially good neighborhood and, besides, nobody would watch after his boat the way that he would. You can guess the rest. Despite Wayne's caution, he returned from work late one afternoon to an empty driveway. His boat had been stolen.

It's no wonder that trailer boat thefts appear so frequently in the BoatU.S. claim files. Imagine leaving thousands of dollars stored in large crates marked MONEY on a trailer in your driveway. An exaggeration? Maybe. But to a thief, especially a professional, a boat on a trailer is not much different than a stack of dollar bills. Simply parking a boat in a driveway in front of your house offers little or no security. But there are a few simple tricks, shown below, that will make a boat on a trailer a much less attractive target for thieves.

• Remove the tires. This not only makes it much harder to pull the trailer, storing the tires indoors (out of the sunlight) prolongs their life and reduces the chances of a flat tire. As an added precaution against theft, be sure to remove the hub nuts and store them with the tires.
• If practical, chain the trailer to a tree.
• If possible, store the boat in the backyard or in the garage so that it can't be seen by passers-by. If the boat has to be stored in the driveway, don't leave the trailer hitch facing the street. Even if the hitch is locked or has been removed, professional thieves carry coupler devices that can be quickly attached to the trailer.
• Remove the trailer's license plate and, if possible, the tail lights.
• Invest in a dog, preferably one with a nasty disposition to deter strangers.
• Locks are available for props and some model out drives. Smaller outboards should be taken off and stored in the garage.

For More Information About Trailering

• Check out BoatUS information on trailering
• Check out Seaworthy Magazine information on trailering

Boat Towing & Trailering Guide

Boat Towing: How to Trailer a Boat

With a trailerable boat, you’re free to boat on just about any lake, river, bay or inlet. Trailering is great way to explore different waterways in your state or region and it’s also the most affordable way to store your boat.

Let’s say our Boat Finder tool led you to the perfect trailerable boat, you’ve just signed on the dotted line, and now you’re ready for some serious aquatic adventures—just as soon as you figure out how to keep towing and trailering safe and easy. Don’t worry, there’s no great mystery to trailering a boat once you’ve got the basics figured out.

How to Tow a Boat

How to Launch a Boat

Loading a Boat on a Trailer

Towing a boat.

Learning how to tow a boat isn’t nearly as difficult as one might imagine. Read our complete guide on How to Tow a Boat for step-by-step instructions.

We’re going to assume you already compared the weight of your boat/motor/trailer package with the towing capacity of your vehicle, to make sure your tow vehicle could handle the job. If you haven’t, everything else should come to a screeching halt until you do so. It’s imperative that you never try to trailer a boat with an insufficient tow vehicle, and looking up the pertinent weights and capacities only takes a moment.

Okay—you have a safe package within all weight restrictions, and you ran through the pre-trip checklist. You’ve arrived at the lake? Excellent – we’re glad to hear that you had a safe, uneventful trip to the boat ramp. Now, it’s time for…

How to Tow a Boat: Step-by-Step Guide

How to Backup a Boat Trailer 

Now it’s time to back down the ramp, which some people consider the biggest challenge of all.

• To make it easier, pull forward far enough that you start backing with the truck and trailer in alignment.
• Then make tiny incremental steering corrections as you’re backing up a boat trailer; over-steering is often the cause of a botched backing job.
• Remember that the trailer will swing in the opposite direction of where you steer; some people find it helpful to place their hands at the bottom of the wheel, while reminding themselves to move their hands in the direction they want the trailer to go.
• When the back of the boat begins to float, you may be able to release the bow eye and motor or tug the boat off the trailer.

Every rig is a bit different and different ramps have different grades; in some cases you may need to back down until the tow vehicles’ rear tires are getting wet and in others you may not need to back down nearly as far. Just remember to take your time and don’t be afraid to move the rig farther down the ramp if necessary if the boat doesn’t float free on the first try.

Launching a Boat

Getting the boat off the trailer at a boat ramp is far easier than removing a boat from a trailer on land—the water and the boat’s buoyancy will do all the work for you. Though it may seem daunting the first few times you do it, you’ll be launching that boat like a pro in no time. Before you launch, however, there’s some preparation to be done:

• Remove all tie-downs and ropes (but not the winch hook, or the boat could slide off the trailer prematurely).
• Add a rope to the boat so you can secure it at the pier once it’s off the trailer.
• Load any gear hauled in your tow vehicle into the boat.
• Put in the drain plug.
• If your trailer has incandescent lights, unplug them from the tow vehicle (otherwise, they can heat up when you step on the brakes and then pop when submerged in cool water).

