ez loader sailboat trailer

Your Chesapeake Bay Boating Connection for 50+ years!

Tri-State Marine is proud to offer the full line of EZ Loader Trailers, engineered to be the best recreational boat trailers in the industry – with over 10 industry patents.

Tri-State Marine offers expert sales, fitting and service of the industry’s best recreational boat trailers, exclusively from EZ Loader. For over 65 years, EZ Loader has led the industry in quality, performance, safety, reliability and innovations — continuing to outpace their competitors. All EZ Loader trailers are engineered to be fully adjustable to accommodate most vessels and are built using a heavy-duty frame, the highest quality components and marine-grade hardware with an industrial-grade finish. Simply put, they’re engineered to fit and built to last!

We offer EZ Loader trailers for every boat, every budget, and every body of water — whether EZ Loader roller or bunk style trailers.  We currently stock 7 of the most popular models, or you can custom order a trailer from us where you can choose from galvanized, powder-coated, aluminum, wet-painted systems and "Tuff Coated" Polyurea coatings.  Whether you’re a boating novice or a season fisherman, you’ll find the perfect fit at Tri-State Marine where our advisors will guide you on your selection, while our service technicians will ensure the best fit for your boat.  

Below are a few of our most popular EZ Loader trailers models – designed to safely transport your boat while making it easy to get you into the water. To better understand the full-line of EZ Loader trailers available from Tri-State Marine, please contact us directly for a consultation.

T96RT 23-25/7000

Model:  TEZR 7000

Hull Length: 23 - 25/27'

Weight Capacity:  7000 lb.

No. of Bunks:  64

Axle Style:  Torsion

Tire Size: ST 225/75R 15D

Approx. Width Between Fenders:  76 in.

Approx. Overall Width:  96 in.

Approx. Overall Length:  26 ft. /+ 2 ft.

Approx. Weight:  1859 lb.

80BS14-17/2000

Model: EZ 2000

Hull Length:  14 - 17'

Weight Capacity: 2000 lb.

No. of Bunks: 16

Axle Style: Spring

Tire Size: ST 175/80R 13C

Approx. Width Between Fenders: 64 in.

Approx. Overall Width: 80 in.

Approx. Overall Length: 19 ft.

Approx. Weight: 494 lb.

96RT15-18/2350

Model: EZ 2350

Hull Length:  15 - 18'

Weight Capacity: 2350 lb.

No. of Rollers: 16

Tire Size: SST 205/75R 14C

Approx. Width Between Fenders: 77 in.

Approx. Overall Width: 96 in.

Approx. Overall Length:  20 ft. - 4 in.

Approx. Weight:  672 lb.

T96RT 17-20/4000

Model:  TEZ 4000

Hull Length:  17 - 20/22'

Weight Capacity: 4000 lb.

No. of bunks:  2

Approx. Overall Length:  22.3 ft./+ 1.3 ft.

Approx. Weight:  948 lb.

T96RT 19-22/4700

Model:  TEZL 96 4700

Hull Length:  19 - 22/24'

Weight Capacity: 4700 lb.

No. of Bunks:  32

Axle Style:  Spring

Tire Size:  ST 205/75R 14C

Approx. Overall Length:  25 ft.

Approx. Weight:  1167 lb.

T96RT 19-22/5200

Model:  TEZ

Weight Capacity: 5200 lb.

No. of Bunks:  2

Approx. Overall Length:  25 ft. /+ 1 ft. 6 in.

Approx. Weight:  1119 lb.

T96RT 23-25/5800

Model:  TEZR 5800

Hull Length:  23 - 25/27'

Weight Capacity: 5800 lb.

No. of Bunks:  48

Tire Size:  ST 215/75R 14C

Approx. Overall Length:  26 ft. /+ 2 ft. 

Approx. Weight:  1640 lb.

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#2081 • EZ Loader 68BT 14′-17′ 1250 13″ Skiff Trailer

$ 2,699.99 Original price was: $2,699.99. $ 2,399.99 Current price is: $2,399.99.

