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How to Pick an Anchor Rope Size, Type, Length and More

Every anchor needs to be attached to the boat some how. In this article we'll discuss everything anyone ever needed to know about anchor rode.

Video: Everything You Need to Know About Anchor Rode

The video below answers many of the topics addressed here although the article goes into more detail (so there is some reward for reading!).

What is anchor rode?

Rode simply refers to the line and/or chain that connects the anchor to your boat. (Believe it or not,   rode   is not a typo!)

Ideally, the rode for any anchor setup should consist of both chain and rope. The chain should be on the end with the anchor. Why use both chain and rope? First, it keeps the nylon rode from wearing away by rubbing on the bottom of the sea-floor as the boat swings. Second, because the chain is heavy, it holds the rode to the bottom so the pull on the anchor is horizontal, which reduces the chances of your anchor unsetting.

What type of rope should I use? Nylon, Polyester, or ...?

For most boaters, the best type of rope to use when anchoring is nylon. Nylon has many advantages for anchoring including:

• It's elastic therefore offering good shock absorption
• Light and flexible
• Good strength
• The most common anchor rope found in marine stores

Nylon anchor rope is light, flexible, strong, and provides elasticity, which mitigates peak loads on your anchor and boat. Unfortunately, the very fact that nylon stretches means that it creates heat and will eventually break down and need to be replaced. However, you want a strong rope that will absorb the shock from waves and sink, not float. Nylon fits the bill of all of these things.

What's the difference between braided and twisted rope?

In our experience, for most recreational boaters, the difference between using twisted anchor rope or braided anchor rope comes down to preference and taste. Both make excellent choices for an anchor rope but there are some subtle differences between these two styles of rope.

Braided Rope

• Less stiff and more flexible
• Frequently stronger than twisted rope
• Easier on the hands
• Difficult to splice
• Less stretch than twisted rope

Twisted Rope

• Fairly easy to splice
• Generally less expensive
• Has more stretch than braided
• Has a tendency to kink or hockle
• More stiff and less flexible

How much anchor rope do I need and what size?

One of the questions we get asked most often is, "How much anchor rope and/or chain do I need?" When selecting how much rope and chain you need there are a couple of rules of thumb to use.

• You should have 8 feet of rope for every 1 foot of water you will be anchoring in
• Your rope should have 1/8" of rope diameter for every 9' of boat.

So this means a 28' boat would want at least a 3/8" or 1/2" diameter rope. Rope is one of those things, like anchors, where bigger normally is better.

As for a rope choice, Nylon is the clear favorite due to the fact it is elastic and relatively strong,

How much anchor chain do I need and what size?

Along with the rope, you should also have a smaller amount of chain between the rope and the anchor. This chain will keep your rope from rubbing against the seabed and also creates the optimal angle between your rode and the seabed. The general rule of thumb is that you want approximately 1' of chain for every 1' of boat. So a 30' boat would want 30' of chain. However, often certain constraints such as weight and locker room will not allow this ideal chain amount so in these situations you should have at least 10-15' of anchor chain for the reasons mentioned above. For boaters anchoring in extreme conditions and/or for extended periods of time, you will want about 1 foot of chain for every 6 feet of rope. The reason for the different requirements is that, in theory, by having 1 foot of chain for every 6 feet of rope, an optimal angle between the rode and the seabed will be achieved.

What type of chain do I need? (I   am not   using a windlass)

If you're not using an anchor windlass, your life is easy! Any chain that you can buy at a marine store that follows the size rules above should be adequate. Hardware store chain can also sometimes suffice but you should always be conscious of the breaking strength of it and ensure that it is   galvanized . If you are not using a windlass, you can simply attach your rope to your anchor using a shackle in between (ideally your rope will have an eye and/or thimble spliced into one end to make attaching a shackle easy.

What type of chain do I need? (I   am   using a windlass)

If you are using an anchor windlass then your choices are limited and you must use only the type and size of chain specified by the windlass manufacturer. Normally this type of chain will be G4 or BBB chain. Don't have your windlass manual? We have an article that lists the  type and size of chain required by most popular sizes of windlass here . Windlass chain is a whole other topic and in fact, we have another article  all about windlass chain here . If you are using a windlass, remember that you must  splice   your rope to your chain as a shackle going through your windlass gypsy will be bad news. (You can also hook the shackle around your windlass as well once it gets to that point but that's a pain!) You can purchase a prespliced rope and chain package or you can  splice your own .

Published May 01, 2018

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Chain Sizing

Rode length/ scope.

The ratio of the length of rode to the water depth is known as the scope. Anchoring with sufficient scope brings the direction of strain close to parallel with the seabed. In general the longer your rode the better. 10:1 Scope is preferable in windy conditions. It’s recommended that an average cruising boat carries at least 300 feet of rode, which will allow for 10:1 scope in 25 feet of water (5 feet allotted for free-board height). This will ensure that most of the time you can anchor with 10:1 Scope.

It is generally accepted that in a storm situation we strive to put out 10:1 scope, but why? See how anchors maximum holding power varies with changing scope.

Many cruisers find that 10:1 scope is a nice compromise between rode length and maximizing anchors holding power.

Rode Strength:

ABYC data was developed in 1950s to indicate the strength required of an anchor, capstan, rode or a cleat. Tom Hale a past ABYC technical director said it is not unreasonable to apply the figures in the chart above to the entire anchor system.

After comparing this data in this table to work that has been done since we come to the conclusion that the values presented here represent loads expected on the anchor rode if anchored on chain only without the use of the snubbing system. Further using a line rode or and adequately designed snubber you can reduce the loads by a factor of 3, by eliminating the shock loads. This is an argument for why its so important to use a snubber but when sizing anchor rode or your anchor, it is important to consider loads as stated in the table. The reason is that we can not rely on the integrity of a snubber in a storm.  Should the snubber fail, the integrity of the rode should be sufficient to handle the loads without the snubber.

The ABYC Horizontal Working Load (lbs) Table

When sizing your gear you should make sure that the Working Limit Load (WLL) of your rode is higher than the loads expected in a storm. Sizing the working rode for a hurricane might not be practical but sustained winds greater than 40 kts are commonly encountered by cruising vessels on anchor. Sizing for such conditions is a reasonable way to approach the problem and is the basis for our recommendations.

WLL: Working Limit Load /Safe Working Load (SWL)/Normal Working Load (NWL) is the load that the rode can safely support without fear of breaking. Usually marked on the equipment by the manufacturer and it is often 1/3 to 1/4 of the Minimum Breaking Strength (MBS) for chain and 1/10 to 1/12 the Minimum Breaking Strength (MBS) for rope.

Manufacturers:

This is the list of the common chain manufacturers that sell in usa.

ACCO/PEERLESS

WESTMARINE (private labeled)

CERTIFYING BODIES: (the Standards from different certifying bodies some time overlap)

• NACM – National Association of Chain Manufacturers  (US Chain manufacturers make chain to NACM specs)
• ISO – International Standards Organization

Chain Link Geometry:

• Proof Coil Grade 30: Proof coil chain is a general purpose chain, frequently used for light duty tow chains, tie down chains and logging chains. Links are longer, thus the chain is lighter than BBB and G4 dimensioned chain for equivalent length.

• BBB: Short, compact links. The short link makes the chain more flexible and ideally suited for a windlass, usually made in Grade 30 only.

• G4 Dimensioned chain : Most common specification for Hi Test Chain sold in the USA.

• DIN 766 (Common Standard for Metric Chain)

• ISO4565 G70 Chain

• Grade L Chain (AS2321-2006) Grade 30 Chain specified for the Australian Market

• Stainless Steel Chain : Imported and US Made stainless steel chain is available made to various NACM, ISO, DIN specifications . Stainless Chain is available in several grades:  304, 316, Duplex. Duplex stainless steel chain is the strongest option available in Grade 60 and is more corrosion resistant than 304, 316 stainless steel and is ussually made to G4 and DIN776 dimensional standards.

Chain Grade:

National Association of Chain Manufacturers The chain grade is based on the nominal stress in the link at the design breaking force strength. (It is calculated by taking the minimum breaking force load and dividing by two times the nominal cross sectional area of the link.) Another words the higher the grade the stronger the chain. Chains Grade 80 and above are considered to be ok for overhead lifting. These higher grades are usually not easily accessible. Most common grades for anchor chain are Grade 30 (BBB & Proof Coil) & Grade 40 (HT)

Chain Strength Table:

Note: the WLL (Wroking load) for chain is usually defined ¼ of the UBS (Ultimate Breaking Strength) expressed in pounds for all chain types except G4, Grade 40 HTChain has the WLL defined as 1/3 of the UBS. It is unclear why the WLL definition is different for Grade 40 chain. To make the comparison easier we defined Working Load below for all chain as 1/4 of the UBS.

Main focus should be placed on sizing the chain for the expected loads. Using higher grades of chain can offer some weight saving however. For example, 300 feet of 3/8 BBB weighs 468 lbs vs. 300 feet of 5/16 G4 HT which weighs 310 lbs and has higher strength. Thus if taking 160 lbs off the bow is considered important, using higher grade chain definitely has its advantages. Another issue is matching the gypsy on the windlass to the chain size and type. A windlass gypsy designed for 5/16″ High Test chain will not work on 5/16″ BBB, which has shorter, more compact links. Many windlasses have a selection of gypsies, which can be Special Ordered to fit the rode on your boat. Often availability and the cost of the right gypsy enter the calculus of which chain size and type is right for you. It is important to remember not to compromise on the strength of the system when making such decisions.

Chain Sizing Recommendations:

How Much Chain:

It’s recommended that an average cruising boat carries at least 300 feet of chain, which will allow for 10:1 scope in 25 feet of water (5 feet allotted for freeboard height). This set up will ensure that most of the time you are anchored on chain and reduce the likelyhood of rode failure.

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Selecting the Right Anchor Size

Holding power increases with weight, but how much is hard to calculate..

Over the years Practical Sailor has conducted dozens of anchor tests, and like many publications, we’ve repeated the common guidance that cruising sailors should buy an anchor that is at least one size larger than what the maker recommends for your size vessel.

During the last two decades, however, the tremendous holding power of some newer generation anchors have caused us to re-think this guidance. Are we paying more for an anchor, rode, and the requisite anchor handling equipment than we need? How accurate are the makers size recommendations? How much insurance are we really getting for the price of a bigger anchor?

For this report we took a range of modern, sometimes called new generation anchors, and their predecessors and averaged their weight vs. vessel size recommendations (see accompanying table). Much to our surprise, the weight recommendations for the new designs, Rocna, Excel, Supreme, etc. are very similar to the weight recommendation for the older, traditional models, CQR, Delta, Bruce etc. In both cases, the recommendation for a 35-foot yacht is approximately a 30-pound anchor. The exceptions are aluminum anchors from Fortress and Spade.

Most of the new generation anchors have been tested to international standards established by the RINA (Registro Italian Naval) or some other internationally recognized society. Rocna, Fortress, Supreme, Excel, Spade have been found to meet standards of Super High Holding Power, SHHP. The older anchors, CQR, Bruce, Delta are rated as High Holding Power. The difference between the two categories is that the SHHP have been tested and found to have a hold, comparing anchors of the same weight, that is two times that of the HHP anchors.