As a matter of boat ramp etiquette, it’s considered polite to pull over in the parking lot to make all your preparations. That way other boaters can continue using the ramp, as you get prepped.

How to Launch a Boat: Step-by-Step

Retrieving the Boat & Loading it Back on a Trailer

Some rigs are designed for the boat to be driven directly onto the trailer, while others are meant for the boat to be floated on as you control it with ropes. In both cases simply aim the boat down the centerline, and (gently) drive or pull it on until it stops. Then attach the winch to the bow eye, and after making sure the anti-reverse ratchet on the winch is engaged, crank it up the rest of the way up until the bow lays firmly on the bow stop. If you can’t get it all the way up consider backing the trailer down a bit deeper, if possible.

When you’ve pulled the boat up the ramp, inspect it to make sure it’s centered on the trailer. If it isn’t, with a small, light boat you may be able to lift and push the boat to adjust its position. With larger boats, you may need to back down into the water again to make the adjustment.

How to Load a Boat on a Trailer

Basic Boat Trailering Tips

Here's are a few more boat trailering tips to make sure the trip goes smoothly...

• Always allow extra following distances and braking times.
• Never start like a jackrabbit. Even if you went through the checklist and know the boat is securely tied to the trailer, things can break… and more than one boat has slid off the trailer and onto the roadway, thanks to a lead foot when the light turned green.
• Swing wide around turns, to avoid clipping the curb with a trailer tire.
• If you sense any swaying in the rig, pull over and redistribute weight. The tongue weight (how heavy the very front of the trailer is) should be between 10- and 15-percent of the overall load weight. If it’s not proper the trailer can sway from side to side, and swaying can lead to accidents.
• Change lanes very slowly. You may not be able to see cars directly behind your boat (unless you’re towing a small boat) and they may sometimes whip out from behind you and accelerate unexpectedly.

What Do You Need to Tow a Boat?

• A capable tow vehicle
• Reliable tie-downs for the stern.

There is some additional gear you may want to consider getting, however. A Transom Saver will help support the engine’s lower drive unit, and relieve stress on the boat as you hit bumps on the highway. And side mirror extensions can be very helpful if your tow vehicle doesn’t have over-sized towing mirrors.

Certified Trailers

The National Marine Manufacturers Association (NMMA) operates a trailer certification program to help boat trailer manufacturers comply with established industry standards and federal safety regulations. The NMMA Certified Trailer program gives boat trailer owners peace of mind, by helping them identify trailers that comply with applicable federal highway regulation, industry standards and State brake requirement. Trailers are certified in several areas, including of VIN plates, capacity ratings, couplings, safety chains, lighting, winches, brakes, and registration procedures.

Highly trained third-party inspectors visit the manufacturer each year and physically inspect boat trailer models, ensuring compliance to all certification requirements.

You can view our complete list of certified trailer manufacturers for more information.

State Laws About Towing your Boat

State laws vary regarding towing. Braking systems, maximum width, and the presence of safety chains are just a few examples of regulations that can differ from state to state. Before towing, be sure to check your own states’ laws.

To learn more, read Boat Trailer Laws, Rule & Regulations .

Types of Trailerable Boats

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Best Trailerable Sailboat Brands to Cruise or Race

18th dec 2023 by samantha wilson.

Being able to trailer your sailboat opens up many possibilities, from cost saving  boat storage solutions to being able to take your boat to new cruising grounds. It's common to see trailered motorboats on the roads in the United States, Canada, and Europe, but sailboats tend to be trailered in smaller numbers.

Of course the act of trailering a sailboat involves a bit more preparation, namely lowering the mast, but as we'll see there are many excellent brands out there ensuring that the sailboats they build can be trailered nearly as easily as a RIB or center console. And they're not just bathtub-sized sailboats either. Some of the best trailerable sailboats are up to 30 feet in length. While it's trickier to trailer a large catamaran due to its wide beam, the multihull world hasn't been left behind, as you can find clever trimarans that fold up in different ways.

We have picked out some of our favorite trailerable sailboat brands in this article but it's important to remember there are many excellent brands building excellent boats.

Corsair Marine photo. 

What Is the Biggest Sailboat I Can Trailer?

Daysailers have long been trailered, thanks to their compact size, simple rigs, and easily lowered, relatively short mast. For those who want a slightly larger boat that they can take the whole family out on or use for overnight trips, then a 20- to 25-foot sailboat may be more useful than a 16- to 19-foot one. Going up a size category allows for a whole new range of activities, with proper galleys, running water, electricity, and an enclosed head to provide more substantial home comforts. But how big is too big to trailer?

