yachtmaster 35mm vs 40mm

Rolex Yacht-Master Size Guide

The Rolex Yacht-Master , a hallmark of craftsmanship and luxury, stands as a testament to the brand’s commitment to impeccable design and relentless innovation. Emerging from Rolex’s illustrious line of sport watches, the Yacht-Master, although often overshadowed by its counterparts like the Submariner or Daytona, brings with it a unique appeal. This appeal doesn’t just stem from its sleek aesthetics or its maritime heritage, but also from its remarkable range of sizes tailored to suit wrists of all dimensions.

Since its debut in 1992, the Yacht-Master series has ventured through an intriguing journey, consistently expanding and refining its size offerings. New variants have been presented to the world, while others have gracefully retired, making way for the new. This continual evolution sparks the question for both seasoned collectors and budding enthusiasts alike: What sizes are currently available in the iconic Yacht-Master lineup, and how did they come to be? <> <>

Rolex Yacht-Master Sizes: A History

The Yacht-Master’s illustrious journey began in 1992, when Rolex introduced it to the world with a robust 40mm size (ref 16628). This initial offering was a statement of intent from Rolex, underscoring their dedication to creating a nautical-themed watch that combined style with functionality. This piece swiftly became a sought-after accessory for marine enthusiasts and Rolex aficionados alike.

Two short years later, in 1994, Rolex diversified its offering, acknowledging the demand for variety. They introduced the more petite 29mm and the medium-sized 35mm variants, catering to those with slender wrists or individuals seeking a more subdued size. These additions highlighted Rolex’s commitment to versatility and recognizing the diverse preferences of its global clientele.

The collection underwent a notable evolution in 2015. This year was marked by the unveiling of the 37mm Yacht-Master, a harmonious balance between the original 40mm and the smaller 29mm. This introduction was special not only for its new size but also because it was crafted in the luxurious Everose Gold, paired with the contemporary Oysterflex bracelet. This innovation, however, came with a bittersweet note: the 29mm and 35mm sizes, once celebrated, were discontinued, making way for the new.

2019 ushered in another size variant: the substantial 42mm model. This piece was designed to cater to those who desired a more dominant presence on the wrist. Not resting on their laurels, in 2022, Rolex adorned this 42mm variant in radiant Yellow Gold, showcasing their penchant for marrying opulence with innovation. And as if to further emphasize their dedication to pushing boundaries, 2023 marked the introduction of the 42mm Yacht-Master in a robust and sleek Titanium build, underscoring Rolex’s drive to incorporate contemporary materials without compromising the line’s timeless elegance.

<> Current Rolex Yacht-Master Size Options

Rolex’s commitment to innovation and precision is evident in its Yacht-Master collection, offering a diverse range of sizes to cater to a wide spectrum of enthusiasts. The distinct sizes, each with its unique configurations, provide watch aficionados with choices that reflect individual style, wrist dimensions, and personal preferences. In the contemporary lineup, we have three prominent sizes: the graceful 37mm, the classic 40mm, and the commanding 42mm. <>

The 37mm Yacht-Master strikes an exquisite balance, making it an excellent choice for those seeking a moderately sized timepiece. It combines the versatility of the larger models with the subtlety of the smaller variants. Its available options are:

Solid Everose Gold with Oysterflex : A blend of Rolex’s signature Everose gold paired with the revolutionary Oysterflex bracelet, this variant exudes luxury while offering comfort.

Steel and Everose: This combination brings together the durability of steel with the warmth of Everose gold, creating a timepiece that’s both functional and visually appealing.

Steel and Platinum : A marriage of rugged steel and the elegance of platinum offers a timepiece that is simultaneously understated and opulent. <>

A direct descendant of the original Yacht-Master, the 40mm retains its predecessor’s essence while embracing modern touches. The available configurations are:

Solid Everose Gold with Oysterflex : Melding the richness of Everose gold with the athletic Oysterflex bracelet, this variant is a testament to luxury and innovation.

Steel and Everose : A harmonious juxtaposition of strength and elegance, this blend serves as a reminder of Rolex’s dedication to craftsmanship.

Steel and Platinum : For those who desire a blend of resilience and luxury, this configuration marries the robustness of steel with the shimmer of platinum. <>

The 42mm Yacht-Master, the newest and largest size in the collection, is designed for those who desire a commanding presence on the wrist. The available models for this size are:

White Gold: A manifestation of pure luxury, the white gold variant radiates understated elegance, making a statement without being ostentatious.

Yellow Gold with Oysterflex Strap : This variant, introduced in 2022, is a nod to Rolex’s heritage, with yellow gold representing the brand’s timeless allure, paired innovatively with the Oysterflex strap.

RLX Titanium with Titanium Bracelet : Introduced in 2023, this model showcases Rolex’s commitment to pioneering new materials. The titanium build not only offers durability but also a modern aesthetic, complemented by a matching titanium bracelet.

<> Discontinued Rolex Yacht-Master Size Options

Over the years, Rolex’s Yacht-Master collection has witnessed the introduction and subsequent retirement of certain sizes, reflecting the brand’s evolution and response to market dynamics. While these sizes might have been phased out of production, they remain significant in Rolex’s storied history and continue to hold a special place in the hearts of collectors. Two such notable sizes are the delicate 29mm and the versatile 35mm.

The 29mm Yacht-Master, designed for slender wrists, offered a blend of Rolex’s craftsmanship in a more compact form. The available configurations for this size were:

Solid Gold : A testament to pure luxury, this variant exuded opulence and was a favorite among those who appreciated the classic Rolex gold touch.

Two-Tone Steel Gold : A harmonious fusion of durability and luxury, this model combined the strength of steel with the warmth of gold.

Steel and Platinum : Merging the robust nature of steel with the elegance of platinum, this configuration offered a refined yet resilient timepiece.