So if we’re getting double the holding power, does that mean we can use an anchor that is half the weight? Not necessarily. Nor can you expect another doubling of holding power by doubling the weight of an SHHP anchor.

Despite the sales pitch that the new anchors have greater holding capacity pound-for-pound, the anchor makers are suggesting that you replace your old CQR with the same weight new anchor. It appears that manufacturers are, in effect, doubling the historic safety factor. And for a cautious sailor, there is nothing wrong with this.

However, consider the advice that is often repeated on internet forums, or the local scuttlebutt, that cruising sailors should increase one size over the makers recommendation. So instead of a 33-pound Rocna for your Tartan 37, you buy a 44-pound Rocna-now with potentially three times the safety factor of an old school anchor. Apart from the added significant expense, this obsession with upsizing – more anchor, more chain, bigger windlass-can also add potentially unnecessary weight and concentrate it in the bow.

So what do we really get with that bigger anchor? There is an idea that if you double weight of an anchor you will double holding power. Except with extra-large commercial anchors and some specific tests, we’ve found no data to support this.

No independent test, as far as we know, has taken a series of different sized anchors of the same design and tested them in the same seabed for ultimate holding capacity. Tests have been conducted on commercial oil rig anchors like the Bruce, and the best scaling is about 90 percent-double weight and you increase hold by 1.8 times.

The only recreational anchor that we are aware of that has undergone some testing to determine the relationship between weight and holding is Fortress (in mud only, see Anchoring in Squishy Bottoms, PS February 2015 ). An analysis of all their tests on a complete range of their anchor sizes suggest that if you triple weight you increase hold by slightly more than two times, approximately an 80 percent efficiency as size is scaled up.

Ultimately, this means that when someone tells you they can calculate the increase in holding power as you move up in size, be careful not to read too much into this conclusion. For one, the ratio used deserves close scrutiny. Surely, the bigger anchor will provide better holding-but how much? This hard to quantify, even with computer modeling. And no matter how accurate your calculation-a ratio based on performance in one type of bottom might not apply in another.

One reason you can’t claim that doubling the weight doubles the holding is that as anchors increase in size, the stress on the construction increases. To compensate for the increase in stress, the steel thicknesses must be increased – and more steel weighs more. So in an anchor whose holding power relies greatly on surface area and how it is distributed, adding more weight doesn’t necessarily result in a commensurate increase in surface area that provides holding power.

And as we’ve shown in our past tests-anchor dimensions (especially the fluke area) and shape can play a significant role in performance. It might be possible to double weight and double the holding power without beefing up the steel, but the resulting anchor would be less strong relative to its designed holding power.

Weaker construction might not matter on an over-engineered anchor. However, we have seen how the use of inferior materials has resulted in anchors that bend more easily at designed loads (see Anchor Tests: Bending More Shanks, PS May 2013 ).

Anchor Angles

In past reports, we’ve discussed in detail how anchor design can impact holding, especially with the new generation anchors ( see An Inquiry into Anchor Angles, PS February 2017 ). As you consider which design best suits your needs, here are some things to consider.

Fluke/shank angle. The fluke/shank angle is the angle between fluke and shank. It is one of the determining factors in how quickly and deeply an anchor sets. For a simple design with flat plate fluke and a straight shank (like a Guardian) the angle is a line down the center of the shank to the hinge and then along the fluke. In shanks with curves or angles, the first line is usually drawn from the shackle pin to the point there the shank meets the fluke.

For three-dimensional flukes (as found in most new generation anchors), you have to estimate where the top of the fluke plate lies. The ballast chamber or shank support that might protrude from the sole, such as with Spade, or Vulcan anchor should not be used to determine shank/fluke angle.

It is the fluke top surface that is important. In previous tests we reported that in thin mud an anchor with a fluke angle of around 45 degrees will outperform an identical anchor with its fluke angle set at 30 degrees. But a firmer sand seabed is entirely different, and research demonstrates the ideal fluke angle for a typical sand bottom is around 30 degrees (see Small Anchor Reset Tests, PS February 2013 ).

Fluke-seabed angle. This is the angle of the fluke to the seabed during the phases of anchoring-most importantly, during the initial penetration into the bottom, and when the anchor is set.

Penetration angle. When an anchor is aligned ready to set, or engage with the seabed (it might need tension on the rode to achieve this) then the fluke will usually be at an angle of 60-70 degrees to the seabed. Commonly the anchor is on its side.

Setting angle. Once the anchor starts to penetrate it will self align and the fluke plate tend quickly toward its setting angle, usually of about 30 degrees. It is coincidence that the fluke/shank angle and setting angle are similar though most anchors tend to show the similarity of the two angles. Center of gravity can have a great effect on penetration angle. This is why many new generation anchors, like the Ultra, have weighted flukes. Having a 30-degree fluke/shank angle is irrelevant if the center of gravity is in the wrong place.

Shank length

If you imagine a Fortress with a shank/fluke angle of 30 degrees but a shank three times longer than its original design, then you can visualize how the anchor will probably simply slide along the seabed when tensioned. The throat opening will be too small. Similarly if you chop the shank in half, the toe of the anchor will simply scrape along the seabed. In both case the anchor will find difficulty in engaging because the penetration angle will be wrong.

Are the makers of new generation anchors over-stating the need for bigger anchors, thus requiring boat owners to pay much more than they might need in order to be secure at anchor? Possibly. Would going with a larger-than-required anchor actually hurt your anchors performance? Unlikely. As is often the case with our anchor reports, it is hard to come with some firm answers regarding both of these questions. Anchor studies are fraught with variables.

In our view, it is no crime to go up one size over the manufacturers recommended size, if your boat and crew can handle it. The anchor may require more reverse throttle to set, but ultimately, it should provide the holding you require. Likewise, it is reasonable to assume that the anchor makers guidance for sizing is reasonable. However, if an online advocate starts telling you that youll get x times more holding power by going up one size, ask him for the data.

Extra weight in an anchor is your insurance policy. Yes, you can almost always get more security with the heavier anchor, but whether or not you will every need that extra holding power is not conclusive. In our view, conservative sizing is added insurance-but until the data is in, we remain skeptical of any absolute claims that attempt to quantify the advantages of more weight when choosing an anchor.

Based on average recommendations from leading anchor makers, the weight savings of upgrading to a second generation anchor doesn’t really pay off until you get into the larger size vessels.

In an anchor whose holding power relies greatly on surface area and how it is distributed, adding more weight doesn’t necessarily result in a commensurate increase in surface area that provides holding power. To compensate for the higher loads, the steel must be thicker, resulting in different surface area/weight ratios.

• As fluke size increases, so do the loads. But if the construction isn’t beefed up to handle the loads, the result is failure. Flat plate steel in this Danforth fluke sheered.
• The shaft of an Excel anchor bent during veer testing.
• The flat flukes of the Bugel anchor makes it easy to calculate the shank-fluke angle.
• Here a Rocna anchor is in the initial setting angle, still capsized on one side, with not enough of its toe is dug into the soil to dig in. Bottom shape and center of gravity (some designs are weighted to control CG), helps to determine this angle.
• This Manson Ray anchor has rolled upright and assumed the angle of penetration that will help the anchor to bury into the bottom.

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Anchor Selection: A Guide to Types and Sizes

Anchoring is a crucial aspect of boating, and the right anchor can provide stability, safety and peace of mind for any sailor. Choosing the correct type and size of anchor is essential, as it can greatly impact your overall experience on the water. This guide will outline the various types of anchors available, their ideal uses, and how to choose the right size for your boat.

Understanding the Purpose of Anchors

Anchors serve multiple purposes in boating:

• Holding power : Anchors are designed to provide holding power by digging into the seabed and creating resistance, preventing the boat from drifting.
• Temporary mooring : When a boat needs to be stationary for a short period, an anchor is used to secure it in place.
• Emergencies : Anchors can serve as a safety measure in emergencies by helping to control your boat’s movements in rough weather or if the engine fails.

Types of Anchors

There are several types of anchors to cater for various boating requirements and environments. The primary ones include:

Plow Anchors

Originally designed for large ships, plow anchors resemble a plowshare and offer excellent holding power in most bottom conditions, especially sand and mud. They work by digging into the seabed and maintaining a consistent grip. Plow anchors are popular among cruisers due to their adaptability, and they can handle a variety of wind and current changes.

Danforth Anchors

Also known as fluke anchors, Danforth anchors boast superior holding power in proportion to their weight. They’re characterized by their flat, sharp flukes and long shank that allows them to dig into soft substrates like sand and mud. However, Danforth anchors may struggle with rocky bottoms and can be challenging to set in grassy or weedy seabeds.

Claw Anchors

Claw anchors, also known as Bruce anchors, have three claws that provide holding power in a variety of bottom conditions. Due to their versatile design, they re-set easily when the boat’s position changes and can function with shorter scope, which is the anchor rode (chain or rope) payed out relative to the water’s depth. These factors make claw anchors popular among boaters, though their holding power may be less than that of plow or Danforth anchors.

Mushroom Anchors

Mushroom anchors are useful for small boats in relatively calm conditions. As the name suggests, they’re shaped like a mushroom and utilize their weight to create a suction effect, embedding themselves into soft bottom substrates like silt or mud. However, they generally offer limited holding power in stronger currents or wind.

Choosing the Right Size Anchor for Your Boat

Selecting the appropriate size anchor for your vessel involves considering factors like boat weight, size, and the windage (resistance to wind). Generally, anchor manufacturers offer recommendations based on boat length, but it’s essential to factor in your specific boat’s requirements and typical anchoring conditions.

Anchor Weight

Anchors are typically sized by weight, ranging from a few pounds for small vessels to several hundred pounds for large yachts. The rule of thumb is that the heavier the boat, the heavier the anchor should be. However, it’s important to consider the type of anchor you’re using, as the holding power varies across anchor designs.

Boat Length

Boat length is another crucial aspect to consider when selecting an anchor size. Consult manufacturer guidelines on their recommendations for anchor sizing based on boat length.

Chain and Rode Size

The anchor rode, which connects your boat to the anchor, is critical for holding power. The scope, typically measured in a ratio of the rode’s length to the water’s depth, is an important factor for the anchor’s performance. A common recommendation is using a 4:1 scope for temporary mooring and a 7:1 scope for overnight anchoring. Ensure the chain (the section of the rode closest to the anchor) is of suitable size and strength to prevent it from breaking under strain.

Final Thoughts

When selecting an anchor for your boat, it’s essential to consider the type, size, and the conditions in which you’ll be anchoring. Consult manufacturer guidelines and conduct thorough research on the options available to make an informed decision. A properly sized and suited anchor will offer peace of mind, ensuring your vessel remains securely moored during your adventures on the water.

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Clearance LIROS Racer Dyneema £55.08

Clearance Folding Stock Anchor £123.25

Clearance Sarca Excel Anchors £294.00

Clearance LIROS Herkules £0.00

Clearance Barton Size 0 Ball Bearing Blocks - 5mm £0.00

Clearance Marlow Blue Ocean® Doublebraid £18.48

Mooring Clearance

Anchoring clearance, standing rigging clearance, running rigging clearance, deck hardware clearance, chandlery clearance, safety clearance.

The Jimmy Green Anchor Size Comparison Chart is compiled from individual manufacturer recommendations and highlights how similar the suggestions are across various designs.