You might be surprised to hear that in the United States, sailboats up to around 31 feet in length can be trailered legally. In fact, it typically depends less on length, and more on the weight, beam, and height of the vessel and the trailer together, must meet several legal requirements.

• Weight : While there is no specific weight limit to be towed, the sailboat has to be able to be towed easily by your vehicle, usually a pickup-style truck or full-size SUV with substantial power. Most single- and tandem-axle trailers can handle a maximum combined load of 7,000 to 8,000 pounds, so your weight limit will also be dictated by your trailer.
• Beam : To travel without permits, the trailer and vessel must fit on the road in regular traffic. In the US, that's a maximum width of 8 foot 6 inches (a couple inches less in the EU at 2.55 meters). Most trailerable monohull sailboats will be less than this for ease of maneuvering in traffic, but when it comes to catamarans and trimarans, adjustments have to be made (we'll look at those later).
• Length : The upper length limit of a sailboat can be anything up to 65 feet, but that's a moot point because vessels of that size would never meet the width limits. In reality, a 30-footer is the longest sailboat you're likely to tow, with 15- to 25-footers being much more common.
• Height : Your trailer and sailboat have to fit under bridges and highway overpasses and so for most states the maximum height is 14 feet. This will obviously require lowering the mast onto the deck and including that into your height calculation.

For more advice on the practicalities of trailering see our guide to Buying a Boat Trailer .

The Best Trailerable Cruising Sailboats

The best trailerable cruising sailboat brands.

• Catalina Yachts : As one of North America's best-known sailboat brands of sailboats, Catalina has a long history of building trailerable models. Their entire Sport line cruising boats—except for the 275—can easily be trailered, and the 22 and 22 Sport, in particular, make for a great step up from daysailing to enjoying a pocket cruiser.
• Beneteau : Beneteau 's reputation for affordable, capable yachts spans the globe, and their skill at building trailerable sailboats up to 30 feet is just one of many attributes. Take the First 27SE and 24; they are not luxury cruiser (although the 27SE can sleep six crew!) but they sure can sail fast on short distance races or fast adventure cruises. With impeccable and high-quality design featuring double rudders, these are some of the nicest fast cruisers on the market.

Beneteau First 27SE. Beneteau photo. 

The Best Trailerable Sport Sailboats

Several brands on this list create high performance sports sailboats , and one of the top names you think of in this sector is Laser whose speedy tiny racers are now an Olympic event in themselves. But there are many excellent brands building ultra-fast sports sailboats – several on our list are considerably bigger than a Laser too. Here we take a look at some of our favorite sports dinghies which are the quintessential trailerable sports boat.

The Best Trailerable Sport Sailboat Brands

• Melges : Founded in 1945 by Harry C. Melges, Sr., this is an iconic Midwestern brand made famous, in part, by Harry's son, Harry “Buddy” Melges Jr, an Olympic medalist in the ‘60s and National Sailing Hall of Fame member. Today the business is run by Harry III, also a championship sailor, who oversees a range of high performance vessels from the award-winning Melges 14 and 15 dinghies, to A, C, E and MC scow classes, and international sportboat classes, the Melges 20 and 24—the latter has more than 900 boats sailing competitively all over the world. All of their models are trailerable, allowing them to be transported easily to competitions. Melges boats for sale
• J/Boats : The most successful volume builder of trailerable, performance keelboats is also a family-run brand founded by brothers Rod and Bob Johnstone and now led by second-generation Johnstones—Jeff, Al and Stuart. Starting with the J/24 (more than 5,500 boats built) and most recently with the J/70, the company has popularized a series of international racing classes from 22 to 26 feet while also building many popular larger racer/cruiser-style models that don't fit easily on a trailer.  J/Boats for sale
• RS Sailing : British-built RS Sailing performance dinghies and keelboats are spreading in popularity across the world. Distributed widely on the east coast of the US, they're excellent pocket racing dinghies, easily trailered and ultra-fast. Their range of boats runs from 12 feet and 21 feet and includes dinghies, catamarans, and keelboats, allowing you to find exactly the right boat for your experience level and interest, but it's their Racing Series which sets them apart as high performers in the market. They're lightweight, simple in their design, and well-suited to being trailered thanks to their compact sizes.

Melges 24. Melges photo. 