• 2″ Coupler 
• Torsion Axle 
• Sealed 5 Lug Hubs No Maintenance 
• 13” Radial Tires 175/80R/13C
• Aluminum Lionshead Wheels
• Aluminum Fenders 
• Boss Wheel Jack
• Hot Dipped Galvanized Frame – Bolt Together
• Upgraded Options
• Skiff Flat Bow Support –
• Winch Stand Heavy Duty Winch Head
• 2″x 6″x 8′ Bunk Board Supports
• 52.5” Between Fenders
• 68″ Overall Width
• 19′ Overall Length
• 10’6″Min. – 15′Max. D-ring – Drain Plug
• GVWR 1560 Pounds
• Shipping Weight 310 Pounds
• Carrying Capacity 1250 Pounds
• Galvanized Steel American Made

2 Year Trailer Warranty

*Product Images May Show Options and Features Not Included* 

EZ Loader bunk trailers offer excellent support with fully adjustable bunks to give your boat the perfect fit. Choose from a variety of finishes, styles and optional equipment and get your boat to the water with ease.

Contact Us For Details

Call: 843.784.5797 OR Email: [email protected]

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EZ Loader 68BT 14-17 1250

The EZ Loader 68BT 14-17 1250 is an excellent trailer choice for those looking to transport small to medium-sized boats, especially Carolina Skiffs. This model accommodates boats from 14 to 17 feet in length and supports up to 1250 pounds, making it versatile for various users, from occasional boaters to avid anglers.

Crafted with materials that resist wear and corrosion, the EZ Loader 68BT is built to last, whether used in fresh or saltwater environments. It is available in either bunk or roller configurations. The bunk style provides stable support for flat-bottom vessels like Carolina Skiffs, ensuring a secure transport. In contrast, the roller style simplifies the boat loading and unloading process, which is beneficial for those who visit diverse launch sites.

68BT 14-17 1250 Skiff J 14-16 Set Up

This trailer prioritizes safety with features such as effective braking systems and sturdy fender guards to safeguard the boat and trailer on the move. It is also designed for straightforward maintenance, allowing owners to easily keep the trailer in excellent condition.

Offered by 411Marine.com, the EZ Loader 68BT 14-17 1250 stands out for its robust construction, ease of use, and safety features. It is a practical investment for both recreational and serious boaters, providing reliable transport solutions for various boating scenarios.

This model reflects EZ Loader’s commitment to quality and customer satisfaction, making it a top choice for transporting boats securely and efficiently.

A message from the owner of 411Marine:

The EZ Loader 68BT Skiff is a highly adaptable trailer, designed specifically for flat-bottom Jon or Skiff-type boats. We have enhanced its functionality by incorporating a flat bow stop support and a more robust winch stand and winch, similar to those used on our larger trailers. For added stability, we’ve upgraded to 2″ x 6″ x 8′ carpeted bunk boards.

We also offer a variety of custom modifications to perfectly suit your specific needs. Options for additional guides are available to ensure an exact fit for your vessel. Please reach out to us with the year, make, and model of your boat via email or phone.

To view the Base version of the above trailer: Follow this Link 68BT 14-17 1250

Looking forward to the opportunity to meet with you in person and discuss how we can serve your boating needs

411Marine also is the place to shop for your replacement or upgrade EZ Loader boat trailer parts.   Follow this link to our new trailer parts website .

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#2061 • ABC 10-14 1250 13″ Boston Whaler or Carolina Skiff 11-14

#2021 • EZ Loader 67BT 12′-14′ 1200

#2006 • EZ Loader 58BS 14 800 Double Kayak

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In order to provide boat trailer parts, we need to know the VIN/serial number of your EZ Loader boat trailer.

VIN NUMBER LOCATION

The VIN/serial number is usually located either on the side of the trailer frame behind the tongue, or on the right tail light.

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EZ Loader Boat Trailer Serial Number

If your serial number begins with “ 1L8 ” instead of “ 1ZE “, the trailer was built by the EZ Loader’s Custom Division .

Please call 1-800-553-7855 for assistance as we do not have access to the custom division parts .

Model: EZR 17-20 3100

If you do not find what you are looking for, fill up this inquiry form or contact  us ., click on the part number to add parts to the “ your saved parts ” to request a quote., disclaimer: images may not always be accurate to the part #.