How to choose your Anchor Weight by Manufacturer Recommendation

• Find the column below that best represents your Boat Length Overall.
• Compare your displacement with the tonnage listed.
• If the displacement is greater than displayed in your column in the table, or the yacht is a multihull, consider moving across to the next column to increase the diameter.
• Consider the worst-case scenario for your anticipated Anchoring - this will dictate whether you go for the minimum required or the ocean cruising approach
• Consider the manufacturer sizing parameters listed below the tables 
• Compile a short list of potential anchors to consider

Rex Francis has set the Anchor Right parameters for the Sarca Excel in a slightly different format. However, it can still be compared with other anchor designs with a little interpretation.

SARCA Excel Parameters - Length and Displacement Anchor Right Advisory - If your boat is over the limit in either column, it is advisable to upgrade to the next size. Upgrading one size for a multihull or long-term anchor dependent cruising would also be considered good practice.

Most anchor manufacturers publish a recommended weight of anchor by either the length overall or a combination of length, displacement and windage.

Some top manufacturers also include weather conditions and distinguish between monohulls and multihulls.

The top manufacturers are generally conservative and specify more criteria to help you choose.

The authority of each manufacturer recommendation may be judged by several factors: reputation, personal experience, research, the number of relevant factors taken into account, and the amount of detailed information they publish on the subject.

The Jimmy Green Anchor Size Chart collates the recommended sizing for all the anchors we offer on our website and highlights how similar the recommendations are. Interpretation is still required, e.g. multihulls, high windage profile and extreme weather.

Anchor Sizing Parameters by Manufacturer

A more detailed explanation of how the data for individual anchors is presented and how it is collated into the Comparison Table follows:

Galvanised and Stainless Steel Anchors

Rocna, Vulcan and Rocna Mark2, Galvanised and Stainless Steel - Length and Displacement

Rocna/Vulcan recommend an anchor one size larger than indicated in their guide for multihulls

Quote from their Fitment Guide - ”our anchor sizing recommendations are intended to provide an anchor adequate for use in most all conditions. We base our calculations on 50 knots of wind, associated surge, and poor holding bottoms.”

Mantus Mark 1 and 2 – Length, Displacement and Wind Speed

Mantus Quote - “we are generally referring to the needs of a cruising boat spending most of its time on anchor. In doing so, we try to envelope high sustained winds (50 knots) and assume poor holding conditions (low viscosity bottoms).”

Mantus publish a chart in three categories – “Lunch Anchor category is recommended for lighter use, expected winds under 30 knots, working anchor for winds under 50 knots and finally, storm anchor recommendations are intended for winds above 50 knots.”

N.B. The Jimmy Green Comparison Table is derived from the Mantus middle category.

Spade Galvanised and Stainless Steel – Length and Displacement

Spade recommend an anchor one size larger than indicated in their guide for multihulls

UltraMarine Stainless Steel – The UltraMarine Anchor Size Guide considers multiple factors. Their comprehensive approach includes Length, Displacement, Mono/Multihull and Windage Profile criteria.

Lewmar Epsilon, Delta and Claw – Length only

Lewmar guidelines are illustrated in a shaded colour range by length only, so you need to judge displacement, i.e. light, average, or heavy, compared with similar length yachts. If the answer is heavy, upgrading to the next size is advisable.

Plastimo Britany – Length only

Plastimo Quote – “Anchor weight per boat length is only given as an indication. However, your anchor selection should also recognise the specific construction of your vessel.”

Using a lightweight anchor goes against the traditional belief that weight is one of the most critical factors in holding power.

Fortress Quote – “Fortress design does not depend upon weight to provide world class performance.”

However, the most popular application for aluminium anchors is as a convenient, high holding power secondary or kedge anchor.

Fortress/Guardian – Length only

Fortress Quote – “Boat anchor size recommendations are for boats of average windage and proportions in 30 knots of wind, average bottom conditions, and moderate protection from open seas. Remember that the loads in 42 knots of wind are twice as much as in 30 knots.”

Spade Aluminium – Length and Displacement

Spade recommend an anchor one size larger than indicated in their guide for multihulls.

Spade Quote – “Aluminium version not recommended for use as a primary anchor.”

Lewmar LFX – Length only

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Anchor Chain Sizing

Step 1 – Determine the length of your boat. The boat’s specification sheet, and sometimes the owner’s manual, will have your boat length listed. However, if you’re unsure of your boat length, measure the hull, from the tip of the bow to the center of the stern. Be certain to use a measuring tape that will not stretch, such as a steel tape. Also, do not include the bowsprit or any other fittings that may have been added to the hull.

Step 2 – Determine the weight of your boat. Again, the boat’s specification sheet, and sometimes the owner’s manual, will list the dry weight of the boat. If you’re still unsure of the weight of your boat, you can use a weigh station at a local truck stop. Just be certain to subtract the weight of your boat trailer

Step 3 – Determine what your desired maximum anchorage depth is.

Step 4 – Determine the diameter of chain to use. Use the following chart to determine the minimum diameter of chain to use for your boat.

Step 5 – Determine the length of chain to use. Your total “anchor rode” (the nylon rope and chain combined connecting the anchor to the boat) should be between four and seven times the expected anchorage depth, depending on how crowded the anchorage. More crowded anchorage sites typically mean using a shorter rode, because boats don’t have as much room to swing.

To determine the chain portion of the rode, again refer to the length of your hull. Your chain should be no shorter than the length of your boat, as the chain’s weight will help set the anchor.

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Boat Anchor Chain – 11 Things You Should Know

A boat anchor chain is one of the most important pieces of equipment on a boat. The chain attaches the anchor to the boat and provides a strong connection that can hold against even the strongest winds and waves. It’s important to choose a quality chain that will withstand wear and tear over time.

When choosing for a boat anchor chain, be sure to consider the thickness and strength of the metal. The thicker and stronger the chain, the more reliable it will be in difficult conditions. Also look for corrosion-resistant coating to protect it from rusting.

How is anchor chain made

When you’re cruising along and drop your anchor, you’re relying on a piece of equipment known as an anchor chain. This chain is made up of heavy-duty links that connect the anchor to the boat. It’s important to know how this crucial piece of equipment is made.

The process of making this chain begins with steel billets. These billets are heated until they are molten and then formed into chains. The chains are then put through a series of machines that polish and straighten them. They are also treated with a coating that helps to protect them from corrosion.

The links in an this chain can be up to nine inches long and weigh up to 14 pounds each. The entire chain can weigh more than 2,000 pounds.

Types of boat anchor chains

When it comes to boat anchor chains, there are three main types: galvanized, stainless steel, and nylon coated. The main difference between these chains is the material used in their construction. 

Galvanized chains are made of zinc-plated steel. This makes them less likely to corrode in salt water environments. However, they are also the heaviest and most expensive to consider.

Stainless steel chains are resistant to rust and corrosion. They are also lighter than galvanized chains, but more expensive. 

Nylon coated chains offer the best resistance to corrosion and abrasion. They are also lightweight and affordable.

Boat anchor chain size

When it comes to boat anchors, size does matter. The weight of the anchor is critical, but the size of the chain is also important. You don’t want to use a small chain with a large anchor, or a large chain with a small anchor.

The right size chain will help you set your anchor quickly and keep it in place. It’s also important to use a chain that is strong enough to hold your boat in place during high winds and rough seas.

The most common size for boat anchor chains is 5/16 inch. This size is strong enough to hold most boats in place, but it’s also lightweight and easy to handle. If you have a larger boat, you may want to use a chain that is 3/8 or 1/2 inch thick.

How much anchor chain do you need

Anchors and chains are important pieces of safety gear for any boat. It is important to know how much anchor chain you need for your boat in order to ensure that you have the proper weight and length of chain.

The first step is to determine the size of your anchor. This can be done by consulting your boat’s owner’s manual or by measuring the anchor itself. Once you have the size of your anchor, you can then use a chart to find out how much chain is needed.

Most boats will need between 50 and 100 feet of chain, depending on the size of the anchor and the depth of the water. It is also important to make sure that you have enough rope or line to attach the chain to the bow of your boat.

How to attach chain to anchor

When anchoring a boat, it is important to use a heavy chain to ensure the boat stays in place. The chain should be attached to the anchor and the anchor should be attached to the boat. There are several ways to do this.

One way is to use an iron shackle. This is a metal clip that can be opened and closed. The shackle can be attached to the chain and then attached to the anchor.

Another way is to use a swivel clip. This is a metal clip with a swivel on it. The swivel allows the clip to move around so that it can attach easily to both the chain and the anchor.

A third way is to use an anchor bridle. This is a piece of rope with loops on each end. One loop goes around the anchor and the other goes around the chain.

When to replace anchor chain

Anchor chain should be inspected regularly for signs of wear and tear. If the chain is worn or damaged, it needs to be replaced.

It’s important to know when to replace it. If the chain is heavily corroded, damaged, or has links that are missing or broken, it needs to be replaced. Another indication that it might be time for a new chain is if your current one doesn’t have enough length to reach the bottom in the area where you normally anchor. 

When replacing it, make sure you get the right size and type of chain for your boat.

How to choose the right anchor chain

When you’re looking for a new anchor chain, there are a few things you need to keep in mind.

The size of the boat or ship

When you are looking to buy anchor chain, it is important to consider the size of your boat or ship. If you have a smaller boat, you don’t need as much chain as someone with a larger boat. You also need to make sure that the chain is strong enough to hold your boat in place. 

The size of an anchor chain refers to the diameter of the links in the chain. A larger diameter will provide more strength and stability than a smaller diameter. It’s also important to make sure that the weight of the chain is appropriate for your boat. A heavy chain can cause problems with stability and maneuverability.

Materials of the chain

When you are choosing an anchor chain, you need to consider the material of the chain. One popular option for anchor chain material is stainless steel. Stainless steel is corrosion resistant and has a high breaking strength. However, it can be expensive and it is heavier than some other materials. 

Another option for this chain material is galvanized steel. Galvanized steel is less expensive than stainless steel and also corrosion resistant, but it does not have as high a breaking strength as stainless steel. 

Finally, some people choose to use nylon rope for their anchor chain. Nylon rope is lightweight and has a low breaking strength, but it is also very affordable.

The weight of the anchor

Whe weight of the anchor should be a major consideration when purchasing. Lighter anchors need lighter chain, while heavier anchors require heavier chain. If you choose an anchor that is too light for the chain you have, your anchor will not be able to set properly and could easily break free in a storm. 

If you choose an anchor that is too heavy for your chain, you could overload your system and cause damage to your boat or even worse, lose your boat.

The type of seabed

When choosing anchor chain, it is important to consider the type of seabed where you will be using it.

If you will be anchoring in sand or mud, you will need a heavy-duty chain with a large diameter. A chain with a small diameter will quickly become clogged with sediment and may not hold your boat in place. 

If you will be anchoring in rock, you will need a light-duty chain with a small diameter. A chain with a large diameter will cause damage to the rocks and may not hold your boat in place.

It’s also important to make sure that your chain is long enough to reach the bottom of the water where you will be anchoring.

Consider Price

Heavier and larger anchors are in general tend to be more expensive, but they are also more durable and can hold onto the bottom better in strong winds and currents.