Additionally, this size was available with slate, champagne, blue, and mother-of-pearl (MOP) serti dials, enhancing its appeal. <>

Sitting between the original 40mm and the petite 29mm, the 35mm Yacht-Master catered to those seeking a balanced size. Its available models included:

Solid Gold : Representing Rolex’s longstanding tradition of luxury, this variant showcased the brand’s expertise in crafting exquisite gold timepieces.

Two-Tone Steel Gold : A blend of functionality and opulence, this combination catered to those who wanted the best of both worlds.

Steel and Platinum : For those who preferred a touch of luxury with everyday durability, this pairing offered the perfect balance.

Much like the 29mm, the 35mm also featured the option of slate, champagne, blue, and MOP serti dials, making it a sought-after piece among collectors.

Rolex Yacht-Master Size Guide – Final Thoughts

The Rolex Yacht-Master series embodies a fusion of the brand’s time-honored craftsmanship, innovation, and luxury. Its diverse range of sizes, both current and discontinued, is a testament to Rolex’s dedication to meeting the evolving tastes of watch enthusiasts globally. While the newer sizes and configurations reflect the brand’s forward-thinking approach and embrace of contemporary materials, the spirit and essence of the Yacht-Master remain rooted in its rich maritime heritage and unwavering commitment to excellence.

For individuals keen on delving deeper into the world of Rolex, be it the Yacht-Master collection or any other Rolex timepiece, SwissWatchExpo stands out as a beacon. With its vast collection, profound expertise, and dedication to authenticity, it provides both seasoned collectors and new enthusiasts a trusted platform to explore, learn, and invest in timepieces that aren’t just instruments of time, but also heirlooms of history and artistry.

Explore our selection of Rolex Yacht-Master models, along with thousands of authentic, pre-owned watches from the world’s best brands, at SwissWatchExpo.com . <>

A buying guide to most popular Rolex Yacht-Master Models

Guide To Popular Rolex Yacht-Master Models

Rolex debuted the Yacht-Master watch in 1992 as a luxury sports watch crafted in precious gold yet durable enough for an active life at sea. The nautical-inspired Rolex watch featured a rotating timing bezel, a water-resistance rating of 100 meters, and a time and date dial. The Yacht-Master shared many design traits with the famed Submariner watch—such as a similar dial layout, case silhouette, and bracelet style—but it was a touch more luxurious thanks to its own set of design details. Over the course of its history, the Rolex Yacht-Master collection has expanded into a varied lineup with watches offered in several sizes, materials, and colors. Here’s a guide to some of the most popular Rolex Yacht-Master watches, ranging from discontinued models to current-production ones.

Where it all began:

The very first Yacht-Master model that Rolex released was a full yellow gold version. It sported a 40mm yellow gold case, a yellow gold rotating bezel with raised numerals, and a yellow gold three-link Oyster bracelet. Two years later in 1994, Rolex followed it up with two other yellow gold models—a ladies’ 29mm version and a midsize 35mm version. While Rolex no longer produces full yellow gold Yacht-Master models, they remain popular in the secondary market.

In 2015, Rolex introduced the very first Everose gold (the brand’s own rose gold pink alloy) Yacht-Master. However, rather than a full gold model, the Everose gold Yacht-Master models (available in 40mm and 37mm) included black ceramic bezels with raised numerals and a brand new black rubber-clad metal band called the Oysterflex bracelet. Dial options include sleek black and lavish diamond-paved. It’s also worth mentioning that there are some rare Everose gold Yacht-Master 40 models furnished with rotating bezels set with multi-colored precious gems (diamond, sapphire, and tsavorite). 

Here is a flamboyant version of it of the Everose gold Yacht-Master 40:

Finally, in 2019, Rolex released the first white gold Yacht-Master watch. Not only is this the only white gold Yacht-Master model ever made, but with its 42mm case, it is also the largest. 

Similar to the Everose gold model, the white gold Yacht-Master is fitted with a black ceramic bezel and black Oysterflex bracelet, along with a black dial. 

Prices (current collection):

• Everose Gold Yacht-Master 37 ref. 268655: $23,250 - 41,000
• Everose Gold Yacht-Master 40 ref. 126655: $27,300 – 47,150
• White Gold Yacht-Master 40 ref. 226659: $28,900

Rolesium Rolex Yacht-Master Models

In 1999, Rolex presented a new metal combination the brand called Rolesium, which brings together stainless steel and platinum on one watch. Like the yellow gold models, the Rolesium Yacht-Master models were offered in 40mm, 35mm, and 29mm versions. 

Regardless of the size, all the watches include stainless steel cases, stainless steel Oyster bracelets, and platinum rotating bezels with raised numerals. Particular popular versions of the Rolesium Yacht-Master watches are those with sandblasted platinum dials—although discontinued, these platinum dial Yacht-Masters are still widely available in the pre-owned market. 

Currently, Rolex still makes steel and platinum Yacht-Master watches. However, size options have been scaled down to 40mm and 37mm since Rolex stopped making 29mm or 35mm versions of the Yacht-Master around 2015. The Rolesium Yacht-Master 40 offers the choice between a rhodium gray or a blue dial while the Rolesium Yacht-Master 37 only comes with a rhodium gray dial. 

