mirage 27 sailboat review

Privacy Guaranteed - your email is never shared with anyone, opt out any time.

Review of Mirage 27 (Schmitt)

Basic specs..

The hull is made of fibreglass. Generally, a hull made of fibreglass requires only a minimum of maintenance during the sailing season. And outside the sailing season, just bottom cleaning and perhaps anti-fouling painting once a year - a few hours of work, that's all.

The boat is equipped with 38.0 liter fresh water capacity.

The boat equipped with a masthead rig. The advantage of a masthead rig is its simplicity and the fact that a given sail area - compared with a fractional rig - can be carried lower and thus with less heeling moment.

The boat is typically equipped with an inboard Yanmar 1GM diesel engine at 9 hp (6 kW). Calculated max speed is about 4.4 knots

The fuel tank has a capacity of 45.0 liters (11 US gallons, 9 imperial gallons).

Sailing characteristics

This section covers widely used rules of thumb to describe the sailing characteristics. Please note that even though the calculations are correct, the interpretation of the results might not be valid for extreme boats.

What is Capsize Screening Formula (CSF)?

The capsize screening value for Mirage 27 (Schmitt) is 2.10, indicating that this boat would not be accepted to participate in ocean races.

What is Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed?

The theoretical maximal speed of a displacement boat of this length is 6.2 knots. The term "Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed" is widely used even though a boat can sail faster. The term shall be interpreted as above the theoretical speed a great additional power is necessary for a small gain in speed.

The immersion rate is defined as the weight required to sink the boat a certain level. The immersion rate for Mirage 27 (Schmitt) is about 123 kg/cm, alternatively 692 lbs/inch. Meaning: if you load 123 kg cargo on the boat then it will sink 1 cm. Alternatively, if you load 692 lbs cargo on the boat it will sink 1 inch.

Sailing statistics

This section is statistical comparison with similar boats of the same category. The basis of the following statistical computations is our unique database with more than 26,000 different boat types and 350,000 data points.

What is Motion Comfort Ratio (MCR)?

What is L/B (Length Beam Ratio)?

What is Displacement Length Ratio?

What is SA/D (Sail Area Displacement ratio)?

Maintenance

Are your sails worn out? You might find your next sail here: Sails for Sale

If you need to renew parts of your running rig and is not quite sure of the dimensions, you may find the estimates computed below useful.

This section is reserved boat owner's modifications, improvements, etc. Here you might find (or contribute with) inspiration for your boat.

Do you have changes/improvements you would like to share? Upload a photo and describe what you have done.

We are always looking for new photos. If you can contribute with photos for Mirage 27 (Schmitt) it would be a great help.

If you have any comments to the review, improvement suggestions, or the like, feel free to contact us . Criticism helps us to improve.

• Forums New posts Unanswered threads Register Top Posts Email
• What's new New posts New Posts (legacy) Latest activity New media
• Media New media New comments
• Boat Info Downloads Weekly Quiz Topic FAQ 10000boatnames.com
• Classifieds Sell Your Boat Used Gear for Sale
• Parts General Marine Parts Hunter Beneteau Catalina MacGregor Oday
• Help Terms of Use Monday Mail Subscribe Monday Mail Unsubscribe

Mirage 27 (Perry)

• Thread starter Drinky Crow
• Start date Apr 29, 2020
• Forums for All Owners

Drinky Crow

If it rates 198, the J/24’s and J/28’s , which rate 171, are going to sail circles around it. Looks nice though, and would certainly be more comfortable than the J/24.  

I can't find one rated on our PHRF-BC list out here but according to an old US PHRF list it'll rate either 210 or 216. They're not very clear, listing a 27-1 as standard (198) or w/TM (177) and a 27-2 (204) which might be the Schmiht design?  

• This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more…

Mirage 27 perry

The mirage 27 perry is a 27.92ft masthead sloop designed by robert perry and built in fiberglass by mirage yachts ltd (can) since 1982..

The Mirage 27 perry is a moderate weight sailboat which is a reasonably good performer. It is very stable / stiff and has a low righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a day-boat.

Mirage 27 perry for sale elsewhere on the web:

Main features

Login or register to personnalize this screen.

You will be able to pin external links of your choice.

See how Sailboatlab works in video

We help you build your own hydraulic steering system - Lecomble & Schmitt

Accommodations

Builder data

Other photos

Modal Title

The content of your modal.