If you’re looking for an anchor that will serve you well in a variety of conditions, it may be worth spending a little extra money on a high-quality model. However, if you’re only going to use your boat in calm waters, a less expensive option may be sufficient.

Where to buy anchor chain

If you are in the market for a new anchor chain, there are a few places you can buy it. The first place to look is usually an online retailer. There are a few reputable retailers that sell anchor chains, and they usually have a variety of sizes and lengths to choose from.

Another option is to go to a local marine store. These stores typically carry a wide variety of boat supplies, including anchor chains. They may also have anchors for sale, so it is worth checking out their inventory if you need both items.

Finally, you could also try looking for a salvage company in your area. These businesses typically sell used boat parts, and they may have an anchor chain or two available for purchase. Just be sure to ask about the condition of the chain before you buy it!

Boat anchor chain maintenance tips

Boat anchors are a necessary piece of equipment for any vessel, but proper care and maintenance is required to keep them functioning properly. One important part of anchor maintenance is keeping the chain healthy. The following tips can help you do just that:

• Inspect the chain regularly for signs of wear and tear. This includes looking for kinks, rust, and broken links.
• If you find any damage, remove the chain from service immediately and have it repaired by a qualified professional.
• Use a mild soap or detergent to clean the chain occasionally, making sure to rinse it thoroughly afterwards.
• Apply a coat of lubricant to the chain every few months to help keep it moving freely. You can apply coat of naval jelly to the links of the chain if you want. This will help to prevent corrosion. 
• Store the anchor and chain in a dry place when not in use.
• Never overload the chain or allow it to come into contact with sharp objects.
• Make sure all connections between links are tight and secure. Loose connections can cause chains to break under stress.
• If you have an electric windlass, make sure to keep it clean and well lubricated.
• Keep an extra anchor on hand, in case you need to replace one that is damaged or worn out.
• Practice using your anchors regularly, so that you’ll be familiar with how they work in different conditions.

Anchor chain vs Rope

The debate between anchor chain and rope has been around for years. Some people swear by anchor chains while others prefer ropes. So, what’s the difference?

Anchor chains are made of metal and typically weigh more than ropes. They are also less elastic, meaning they don’t stretch as much under tension. This makes them better suited for holding boats in place in windy or choppy waters. Anchor chains also tend to corrode less than ropes, making them a more durable option.

Ropes, on the other hand, are made of fibrous materials and can be lighter than chains. They are also more elastic, meaning they can stretch more under tension. This makes them better suited for tying down objects in calm waters. Ropes also tend to fray over time, while chains do not.

If your boat is heavy, then you’ll need a stronger anchor chain. A rope might not be able to hold the weight of your boat. However, if your boat is lightweight, then a rope will be just fine.

Another thing you need to consider is the type of bottom you’re anchored in. If you’re in mud or sand, an anchor chain will sink down and grip the bottom much better than a rope will.

Related: Which of the following must you do anchoring a boat at night? – 07 Things 

Stainless steel vs Galvanised anchor chain: Which is better?

When selecting an anchor chain for your boat, there are a few things you need to take into consideration. The two main types of chains are stainless steel and galvanised. So, which one should you choose?

Stainless steel anchors are made of high-quality steel that is resistant to rust and corrosion. This means they will last longer than galvanised anchors. They are also a little heavier, which can be a disadvantage when trying to lift them up off the bottom.

Galvanised anchors, on the other hand, are coated with a layer of zinc that protects them from rust and corrosion. This makes them less durable than stainless steel anchors, but they are much lighter in weight. This can be an advantage when trying to manoeuvre them into place.

However, if you live in a dry climate or your boat is stored in a covered area, galvanised chain would be fine. It’s also cheaper than stainless steel chain. If you live in a coastal area or plan to use your boat in salt water, we recommend opting for a stainless steel chain. Galvanised chain is fine for use in fresh water only.

Conclusion of Boat Anchor Chain

Boat anchor chains are an important part of any boat. They keep the boat anchored in one spot and prevent it from drifting. It is important to choose the right chain for your boat and make sure that it is properly attached.

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Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

Is your anchor chain up the job?

• November 6, 2020

It’s all well and good having a solid anchor, but having ground tackle that is going to keep you secure is equally important, says Vyv Cox

The equipment used to anchor our boats is constantly developing as new materials and designs appear, equipment is adapted from other technologies or existing items are improved.

Old ideas are constantly questioned by rigorous testing and field experience.

Secure anchoring isn’t just about the anchor itself, however.

The whole rode that connects the anchor to the boat, made up of a number of different parts, is arguably at least as important, if not more so, than the specifics of the anchor.

If you get your ground tackle set up correctly, with an understanding of its abilities and limitations, you can be confident that the much-maligned ‘weakest link’, is not going to let you down in challenging conditions.

First, some clarification, what is meant by a rode?

A rode (more archaically called ‘cable’) is whatever comprises the connection between the anchor shank and the fixed point at the other end on the boat.

It is customary to refer to an all-chain rode or a mixed rode, meaning chain plus rope, but realistically the term also includes any component used to join any part of it together.

SHACKLE OR SWIVEL?

Many people will argue that there is no need for a swivel at all.

In many cases where there is no problem with the chain twisting, this is true and my own adage is to fit one if you find you need it but not otherwise.

My choice is to fit one because it makes turning the anchor after recovery so much easier, when inevitably it comes up the ‘wrong’ way around, and this may even be essential for some self-launching and recovering anchor systems.

Some chains twist naturally, perhaps due to uneven wear on adjacent links and some shapes of anchor rotate quite violently as they are being recovered.

Using a shackle between chain and anchor is simple and strong, as long as twisting isn’t an issue

If you find that your chain is regularly twisted on recovery, or becomes twisted in the locker, it may be that a swivel will help.

There are other solutions to anchors emerging the ‘wrong’ way, to be discussed shortly.

If opting to use only a shackle it’s wise to select one a size bigger than the chain.

The pin of a 10mm shackle will fit through an 8mm chain link and most modern anchors are slotted to allow the eye of a shackle to pass through it.

The same applies to a 12/10mm combination.

Shackles come in two basic shapes,:a ‘D’ and a bow.

Bow shackles proved to be as strong as ‘D’ shackles

A ‘D’ would appear to offer better straight line strength but the bow would seem more able to cope with changes in pull direction.

The reality is that when I carried out destructive testing on both types there was no significant difference between either shape.

Chandlery-bought stainless steel shackles were generally stronger than their galvanised equivalents as shown in Table 1 below.

If we look at galvanised alloy steel shackles for the lifting and hoisting industries, however, we can see that those in the Crosby G209 A range, in Table 2 for example, are considerably stronger than any of the ‘marine’ offerings tested.

CMP, makers of the Rocna anchor, market another high strength shackle, the Titan Black Pin.

This make is marketed by some UK mail order chandleries.

Again, the strength offered by heat-treated alloy steel greatly exceeds the figures obtained from chandlery bought items, Table 3.

ANCHOR CONNECTORS

An answer to the problem of anchors recovered the ‘wrong’ way has been developed in Australia.

This is a simple asymmetric device called a Boomerang.

Gravity simply causes the anchor to rotate on the bow roller .

It is shackled to the anchor chain at one end and to a short length of chain between it and the anchor.

It therefore requires two shackles and an adequate distance between the bow roller and windlass.

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I tested a cranked swivel by Osculati working by the same principle but in my experience found it to inhibit setting of the anchor.

This may be due to the greater angular displacement offered by this device.

The marketplace offers a bewildering variety of swivels, ranging from roughly galvanised designs costing under £10 to beautifully engineered works of art in exotic materials costing well into three figures.

Connectors that are built down to a price will be fairly lightly built and will rely on two metal loops bolted together, as seen bottom right.

An anchor swivel will help eliminate twists, but the straight side arms can fail under lateral loading

This design is widely sold in chandleries and mail order outlets but any design that relies upon bolted components to carry the load of the chain or anchor is likely to have poor loading capacity and is best avoided.

In the destructive tests that I carried out the only swivels that had higher strength than the chain to which they were intended to connect were those in which the bolt simply held two forged parts together, the Osculati and the Kong.

In these the strength is provided by the forged construction, inherently strong and tough, as in the image below.

The only potential weakness would be if the connecting bolt were to undo, so I always use some thread lock on the swivel bolt.

This has proved to be totally reliable over 10 years plus.

The type illustrated has the disadvantage that any angled loads to the end of the anchor tend to bend the parallel arms of the swivel, although the designs normally offer lateral loading capacity equivalent to the SWL of the chain.

I devised a simple way to avoid the problem in 2007, reported in YM, and now widely used in anchoring advice.

Adding in three chain links between swivel and anchor retains the benefits, while allowing full articulation

This is the addition of two or three links of chain between the swivel and anchor, allowing total articulation.

More recently several manufacturers including Mantus and Ultra have introduced compact, expensive designs that allow articulation by eliminating side arms.

The top swivel shown above is by Mantus, using an incorporated bow shackle and forged pin to carry chain loads, while below it, the Ultra flip swivel uses two forged pins and utilises a ball joint that gives better articulation than parallel side arms up to about 45o-degrees of lateral displacement. Wasi make a similar swivel.

Were the anchor to be wedged in rock and the tide direction reversed, it could be imagined that high bending loads might be imposed upon the rather narrow necks, though the manufacturers claim breaking loads above that of chain.

A simple boomerang link will flip the anchor the right way up in recovery

The Osculati twist anchor connector combines the boomerang idea with a swivel

ANCHOR CHAIN

As a rough guide to the right size chain for your boat, in 8mm Grade 30 chain is sufficient for boats up to about 37ft, 10mm up to 45ft and 12mm above that, but the displacement of the boat is an additional factor.

There is also clearly a difference in the chain needed for weekend pottering and extended high-latitude cruising.

A good way to decide on chain size is to consult chandlery websites, where good information is available.

Chain failure is very rare, thanks to a typical safety factor of 4:1.

The length of chain needed is also very much location dependent.

Cruising the Irish Sea I carried little more than 50 metres but for more sustained cruising I have extended that and now carry 65 metres.

Some areas further afield are blessed with deeper water anchorages for which lengths of up to 100 metres may be desirable.

A well-drained chain locker will prolong the chain’s life

Chain is heavy

A yacht intending to cruise extensively might well carry 100 metres, amounting to 140kg for 8mm, 230kg for 10mm, stowed well forward where sailing performance would benefit least.

By substituting a smaller size but a higher grade some useful weight-saving is gained.

As an example, by reference to Table 4, carrying 100 metres of 8mm, Grade 70 instead of the same length in 10mm Grade 30 would save 90kg in the anchor locker and almost double the strength of the rode, from 4,800 to 8,400kg.

Marine chain in sizes up to 12mm is dominated by Chinese production, although one or two European manufacturers continue to produce.

The main UK importers of galvanised chain are probably Bainbridge and William Hackett.

The chain is nominally Grade 30 but testing has shown UTS figures to approach or even exceed the values required of Grade 40.

Many manufacturers reduce the thickness of zinc on production chain, with the result that many purchasers see rust after only two or three seasons.

AISI 316 stainless steel chain is normally to Grade 30 specification.

It is almost rust-free and its smooth finish does not heap in the locker, but it costs roughly four times that of galvanised chain.

Higher grades of stainless steel, 318L in Grades 50 and 60, are known as Cromox.