Prices (current collection): 

• Rolesium Yacht-Master 37 ref. 268622: $11,250
• Rolesium Yacht-Master 40 ref. 126622: $12,000

Rolesor Rolex Yacht-Master Models

Rolesor is the term Rolex gives to its models that mix gold and steel details—better known as two-tone watches. The first two-tone Yacht-Master watches, which featured steel cases topped with yellow gold bezels and steel Oyster bracelets with yellow gold center links, were launched in the mid-1990s. However, Rolesor Yacht-Master watches were first only offered in midsize (35mm) and ladies (29mm) sizes. The men’s 40mm two-tone yellow gold and stainless steel Yacht-Master joined the lineup in the early 2000s. Rolex stopped making yellow gold and steel Yacht-Master models a few years back but the brand has replaced them with another Rolesor option—two-tone Everose gold and steel ones. The current-production two-tone Yacht-Master models include stainless steel cases topped with Everose gold bezels and stainless steel Oyster bracelets with Everose gold center links. The Everose Rolesor models are available with 40mm or 37mm cases and both sizes offer the option between a black or brown dial. 

• Everose Rolesor Yacht-Master 37 ref. 268621: $13,150 
• Everose Rolesor Yacht-Master 40 ref. 126621: $14,500

In less than three decades, the Yacht-Master has grown to become Rolex’s most diverse sports watch collection, offering a vast assortment of sizes and styles for both men and women. From the discontinued models to the current-production ones, the Yacht-Master’s distinct combination of luxury and robustness has paved the way for its enduring popularity.

Find out more:

To find out more about which Rolex hold their value you can read more of our guides where we cover all Rolex Nicknames or our classic guide to the Day Date models and our comparision with their sister brand: Rolex vs Tudor .

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Overview of the Rolex Yacht-Master and Yacht-Master II

The Rolex Yacht-Master range encapsulates luxury and precision in a line of nautically inspired timepieces. Introduced in 1992, this Rolex watch borrows heavily from the Submariner series. The original Yacht-Master- the ref. 16628 with a 40mm Yellow Gold case, Cyclops lens over the date, triple lock crown, and Oyster bracelet- was modeled after the first ever Submariner- ref. 16610- which has a 40mm stainless steel case.

They both used the Caliber 3135 movement!

The tool watch gained traction with time, coming in various case, material, and bracelet options, as we shall see shortly. It’s no wonder it’s among Rolex’s most varied pieces in the Professional series.

Meanwhile, Rolex introduced the Yacht-Master II more than a decade later in 2007. It’s a watch tailored to the needs of professional sailors with its innovative regatta chronograph. 

Housed in a more robust 44mm Oyster case, it leveraged Rolex’s expertise in precision and functionality, offering a programmable countdown with mechanical memory for yacht racing. Distinguishing itself from its predecessor, it brought a new level of technical sophistication to the yachting world.

Design Characteristics

The Yacht-Master line portrays the typical design layout of Rolex sports watches, with an Oyster case (that’s water-resistant to 100m), a Twin-lock winding crown on the side of the case for setting the time and date and winding the movement manually, lume-filled Mercedes-style hands and hour markers, and a date function at three o’clock that’s amplified by a Cyclops magnifier lens on the crystal.

On the other hand, the Yacht-Master II takes on a more daring design, featuring a larger Oyster case (water-resistant to 100m) with a Triplock winding crown and chronograph pushers for operating the regatta chronograph, a busier dial with a programmable countdown feature (1 to 10 minutes), and a special Ring Command bezel that’s also present in Rolex’s Sky-Dweller collection .

Interestingly, the Yacht-Master II and Sky-Dweller are some of Rolex’s most complicated watches for now.

The Yacht-Master comes in various case options, namely 29mm (discontinued), 35mm (discontinued), 37mm (Rolex Yacht-Master ref. 268621), 40mm (Rolex Yacht-Master ref. 126622), and 42mm (Rolex Yacht-Master Oysterflex ref. 226659).

In terms of materials, Rolex has utilized several precious metals in the collection:

• Yellow Gold
• Stainless steel and Yellow Gold (Yellow Rolesor)
• Stainless steel with a Platinum bezel (Rolesium)
• Everose Gold (a patented proprietary Rose Gold alloy)
• Stainless steel and Everose Gold (Everose Rolesor)

In contrast, the Yacht-Master II is only available in a 44mm case size. It’s available in fewer material alternatives:

• Stainless steel with a blue ceramic Cerachrom bezel
• Stainless steel and Everose Gold with a blue ceramic Cerachrom bezel
• White Gold with a Platinum bezel (discontinued)
• Yellow gold with a blue Cerachrom bezel

Bezels 

The two watches have a bidirectional rotatable bezel that’s integral for tracking sailing time intervals. The difference comes in their designs.

The Yacht-Master has a bezel crafted from gold or platinum. This rotating bezel has raised numerals and 60-minute graduations. Plus, it operates independently from the watch’s inner mechanism.

The Yacht-Master offers a more noticeable Ring Command bezel with the ‘YACHT-MASTER II’ inscription and molded 1-10 numerals in varying colors depending on the materials used. The Yacht-Master II’s bezel is connected to the movement, and its wearers use it to operate the regatta chronograph function.

The watches’ dials are well-suited for their respective purposes. 

The Yacht-Master has a simpler dial design, with Mercedes-style hands and round/triangle/rectangle or gem-set hour markers. Rolex has used several luminous materials on these excellent luxury watches over the years:

• SuperLumiNova
• Chromalight

The Yacht-Master II has a more detailed and functional dial with slimmer hands decorated with Chromalight lume, a red arrow-tipped hand, a central chronograph hand, square-shaped hour markers, a countdown function with mechanical memory that gracefully curves from 8 to 4 o’clock, and a running seconds subdial at 6 o’clock.

The red arrow-tipped hand shows how much time is left in the countdown. Meanwhile, the central chronograph hand can fly back or fly forward to its starting position while in motion, and the countdown function allows skippers to sync it on the fly to match the official race countdown (it’s the first in the world, BTW).

Note: The Yacht-Master II had square hour markers and straight baton-shaped hands from 2007 to 2017. 

2017 welcomed several changes: an inverted triangle at 12 o’clock, a rectangular hour marker at six o’clock, and a Mercedes-style hour hand to offer more lume and enable easier differentiation from the minute hand.