The Best Trailerable Youth Sailboats

Trailerable sailboats designed for younger sailors are lightweight, easy to rig, and easy to sail. They should offer a simple platform in which to learn the mechanics of sailing, the movement of the boat on the water, and the basic maintenance of a sailboat. For more guidance check out our guide to choosing the best beginner sailboat .

The Best Trailerable Youth Sailboat Brands

• ILCA : Formerly known as the Laser, the ILCA design is one of the most popular sailboats of all time, a responsive yet high-performance one-person sailboat that is an excellent step up, particularly for sailors who outgrow their smaller dinghies as teenagers. As a racing class, ILCA offers three different mast sizes so sailors can start in what's called the ILCA 4 class and as they gain weight, move to ILCA 6 and 7. By that time, you're in a class of boat that can take you all the way to the Olympics. Designed in the 1970s by Canadian sailor Bruce Kirby, the 13'10.5” boat teaches high-performance skills, subtle steering and trimming techniques, and astounding speed once on a plane.
• Hobie Cat : We've put Hobie Cat in this category simply because of the brand's long-standing legacy of creating fun, simple, and compact catamarans that are loved by families and easily trailered. The classic Hobie 16 model with more than 100,000 built remains an active international class worldwide for the young and the young at heart; newer models provide a good, stable platform for a variety of off-the-beach and daysailing contexts. Catamarans are obviously wider than their monohull counterparts, but beach cats like the ones made by Hobie are well within the maximum width allowance to be towed on American roads. And because of their lightweight fiberglass or rotomolded hulls, they can be towed by much less powerful vehicles too.

Laser sailboats. Laser Performance photo. 

The Best Small Trailerable Sailboats

There are many benefits to opting for a small towable sailboat , and plenty of excellent brands out there are producing high performance pocket cruisers. A smaller sailboat won't require a large trailer and together they will weigh less and be able to be towed by a regular family car rather than a pick-up truck. Navigating smaller roads or heavier traffic will be less of a consideration, plus getting your sailboat launched will be a simpler affair. Several brands on our list could be in this category but special mention must be made of:

The Best Small Trailerable Sailboats Brands

• Cape Cutter : The traditional beauty of these sailboats, twinned with modern-day advancements, makes them really stand out from the rest. The design originates from the classic gaff cutter work boats, but today it's one of the fastest small gaffers in the world. The interior is cleverly spacious, with four berths, as well as a simple galley area. With quick rigging, it can be sailed solo, but is also able to accommodate small groups, making it a capable and hugely versatile pocket cruiser. At 22 feet long, 7 foot 7 inches wide, and under 5 foot in height with the mast lowered, it's perfect for trailering too. Cape Cutter boats for sale.
• NorseBoat : These beautiful, hand-crafted, and impressively versatile Canadian-built sailboats offer good performance and are described by the manufacturer as "the Swiss Army Knives of sailboats". Whether it's the 12.5 model, which can be sailed, rowed, and motored, or the 17.5 or 21.5 models, they can all be trailered, easily beached, and even used as camp cruisers, allowing for overnight adventures. And with traditional styling they're absolute head-turners whether you're cruising along the road or water.

NorseBoat 17.5. NorseBoat photo. 

The Best Trailerable Catamaran and Trimaran Sailboats

Multihulls have gained popularity in the last 20 years thanks to their stability, lack of keel, performance, and increased space on board compared to a monohull of the same length. Yet there are obvious challenges when it comes to trailering a sailboat with a very wide beam such as a catamaran or even more so a trimaran. In fact, by having three hulls, the trimaran type has bred for some innovative engineering, folding in the two outer hulls thus creating a smaller overall beam for transport. This is trickier with catamarans as they're not foldable in the same way. We've mentioned the well-known Hobie Cat brand of small beach cats above but there are some other innovative brands out there making it easier to trailer multihulls.

The Best Trailerable Catamaran and Trimaran Sailboat Brands

• Nacra : Catamarans are difficult to trailer because their beam is likely to exceed the legal road limits due to their double hull structure. Having said that, small models such as Nacra's lightning fast racing cats will squeeze within the beam limits at 8 foot 5 inches wide including the 15, F16, and F18 Infusion. If you're after trailerable performance and some competition, these cats provide a whole different level for serious and athletic sailors.
• Corsair : Corsair makes some of the best trailerable trimaran sailboats on the market and were pioneers in the folding trimaran sector for more than three decades. Yes you read that correctly…foldable trimarans up to 20 feet in length. With technology straight out of a Transformers movie, a 15-foot beam folds down into a neat little 8-foot wide package ready for trailering. Even the 31 foot 10 inch long 970 Cruze, with its standing room cabin, can be put on a trailer thanks to the folding system and retractable daggerboard and rudder.
• Dragonfly : With a focus on beautiful, cruise-worthy, high-quality, and high-performance trimarans up to 40 feet, Dragonfly offers two models— the 25 and 28—that can be folded and trailered for ease of transport and to allow you the freedom to access different cruising grounds. At a folded width of 8 feet 3 inches, the 28 is still just within legal width for towing on US roads, while offering you a true weekend cruiser complete with saloon, cabin, and galley.