EZ LOADER OIL BATH CAP

Comes with: O-Ring

EZ LOADER 5 ON 4 1/2" HUB KIT

Comes with: Bearing Kit (L44649 2pcs) & Oil Cap (1pc)

EZ LOADER 5 ON 4 1/2" IDLER HUB KIT

Comes with: Bearing Kit (L68149 & L44649) & Oil Cap (1pc)

KNOTT HUB KIT

EZ LOADER O RING

HUB & DRUM KIT 10" OIL

HUB & DRUM KIT 10" GREASE

EZ LOADER PLUG 1/8"

WHEEL BEARING KIT BT 150/151

Kit Includes: L44649 (2), L44610 (2), Cotter Pin & Seal #12194TC

WHEEL BEARING KIT 5-LUG TAPPERED SPINDLE

Kit Includes: L68149, L44649, L68111, L44610 & Seal #168255TC

ROLLER ARM MOUNTING PLATE

LEAF SPRING AXLE MOUNTING KIT

Includes: U-Bolts, Nuts and Plates

DISC BRAKE KIT UFP 10"

Includes: Rotors, Calipers, Pads and mounting hardware.

BACKING PLATE 10" HYDRAULIC

ELECTRIC BRAKE ASSEMBLY

Dacromet and Zinc Work as Well as Galvanized

BACKING PLATE 12" HYDRAULIC

EZ LOADER SPRINGS

EZ LOADER SPRING BUSHING KIT

Includes: Steel Bushings (2) Nylon Bushings (2), Shackle Bolts (2) & Nuts (2)

EZ LOADER BUSHING SPRING

EQUALIZER SHACKLE LEAF SPRING

BUSHING EQUALIZER TANDEM/TRIPLE

HANGER SPRING LIGHT (3/16")

EZ LOADER CAP BEARING PROTECTOR

U-BOLT 1/2-13 x 3 x 3 1/4"

U-BOLT 1/2-13 x 2 x 4 1/2"

U-BOLT 3/8-16 x 1 1/2 x 3 3/8"

U-BOLT 3/8-16x3/4 x2"

U-BOLT 4 ½” X 3” X ½”

U-BOLT 1/2-13 x 2 x 5 1/2"

U-BOLT 3/8-16x2 1/16x4"

U-BOLT 1/2-13 x 3 x 5 1/4"

WASHER FLAT 3/8"

WASHER FLAT 1/2"

WASHER FLAT 5/8"

EZ LOADER WASHER 1"

WASHER 1/2"

WASHER FLAT KEYED 13/16"

WASHER TONGUED SPINDLE 13/16"

SPINDLE NUT RETAINER WASHER

NUT HUB 13/16" ID

SEAL (#12194TC)

SEAL (#168255TC)

SEAL (#21334TC) 6H & 8H

HYDRAULIC BRAKE HOSE 24"

HYDRAULIC HOSE 24" (M-M)

HYDRAULIC HOSE TRSN 16" (M-M)

SOCKET HEAD CS 7/16"

EZ LOADER TAIL LIGHT LED COMPOSITE

EZ LOADER COMPLETE TAIL LIGHT W/ HARDWARE

LED TAIL LIGHT w/ PLUG & FASTENERS

MARKER LED LIGHT FENDER

Grommet sold separately

MARKER LED LIGHT (OFF-SHORE)

EZ LOADER GROMMET

CAP BASE FOR 250-028891

Dimensions: 2 ½” x 1 ¾”. Incandescent Bulb.

LIGHT FRONT SIDEMARKER LENS AMBER

Dimensions: 2 ½” x 1 ¾”

LIGHT LED AMBER TONGUE 6"

CLEARANCE LIGHT LED

For Pontoon Boat Trailer

CLEARANCE LIGHT AMBER

EZ LOADER FENDER FOR 12" TIRES

EZ LOADER FENDER FOR 13" TIRES

EZ LOADER FENDER FOR 14" & 15" TIRES

EZ LOADER FENDER, 1 STEP TRIMMED (M)

EZ LOADER FENDER, 1 STEP TRIMMED

Right Front / Left Rear Fender

Left Front / Right Rear Fender

FENDER (M) NO LIGHT HOLE

TAIL LIGHT COVER (GRAY)

TAIL LIGHT COVER (BLACK)

EZ LOADER FENDER WASHER SPACER

ROLL ARM CASTING 18" RF/LR

EZ LOADER ROLL w/ WASHER 4 7/8"

Comes with: Roller (1), Nylon Bushing (1) & Outer Washer (2)

EZ LOADER HOGRING

EZ LOADER BUSHING ROLL INSERT

EZ LOADER GLIDE ROLL ARM POLY

STRAP BENT BUNK/ROLL CHANNEL UPRIGHT

Short , Galvanized

CHANNEL BUNK OR ROLLER MOUNT

WASHER DELRIN 4" O.D.