Bracelets and Clasps

Rolex equips the Yacht-Master with Oyster and Oysterflex bracelets. The three-piece Oyster offers classic luxury and sturdy comfort and is finished with a high polish or brushed look. It also has a secure Folding Oysterlock safety clasp with Rolex Glidelock extension system that ensures the watch remains fastened around the wrist.

As for the Oysterflex bracelet , it’s a black strap crafted from a flexible Titanium and nickel alloy metal blade at its core and is clad in a high-density elastomer. It also boasts a tiered design that raises the timepiece away from the wrist and a Folding Oysterlock safety clasp with Rolex Glidelock extension system.

The YachtMaster II also features an Oyster bracelet, typically equipped with the Rolex Glidelock system, allowing fine adjustments and reflecting its more technical and sporty heritage.

Caliber Comparison

The Rolex Yacht-Master lineup features various movements, with the Yacht-Master 37mm housing a self-winding Caliber 2236 movement, the same movement used in Datejust 36 and Datejust 41 timepieces . It has 31 jewels, a 55-hour power reserve, and a 28,800vph frequency. 

Meanwhile, the 40mm and 42mm watches utilize the Caliber 3235, a well-respected automatic movement recognized for its reliability. This 31-jewel movement operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour (vph) and offers a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. 

In contrast, the Yacht-Master II is equipped with the self-winding Caliber 4161, a chronograph movement specifically developed for this model’s unique regatta countdown function. It has 48 jewels, a 72-hour power reserve, and a 28,800vph frequency.

Technical Details at a Glance

The following table highlights the specifications of both watches discussed above and more:

When comparing the Rolex Yacht-Master and the Yacht-Master II, consumers frequently have questions regarding their differences, pricing, availability, and rarity. The following subsections aim to address these common inquiries.

A Week On The Wrist The Rolex Yachtmaster 40mm With Oysterflex Bracelet

For the first time, rolex is delivering a watch on a rubber strap – except in classic rolex fashion it's not a rubber strap at all. it's a beautifully over-engineered bracelet called the oysterflex..

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There is big news, and there is Rolex big news, and in some ways, ne'er the twain shall meet. At Baselworld this year, Rolex debuted a first for the company: the very first, ever, Rolex delivered on a rubber strap. Now, for most companies this would have little effect on watch enthusiasts other than to evoke (very) tepid interest at best, and boredom at worst – but this is not an ordinary rubber strap, this is an official, designed-and-tested-and-thoroughly-obsessed-over-by-Rolex rubber strap. And thereby hangs a tale.

The Yachtmaster, as we have mentioned in some of our previous coverage , occupies a somewhat particular place in Rolex’s lineup of sports watches; it shares water-resistance and a turning bezel with the Submariner (the latter is water resistant to 300 m while the Yachtmaster standard model is water resistant to 100 m). It is certainly not a tool watch; the Yachtmaster is offered in either platinum and steel, or gold and steel (that’s Rolesium and Rolesor, lest we forget) and is either quietly or unequivocally luxurious depending on what size and metal you go for (Rolex makes the Yachtmaster in both 35 mm and 40 mm sizes). 

The Yachtmaster’s history goes back to the first introduction of the watch in 1992, although the name, interestingly enough, appears on the dial of a prototype Yachtmaster Chronograph from the late 1960s (a watch so legendary I am actually forced to use the word; one of three known is in the collection of Mr. John Goldberger; we covered it – and a host of other remarkable ultra-rare watches from his collection – in a very memorable episode of Talking Watches ).

The term “Yachtmaster” is also, incidentally, used for a certificate of competency in yachting which is issued by the Royal Yachting Association, although we’re unaware of any specific association between the RYA and the Yachtmaster watch.

Now, this newest version of the Yachtmaster does take a few pages from the existing Yachtmaster playbook: 100-meter water resistance, a bidirectional turning bezel, and a dial and hands that echo the Submariner. There are also a couple of features that may make vintage Sub enthusiasts wonder if Rolex mightn’t have an exceedingly subtle sense of humor; the gilt coronet and “Rolex,” and the red lettering, both features which according to HODINKEE founder Ben Clymer would have, had they appeared on a Rolex dive watch, made it instantly the single most popular watch in the modern Rolex inventory. The case is rose gold – Rolex famously makes their own, called Everose, in their own foundry, with a bit of platinum mixed in to prevent discoloration – and the bezel, rather than being some other precious metal (as is the case in the “standard” Yachtmasters) is in black Cerachrom – a very technical-looking matte black that contrasts sharply with the gold case. Somehow, between the rose gold, the Cerachrom bezel, and the new Oysterflex bracelet this manages to be the most luxurious and at the same time most technical Yachtmaster yet (leaving aside the Yachtmaster II, which we recently reviewed right here , but that is a watch that marches to the beat of a different drummer entirely).

The two different versions of the Everose Yachtmaster (40 mm and 37 mm) sport different movements; the larger uses the caliber 3135 and the smaller, the newer 2236, which sports the “Syloxi” silicon balance spring (first used by Rolex in 2014).

The Oysterflex bracelet is, in a nutshell, quite a piece of work. One of the most endearing traits of Rolex as a company is that it tends to demonstrate what we can only describe as a laudable degree of corporate obsessive-compulsive disorder when it comes to research and development, and it does so, often, without making any sort of fanfare about it at all. In this case we do know a little bit about the Oysterflex, however – it is basically designed to have the hypoallergenic and comfort properties of a rubber strap and the durability and shape-retention properties of a bracelet. 