They have double the strength of 316 chain and considerably better corrosion resistance.

Chain in this material does not come cheap.

The Mantus (pictured above) and Ultra (below) are modern swivels that seek to eliminate earlier swivels’ weaknesses

The chief advantage of a mixed rode is weight saving, desirable in smaller or lighter yachts and particularly in catamarans.

Rope for mixed rodes may be three-strand or octoplait, either of which can be spliced to the chain if it is required to pass through a windlass.

Instructions for doing this are widely available on the internet but it will be necessary to consult the windlass manual to determine the precise type of splice that will pass through the gypsy.

Nylon is probably the most widely used material for this duty but polyester is also employed, nylon having rather more elasticity, especially in three-strand form, although nylon three-strand goes quite hard and inflexible after some time, not a desirable property in an anchor rode.

Octoplait seems to retain its flexibility to a greater extent.

Elasticity is very desirable in the rode, provided by a snubber in an all-chain rode but inherent in a mixed rode.

A medium-term problem with splices is that the rope remains wet for long periods, causing premature corrosion of the chain.

Regular inspection and fresh water washing is advisable.

For boats without a windlass, or for kedge use, it may be more convenient to splice a thimble into the end of the rope for attachment to the chain with a shackle.

A typical mixed rode will have about 30 metres of chain and maybe 50 metres of rope.

For most anchoring in moderate tidal ranges only the chain will be used, avoiding the difficulties that sometimes occur feeding rope into the chain locker, or worse, down a spurling pipe.

EXTENDING CHAIN

It is sometimes necessary to join two or more lengths of chain that are required to pass through a windlass.

This might be because it has been decided to carry a longer chain due to changing cruising grounds, or just because some corroded links need to be cut out.

The only way to do this is with a C-link.

This clever little device comprises two halves of a chain link that can be riveted together to form a single link.

When made up, and in the same material as the chain, a C-link has about half the strength of the mild steel chain that it is intended to join.

An eye splice is simpler, and can be connected via a shackle

A chain splice will allow the join to pass through a windlass

Chain stored with wet rope can rust more quickly

For this reason a top quality C-link is made from heat-treated alloy steel that is about twice as strong as mild steel.

The result is a link that is as strong, or more usually stronger, than the chain.

It is an unfortunate truth that the vast majority of C-links sold in chandleries are made from mild steel, or possibly stainless steel.

These will have 50 to 60% of the chain strength when well made up.

Once again we turn to the lifting and hoisting industry where we find alloy steel C-links that will not compromise the strength of our chain.

Crosby also supply these, known as the G335 ‘Missing Link’, in Table 5.

Due to the fact that they are hardened and tempered, it takes some serious effort to peen the rivets.

A large hammer and drift on an anvil is the recommended technique.

ATTACHMENT TO THE BOAT

It would be remiss not to mention attachment of your anchor rode’s bitter end to the boat.

Should you pay out too much chain or should the windlass fail without doing so could easily result in the loss of your ground tackle.

Do not, however, shackle your chain to the boat.

If the anchor becomes fouled, or you need to let go the anchor in an emergency, you need to be able to let it go under load, and the only reliable way of doing this is by lashing the end of the chain to a dead-eye in the anchor locker, so that it can be cut in a hurry, or untied and attached to a large fender, should you need to let go the chain.

It’s also worth inspecting the dead-eye itself: is it big enough fitting?

Is the bulkhead it is bolted into in good condition, and does it have something to spread the load on the other side?

RECOMMENDATIONS

The rode’s bitter end should be securely attached to a solid point in the locker, but must be easy to let go in an emergency

C-Links are used to join chain. The two halves are placed together and the rivet peened inside the hole with a hammer and drift until fully secure

Modern anchors offer great improvements in holding power compared to those of yesteryear.

The rode that attaches them to the boat should also be of good quality.

Nominal Grade 30 chain is probably the most widely used and is generally totally reliable but, if the boat size is marginal for the recommended size, increasing the grade provides greater strength without the expense of a windlass gypsy change.

Grades 40 and 70 offer strength increases while Cromox gives the additional corrosion resistance.

Swivels should be types that do not rely on bolts to carry anchoring loads, whether on the anchor or the chain attachment.

Only use a swivel if you find it useful as they are not essential and can introduce weakness to the rode.

Galvanised alloy steel shackles from the lifting industry provide the greatest strength.

Wichard HR shackles (17/4 PH) were the strongest stainless steel shackles in testing.

Nylon rope has greater elasticity than polyester and three-strand construction has more elasticity than octoplait.

Nylon octoplait is a good compromise.

Alloy steel C-links from the lifting industry are as strong as Grade 30 chain but not advised for higher grades.

Mild steel and 316 stainless steel C-links have about half the strength of Grade 30 chain.

About the author

Vyv Cox is a retired metallurgist and engineer who normally spends six months of the year on board his Sadler 34 in the Mediterranean

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Selecting the right size anchor rode

• Thread starter Dinghydreams
• Start date Mar 21, 2016
• Tags anchor rode what size anchor rode what size chain anchor rode
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

Dinghydreams

Ahoy Folks, I'm new to the forum and hoping to rouse some good answers! I just bought a Bristol 24, approx. 6,000 lbs. I've decided on a rope/chain ground tackle system. No windlass. I plan to get somewhere between 25-30 ft chain, the rest rope, with a 22 lb Rocna anchor. I am leaning towards 3/8" 3-strand nylon, and 1/4" proof coil chain. I've read the charts, this is basically the most widely recommended size. But I wonder if those charts are talking about lighter weight 24 footers, when they recommend this. Also, is Proof Coil strong enough? This is my first venture into chain buying. At first glance BBB or G4 looks more expensive/stronger, but those are better for boats with windlasses. Will proof coil be just fine?? I plan on anchoring.... A LOT. Thanks!!!!!! Hope this yields some results.  

Stu Jackson

Nice boat. Anchor System Sizing Tables (Reply #6) & Why Swivels are a bad idea http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4990.msg30400.html#msg30400  

G4 being a stronger alloy, may well be lighter than others. BBB, etc... Look at all aspects of the chain. It last a long time, so don't go by price alone. Remember, a strong anchor system is your boats insurance.  

1/4" grade 30 has a working load of 1300 lbs, as does 1/4" BBB. Grade 40 1/4' doubles to 2600 lbs working load. Weight is close to the same. With 25 to 30' of chain I would go to 5/16" grade 30, grade 40 if budget is less of an issue. And 1/2" rode , 3 strand or braid.  

Nigel Caulders "Cruising Handbook" specs ABYC charts. Thus, for a 25-foot, 8-foot beam sailboat, calculated load in 6 Yeah, skip the swivels0 knots of wind is 1,960 pounds DWL. This would call for the 3/8 line, 1/4 HT/G40 chain, 5/16 shackles. Ht chain, it is rated at 2600 working load limit- per West. In all cases, you'd go up at least one size, so 5/16 1T(on) shackles should serve you well. 3/8 if they will fit the chain opening. Oh, yeah... skip the swivels.  

Ron20324 said: Nigel Caulders "Cruising Handbook" specs ABYC charts. Thus, for a 25-foot, 8-foot beam sailboat, calculated load in 6 Yeah, skip the swivels0 knots of wind is 1,960 pounds DWL. This would call for the 3/8 line, 1/4 HT/G40 chain, 5/16 shackles. Ht chain, it is rated at 2600 working load limit- per West. In all cases, you'd go up at least one size, so 5/16 1T(on) shackles should serve you well. 3/8 if they will fit the chain opening. Oh, yeah... skip the swivels. Click to expand

Yes, I would move up to 1/2" and I really like the 8-plait nylon rode material. The 1/2" is easier to grip, and the 8 plait doesn't tangle and kink like the 3 ply will. 1/4" G4 will be fine, especially if you are sweating it with your hands, shackle one size up (5/16")  

Charlie Jones s/v Tehani

On my 25 footer I carry 75 feet of 1/4 G4 chain, and 200 feet of 1/2 nylon. The problem with 3/8 is not necessarily the strength- it's the fact that it would be tough on your hands to handle. The slightly larger 1/2 is much kinder on hands. Agree on the one size up shackle, and I would NEVER put a swivel on the rode.  

Cheers everyone! I'm going with 1/2 inch line, and 5/16th chain. Thanks again, super helpful.  

[QUOTE= and I would NEVER put a swivel on the rode.[/QUOTE said: what is wrong with a swivel? I don't have one but you got me curious Click to expand

I don't know what a swivel is...I'm curious, too. Going to use this as a shackle http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|2259973|2260012|2260020&id=2245481 and splice the line to chain...no thimble.  

All good advice here. However, I would steer clear of BBB or proof coil chain in sea water, not so much because of strength but G4 will withstand sea water corrosion better than the others. A good quality 1/4" G4 should be suitable for your displacement, IMHO. Here is a link to an article that I wrote describing our anchoring system that has worked well over the years in PNW waters. A warp splice works well in place of shackles or swivels and is as strong as the rope and chain that you select. http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/mods.php?task=article&mid=45&aid=8270&mn=42 Warp splice: http://www.bluemoment.com/warpchainsplice.html I always drop all 50' of chain. Then I will let out rope in 30' segments depending on water depth. To mark each 30' segment I used a short piece of bright orange nylon line wrapped twice around one strand of rope. So, one piece for the first 30', two for the next, etc. The strand locks the line to the rope. Simple, low cost and effective.  

you'll safety wire that shackle, right? are you going to mark the rode with paint or something? when I think about anchor rode, I think about how long it would take a coral head to eat though one... not sure about what kind of hazards there are where you're going to anchor.  

Definitely will mouse the shackle. Probably going to mark the rode with those plastic anchor rode markers  

Kings Gambit

Dinghydreams said: I don't know what a swivel is...I'm curious, too. Going to use this as a shackle http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|2259973|2260012|2260020&id=2245481 and splice the line to chain...no thimble. Click to expand

Kings Gambit said: For quality you might also consider this self-locking allen head type from Wichard; 5/16" or 13/32". http://www.wichardamerica.com/wichard_en/shackles?p= Click to expand

Allen head pin- can not wire it closed. Referring to Caulder's book again, he says about SS shackles: "Although I might be tempted to use a SS shackle because it has a higher WLL for the same size galvanized, it would be a mistake. ... SS shackles are rated at up to 50 percent of their breaking strength, so the extra stength may be illusory and, in fact, the shackle may be weaker. In addition, SS may cause galvanic corrosion with the chain."  

If you want to go overboard you can buy titanium shackles.  

Wow. All this for a 24-foot boat. 1. Swivel? For what? I had one with the last anchor and pitched when I switched. Don't miss it. And by the way, it had a tiny little crack starting on the inside. Stainless will do that. 2. On what basis is G4 more corrosion resistant? The testing I have seen shows no difference. With a combination rode the ABYC table is out the window (it is based on all chain); I doubt he will ever see over 800 WL. http://www.practical-sailor.com/blog/Rethinking-Anchor-Snubbers-11937-1.html http://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/37_63/features/What-is-Ideal-Snubber-Size_11951-1.html  

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Anchoring & Mooring

With so much investment literally riding on your anchor, your boat's anchoring system is no place to cut corners. your choice of anchor depends on the size and type of your boat, and the weather and anchoring conditions you generally encounter..