Personalize your sailboat data sheet

Paste a link here:

Give it a title:

And eventually a link to an image for the thumbnail:

• Forum Listing
• Marketplace
• Advanced Search
• About The Boat
• Boat Builders Row
• SailNet is a forum community dedicated to Sailing enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about sailing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, repairs, reviews, maintenance, and more!

Mirage 33 good and bad

• Add to quote

Hi all, Have just taken the plunge on a 1982 Mirage 33. I'm looking for advice on the boat in terms of the good and not so good points of the boat. What to watch for, what might need attention (other than the stem plate). Where any leaks might come from, any mods to make the boat more liveable etc. I have a dozen years sailing experience and have owned 2 sailboats previously so am looking for specifics on the Mirage 33. Any and all advice welcome.  

1973TR6 said: Hi all, Have just taken the plunge on a 1982 Mirage 33. I'm looking for advice on the boat in terms of the good and not so good points of the boat. Click to expand...

Thanks for the links, Yes, the bad and the good.... I have briefly sailed a Mirage 33 before and found it a bit tender and also had a tendency to round up with the wind off the stern quarter (just like my Hunter 31). Had to be quick on the mainsheet with the Hunter also. I did quite a bit of research before buying her but am interested in other peoples experiences and what they found worked / didn't work. It's all personal experience but sometimes someone comes up with something that makes you think "that's obvious, why didn't I think of it" Storage solutions, what modifications were made, extras added, bells and whistles that were (or not) worthwhile. All good info......  

Welcome to Sailnet. Can't go wrong with a Bob Perry boat! If you are interested in cavorting with other Perry boat owners (and the Maestro himself), there is a Facebook page.  

I too have a 1982 Mirage 33, going on 3 years now. So far I haven't found any problems other than what would be expected from an older boat. Construction seems above average for the type of boat and always has a dry bilge. What type of sailing do you plan on and where?  

Apologies for the late reply. We will be cruising in the Pacific Northwest - San Juans, Gulf Islands, Vancouver, Desolation Sound etc, also possibly a circumnavigation of Vancouver Island. I have done quite a bit of club racing so that's a possibility also. We are currently making the boat more "livable" which involves updating some electronics, adding lighting, storage solutions, and so on. The current project is chasing down rain water leaks and I need to re bed one of the salon fixed portlights but can't figure out how to get the old ones off as there are no visible screws. Any suggestions ?  

Another guy bought one here this last year, GuyFromtheNorth I think. He replaced the stem fitting as it is a known week point with a custom made one. From what I have read about the boats they are well made. I wanted to look at a M35 when I was in Canada last summer but the timing did not work out.  

It would help to know the make of the ports. The exterior trim rings on some plastic ports are just glued on with silicone sealant. They are the originals with the boat, I can't see any makers' name. The exterior is aluminum and doesn't appear to be thick enough to support hidden screws. The inner trim is plastic and may be hiding fasteners from the inside but I don't want to do any damage prying them off.  

For the salon fixed portlights repair on sailing anarchy a guy named dan33 or you can look up by his boat name gatekeeper, he posted a good step by step on his portlight repair. I need to replace my as well but thinking on doing it a different way than his, not better just faster. So far in the time I have owned my boat most of my repairs have been wiring, factory boat wiring leaves much to be desired and even worse were the PO attempts at adding to it. I haven't done it but behind the salon seat backrests there is what seems like a large void between the hull and liner you could cut access holes in there for storage other than that there doesn't seem to be and excess use of interior liner. I have been thinking about sound insulation for the engine compartment but haven't spent much time coming up with a plan but seems like it could be beneficial.  