At the core of the Oysterflex bracelet are metal inserts made of titanium and nickel, which are used to affix the bracelet to the clasp and watch case; over those is a sheathing of “high-performance black elastomer.” “Elastomer” is a portmanteau word, formed from “elastic” and “polymer” and is a general term for natural and synthetic rubbers. In addition to the materials complexity of the Oysterflex bracelet, it is also shaped in a rather unusual fashion – there are ridges molded into the the wristward face of the bracelet, which are intended to allow the bracelet when worn to better approximate the natural curvature of the wrist.

They might look a bit odd but in practice, the design works out quite wonderfully; this is easily the most downright comfortable and organic-feeling rubber strap I have ever worn, and like the entire watch manages to be both extremely technical in feel, and very luxurious at the same time; I doubt whether any company has ever taken so much trouble over the design of a strap (for all that Rolex prefers the term “bracelet” in describing the Oysterflex, habit dies hard and you’ll probably find yourself calling it a strap, just as we did). On the wrist, the two stabilizing ridges do exactly what they are supposed to: keep the watch from shifting, as heavier watches on rubber straps are wont to do, without requiring you to have the strap uncomfortably tight. The Everose Oysterlock clasp does a superb job mechanically and also looks fabulous into the bargain; the quality of finish on the clasp and case may not seem terribly elaborate at first, but it is as technically flawless as anything I have ever seen at any price, on any watch.

What we have here, in other words, is a very Rolex interpretation of luxury. Yes, this is a gold watch, and a gold Rolex, and wearing a gold Rolex always carries with it, shall we say, certain semiotic complexities. However there is also another side to the watch, and to the Rolex approach to luxury in general: the taking of such pains to produce technical perfection that technical perfection becomes a luxury in itself.

The Everose Rolex Yachtmaster, in Rolex Everose, with Everose Oysterclasp and Oysterflex bracelet, as shown, $22,000 in 37 mm, and $24,950 in 40 mm. For more info, check out Rolex.com.

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The Watch Of The Open Seas: History Of The Rolex Yacht-Master

Instagram: @rolex

In the year 1992, Swiss watchmaker Rolex would debut a new model line at the Baselworld show that was strikingly similar to the already-popular Submariner. It featured the same 40mm Oyster case with a rotating bezel, the same chronometer-certified caliber, and the same Oyster bracelet.

Seemingly the only difference between the two was the white dial of that first Yacht-Master, a style which has never been an option on a Sub, and the inferior depth rating of 100m when compared to the Sub’s 300m.

Yet, the Yacht-Master was well-received upon launch, and with the passing of time, the yachting-inspired model has evolved and pioneered its own path within Rolex’s catalog.

Read on with us as we go back to the beginning and track the catalysts that paved the way for the most recent Yacht-Master release, the Yacht-Master 42 (226659), to become one of the hottest sports timepieces of the year.

History Of The Rolex Yacht-Master

We’ve broken down our overview of the Yacht-Master into the following segments:

• Release Of The Yacht-Master

The Submariner/Yacht-Master Theory

• Mid-Size & Ladies’ Yacht-Master
• Platinum (Rolesium) Yacht-Master

The Maxi Dial Yacht-Master

• Two-Tone Rolesor Yacht-Master

The Yacht-Master II

• Six-Digit Yacht-Master

The Oysterflex Yacht-Master

Keep scrolling to read this guide from its beginning, or use the links above to jump down to a specific point.

Browse Bob’s Watches Rolex Catalogue

The Release Of The Yacht-Master

The first Yacht-Master watch was launched in 1992 under reference number 16628. It featured a yellow gold case, a bidirectional graduated bezel, and a matching full-gold Oyster bracelet. Its dial was white with black hour indices, while at center were gold Mercedes hands, and beating inside was the 3135 movement.

Rolex ref. 16628. Instagram: @m_j_watches

Previous to the Yacht-Master’s introduction, Rolex had not released a new model line in a quarter century. So, why did they go with the Yacht-Master, a design that risked being a detractor from their existing Submariner? Let’s take a look at the inspiration.

The sport of yachting is one which demands precise timing and extreme coordination of the entire crew for optimal performance, particularly in offshore competitions.

Prototype Daytona Yacht-Master ref. 6239. Image: Christies.com

Rolex believed their waterproof and chronometer-grade timepieces to be more than qualified to handle the knocks of a regatta and keep ticking accurately. The brand is also notorious for their marketing prowess, which led them to act quickly in establishing an association with the sport.

Beginning in 1958 with their first sponsorship of a race, the relationship has endured until today, when the brand sponsors over a dozen international yachting events.

Nevertheless, it’s hard to deny that there exists a large gap between first contact in 1958 and the release of the yacht-inspired timepiece in the early ’90s. Why wasn’t the Yacht-Master released earlier on?

Well, Rolex played around with the idea of yachting chronograph early on, though it never materialized. All that’s left of these trials are an extremely limited number of Daytona ref. 6239 chronograph prototypes with a 39mm case (vs standard 36mm) and modified regatta dials.

Unfortunately, the Yacht-Master concept was scrapped and would not reappear until decades later.

When it did return, none of the previous Yacht-Master’s DNA was there. Furthermore, the 1992 Yacht-Master was bizarrely similar to the 16610 Sub of the time.

Interestingly enough, Rolex folklore tells of a time in the ’80s when the brand sought to update their Submariner . What resulted was less of an update and more of an overhaul, manifested as what we know now as the first Yacht-Master.

Apprehensive of the repercussions that making such aggressive design changes to their staple offering could bring, the brand chose instead to release the watch intended to be a new Submariner as the reborn Yacht-Master instead.

The move worked, and the new Yacht-Masters started flying off the shelves. The Yacht-Master was perceived as a more luxurious Sub, though its bidirectional bezel proved useful for on-the-fly countdowns which are critical in sailing competitions. The waterproof nature of the Oyster case further cemented the Yacht-Master as the ideal first mate.