Boats with heavy displacements or superstructures that present a great deal of wind resistance need heavier gear. The same is true of cruising yachts that brave a wide variety of conditions and may sometimes have to anchor in open waters.

Although not required by Federal Law, it is recommended you carry one anchor of sufficient size and strength to hold your boat for an extended period, like overnight--or in an emergency situation, such as if you run out of gas. When you are thinking or buying an anchor - BIGGER IS BETTER.

Also, there is safety in numbers. No anchor will work for you in every situation, so if you have space carry two anchors--preferably of different types.Many people choose to carry a small anchor, or "lunch hook", and a larger working or storm anchor. The lunch hook is for use in calm weather and when the crew is monitoring the anchor. Working and storm anchors are useful at times when the crew is asleep or ashore, and during heavy weather, when winds are 30 miles an hour and over.

The general name for all of the equipment you need to anchor your boat is "ground tackle". This includes an anchor, chain, line and connecting elements. The anchor line, including chain, is called the rode.

Playing Hooky

Just as boats come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes, so do anchors. Choosing an anchor is easy, choosing the right one for your boat can be very difficult. Your first task in choosing an anchor is to have an understanding of three things:

• Your Boat - Your boats' size, weight and design characteristics affect what kind of anchor you will need to use. For instance, a 30 foot 10,000 pound houseboat needs a larger anchor than a 30 foot 6000 pound speedboat.
• Where You're Going - Where you plan to anchor often dictates what type of anchor you should use. Is the bottom rock, or is it soft mud? If you are not familiar with the area, ask around or look at a local chart.
• Local Conditions - Anchoring in a calm protected cove can be quite different than anchoring offshore or on a large open bay. And don't forget the weather--high winds, tides and waves can all make anchoring difficult, if not impossible.

Anchors are rated by "holding power"--which is the ability of an anchor to hold a given weight. Keep in mind that a 10,000 pound boat may only require an anchor with a holding power of a few hundred pounds on a calm day, but may need 1,000 pounds of holding power or more on a stormy day.

Anchor Types

There are several types of anchors and you should choose a style based on the bottom characteristics in the areas you will anchor most often. Then, choose a size based on the size and weight of your boat.

Lightweight or "Danforth" Anchors

Lightweight type anchor with two long pivoting "flukes"; designed to reduce clogging with mud and grass; range from 2.5 pounds to nearly 200 pounds, and are generally made of cast galvanized metal, though some models are machined from a light-weight aluminum composite. When dropped, flukes dig the anchor into the bottom and the anchor buries itself and part of the anchor line.

Commonly used on small recreational boats, as they are relatively light weight for the amount of holding power they provide, especially in comparison to other anchors. Best in hard sand or mud, where flukes can easily dig into the bottom.

Not recommended for very soft or loose mud, which can ball up around the flukes; or on rocky bottoms where the flukes cannot penetrate. Also not recommended for grassy bottoms, which the flukes tend to slip off.

Kedge or Navy Anchors

A more traditional style anchor with arks, flukes and stock. Good in heavy grass, weeds, rocky bottoms or hard sand where one arm can penetrate a crevice. Not good in mud or loose sand, where flukes can't dig in.

Functions differently than previous anchors as it is not a burying anchor; one arm digs into bottom and one lies exposed. Generally only used by very large ships, as it relies on weight for most of the holding power; not really suitable for recreational use other than for a lunch hook.

Grapnels Anchors

Very inexpensive, but not much holding power. Some models are made of bent re-bar, others are made of galvanized metal and have folding flukes. Good for recovering items on the bottom, or for wreck reef anchoring. Commonly used on very small boats such as canoes or jon boats.

Plow or "CQR/DELTA" Anchors

The plow styles' good holding power over a wide variety of bottom types makes it a top choice of cruising boaters. Has either a fixed (Delta style) or a pivoting (CQR) shank.

When dropped in the water, a plow lands on its side, then when pulled, buries itself. Its shape allows it to reset fairly easily should the wind or tide shift the boat position.

Great in sand and on rocky bottoms, weeds and grass. Does not do well in soft bottoms. Generally made of galvanized metal, though they are available in stainless steel.

Claw or "BRUCE" Anchors

Unique shape of the claw allows a 360 degree turn without breaking out. Has similar performance to plow anchors,at a lower weight.

Sets just like a plow, but curved flukes make it easier for a claw to right itself no matter how it lands on the bottom, or how much the boat gets swung around.

Mushroom Anchors

Mushroom anchors get their name from, as you might imagine, their rounded, mushroom shape. Mushroom anchors are used extensively for moorings, and can weigh several thousand pounds for this use.

The shape works best in soft bottoms, where it can create a suction that can be difficult to break. Decent for very small boats to use as a lunch hook, but not practical for larger boats. Both Buoys and Beacons may have lights attached, and may have a sound making device such as a gong, bell or horn. Both Buoys and Beacons may be called "marks".

Line and Gear

Depending upon the size and type of your boat, and where you anchor--your choices for an anchor line are either an all-rope anchor rode, a combination of rope and chain, or all chain.

Nylon Line in Three-Strand Twist

Three-strand line can absorb shock and the constant tugging associated with anchoring much better than braided line or chain alone. Chain may also be used, especially in anchorages that are primarily rock or coral, which may cut a nylon line. A length of chain should be used between the anchor and a longer length of line. The chain will add weight to set your anchor without making it too heavy to lift manually, while serving to exert a horizontal pull on the anchor to set it.

Nylon Three-Strand line is the leading choice for use as an anchoring line. Lines generally come in a "soft" or "medium" lie. Soft lines are generally softer to the touch, and loosely woven. These aren't as good as medium or hard lines for anchoring, as they are more prone to unraveling and chafing. Tightly wrapped lines are the best choice for anchoring.

Lines that have been treated with a wax-like coating are available. These lines help the line resist water/salt absorption. To help keep your lines in good shape, clean them from time to time by soaking them in soapy water. Never use bleach, as it can break down the line.

Chain may be used instead of nylon line for anchoring. Chain has several benefits, including added weight, chafe and wear resistance, and high strength. It also lowers the angle of pull on the anchor, which helps it to set more firn\mly into the bottom.

Chain is generally found made of galvanized steel, though you can find stainless steel and vinyl coated chain, which is designed to be non-marring to your deck.

Chain comes in three general varieties: "Proof Coil" is the most common, and is adequate for most marine uses. "BBB" ("Triple B" or "3B") chain has thicker, shorter links than proof chain. BBB is slightly stronger than proof chain, and is generally used for windlasses. Finally, "Hi-Test" chain is made of hardened steel, and is stronger and lighter than proof coil. Hi-test chain is favored by those wishing to avoid carrying too much weight.

Combination anchor-rodes consist of both chain and nylon line. You may buy a combination rode, or you may make one yourself. Generally, it is recommended to have either one foot of chain for each foot of boat length, or to have one pound of chain for each pound of anchor length. Which ever method you choose, having more chain than necessary is never a bad idea.

As the saying goes, a chain is only as strong as its' weakest link...Make sure that your anchor and line are attached to each other with adequate gear. Some lines come with plastic thimbles or eyes--but metal, either marine-grade stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized steel, is best. Swivels and shackles should be inspected regularly for wear, and to ensure that the connections are tight and functional.

Scope: Length of the anchor line/ height of the deck cleat to the sea bed.

Before leaving the dock, you will need to determine how much anchor line, or "rode", you will need. It is recommended that you use a scope of 7:1, meaning that for every foot of water depth, you should use 7 feet of rode.

For example, to anchor in 10 feet of water, you would pay out 70 feet of line. Measure the scope as the ratio of the length of the anchor rode to the height of the bow above the bottom. If you're using a lightweight anchor on a small boat in good weather conditions, a shorter scope of 5:1 is sufficient and safe. A prudent boater always has extra line and chain on hand, just in case.

Minimum Working Rode Sizes

Suggested holding sizes assume fair holding ground, scope of at least 5:1 to 10:1, and moderate shelter from high seas.

Boats that operate generally in shallow waters, as on the East Coast of the United States, may get by with shorter rode lengths. As the wind picks up, deploying additional line will help maintain position, as will tossing out an extra anchor.

Setting Anchor

Anchoring can be accomplished quickly and easily by following a few simple steps.

• Check your chart for bottom characteristics and to determine that you are anchoring in a safe and allowable place. If there are rocks, shoals, reefs or other boats to consider, give them all as wide a berth as possible. Remember that other boats will often have different requirements for anchor rode length--larger or taller boats frequently need a great deal of rode. Also, keep in mind a possible swing of 360 degrees about the anchor with wind shifts or current changes.
• If your crew is not already wearing PFDs, have them put one on before going forward to set or retrieve an anchor or mooring.
• Secure the bitter end of the anchor line to a bow cleat. Make sure the line is ready to run free once tossed overboard.
• Head into the wind or current. Reduce speed and reverse the engine. When the boat starts to make a slight sternway through the water, lower - do not throw - the anchor.
• After you've let about a third of your line out, tug the anchor line to see how firmly it's set, and then continue to release the rode.
• Once you let out an appropriate amount of scope, make sure the line is properly tied off on the bow cleat.
• Even if anchoring only in designated anchoring areas, it is always prudent to have the appropriate signal such as an all-around white light on to notify other boats that you are anchored at night. During the day you must display a ball shape which is sized according to the size of your boat.

Staying Put

It's a good idea to take two immediate bearings. Select two items, one off each beam, that form a natural range and watch for any changes in their relationship. You can check these later to determine if you're boat is swinging as expected or if you're dragging anchor.

Picking Up a Mooring

One of the best ways to avoid the hassles of anchoring is to chose a cove or harbor with moorings available for your use. Mooring balls are identified by their white spherical or can shape, and having a blue horizontal band. It may have a number designation, a VHF contact # or name on it. You will typically have to pay a small fee to the harbor master to use a public mooring, but you can count on it being far cheaper than paying for dockage for the night.

Public moorings are professionally maintained and will use a large anchor or helix screw fixture to maintain position. The harbor master will let you know if the weight or length of your boat is too big for that particular mooring. Although moorings are typically more secure than anchors, moorings can and do periodically give way. For this reason, and for the obvious courtesy reasons, you should never pick up and use a mooring that does not belong to you.

Common Anchoring Mistakes

• Letting the anchor go with out securing the line to the boat.
• Letting the anchor go with your foot wrapped in the anchor line.
• Poor communication between the captain and person on the foredeck.
• Approach a mooring from downwind. This will give you better maneuverability as you go to secure your boat to the ball.
• Go slow, so as not to disturb those already moored.
• After putting on PFDs, send a crew member to the bow with a boat hook to grab the eye or the base of the mooring ball.
• Once the mooring ball is at the bow--slow, stop or gently reverse engines to halt forward motion. Use your crew to relay distance information if it is difficult for the skipper to see where the mooring ball is in relation to the boat.
• Loop the mooring line over one or both of your bow cleats. Pay attention to the possibility of chafing. You may want to use your own line to attach to the mooring ball if the one provided is dirty.
• Some moorings may have an antenna like device called 'whip.' This is simply an extension of the ball so you don't have to reach as far to haul in the mooring line.
• Once secure, let the boat drift back and be sure that you are clear of those who have moored or anchored around you. There is no need to 'back down' on a mooring ball.
• Leaving a mooring is easy--just motor or pull up gently to the ball and release the mooring line from your boat. You can then either drift back or maneuver forward to clear yourself of the ball and the associated ground tackle.