Dragonfly 28.1. Dragonfly photo. 

Written By: Samantha Wilson

Samantha Wilson has spent her entire life on and around boats, from tiny sailing dinghies all the way up to superyachts. She writes for many boating and yachting publications, top charter agencies, and some of the largest travel businesses in the industry, combining her knowledge and passion of boating, travel and writing to create topical, useful and engaging content.

More from: Samantha Wilson

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Sail Far Live Free

Camping on a keel - trailer sailers for cruisers.

Great compendium Kevin. Also a sensible choice for those who've done the conventional cruising and are looking at phase 2 options. All the best.

While I'm not sure how old this post is, Ill add another boat to consider using your criteria above. We have a S2 7.9 Gran Slam which we cruise locally in Milwaukee and also take a few weeks out of the summer and trailer to better cruising grounds. We pull it with a Chevy Suburban and are quite please with having a performance boat that is straight forward to launch and rig. The beam is actually over legal limit at 9', but these boats have been trailered extensively to one design regattas over many years and I have never heard of anyone being stopped by the hi way revenuers.

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Popular posts from this blog, top 10 favorite affordable bluewater sailboats, go small and go now 5 pocket cruisers to take you anywhere.

Escape to the Sea: How to get from the Great Lakes to the Caribbean

John Hughan remembered as a 'wonderful big brother' after fatal boat trailer crash

• Updated: Sep. 11, 2024, 11:45 a.m.
• | Published: Sep. 11, 2024, 11:31 a.m.
• Susannah Sudborough | [email protected]

A 14-year-old Norwell boy who was killed in a boat trailer crash on Cape Cod late last month is being remembered as a “wonderful big brother.”

On Aug. 30, John W. Hughan was working on a boat trailer that had become disabled on the side of the road in Yarmouth when 81-year-old Yarmouth resident Peter Richmond struck the trailer from behind in his SUV, Yarmouth police said previously. The crash, which happened on North Main Street around 1 p.m., caused the boat trailer to hit several people, and one person became pinned between the trailer and another vehicle.

John, who was with his uncle at the time, was killed in the crash, and two other people were seriously injured, police said previously. Richmond has since been charged with motor vehicle homicide and negligent operation in connection with the crash.

Remembering John Hughan’s life

John was born on July 24, 2010, in Boston to Peter and Allison Hughan, according to his obituary . He and his family lived in South Boston until he was five, at which point they moved to Norwell.

As a Norwell Public Schools student, John worked hard and excelled academically, according to his obituary. During his middle school years, his love of soccer and lacrosse grew as he joined teams such as the Laxachusetts lacrosse program.

John also had “a natural talent” for music and playing the trumpet, according to his obituary. He was selected to play in three different regional honor bands in both seventh and eighth grade.

"John loved all genres of music, and we would often catch him singing and humming along to songs,” his parents wrote in his obituary.

John was also part of the music program at United Church of Christ in Norwell, which he attended with his family. He started in Cherub Chimes, then moved to playing the bells in Rockin’ Ringers and eventually performed trumpet solos.

• Read more: Teen killed in Cape Cod boat trailer crash, 2 others hospitalized

In the summer, John spent most of his time golfing and boating with his family on Cape Cod, according to his obituary. Over the years, he made many friends at the Chatham Yacht Club, and together they would race sailboats.

“John spent most days on the water and always had a smile,” his obituary reads.

John was also a kindly conversationalist who could and would talk with anyone, according to his obituary.

“He was curious, always asking lots of questions. He was a friend with whom you could chat. He would try to make you laugh, make you feel heard, and make you feel important,” his obituary reads.

John also had a special bond with his sister Emmeline, according to his obituary. He was passionate about helping her improve her lacrosse skills, and the two were known to “battle it out” while playing soccer in their front yard.

“He would watch her sporting events, cheer her on the sailing race course, and be beaming when she succeeded,” his obituary reads.