Mid-Size & Ladies’ Yacht-Master

In 1994, just two years after the debut of the 16628, Rolex would introduce the same design but in smaller case sizes. These were:

• Ref. 68628: Yacht-Master “Mid-Size” in 35mm
• Ref. 69628: Yacht-Master Ladies’ in 29mm

This marked the first time that Rolex ever offered one of their sports models in a smaller case size; all previous instances of case size changes were increases as opposed to reductions. It has been speculated that the smaller cases were intended for the Asian market.

Yacht-Master ref. 16628. Instagram: @thewatchcentre

In the same year, Rolex also offered the same 16628 but this time with a deep blue dial. Blue dials tend to make for broadly-liked watches, and coupled with the gold case and bracelet, the new version was once again a hit.

The Platinum (Rolesium) Yacht-Master

The next update to the model line would come in 1999 with yet another home-run: the Rolesium Yacht-Master. The new watch featured a stainless steel case and bracelet with a platinum dial and platinum-insert bezel. Rolesium, a term registered by Rolex back in the ’30s for a combination of steel and platinum in a watch, was finally put to use.

The new platinum Yacht-Master ref. 16622 was not only more accessible than the previous all-gold varieties, it was also more versatile. This would lead the 16622 variety to become the face of the Yacht-Master line.

In fact, many online resources erroneously label it the first Yacht-Master ever; this should offer an idea of how emblematic it is in the watch industry.

The 16622 also presented a new dial and hand style that would mark Rolex as a whole through to the modern day. The new Yacht-Master boasted what is now recognized as the “maxi dial”.

Rolex Yacht-Master 16628 w/ maxi dial. Instagram: @kellokonttori

The maxi dial is characterized by oversized hour indices as well as larger hands at center. To the untrained eye, the difference may be difficult to spot, though experienced collectors will note the change instantly.

The maxi dial became the style of choice for all modern Rolex sports watches, though it got its start in the 1999 platinum Yacht-Master. A Submariner would first feature a maxi dial in 2003, with the release of the 50th anniversary Rolex Submariner “Kermit” (16610LV).

All versions of the Yacht-Master produced after the introduction of the maxi dial would also feature the new dial design. This included the blue, gold, and white dial versions from years past.

The Two-Tone (Rolesor) Yacht-Master

Six years after the Rolesium Yacht-Master came to be, Rolex would once more put on display their mixed-metal Rolesor style in the two-tone Yacht-Master 16623.

Yacht-Master ref. 16623. Instagram: @v.davidofftimepieces

The 2005 debuts possessed a 40mm steel case, a yellow gold bidirectional bezel, and a two-tone Oyster bracelet. As far as dials, many of the previous styles were also available like the black-on-white, though mother of pearl version were also introduced.

It was during Baselworld 2007 when Rolex would introduce the Yacht-Master’s younger and much larger sibling, the Yacht-Master II. Whereas the original Yacht-Master was very close functionally to the Sub, the Yacht-Master II was completely the opposite.

It can be said that the only overlap between the YM and the YMII is be the name, as the second iteration looks like a whole new watch. This time, though, it’s clear that the watch has been designed with the needs of yachting professionals in mind.

The first Yacht-Master II were marked by a 44mm Oyster case, an Oyster bracelet, a white dial,  and a blue Cerachrom (ceramic) Ring Command bezel. The first two references, 116688 and 116689, were made of yellow gold and white gold, respectively.

Powering the YMII was another innovation – Rolex’s in-house calibre 4161. It features the COSC-chronometer certification and 72-hour power reserve that are today’s standard, though they were industry-leading at the time. Most notable, though, was the 4161 movement’s functions.

The new caliber boasted a “ programmable countdown with mechanical memory and on-the-fly synchronization. ” Naturally, the programming of the movement required the use of the Ring Command bezel, a feature which had also never been encountered on a Rolex watch before.

In later years, Rolex would go on to release Rolesor and full-steel versions of the Yacht-Master II, both of which have been relatively successful. The Yacht-Master II has certainly earned a spot in the brand’s catalog, and is sure to stick around for next couple of decades.

The Six-Digit Yacht-Master

Yacht-Master 116622

Twenty years after it debuted as the 16628, the Yacht-Master would see in 2012 the modernization that had been sweeping Rolex’s other model families.

Aside from receiving a new six-digit reference number (116622), subtle aesthetic changes were also present, as was an outstanding new dial option – the Cobalt Blue dial.

The case was now a “super case”, which retained the 40mm diameter but was styled differently. The bezel was now completely platinum, where previous versions were made of steel with a platinum insert. The Oyster bracelet had likewise been upgraded.

A platinum bezel / platinum dial option was still part of the collection and therefore received the same upgrades. Unfortunately, this iconic “albino” look would be completely discontinued in 2017.

The subsequent and most recent significant change to the Yacht-Master family took place in 2015, when Rolex first introduced the Everose Yacht-Master 40 ref. 116655.

Rolex Everose Yacht-Master on Oysterflex bracelet

The newest iteration of the YM possessed some new features. The case was made of Everose, and the bezel now boasted a black Cerachrom insert. Securing the watch to the wrist was another Rolex first – the Oysterflex rubber ‘bracelet’.

Before the 116655, no Rolex watch had ever sported a rubber band. The brand still refers to it as a bracelet given the metal elements within the band, but these are not obvious even with the watch in the hand.

This same style of Yacht-Master would receive the next update in 2019, when Rolex introduced the Yacht-Master 42 in white gold.

What’s Next?

With the recent changes that the Yacht-Master line has had, it is clear that Rolex intends to keep this model family alive and well for years to come. Consumers are likewise responding to each new release, offering plenty of feedback with their pocketbooks.