Finally, never ever anchor a small boat by the stern! Your engine, and the bulk of the boat's weight rest here. Stern anchoring is likely to result in swamping and flooding.

Boat Anchor Selection Guide: Choose the Perfect Type & Size

When you buy a used boat, odds are it will come with an anchor, and with a new boat you'll usually get to choose an anchor for it. What if that old anchor you have on your new-to-you boat doesn't hold so well, or needs replacing? In any of those scenarios, you'll need to pick out a new anchor for your boat. There are more types of anchors that you dreamed of, and they're all different in how they perform in different anchoring conditions. And your anchor will need to be sized for your boat.

The type of anchor you choose depends on the predominant bottom types where you plan to sail, and what fits on your boat. Once you know the type, you get the perfect type and size of anchor from the length and weight of your boat using the manufacturers' recommendations.

On this page:

How does an anchor work, loads and forces on an anchor, anchor construction materials, most common anchor styles, how do i choose an anchor, what's in your anchor locker, picking the right anchor ground tackle.

Instead of getting overwhelmed, if you do a little research upfront on what you might need you can narrow down your choices and get the best anchor for your boat and where you use it.

While it may seem obvious at first glance, there are many mistaken assumptions about just how your anchor holds your boat to the bottom. It's important to understand just what your anchor does when it's holding your boat, so you know why you may choose one anchor or another.

All anchors dig into the bottom. Some have aggressive, plow-like forms or scoops which burrow in quickly, others have various hooks, spikes or protrusions designed to catch and hook as soon as the anchor is pulled.

Angle of attack provides holding power

The pulling force on an anchor is along the shank, and for an anchor to offer maximum holding power, it's crucial that the bulk of the load from the boat's pull is applied in this direction. If the pull is from the side, the anchor may break out. If the pull is from above the anchor, it definitely will.

Part of the role of the chain in your rode is to keep the rode flat on the bottom to make sure the loads from the boat are horizontal and along the direction of the shank.

Scope & chain provide angle and drag

Your anchor rode and how much scope you let out is as important to your choice of anchor to how well you hold. Chain has its own resistance to being dragged and adds extra holding, and as noted above, it also keeps the forces on the anchor from pulling it out.

The longer the scope, the better the angle of pull on the anchor. With a length of chain, the extra weight adds more holding the bottom, and a rope/chain rode gives extra shock absorption in the catenary of the rode.

You can learn more about how to select and install the right anchor rode by reading our detailed article here.

Orientation of anchors

Most modern anchors have a definite top and bottom, and will not set lying on their backs. These anchors flip and orient their blades down if they land the wrong way or break out. Many anchor designs dig in quickly with the anchor lying on its side, and may have roll bars or weights to keep them in a suitable setting orientation.

Some anchors, like grapnel anchors or the Bulwagga, had a radial symmetry and no true up or down. These don't need to reorient or right themselves. They will catch the bottom no matter how they lie, though not all the blades and hooks will help hold the anchor.

Good anchors will reset unnoticably

All anchors can break out and may get rolled as a boat swings at anchor and wind strength increases. An anchor's ability to reset is important. You don't want to drag long before your anchor sets again. With a good anchor, you won't even be aware it has broken out and reset, as it will happen quickly without your boat seeming to drag at all.

An anchor doesn't care at all about what kind of boat is on the other end of the rode, what it cares about is how much drag force is on the rode. A heavy boat in a light breeze may pull as hard on an anchor as a lighter boat in more wind. It's the force that counts, and you size your anchor by how much force you can expect to land on that anchor and rode.

Boat weight partially determines drag force

Your boat's weight is one of the two sources of drag force on your anchor. Heavier boats will pull more than light boats in the same condition. Many anchor vendors give tables of boat weight ranges which match to the best anchor size.

In wind, boat length is more important

Picture two boats with the same weight - a low-slung classic yacht with little freeboard , but a heavy full keel, and a more modern design with higher freeboard, less ballast, and about ten more feet of length. In windless conditions, they'll pull about the same against the anchor.

But in twenty knots of breeze, the longer boat with more freeboard will have a lot more pull. Here, the boat's length overrides the weight. A doubling of wind speed quadruples the load on the anchor, so this effect becomes more pronounced the higher the wind.

Anchors are made from three primary materials - galvanized steel , stainless steel , and aluminum .

Galvanized steel anchors are cheap

Galvanized anchors are the most common, as they are the least expensive, offer excellent weight, and are very durable and rugged. They can rust over time as the galvanization wears off, but provide the best cost to holding of all anchor construction material. You can re-galvanize an anchor at considerably less cost than replacing the anchor, if the original protection wears off.

Stainless steel anchors are expensive

Stainless steel anchors have similar strength to galvanized steel anchors combined with corrosion resistance. They look beautiful on the bow, but they are quite expensive at 3-5 times the cost of a similar galvanized anchor, and you'll want to pair them with a more expensive stainless chain. While they won't rust, they can get scratched and lose their shiny finish if you use them often. And there is a risk of crevice corrosion if stainless steel sits underwater too long.

Aluminum anchors don't rely on weight

Aluminum anchors are lightweight and strong, but may not have the holding power of heavier anchors of a similar size, and aluminum is not as strong as steel. They are popular with racers, and also for secondary anchors, because they are lighter and easier to handle. Aluminum anchors rely on bottom penetration to set, not weight.

The dozens of anchors available break down into a few general classes. Trying to organize all the choices by function helps you narrow the field to what may work best for you.

Claw anchor

Claw anchors, like the Bruce, have claw style blades to dig in and hold well for most conditions. They may struggle to dig in with a hard mud or clay bottom, but will reset well on other bottoms.

Plow anchor

Plow anchors are generally fixed, like the Delta, or have a hinge like the CQR. The fixed plows do well in everything but rocks, while the hinged CQR doesn't hold quite as well but responds better to the movement of the rode since there is a swivel.

Plow with Roll Bars

Modern designs like the Rocna and Spade incorporate a plow form on the blades, coupled with a roll bar. These have fantastic holding power and set easily. They don't fit as well on some older boats, and are more expensive.

Fluke anchor

The fluke anchors are great in mud and sand, but don't do as well with bottoms they can't penetrate or grass. The Danforth (and its clones) are popular with smaller boats, and the lightweight aluminum Fortress is a favorite with weight conscious ravers.

Fisherman's anchor

The traditional crossbar and hooks anchor is good for rocks. Some break down for storage, which makes them a popular choice for a storm anchor.

Grapnel anchor

Grapnels are fine anchors for dinghies, kayaks, PWCs and other small, light craft but don't do well with higher loads and larger boats.

Mushroom anchor

Small mushroom anchors can hold a small craft like a dinghy or kayak. Many permanent moorings are large mushroom anchors, where they can dig deep into the bottom. But they are not suitable for big boat use.

Other alternatives

This list isn't exhaustive. There is constant innovation in anchor technology, from the Bulwagga to various box anchors, which don't even look much like anchors as we think of them. All have their strengths and weaknesses, so research carefully and try to find someone with real-world experiences with them.

Remember, there is no "right" or perfect anchor, so look at a lot of options to see what fits your boating style.

The basic decisions you have to make about your anchor are the style, size, and material of your anchor. While we can't get into every type of anchor on the market and how it works for every boat, we can give you an overview of the decisions you must make.

What fits on your boat?

If you're adding a new anchor to an existing boat, you may have some natural limitations on what anchors you may choose.

With a bow roller sized for a plow or a nice Danforth bracket installed already, maybe those features limit your choices. You may switch between a CQR and a Delta with that anchor roller, but there's a good chance you can't fit a Rocna's roll bar up there without bending something. You could probably switch a Fortress out for a Danforth in that bracket, but you can not hang a plow from it.

Most anchor manufacturers give dimensional drawings of their products on their websites, so measure and even mock up something to see if it will go. On my boat, I shoved a Manson Supreme where a CQR went, but not without permanently bending a retaining pin. And I mocked the whole thing up in cardboard ahead of time to be sure.

Where will you anchor?

The range of where boat affects what to have in your bow locker. If you're a Chesapeake Bay sailor and you don't leave the bay, something that holds well in mud is a must and may be all you need. But a world cruiser needs something more effective across a range of bottom types.

Give careful thought to the places you’ll want to spend the night on your boat, especially the bottom types you'll find. In the end, you'll likely have more than one anchor, and you want to cover most of the holding types you'll encounter.

Choose your materials based on budget and style

This is a matter of budget and style, mostly. As a cruiser who spends almost every night at anchor, I can't see the sense of spending a fortune on a pretty anchor that spends most of its life hidden. But for some, adding that high gloss show to the bow of a Bristol condition yacht everyone can see most of the time, the aesthetic choice may make more sense.

When I raced, I had a Fortress because it met the requirements to have an anchor, but I ended up spending a couple of nights on it. It was easy to move around, but for vacations I still dragged the 35 lb. CQR out of the shed and put it in the bow locker.

Size your anchor based on boat length and weight

Sizing your anchor is most people's biggest worry. Remember, it's better to have too much anchor instead of not enough. You want to sleep soundly and leave your boat without worrying. If you're hauling your anchor up without a windlass, the extra pounds matter a lot more, but it's better to have extra.

It's not as hard as you think to size your anchor, because every single manufacturer publishes a guide to how to select the right product for your boat. Most of them have tables for boat length and boat weight, and we talked up above about how a boat's weight and windage affect anchor loads.

To size your anchor, follow these steps.

• Search the "by length" table for the length of your boat, and note the recommended size.
• Search for the weight of your boat, and note the recommended size.
• The correct anchor size for your boat is the larger of those two recommendations.

If they give a single number in the table, choose the next number above yours. If they use ranges and your boat is on the edge of a weight or length range, there's no harm in moving to the next size band. Don't move down bands; you don't want to undersize.

For an example, look at this sizing table for Spade Anchors. We've going to pick an anchor for a boat which is 53' long and weighs about 54,000 lbs.

Source: Anchor sizing chart on Spade Anchor USA

You'll see a boat length of 53' puts us at 59ft. and a 55 pound galvanized anchor. But by vessel weight, for 54,000 lbs., the recommended weight is 99 pounds.

So the larger of the two is 99 lbs., so that is the proper weight for this boat.

Most boats should have more than one anchor, so you will go through this process several times. You may need multiple anchors for the different bottom conditions you may come across. If you foul an anchor or lose one, a spare anchor and rode can literally be a lifesaver.

Other reasons for multiple anchors include a lighter anchor for a "lunch hook," though with an electric windlass this isn't much of a concern on bigger boats. You may want a smaller stern anchor in case you need to anchor where you don't want to swing, or it's important to keep your bow facing a direction other than into the wind. And finally, if you plan to cruise far from your home port, you may want a storm anchor.

Any of the anchor types we've discussed will fill many of the above roles, and you can use these tools to evaluate your boat and your plans to make the best choice for each job.

The next step is to select the right ground tackle. Ground tackle consists of everything that connects the anchor to your boat and is used to control the angle of attack, scope, and drag by adding or removing weight to the anchor.

I've written a detailed guide to help you to understand ground tackle in depth , which will help you select the perfect parts yourself.