WASHER DELRIN 2.66" O.D.

BOLT 1/2-13 x 25 3/4"

CROSSMEMBER WLD'D ROLL 2x4" (70.72)

STRAP BUNK MTG (3/8 x 2 x 22")

ROLLER QUAD / MULT MOUNTING STRAP KIT

BUNK CHANNEL MOUNTING 8" (6 HOLE)

BUNK MOUNTING BRACKET

HANGER SPG CMPT (ONE PIECE)

BRACKET SPRINT BUNK MOUNTING 9"

CHANNEL GLIDE BUNK COVER

ROLL "V" BOW STOP

KEEL ROLLER REPLACEMENT

ROLLER END CAP

STEP LARGE 2" FRAME (COMPOSITE)

WINCH STRAP 2" x 14ft

WINCH STRAP 2" x 20ft

STRAP BOW STOP

WINCH HEAD FORMED (CS XX-2)

WINCH 1500#

CAP LOCKOUT UPGRADE UFP

PLATE BENT BUNK MTG 3/16 x 3 x 3

BOLT STRAP 3/8 x 2" U BOLT

STUD LUG 1/2 20 x 2"

BOLT 5/8 11x6" HH G5 SS

BOLT 3/8-16 x 1" HH G5 (ZINC PLATED)

BOLT 3/8-16 x 1 1/4" HH G5 (ZINC PLATED)

BOLT 3/8-16 x 1 1/2" HH G5 (ZINC PLATED)

BOLT 1/2-13 x 1 1/2" HH G5 (ZINC PLATED)

BOLT 7/16-20 x 1" HH G5 (ZINC PLATED)

BOLT 3/8-16 x 3" HH G5 (ZINC PLATED)

BOLT 1/2-13 x 3 1/2" HH G5 (ZINC PLATED)

BOLT 1/2-13 x 4" HH G5 (ZINC PLATED)

BOLT 1/2-13 x 4 1/2" HH G5 (ZINC PLATED)

BOLT 1/2-13 x 5" HH G5 (ZINC PLATED)

BUNK SCREW LAG 5/16x1 1/2" SS

BUNK SCREW 5/16 x 1 1/4 (ZP)

BOLT 3/8-16 x 4" HH G5 (ZINC PLATED)

BOLT 1/2-13 x 1" HH G5 (ZINC PLATED)

BOLT 1/2-13 x 3" HH G5 (ZING PLATED)

BOLT 9/16-12 x 3" HH G5 (ZINC PLATED)

BOLT 3/8-16 x 3/4" HH G5 (ZINC PLATED)

BOLT 3/8-16 x 2 1/2"

SPARE TIRE CARRIER (4.5x3" I-TUBE)

FULTON BUNK CARPETING 8" WIDE

FULTON BUNK CARPETING 12" WIDE

SEASENSE BUNK CARPETING 8" WIDE

SEASENSE BUNK CARPETING 12" WIDE

FULTON BOAT GUIDE 20"

FULTON BOAT GUIDE 50"

ACTUATOR HYDRAULIC DRUM 7500#

BREAK AWAY CABLE UFP

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EZ Loader trailer

• Thread starter packman
• Start date Aug 24, 2009
• Forums for All Owners
• Trailer Sailors

Hello all, I have a Lancer 27PS, not your usual trailer sailor. I bought an EZ loader trailer pretty reasonable but have no experience trailering. I thought talking to the experts might be a better way to fly. My boat has a fixed keel and a 4' 3" draft, weighs in excess of 5300lbs. I understand the theory of how to load/launch from this trailer, but it's not set up for my boat yet and I'm a little leery about dropping things. Any suggestions? advice? Thanks  