If you’d like to read up on any of Rolex’s other model families, make sure to check out some of our extensive watch guides below:

• History Of The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona
• Overview Of The Most Luxurious Pilot’s Watch: The GMT-Master
• How Did The Day-Date Become The President’s Watch?
• Review Of Rolex’s Longest Running Watch Model
• Rolex Watches That Could Become The Investment Of A Lifetime

"I have always been a fan of the Yacht-Master, but I had no idea that it didn't exist until the 1990s. Thanks for the information, and thanks for keeping it entertaining. Well done!"

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.css-1c7en8u{font-size:clamp(1.375rem, 1.25rem + 0.3125vw, 3.125rem);line-height:1.1;margin-bottom:1rem;} Yacht-Master 40 .css-1g7r01k{font-weight:300;font-size:clamp(0.875rem, 0.9375rem + 0.1563vw, 1.25rem);line-height:1.2;text-wrap:balance;}.css-1g7r01k span{display:block;} Oyster, 40 mm, Everose gold Reference 126655

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Staying on course

The Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 40 in 18 kt Everose gold with an Oysterflex bracelet.

Diamond-paved dial, optimal brilliance.

Diamonds, sapphires, rubies, emeralds – the noblest and most precious stones are selected to grace Rolex timepieces. The brand has in-house expertise and equipment enabling it to bejewel any model in its catalogue.

Experienced gemmologists first select gemstones of the highest quality. For this, they can rely on their own seasoned judgement as well as state-of-the-art analysis equipment. The stones are then entrusted to the gem-setters, who skilfully place each precious stone onto the watch by hand, one by one, assuring precision to within hundredths of a millimetre. Such stringent tolerances guarantee that each stone shines with optimal brilliance and is perfectly aligned with those around it. These time-honoured gestures, which may be repeated many hundreds of times, ensure that each gem-set watch produced by Rolex sparkles with exceptional intensity and reflects the standard of excellence required by the brand.

Bidirectional Rotatable Bezel

Timing the distance.

The Yacht-Master’s bidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel is made entirely from precious metals or fitted with a Cerachrom insert in high-tech ceramic. The raised polished numerals and graduations stand out clearly against a matt, sand-blasted background.

This functional bezel – which allows the wearer to calculate, for example, the sailing time between two buoys – is also a key component in the model’s distinctive visual identity.

The Oysterflex Bracelet

Highly resistant and durable.

The Yacht-Master’s new Oysterflex bracelet, developed by Rolex and patented, offers a sporty alternative to metal bracelets. The bracelet attaches to the watch case and the Oysterlock safety clasp by a flexible titanium and nickel alloy metal blade.

The blade is overmoulded with high-performance black elastomer which is particularly resistant to environmental effects, very durable and perfectly inert for the wearer of the watch. For enhanced comfort, the inside of the Oysterflex bracelet is equipped with a patented longitudinal cushion system that stabilizes the watch on the wrist and fitted with an 18 kt Everose gold Oysterlock safety clasp. It also features the Rolex Glidelock extension system, designed by the brand and patented. This inventive toothed mechanism, integrated beneath the clasp, allows fine adjustment of the bracelet length by some 15 mm in increments of approximately 2.5 mm, without the use of tools.

18 kt Everose gold

An exclusive patent

To preserve the beauty of its pink gold watches, Rolex created and patented an exclusive 18 kt pink gold alloy cast in its own foundry: Everose gold.

Introduced in 2005, 18 kt Everose is used on all Rolex Oyster models in pink gold.

More Yacht-Master technical details

Reference   126655

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Oyster, 40 mm, Everose gold

Oyster architecture

Monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown

Bidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel with matt black Cerachrom insert in ceramic, polished raised numerals and graduations

Winding crown

Screw-down, Triplock triple waterproofness system

Scratch-resistant sapphire, Cyclops lens over the date

Water resistance

Waterproof to 100 metres / 330 feet

Perpetual, mechanical, self-winding

3235, Manufacture Rolex

-2/+2 sec/day, after casing

Centre hour, minute and seconds hands. Instantaneous date with rapid setting. Stop-seconds for precise time setting

Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring. High-performance Paraflex shock absorbers

Bidirectional self-winding via Perpetual rotor

Power reserve

Approximately 70 hours

Flexible metal blades overmoulded with high-performance elastomer

Folding Oysterlock safety clasp with Rolex Glidelock extension system

Diamond-paved

Highly legible Chromalight display with long-lasting blue luminescence

Certification

Superlative Chronometer (COSC + Rolex certification after casing)

Learn how to set the time and other functions of your Rolex watch by consulting our user guides.

Yacht-Master 40

Contact an Official Rolex Jeweler

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Rolex Yacht-Master vs. Submariner Date Review

In our latest head-to-head (spoiler: you can’t really make a wrong decision), we’re pitting two nautically-themed titans against each other: one perhaps the most famous Rolex of them all, the other heading towards future classic status.

The Rolex Submariner has been the world’s favorite dive watch for generations now, arriving way back in 1953 and gaining immortality as James Bond’s original gadget of choice. An unqualified success whether in its civilian or military role, the Submariner range split in the 1960s into a date and non-date version – the former going on to be released in a variety of precious metal configurations, alongside the ubiquitous stainless steel models.

As for the Rolex Yacht Master, its roots are very much intertwined with the Submariner. It is believed that during the 80s, Rolex made the decision to completely revamp the all-conquering dive watch, for reasons they alone know. Fortunately, changing the design of their most popular model finally struck someone as a bad idea and the plans were abandoned. However, the work the designers had already carried out was deemed too good to shelve, and it was decided to release it as a separate entity – a more luxurious take on the classic. The Yacht-Master entered the scene in 1992, and would go on to become the first sports watch from Rolex to be released in three sizes – a ladies 29mm, a mid-size 35mm, and the full-size 40mm.