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107 15th Ave SE

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The Yacht Rigger LLC is a mobile sailboat rigging, marine hardware service and parts source based out of St Petersburg, Florida. We are dedicated to assisting you, the sailor, in all aspects regarding your sailboat’s rigging. We offer a mobile sailboat rigging service as well as a free online consultation service regarding online store purchases. Our online store functions as a local and international yacht rigging parts supplier. We specialize in all types of yacht rigging, whether your boat is for cruising or racing, our team provides a comprehensive unbiased service tailored around you and your vessel. Please check out our Services and About page for more info regarding what we do. …

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The go-to riggers in West Florida, hands down. The entire team is not only knowledgeable, but potentially the highest integrity marine outfit you'll ever work with. They've expertly rigged my 46' cruising cat and I've seen firsthand their work on other sailboats. Truly the best around.

The Yacht Rigger is a one-stop business for all your marine rigging needs and more. We have had Stephen and his crew do a lot of work on our boat (a 42' sailing catamaran) including new standing rigging, running rigging, construction of a solar arch and tender lift system, custom made solar panels, installation of solar controllers, custom made dive tank holders, increased the length of our rode and replaced the bridle. We even needed some aluminum welding done and Stephen was more than happy to do it for us. Stephen is a man of integrity and a complete professional who loves his work and works tirelessly to see the project completed and ensure the customer is happy. He is now our go-to guy for all of our boat work. I cannot recommend The Yacht Rigger highly enough and we are thrilled with all the improvements he has done to our boat.

Construction of the solar arch.

Installing the solar arch.

As you can see in Google reviews these guys have amazing reviews but as my other reviews show, I review based on the details of my own experience, not others. I wanted them to replace the rigging but also do additional and related work that that Yacht Riggers ultimately broke up into three different projects: replace all standing rigging, replace all chain plates, and install a bow roller for my 55 lb mantus anchor on my 30 ft Pearson. Before going into the details of the execution it should be noted that I value communication before, during, and after the project above all else. What I mean by this is that I will let so many mistakes and lapse in project planning and foresight slide in the presence of good and consistent communication, not just with me, but with each other as well. I would say poor Internal communication is the primary motivation behind the three stars. Initial contact/planning: I need to mention that I initially contacted Yacht Riggers in January 2021 and that all work has been verified complete June 16th 2021, it should be noted that actual work commenced March 1st. So please understand this could have been due to a backlog. If you consider the amount of time to complete from initial contact it took 6 months. If you consider the amount of time to complete from the start of work it took 2.5 months. This is not as bad as a kitchen remodel of mine that took a year and a half (see 5280 google review) :-) Communication/follow up: From a communication standpoint here is what I experienced. They only reply to emails once a day, you must leave a message if you call and they will respond with the same cadence as emails, once a day. Please note, I found this to be typical, not every time, as there were certainly exceptions. Here's the three star part of this review; towards the beginning of the project to about the middle, the participants in the project had a lot of internal communication problems. This tapered off significantly towards the end as I think they were finding too many things being missed that ultimately dug into their profits, so it was remedied. I told them that I wanted a 55 lb mantus (purposefully oversized for the boat as I wanted more weight on the ocean floor when anchoring). I communicated this through phone and email at least four times throughout the process and they forgot that detail at least three times. This tells me that if there was a project plan that the size of the anchor was not taken into consideration, noted, or integrated as they ran into problems with the size when they ordered the new anchor roller. They had physically been on/in the boat more than enough times to make a qualified assessment. They even disconnected the bow pulpit for the dry fit in anticipation. The reasons they gave for why the anchor wouldn't work was based on a visual assessment after they had ordered hardware, performed welding work, and put in man hours. While I was credited labor I was not credited all of it, again, for something that could have been assessed by qualified personnel with many years of experience behind them. The problem was it wasn't communicated that the anchor was 55 lbs. they even tried to tell me they didn't know and I countered they did know and it was mentioned (and acknowledged) in several emails. They had not shared the information internally, this is a recurring theme with them on this project. For the rigging work they gave me an estimate of 7000 and the final invoice was 4378. I mean, that's pretty off. People might say, "yeah but it's in your favor". Ok, but it's an in accurate estimate by any standard. They did better with the chainplate and bow work. I asked them not to go over 4000 and they hit 200 over before taxes...it's fine. My total for the rigging, chainplates, and anchor roller install was 8935. Because of the poor planning on the bow work they gave me the mantus anchor for half price. Works for me. The poor internal communication is my only real beef. The work was good, some had to be redone but nothing that was a big deal. A windex bolt came loose, there was a chain plate leak, lack of proper planning caused loss of time and labor hours, and at one point the fuller drum wasn't secured in high winds and scratched and scuffed my deck. I like Yacht Rigger's enthusiasm but wish there was more of a project management mentality with their execution. By all accounts, they are the best in the area. I only hope my review serves to help people anticipate communication problems that could arise with this team.

I received a call from the company and although less than pleasant, and obvious they had read my review, they agreed to buy back a part bought because the first electrician they sent misdiagnosed the problem.

Sep 18, 2021

Hi James. Thankfully there are always two sides to a story. I'm glad I'm able to give our version. This might seem long winded but I feel it's necessary to be so that we can explain what happened here clearly - although I have told you this over the phone already. First off, yes, we did have a rather unpleasant conversation a few days ago, mostly I would say, due to you feeling the need to constantly curse at me, and while doing so accuse our team of committing fraud on the job. Back to the job in question. When you initially called in with wind instrument problems we sent out a team to replace the masthead anemometer (transducer) which is the most common cause of failure in these systems. This did not solve the issue, so we sent out an electrician to test the rest of the system. The electrician (whom you are incorrectly accusing of incompetence), followed Raymarine tech support guidelines in troubleshooting the unit, and based on their live feedback, was under the impression your head unit had a bad ground. Once you supplied the new head unit it became apparent this was not the case - electrical fault finding in electronics is tricky at best. We did not charge you for a single minute of the first electricians time (two call-outs) as we realized the diagnosis was incorrect and it would be unfair to do so. The second electrician used a different technique, and established an issue with the internal mast wiring. So we returned and replaced the mast wiring. Once this was done, we plugged in your old transducer (which I now realize you are accusing us of switching out with another, bad unit because we didn't label the unit to your liking) and it still didn't work. We double checked the mast base connections, and it still didn't work - so we plugged in the new transducer, and it worked. So both the wiring and the transducer had faults. This is where we dive into the realm of perception vs reality. During our phone conversation you accused our guys of deliberately disconnecting the mast base wiring during the test of the old transducer, and then sneakily reconnecting the wiring when we plugged in our transducer. First off, this is simply offensive. Secondly, this would be a very foolish fraud model as we only make a few dollars on a transducer like that due to the incredibly low margins on electronics. In other words, besides it being immoral behavior, there's no incentive to do so. You continue to maintain that the first electrician was "incompetent" and cost you $220 due to you buying the head unit on eBay. I would have thought you would just place that item on eBay and re-sell it. When I brought this up you lamented that doing so was A LOT of work. Despite this not really being the case, when you expressed not wanting to do this I told you we would do it for you and just write you a check for the $220. This was done on Friday. We have still not received payment for the invoice sent to you for the work performed as of that Friday afternoon. I hope it arrives soon. At the end of the job, yes, it was higher than initially estimated, simply due to the fact that additional parts were bad and some additional labor required to replace them. When I went through the invoice with you line by line to establish which parts of it specifically you took issue with, all you would say was that we were incompetent fraudsters and wouldn't address any items specifically. I'm really not sure what else we could have doing here. Regards Stephen

I have used them before and they did a good job, but this last time was just awful. I had an electrical problem with my wind and direction gushed. They sent an electrician who did not have the correct parts and misdiagnosed my problem as the control head needed replacement. Since I have an older boat I had to find one used on eBay which I did for $220. That wasn't the problem so he contacted another guy who did have the right equipment and knowledge who found the real problem. The Yacht Rigger refused to honor the cost of replacement part I did not need and the eventual bill was about twice the estimate.

I needed a bigger anchor after dragging one night. I called the YR and they spent lots of time helping me decide on a Mantus M2. They delivered the anchor to my boat, helped my son get the crate lifted onto the foredeck, and provided great tech support about greasing the castle nut. I was concerned that I assembled the anchor wrong and they came out and took the anchor apart and reassembled the anchor, free of charge. Great company, great pricing, great customer service.

Sep 27, 2021

Thanks guys! Great working with you!

I have known and worked with these guys for many years. It is very difficult to be good at everything but I believe that these guys do a very good job with everything Boat related! Their knowledge and talent is refreshing in an industry that doesn't always have the best reputation. Completing difficult jobs in a very difficult time right now with Covid challenges, it's nice to have a company that you can count on like the Yacht Rigger

Hey Colin, Thanks very much for the review. Always good doing business with you guys.

I bought a new to me sailboat in oct 2020 and was told by my surveyor that it needed a new rig (all new standing rigging). This is where the yacht riggers come in, even though I was out of town they came to my boat and did an inspection. I was called by Stephen at the yacht riggers and told that my surveyor I was correct and that I didn need a new rig. This gave me the ability to use that during my negotiations for the price of the sailboat. I purchased at the end of oct, and had the sailboat to st Petersburg and getting the rig replaced by jan. I would say they were about a month out for repairs like this. I showed up the day of for the mast removal onetime and so was their crane operator (this is outsourced) they share space with a working yard. They removed the mast and allowed me to be apart of the process as much and or as little as I wanted. I participated a lot in and throughout the process. It took about a month before my mast was refurbished and all new standing rigging in place and a time scheduled for me to have it re-stepped. They also scheduled me with another person who was having theirs taken down to reduce the cost of the crane between the other boat and mine. This was prob a 200-300 savings for myself and the other boat. The job was finished fast and with great communication. I even had bought a new lamp for the mast but they had replaced it already and instead of charging me for the lamp I just gave them mine which I had ordered because I got it at a significant discount and they called it square no charge for the install etc etc. I also continued to use the yacht rigger during my next 2months in st Pete for a few more projects. I ordered from them a new Atlantic tower in a box. No fault to them the company had sent the next size up tower which at first was a pain for myself as I was installing it myself and was getting frustrated with the process because I could not figure out why it was still to large after following all instructions. I called and spoke with the yacht riggers about this and they figured out that it was in fact the wrong size for my vessel but would work as long as I did a few more things which would mean I actually have a beefier tower then I needed or paid for which isn't a bad thing. But without question one of the owners came over to my boat that day and helped me fix the problem giving me about 3 hours of their time which was prob about 8-10 hours of mine had I not had Brian helping me out. This lead to me getting my tower up the same day I started the project and now having a beefier setup for my new solar panels I was installing too. Brian who's amazing at welding also was able to help me with my heat exchanger. He was able to reconfigure the mixing elbow end of my heat exchanger which had blown a hole and was causing my engine to over heat and fixed in about a week for a few hundred dollars making the heat exchanger look and work like new. This compared to the 2300 dollars it would have cost for a new heat exchanger for my yammer was amazing. These guys seem to do it all and do it with a smile! This was by far a great experience with 99% of the stuff I needed being done on time and for under budget. I would go back to them in a heart beat!

in my 70 years in the industry they are literally the best people to work with in the industry!

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