Mine came set up so take this advice as you would anything you didn't pay for . . . 8^) Seems like the best thing would be to use a sling or travel-lift to pull the boat, have them set it on the trailer and then adjust the pads before they pull off the slings. Keep in mind that the pads keep the boat from wobbling on the trailer and the vast majority of the weight should be on the keel. I've no idea of what the "correct" way to do it is but I'll tell you how I'd at least figure out where the pads need to be if a sling isn't available. I'd take plumb bob and a tape measure. I'd measure the horizontal distance from the center of the trailer to the center of each stand. I'd use that distance to determine where it hits on the boat (this is where the plumb bob comes in - tape on the ground, move the plumb bob out until it's over the correct measurement). I'd measure the vertical distance from that spot to the bottom of the keel. That would give me a rough idea of what height the pad needs to be at with the boat on the trailer. I did find a picture online that shows one of these boats on a steel support stand. Might be helpful to you for placement of your pads. http://www.yachtworld.com/core/list...2/Huntington/NY/United-States&boat_id=1025492 Fore/aft placement on the trailer is not something I'm prepared to comment on beyond saying you need to get the tongue weight right before you go bombing down the highway. Too much/too little weight can equal loss of control. For my Catalina Capri 22 (4' keel) we launch/retrieve at the end of 30' of tow straps connected to a tow hook on the front of the truck. The trailer has dolly wheels at the front and a bridle that connects to the straps. Launching is fairly straight forward - run it down the ramp and it floats off . Retrieval requires a come-along to pull the boat all the way forward on the trailer (after it's out of the water) as the slope of the ramp leaves it about 4 inches too far back. Hope this helps  

Thanks Chris, that is very helpful  

watercolors II

Trailering Ideas Everyone go out side, sit down at a distance from the side of your boat on the trailer and think of what you have seen at the marina and see if it applies to what you’re looking at now. When you were at the marina, you mostly saw power boats being launched and retrieved. Think of what the hull of a powerboat looks like, a planing hull, the sides are straight, the stern is as wide as the mid section and the bottom is flat or has a deep V center with two flat bottoms leading up to the bow where it starts to curve forward. The guys back the trailer half way into the water and attach 10 to 15 feet of line to the boat and with the winch crank it onto the trailer. Think about the trailer, the bunks, if you do not remember that they were perfectly straight then do a internet search for power boat trailers and you will see. Now what do you see, a displacement hull, much bigger in the middle with nice curved sides and bottom, all of the curves lead to the stern and the bow, the stern was not designed to sit deep in the water but actually out of the water, if you have a waterline stripe it will run in under the stern to it’s very bottom tip. Then there’s the keel, hanging down below all of these curved bottom lines. LOOK at the trailer bunks, curved to fit the shape of the hull. Do you now think you can retrieve this boat on to that trailer like you’ve seen power boats being done at the marina. NO! You can not! .. if you are, then you’re applying forces to the boat and trailer beyond their design. Bow eyes become loose on the boat and the mounting bracket of the trailer winch will bend into the up position and appear loose also. Adjusting sailboats on trailers out of the water by winching or sliding with the vehicle brakes is a NO, NO! Sailboats are much heavier than power boats of equal length and if you’re water ballast then out of the water you’re much heavier. Sailboats must be floated onto their trailers. You must place your trailer deep into the water so the front of the bunks are 2 to 4 inches below the surface of the water. If you can not achieve this then you need an extension on your trailer so you can! Placing the front of the bunks under the water surface allows the boat to float up to about 1 to 2 feet from the bow chock. As stated the winch is not for winching the boat out of the water onto the trailer and the tower is not for keeping the boat from sliding off the trailer as it is pulled down the highway. Your boats bottom is curved and the bunks are curved, your boat will not slide off, but bounce off, so running a strap around the boat and bunks will eliminate this, So now the front tower with a bow chock becomes a stop for the exact placement of the boat on its trailer. Too far forward and the tongue weight affects the handling of the tow vehicle, too far backwards this affects the handling of the trailer, so the exact placement on the trailer every time is very critical, 1 to 2 inches difference can have problems towing. After you FLOAT the boat onto the trailer bunks, think of this, your boat is perfectly level floating on the water, but your trailer is on an angled launch ramp, so they do not match up in the vertical dimension but when you pull the boat up to the front trailer stop, the tower and it’s chock, the boat and trailer is in the correct horizontal dimension, but still not in the vertical. If you float the boat up to this front boat stop, the stern of the boat is floating above the rear of the trailer bunks so when you pull everything out of the water the back of boat moves down onto the rear of the bunks, the forward area resting on the front of the bunks will now act as a pivot throwing the bow up and away from the tower and thus unweighting the tongue and making the trailer unstable towing. You submerge your trailer, you float your boat up to 1 to 2 feet from the front trailer stop. Now what you want to do is lift the bow up out of the water thus sinking the stern, this is why the winch must be level or slightly higher than the final boat resting position. The front of your trailer bunks are submerged and wet so the hull will slide on them very easy and with a mooring line attached to the bow a person should be able to pull the boat forward another 6 inches thus lifting the boat bow a couple inches up as they slide on the front of the submerged bunks, now your boat is only 6 to 18 inches from its final resting place. The boat is no longer level, it is starting to match the angle of the trailer on the launch ramp! Attach the winch which is now in easy reach and finish pulling and lifting the bow of the boat up to the pre-determined limit. As you crank the winch the bow will move forward as well as up, the stern will sink. What would be ideal is for the chock to be in a position above the bow eye so when the boat reaches its final position on the trailer the chock acts as a final stop guide as the bow eye touches the bottom of the chock. If someone is helping you “just crank until the boat eye touches the black rubber trailer stop”. Your winch will only be lifting a couple hundred lbs.. not half the boat weight, and the boat will now match the angle of the trailer. Note: I’ve attached a bow roller so I can pull and lift the bow of my Catalina 22 to within 6” of the bow chock thus only making a couple cranks on the winch. If you attempt to do this, place the roller 1/2 to 3/4 inches below the hull so the weight of the hull is not on this roller when towing, it will act as a presure point on the hull as the trailer flexes on rough highways. This roller will help with the lift because when standing in front of the winch you can only pull not lift, the roller will create less resistance than the hull sliding on the front of the bunks, the winch will then lift the hull up away from this roller at it’s final stopped resting position.  