I would like to share what I have found out refitting my Mirage 35: Fixed portlinghts - I removed the aluminum frames, tcleaned them with a wire brush, had them powdercoated, threw away the 'incredible shrinking grey plastic gaskets' , had a plastics shop make the largest ast acrylic replacement lenses that could fit in, and then had the lenses set intthe frames using Dow Corning 795 sealant. Then, after cleaning the area around the ports with stainless steel wool and acetone, remounted the cured external ports using 795 to seal between the port and cabin side. 3 years and no leaks, but best is no cheap plastic gaskets. Now if only I could find inside moldings to replace the white plastic ones I threw out, I would feel the job completed! Storage behind settees in salons: I purchased a set of plans for the M33/35 from Bob Perry. The boat interior he drew is not the boat interior Mirage made. Perry drew storage behind the settees and also in the vberth sides. I cut out holes - 3 each side, in both salon and vberth. Size approx 8" high and 16" long. It is necessary to bridge the gap located at the turn of the seal ( ie where it goes from horizontal to vertical )at the point where the liner almost approaches the hull but does not quite. If you don't, then stuff you put in will slip down into the lockers below the seats / v berth. For the salon, I used plywood cut to the hull form - screwed to the bottom of the seat and glued to the hull with some Sika 291LOT. For the vberth, I cut 1 inch triangular strips of wood each about 3 feet long. After dry fitting, I buttered the wood strip edges with 291 and installed them. After the 291 set, I have a sealed bottom for the storage spaces. I am considering installing fabric covers ( with upholstery snaps) to close the storage areas and keep in their contents. Suggestions are welcome! FWIW, I also installed additional opening ports - one in quarter berth, one on each side of the salon, one on each side of the vberth. All 4X14s except one on starboard side of the vberth is 4X10 as that was all that would fit. The deck hardware on our boats is of disappointing quality. I bit the bullet and bought a load of replacement deck hardware from Stainless Outfitters. WARNING! The stanchion bases are not trustworthy. One of the ones I bought from Stainless Outfitters snapped off at the base due to defective welding when the wind blew the winter cover against the stanchion it contained. I had it re-welded by a local welder and am in the process of having all re-welded this winter. Also the gimpy set screws they use to hold the stanchion tubes into the bases were poorly threaded, some just didn't set, and they simply put a dimple into the stanchion tube. I would NOT trust them for anything. If you are thinking of Stainless Outfitters as a solution, I have experienced their custom work on my boat - a failed installation of a windlass; installation of their stainless steel bow stem fitting ( unfilled holes left exposed), their davits ( too heavy, not suited to the Mira)ge and I got rid of them. I dropped by their yard one day to see how installation work was going on my boat (which was left in their yard) and found a small group of high school students working on installing stanchion bases, corner pieces, bow stem fitting, mast step, etc. No wonder the installation was poorly done. But that did not stop them from charging me $2000 for installation. Frankly, given the disappointments with them, and my very good experiences with Garhauer, I would not bother with Stainless Outfitters and would just buy from Garhauer. No bs. Not my intention to bad mouth anyone, but I am sick and tired of people in the marine industry ripping off trusting boat owners. Also, I couldn't stand the thought of someone relying on a stanchion base that was as poorly quality controlled as the defective crap they sold me....Lets be serious guys, defective stanchion bases can kill people! I have a number of other projects in the hopper for my boat, and appreciate information you can share about your progress. Cheers  

1973TR6 said: Hi all, Have just taken the plunge on a 1982 Mirage 33. I'm looking for advice on the boat in terms of the good and not so good points of the boat. What to watch for, what might need attention (other than the stem plate). Where any leaks might come from, any mods to make the boat more liveable etc. I have a dozen years sailing experience and have owned 2 sailboats previously so am looking for specifics on the Mirage 33. Any and all advice welcome. Click to expand...

Your description of the boat is very different than the one I own or others I looked at. Of the three I inspected none of them had gel coat issues, any signs of hull damage at the keel joint which I am sure all being great lake boats they hit bottom at least once in the last 30+ years or high moisture readings in the hull. Its not a very popular so I would be curious how many you personally worked on that had almost lost a keel or needed a new mast or boom. To say its not as durable as a Hunter, Oday or a Catalina of equal size or vintage after inspecting a couple of those as well makes wonder about your experience with the 33/35.  

I am a professional marine service provider. Work Performed On Various Mirage 33s: 1. 30A AC Shore Power System Installation (2) 2. DC Panel Replacement (1) 3. Ice Box / Refrigeration Conversion (1) 4. Multiple Gelcoat Void Repairs (2) 5. Electronics Installations (2) 6. Rudder Repairs (1) 7. Hull / Keel Join Repairs (2) 8. Keel Bolt Retorquing (1) 9. Boom Repairs (2) 10. Plumbing Upgrades (1) One thing I forgot to mention previously; these boats were often equipped with a Yanmar 2GM20, outputting 16 HP at 3400 RPM. This was a nice light engine to get one out of the marina for PHRF racing, but not very powerful for a cruising boat. They are raw water cooled, and are not equipped with a heat exchanger for domestic hot water. They struggle with anything more than a 35 A alternator. A 3GM30F would have been a better solution for cruising in my opinion. My honest opinion is that they are a lightly built boat with good sailing performance. On the cruising and durability scale they don't score as high as others. Every boat is a compromise.  