Honoring John Hughan’s life

When he died, John had just reached many life milestones, such as completing his confirmation and achieving his Life Rank as part of Hanover’s Boy Scout Troop 38, according to his obituary. He was also excited about his future and planned to try out for the Norwell High School lacrosse and soccer teams, build an outdoor classroom at Norwell Middle School for his Eagle Scout project and finally beat his father in a game of golf.

John’s parents wrote in his obituary that he was “the most amazing son,” and that they “could not be any prouder of the young man he had become.”

“He was talented, gifted, kind, and loved beyond words. His mom hugged him every day, sometimes having to chase him out the door to make sure she got her hug,” his obituary reads. “As his life was taken far too soon, he will be remembered for how hard he worked at everything he did, the love and kindness that emanated through him, and his compassion for his friends and family.”

• Read more: 81-year-old man charged in connection with Yarmouth crash that left 14-year-old dead

In addition to his parents and sister, John leaves behind his grandparents, Gregory and Lynn Hughan, as well as many aunts, uncles, cousins and other loved ones, according to his obituary. A celebration of his life is scheduled for Sept. 21 at 10 a.m. at United Church of Christ in Norwell.

To honor John’s life, his parents have created the John W. Hughan Foundation through the United Church of Christ in Norwell, according to his obituary. Money donated to the foundation will be used to support youth music, sports and service activities.

Tax deductible donations to the John W. Hughan Foundation can be made online under “directed gifts” at this link . Donations can also be made by check and sent to UCC Norwell P.O. BOX 501, Norwell MA 02061.

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81-year-old charged in roadside boat trailer crash that killed teen, injured others, police say

A Yarmouth man is facing charges in connection to a deadly boat trailer crash that killed a Norwell teen in late August .

After weeks of investigating, Yarmouth Police charged 81-year-old Peter Richmond with motor vehicular homicide by negligent operation.

He is accused of striking and killing 14-year-old John Hughan, a Norwell resident.

On August 30, a truck towing a boat trailer had pulled to the side of North Main Street around 1 p.m. with a broken axle, according to authorities.

Hughan was working on the boat trailer with his uncle when authorities say Richmond drove his 2020 Cadillac Escalade into the back of it.

The ensuing collision fatally injured Hughan, and sent hospitalized two others.

Richmond remained on scene at the time of the crash.

He will be arraigned at a later date.

This is a developing story. Check back for updates as more information becomes available.

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Trailerable Sailboats Comparison

Trailerable sailboats come in a variety of shapes and sizes. These vessels can be used for everything from racing to offshore cruising.

In this article, we'll compare six of the most common trailerable sailboat types along with their uses. Additionally, we'll cover vessel design elements that distinguish different types of trailerable sailboats.

The most common types of trailerable sailboats include dinghies, racers, open-top cruising sailboats, pocket cruisers, coastal cruisers, and compact offshore sailboats. These vessels differ by size, rig type, hull type, and weight.

The information contained in this article was sourced from sailing guides and vessel identification records. Additionally, we took into consideration the opinions of sailors with experience on a variety of trailerable sailboats.

Table of contents

Defining Trailerable Sailboats

What distinguishes a trailerable sailboat from any other small cruising craft? The first and most obvious consideration is size. A trailerable sailboat has to meet the dimensional requirements set forth by the Department of Transportation. In other words, it must fit on a trailer that's small enough to travel on the road.

An additional consideration is weight. A trailerable sailboat should weigh less than around 7,000 pounds, as this is the upper towing limit for most typical Class C vehicles. Most trailerable sailboats can be towed behind a typical half ton pickup or SUV.

Additionally, most trailerable sailboats have a swing keel or centerboard. This makes it possible to rest a boat on a low trailer. Most displacement keels are simply too tall, though there are a few exceptions. The maximum trailer load height in most states is 14 ft, which a trailerable sailboat should clear without trouble.

Length is a consideration, though it's not as important as width. The maximum beam of a trailerable sailboat is 8 ft 6 in, as this is the limit for standard trailers on American highways. Typically, trailerable sailboats don't exceed 30 feet in length, as the length to beam ratio of a longer boat would lead to poor handling characteristics.

The final consideration is rigging. Due to height requirements, trailerable sailboats must have collapsible masts. Additionally, rudders and other items that extend beyond the hull must fold or stow in some manner.

Types of Trailerable Sailboats

Trailerable sailboats come in many varieties, weights, in sizes. These vessels are designed for specific uses, such as racing, cruising, fishing, or training. Here are the most common kinds of trailerable sailboats, along with what they're used for.