Trailer adjustments Setting your trailer bunks or pads for height will be trial and error. Check the tongue weight on your present setup. 10% of the weight of the boat, or about 500 lbs for your boat, on the trailer hitch. If it’s more, then you’ll have two ways to solve the problem, 1 move the trailer axles forward or, 2 move the boat backwards on the trailer. The easiest is the axles, look at your trailer in the area where the axles are attached to the main sides of the trailer. The axle is attached to the bottom center of the spring, each end of the spring is attached to the trailer with one long bolt at each end. Now, the question is, are these long bolts through the spring attached directly to the main sides of the trailer or is there another member between them. If the trailer was built for that boat and only that boat then the trailer was cheapen by attaching the axles permanently and it becomes very difficult to change it. If the trailer was built for many models or sizes of boats then one trailer can be adjusted to fit all and one of the adjustments is the ability to move the axles forward or backwards to fit the centering weight of each boat. To do this the manufacture attaches the ends of the springs to a separate smaller frame and then this frame is attached to the mainframe. The fender will be attached to this separate frame so the fender aligns with the wheels when they move forward or backwards. This extra frame is attached to the mainframe with just a couple bolts that can be rebolted in another location or with U-bolts that allows this extra frame to slide on the mainframe. If the axles are not adjustable then the boat will have to be moved on the bunks. After you launch the boat move the bow chock backwards by moving the stand or shimming the chock it’s self. One inch can make a big difference. Just make sure you do not go to far. Unweighting the tongue affects the stability of the boat and trailer going down the highway. If the boat and trailer sways just a little at any speed when going perfectly straight then you’ll need more tongue weight.  

Adjusting Bunks for proper hull support Watercolors... this is great info! Just one more question. I understand adjusting the bunks for proper weight distribution on the trailer but how about the weight distribution between what the keel should support and the weight supported by the bunks? Does the keel take the majority of the weight and the bunks just provide lateral stability? I have a used trailer that needs to be adjusted and I want to make sure I'm doing it right... very hard to find any info on this subject and your knowledge is very much appreciated.  