My goal was not to argue but to show what your claims were based off of. Maybe next week or ten years from now someone in the market for a boat in that category will Google it for some information on one and your post with your claims of "The spars are very light and prone to breaking under significant load" or "The hull/keel joint is weak and prone to damage in a grounding" will show. With no one challenging your claims they might seem credible. Then the fact that this is based off of maybe a total of 4 boats out of the 100+ that were built and no actual evidence of keel failure or a mast folding in half hopefully they will dismiss these claims and move on with there search. We all have opinions on different boats some good some bad but to say spares are prone to failure with significant loads which are what? Or the keels are poorly attached then I would like to know the testing you went through to come up with those results that in all my research have never heard off. The reality is you don't know what those loads are nor do you know the strength difference between the keel attachment of a mirage or any other bolt on keel of a boat in its category I have no clue either and would never claim to. If you worked for the company back in the 80s and knew of warranty claims then it would be hard to argue but that is not the case. I just find it funny to watch the years go by and people trashing certain boats mostly "production" ones. With many of them reaching close to forty years old with masts still up and keels still attached. Without worry I will continue to sail mine for years to come leaving the experts in disbelief.  

Stating "My goal was not to argue", after a lengthy contradiction to one post and preceding another, speaks volumes. You appear to disagree with my opinion (fine), but having no logical argument against it, have begun attempting to attack my credibility (not cool). Never-the-less, here is my rebuttal to this tactic. I have completed extensive studies in Electrical, Electronic, and Mechanical engineering at the Canadian community college level. I am an ABYC member. (This is the association of industry experts that develops marine safety standards for construction and repair.) I am an ABYC certified Marine Systems Technician. I have also completed extensive formal studies in welding and small engines. I own a yacht service company, and work full time, personally repairing yachts for my many clients. Among my client base includes 4 Mirage owners, one 24 and three 33s. I have performed a significant body of work on these vessels and other makes and models. I am intimately familiar with the engine installed in this vessel and have found it to be light in comparison with others of similar size and displacement, and especially with more robust cruising vessels. I am a Yanmar dealer. I have raced and cruised sailing vessels extensively for over 20 years. I have had several sailing and sailboat repair articles published in respected US and Canadian Yachting publications. I have and continue to deliver seminars to boating interest groups on the safe and effective repair of yachts. I have been a member, executive director, vice commodore, and then commodore of a Canadian Yacht Club. I have reviewed and evaluated Mirage 33 spars, and found them to be of generally weak construction compared to similar and especially to more robust cruising vessels. I have installed thru-hulls in Mirage 33s and found them to be balsa-cored. IMHO, this construction is not desirable in a cruising vessel, as the increased potential damage due to moisture ingress, is not worth the fractional increase speed in light airs. (Most cruisers who cannot make 3+/- knots to the good, often just start the engine.) I have removed factory installed thru-hulls and found the balsa core to be sealed solely by marine adhesive/bedding compound, having a life expectancy of approximately 15 +/- 5 years, barring any physical force which could break this seal earlier and at any time. I have reviewed, evaluated, rigged, and tuned the M33 mast, and found it to be of relatively light design and construction. I have a M33 boom in my shop right now that I am working on (poor reefing system performance.) I have consulted an owner whose boom snapped near the gooseneck as a result of an accidental jybe with preventer on. I have reviewed and evaluated Mirage 33 keel attachments, and found them to be of inferior design and weak construction compared to other vessels. I have repaired hull/keel join fractures on 2 vessels are retorqued the keel bolts on one. This is my business, my livelihood, that I stake my reputation on every day. Do I know everything? Not by a long shot. Despite all of my training and experience to date, I keep my mind constantly open to new ideas and concepts. I am enrolled in continuing education in the marine industry. It is a rare day that I have not learned something new. However, I believe I am well qualified to speak to the qualities of these vessels with which I am intimately familiar, in comparison to other makes and models, that I have also worked on extensively from virtually every aspect of marine repair. If you personally wish to disregard my opinions, please do so. If you feel your only strength of rebuttal is to attempt to attack my credibility, please don't. In summary, IMHO, the Mirage 33 is an excellent performance cruiser if the emphasis is on performance and not so much on robust construction and durability.  

Not sure where to start. You brought up the cored hull and engine for what reason I am not sure... Thanks for your resume we will keep you in mind? I attacked you and your opinion by asking for evidence of these boats being prone for mast, keel and boom failures? I have no facts to prove I never stated any only questions to what you stated. Saying "in my opinion the rigs are a little light" is a lot different than prone to failure. What's "not cool" is stating opinions as facts which hurt the owners of these boats. I can find nowhere other than here in this thread of these boats being any more likely to lose a keel or the mast than any other boat in its class.  