1. Dinghies

Dinghies are small, open sailing craft that usually don't exceed 15 feet in length. Dinghies are designed for use in protected waters. They're sometimes used to shuttle between an anchored sailboat and the shore. Dinghies are popular racing vessels, and many sailing schools use them for sailing instruction.

Popular Trailerable Dinghies:

• Optimist “Optie” (7 ft 9 in LOA)
• Minto (9 ft LOA)
• Wayfarer (16 ft)

Trailerable racing sailboats are long and narrow. They're designed for speed and agility, not comfort or offshore cruising. These boats generally have a low profile, and they're often open-top and lack sleeping accommodations.

Racing sailboats are lightweight and easy to tow. That said, trailerable racing sailboats are designed for experienced sailors as they're easier to capsize in high winds. These vessels range in size from 15 feet to over 25 feet.

Popular Trailerable Racing Sailboats:

• National 12 (12 ft)
• Sunfish (13 ft 9 in)
• Merlin Rocket (14 ft)

3. Open-Top Cruisers

Open-top cruising sailboats lack a cabin. However, these seaworthy craft are more than capable of coastal cruising in a variety of conditions. Many of these vessels are based on proven workboat designs that date back over a century. These vessels are ideal for harbor sailing and cruising on lakes.

Some people use open-top cruising sailboats for camping, as these traditional vessels are long enough to lay down a cot or sleeping bag. They make a great starter sailboat, as they're safe and easy to store in the garage or driveway.

Popular Trailerable Open-Top Cruisers

• Norseboat (17 ft 6 in)
• Bay Rider (20 ft)
• Com-Pac Legacy (23)

4. Pocket Cruisers

Pocket cruisers are similar to coastal cruisers, though they're distinguishable by their size and amenities. Generally speaking, a pocket cruiser is a small sailboat (under 25 feet in length) that features a cabin, galley, self-draining cockpit, and other 'big boat' accommodations.

Pocket cruisers usually aren't designed for serious offshore cruising, but they are comfortable for extended coastal or inland voyages. They weigh more than racing vessels, as stability is a key aspect of their design. Pocket cruisers are popular because they offer impressive capabilities in a small package.

Popular Trailerable Pocket Cruisers

• Sandpiper (15 ft)
• Sanderling (18 ft)
• West Wight Potter (19 ft)

5. Coastal Cruisers

Coastal cruisers are some of the most popular trailerable sailboats on the market. These vessels usually feature a cabin with a V-berth and a sink, though they occasionally include a head and a complete galley. Coastal cruisers are seaworthy enough for most near-shore and inland weather conditions.

Some adventurous sailors have taken coastal cruisers on extended bluewater voyages, though it's not particularly common. The size and sailing characteristics of these vessels is often not their greatest limiting factor.

There's only so many provisions you can store aboard a 22 to 25-foot sailboat, which is why coastal cruisers are generally considered impractical for offshore voyaging. Coastal cruisers handle well, and they're easy to sail, which is why this type of trailerable sailboat is popular in bays and harbors across the country.

Popular Trailerable Coastal Cruisers

• Cal 20 (20 ft)
• Catalina 22 (22 ft)
• Hunter 22 (22 ft)

6. Compact Offshore Sailboats

Compact offshore sailboats are the rarest and most capable type of trailerable sailboat. These vessels are a big boat in a compressed package. They typically feature a long displacement keel, a wide beam, and a cramped but feature-filled cabin.

These vessels are true cruising boats inside and out. The cabins usually feature a full galley, standing headroom, ahead with a shower, a V-berth upfront, and provisions for navigation. Their rigging is strong enough to handle offshore weather conditions.

Compact offshore sailboats usually have the greatest displacement, as their deep draft and wide beam keep them stable in rolling seas. This also contributes to greater dry weight, which is why they can't be towed by small vehicles.

Vessels of this type are technically trailerable, as they meet the dimensional requirements to travel on the highway. That's said, moving one of these boats is difficult. Owners generally keep these vessels in the water or in dry storage most of the year to avoid the hazard and hassle of towing such a hefty boat.

Popular Compact Offshore Cruisers

• Flicka 20 (20 ft)
• Dana 24 (24 ft)
• Nor'Sea 27 (27 ft)

The keel of a sailboat keeps it stable and tracking a straight course. Most trailerable sailboats have retractable keels of some variety, though some have fixed (permanently lowered) keels. Here are the most common types of trailerable sailboat keels in order of their popularity.