Trailer bunks adjustment The keel is attached to the strongest part of the hull and the hull supports this heavy keel obviously, but it does this when every square inch of the bottom of the hull is supported by the water. Now placing the hull on bunks with less than 1/50 the support of the water what’s going to happen to the hull with all that extra weight hanging on the bottom and the extra weight you have placed inside. Set the boat on the hull bunks so the keel is slightly higher than the keel bunk, say you can slide the side of a cereal box underneath. Now shim the keel bunk up tight to the bottom of the keel. You do not know if the hull is distorted or stressed in this position but, the keel will not add any additional. In this position the keel will not have a down pull or an up push effect on the hull when the trailer starts to bounce going down the highway. Make sure the boat is strapped to the trailer to eliminate any bounce between trailer and boat. Stressed or distorted hull on the trailer will show up when you try to rig the forestay, “everything I try the forestay is too short”. The forestay should be loose when sailing in light wind conditions so, not being able to attach when rigging means you have a problem. If you encounter this every time you rig then try rigging with the boat in the water. I’ve seen this a couple times and it means you need additional support under the hull when on the trailer.  

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EZ Loader Boat Trailers Adds Custom Trailers for Performance Boats

• By Charles Plueddeman
• July 7, 2023

The complete refurbishing of Fountain Powerboats hull #1 included new power, new rigging, new interior, new paint – and a new trailer. The original trailer was looking a little shabby, and it ruined the presentation. Reggie Fountain turned to EZ Loader for a new custom trailer to get his boat down the road.

EZ Loader has been building trailers since 1953 and is ubiquitous in the adjustable trailer segment, both as an aftermarket and OEM supplier. It recently added to its portfolio custom aluminum trailers for performance boats up to 42 feet and 24,000 pounds, where it plans to compete with the big names in that market, MYCO and Evolution .

We spoke to Conrad West, general manager of the EZ Loader Custom division, about what goes into building a custom trailer for a performance boat.

“When we build a trailer for a new production boat, we can usually get computer design files from the builder that we use to create a CAD file for the trailer,” explained West, “We work with the boat manufacturer to confirm the boat is supported in structural areas to eliminate hull damage or deformation. For an older boat like Reggie’s Executioner, it’s a much more complicated process. We send an engineer to the boat to hand-measure and make a map of the bottom to plot the location of strakes and chines, of through-hull fittings, and every little detail. Bunks need to align with the strakes, both to support the boat where it is rigid and also to help it self-load using the strakes as guides on the bunks. We also need to consider boat weight and the center of gravity to determine axle rating and location.”

In the future, West says EZ Loader will invest in a digital scan tool that will speed up the measuring process.

Like most performance boat trailers, the EZ Loader frame is formed of 6061-T6 Structural aluminum C-channel, rather than I-beam aluminum. West says C-channel is not necessarily stronger than I-beam, “but it looks substantial, and the smooth sides leave room for custom graphics, especially important for race boats.”

Read Next: How to Protect Your Boat Trailer from Corrosion

EZ Loader fabricates custom trailers on a dedicated jig. Trailer construction starts upside down and then the entire trailer is rotated on the jig. This process allows for multiple weld passes reducing “heat affected zones” and eliminating overhead welding. All electrical connectors are crimped and covered with heat shrink.

EZ Loader built a test-fit frame for the Fountain and checked its fitment on site before completing the trailer. West says the build time for a custom trailer is eight weeks for a production boat with available digital files. For an older boat, build time will be influenced by the location and complexity of the boat. Prices range from $20,000 to $35,000 depending on boat length and weight, and features. The trailer features triple torsion axles and electric-over-hydraulic brakes on each wheel. One custom flourish on this trailer is LED lighting under the frame that makes the ground glow at night. Other features a customer may order include toolboxes, a bow ladder, back-up lights, custom wheels and an electric tongue jack.

EZ Loader custom trailers are certified by NATM (National Association of Trailer Manufacturers) and NMMA (National Marine Manufacturers Association). EZ Loader partners with BoatUS to provide a complimentary one-year membership with TowAssist for both the trailer and the tow vehicle. The result is a trailer that looks great and will transport a performance boat with confidence and safety.

• More: Boats , Performance Boats , Trailering

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