Since its release, the Yacht-Master has developed into one of the most aesthetically varied ranges within the Professional Collection lineup. Due to the wide range of materials and styles, we are going to compare two examples from each series that are as closely matched as possible; the ref. 116610LN Submariner Date and the ref. 126622 Yacht-Master 40.  Prices:  the base model Yacht-Master Reference 126622 has a current retail price of $11,800 USD and the base model Submariner 116610 has a retail price of $8,550 as of 2019.

Rolex Yacht-Master vs. Submariner: The Case

When initially released, the Yacht-Master was an entirely precious metal watch, the original run comprising only of yellow gold pieces. Since then, models in Everose with Cerachrom bezels appeared, as well as a number in Rolesor (Rolex’s own name for a combination of steel and gold). However, along with the more traditional two-tone steel and gold variations, the Yacht-Master also introduced what is known as Rolesium – the brand’s combination of a stainless steel case with a platinum bezel.

The ref. 126622 arrived this year, sporting an updated movement from 2016’s ref. 116622. At 40mm, it is technically the same size as our competing Sub; however, underlining its more opulent bearing, it has retained the gracefully sweeping profile that is more commonly seen on earlier Rolex watches. The Submariner has adopted the beefed-up, angular lugs and crown guards of the Super Case, lending to far more presence on the wrist, and splitting the odd opinion or two.

Even so, there is no getting away from the fact that the two look very similar. The YachtMaster is perhaps the more sleek and showy; the Submariner, by comparison, a rather low-key, everyday choice. One other thing you will likely notice from trying on both – it has a thinner and flatter caseback, making it a more comfortable wear in many people’s eyes. It is due to it only needing 100m of water resistance, whereas the Submariner’s 300m depth dating calls for more bulk.

The defining element of many of Rolex’s tool watches, the bezel on the contemporary Submariner has been forged from Cerachrom, an insanely tough ceramic alloy that is resistant to scratching and fading. In keeping with diving timepiece standards, the bezel insert is marked for 60 minutes, with hash marks for the first 15, and it is unidirectional (only turns one way, a crucial safety feature).

With the Yacht-Master, its bezel rotates in both directions and is made from the most luxurious of all precious metals: solid 950 platinum. Like the Sub, it also shows 60 minute gradations, but they are embossed – raised from the surface rather than engraved. The Yacht-Master’s bezel has a much softer action than the Submariner’s, which revolves with 120 well-defined clicks.

And the final thing that made its introduction with the Yacht-Master; it was the first model to adopt Rolex’s Maxi dial. The larger indexes and fatter hands have been as controversial as the Super Case, but there’s no doubting it makes the face more legible. The ref. 126622 comes with a choice of two dials; in dark rhodium and sunburst blue.

Because the platinum and steel in the watch’s makeup are both white metals, the rhodium dial provides a head-to-toe monochromatic look, broken up only by the bright turquoise on the seconds hand and single line of text. Alternatively, the blue has a real eye-catching contrast and is becoming a hot favorite, especially with its sparingly used bright red detailing on the seconds hand and ‘Yacht-Master’ name.

The Submariner ref. 116610LN is finished with the classic black dial that we all know and love – as you would hope on such a traditional watch. Coupled with the clean white markers and handset, it makes for perfect legibility, whether underwater or sitting at your desk.

The Movements

Until this year, both watches were powered by the same movement – the incredible workhorse that is the Cal. 3135. It is the engine which has been driving the Submariner since 1988, and it is still the one inside the current ref. 116610LN that Rolex sells today. 30-years old or not though, it is a formidable mechanism, accurate to within -2/+2 seconds a day, and fitted with some of the latest in cutting-edge components, such as Rolex’s siogniture Blue Parachrom hairspring.

Rolex unveiled the Yacht-Master 126622 at the most recent Baselworld, ostensibly the same as the old watch except for an updated movement: the Caliber 3235. Representing the next generation of Rolex’s in-house, date-displaying movements, the Cal. 3235 has been fitted with an all-new escapement (called the Chronergy) which is reportedly 15% more efficient than before and offers an improved 70-hour power reserve. Obviously the way Rolex are going with their movements, it is only a matter of time before the Submariner is given the same.

Although clearly cut from the same cloth, there is nevertheless a world of difference between the Rolex Yacht-Master and the Submariner. The Sub these days is the more understated choice. Its brushed surfaces and strict black and white palette don’t shout for attention, yet it’s still brawny enough to get noticed.

The Yacht-Master has always been unapologetically opulent, without the same tool watch origins as the Sub. Of the pair, it is the one more likely to get the looks, its slimmer lines with polished lugs and center links making it the dressy option.

But, as we said at the beginning when choosing between a Rolex Yacht-Master and a Submariner there really is no wrong choice!

About Paul Altieri

Paul Altieri is a vintage and pre-owned Rolex specialist, entrepreneur, and the founder and CEO of BobsWatches.com. - the largest and most trusted name in luxury watches. He is widely considered a pioneer in the industry for bringing transparency and innovation to a once-considered stagnant industry. His experience spans over 35 years and he has been published in numerous publications including Forbes, The NY Times, WatchPro, and Fortune Magazine. Paul is committed to staying up-to-date with the latest research and developments in the watch industry and e-commerce, and regularly engages with other professionals in the industry. He is a member of the IWJG, the AWCI and a graduate of the GIA. Alongside running the premier retailer of pre-owned Rolex watches, Paul is a prominent Rolex watch collector himself amassing one of the largest private collections of rare timepieces. In an interview with the WSJ lifestyle/fashion editor Christina Binkley, Paul opened his vault to display his extensive collection of vintage Rolex Submariners and Daytonas. Paul Altieri is a trusted and recognized authority in the watch industry with a proven track record of expertise, professionalism, and commitment to excellence.

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