1. Centerboard

A centerboard is a form of retractable keel that's common on the smallest types of trailerable sailboats. A centerboard is essentially a long, thin blade that descends through a hole in the bottom of the boat.

Half of the centerboard remains inside the boat in a box called the 'centerboard trunk.' Centerboards are simple and easy to use, but the centerboard trunk takes up useful space in the cockpit or cabin.

2. Swing Keel

The swing keel is a type of retractable keel that eliminates the inconvenient centerboard trunk. A swing keel is a centerboard with a hinge on one end. It lives in a trunk, typically below the base of the hull, and swings down when in use.

Swing keels allow the sailboat to ride low on a trailer, which makes them a popular choice for pocket cruisers and trailer-sailers. Swing keels raise and lower using a  block and tackle system or a crank, usually located near the bilge or under a seat.

3. Fin Keel

Fin keels are less common on trailerable sailboats than they are on larger cruising boats. This type of keel is fixed to the bottom of the hull. A fin keel blade extends between 12 inches and 3 feet below the hull, and it occasionally includes a hydrodynamic bulb on the end. Fin keels are most often found on racing boats.

4. Semi-Displacement

Semi-displacement keels are long, fixed keels that run along the aft 2/3 of the hull. This type of keel is designed for cruising boats that value speed but still want to retain the stability and seaworthiness of a full keel.

Some trailerable sailboats have semi-displacement keels, especially if they're designed for offshore use. The benefits of a semi-displacement keel over a full keel are negligible on a trailer, as both types have a deep draft and high ride height.

5. Displacement (Full Keel)

Displacement keels are traditional and highly seaworthy. This type of keel runs across the entire length of the hull, usually reaching its deepest point at the stern. Displacement keels are found on vessels that are designed for offshore use.

Displacement keels are uncommon on trailerable sailboats, as they're long and cause the vessel to ride high on a trailer. Additionally, the type of vessel that uses a displacement keel is often wide and heavy, which isn't ideal for trailering.

Collapsable rigging is a hallmark of trailerable sailboats. The best trailerable sailboats have collapsible masts that stow securely across the deck. These vessels typically have a fork-shaped mast boot that acts as a hinge, allowing sailors to easily lower and secure the mast.

Many trailerable sailboats are gaff rigged. Though the traditional gaff rig is more complex than a modern Bermuda rigs, it uses a shorter and stronger mast. This has obvious benefits for trailerable boats, as the mast and spars store more easily.

Trailer Types

There are multiple types of trailers used to tow and store sailboats. The most common kind of sailboat trailer is the single-axle trailer. These trailers have one wheel on each side, and you can tow them with a standard Class IV trailer hitch.

Larger sailboats, such as heavy offshore cruising vessels, require something a bit sturdier. These vessels typically ride on dual-axle trailers, which have two wheels on each side.

Larger trailers, such as those with two axles, connect to a standard trailer hitch or to a fifth wheel hitch, which is mounted in the bed of a truck. Fifth-wheel trailers are the least common type of sailboat trailer.

Sailboat Weight and Towing

Dry weight is an important factor to consider when comparing trailerable sailboats. It's important to avoid confusing displacement and weight, even though both values use the same units.

Displacement is the weight of the water displaced by the vessel, whereas dry weight determines how much the boat weighs with its tanks empty and bilge dry. The ideal towing weight of a typical trailerable sailboat is between 3,000 and 5,000 pounds. This weight is within the towing capabilities of most trucks and full-size SUVs.

Larger trailerable vessels, such as many coastal cruisers and offshore trailer-sailers, can weigh 7,500 pounds or more. A sailboat of this magnitude requires a heavy-duty towing vehicle, such as a 1-ton diesel pickup truck.

Best Trailerable Sailboat for Cruising

For protected cruising, such as in a bay or after the river, it's hard to overlook the Catalina 22. This iconic fiberglass sailboat is known for easy handling and fun sailing characteristics. It has a comfortable cabin with plenty of room for a weekend on the water.

For more extensive cruising, especially offshore, the best trailerable sailboat is the Nor'Sea 27. This vessel is ideal due to its spacious interior and full accommodations. It has a full keel for stability, along with a head, galley, and sleeping arrangements down below.

Best Trailerable Sailboat for Weekend Sailing

The ideal weekend cruiser should be easy to tow in fast to rig, as larger and more complex vessels take too much time and effort the launch. With this in mind, it's a tie between the Wayfarer dinghy and the West Wight Potter. Both of these vessels are well-designed, fast to launch, and fun to sail.

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Daniel Wade

I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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