Hi Boatsurgeon, I have a Mirage 35. I’d like to replace the two reef lines this winter. There appears to be in-boom sheaves around which the lines are routed? Any advice on how to accomplish this? Thanks!  

Knot Again said: Hi Boatsurgeon, I have a Mirage 35. I'd like to replace the two reef lines this winter. There appears to be in-boom sheaves around which the lines are routed? Any advice on how to accomplish this? Thanks! Click to expand...

Thanks. When you pull that boom apart, I’d appreciate it if you could let me know the length of the two reef lines. Binding does seem to be an issue. Last year I replaced the masthead and base of mast sheaves, but both sails require more effort than I consider reasonable to raise. If you have a y thoghts, please share!  

Knot Again said: Thanks. When you pull that boom apart, I'd appreciate it if you could let me know the length of the two reef lines. Binding does seem to be an issue. Last year I replaced the masthead and base of mast sheaves, but both sails require more effort than I consider reasonable to raise. If you have a y thoghts, please share! Click to expand...

Thanks!  

Interesting conversation here, and I'm not here to start a fight, just some comments I have after a full year of Lake Huron cruising on my 1982 M33. -The stemhead is known to fail. There's proof of this. I had mine made by Stainless Outfitters in Southern Ontario, solid piece, replaced it myself with the boat in the water and mast in place, not rocket science (I made a thread on this). -The rest of the boat has been AMAZING. She sails well (much to the envy of my friend with a C&C) she's comfortable, we love love love this boat after much shopping. -Watch for chainplate leaks. They are mounted to a plywood bulkhead and if those rot from a tiny leak in the deck you will have a bad time. Seal the chainplates properly before the leak appears. -It's a deck stepped mast, make sure everything is sealed proper there as well, don't risk the step! -My spreaders had cracks on their trailing edges (found this winter when we hauled out and plucked the mast). I had a machine shop do a foldover patch and welded them properly, stronger than new, but prevent them from failing (bad times I'm sure). Inspect your spreaders, especially the trailing edge! -I found it very difficult to access the fuel tank to drain\clean it. I can't get a syphon hose down the fillter port (the fuel line is routed with too many bends in it) and it's tight working in the lazarette to get INSIDE the tank. I'm figuring out a good way to do it this spring after giving up last summer. Now, I did alot of research on this boat. Time and time again everyone confirmed they had a solid FG hull. The deck has balsa. I also know the Mirage's were carried on for a long production run too so maybe some of the very late production years had cored hulls, the '82 almost definitely did not unless all my research sources were wrong (save for the 1 post here I'm reading which is the first I've ever heard of it). Every Mirage I looked at had a heat exchanger freshwater cooling system, so I assume the statement of how they are all raw water cooled if true means most owners upgraded at some point, or that the freshwater cooling was an option offered. To be fair, I looked at 3 M33's and 1 M35 during my shopping, all freshwater cooler (heat exchanger + coolant). Although a little more power is nice in a diesel, especially in bad weather (don't forget this is a SAILboat now), I will agree the 2gmF13 is about as small an engine as I would want to go on a boat like this, but I don't feel it to be dangerously underpowered for crusing by any means. Without taxing the engine (not riding the redline) in mixed to moderate weather (steep waves on the lake) we still putter along as 5kts+ when we need to motor, with power remaining in the RPM if we needed it. Just my 0.02c. Not trying to start a finger pointing game, just what I know to date. EDIT: One last thing in regards specifically to the early 80's M33\35. Honestly I haven't found a single person on the internet (until now, it's now "1") who can say a bad thing about these boats. That goes down to surveyors I know, brokers I spoke to (who weren't selling me the boat, just in conversation), other sailors, and even John Kretschmer himself. I took his workshops a while back and when I bought my current boat he applauded it and said it was a great boat and that some of those early Perry designs were under recognized. If I had to guess why they are under recognized it would be because they are a Canadian made boat generally from the Great Lakes and they don't exactly populate marinas in Florida.  

This summer I kept my boat out of the water so I could catch up on some much needed work. I removed the transmission to repair the clutch cone that was slipping and with the trans out it made sense to remove the fuel tank so I could clean and inspect it. With both the fuel tank and trans removed I figured this would be the time to add some sound deadening to the engine compartment. I haven't finished adding the material to the entire area but I have about 80 percent of it done. When it is complete I will do a follow up on if or how much improvement it made. Another thing I almost completed was replacing the fixed portlights which I think we may have a similar dilemma in what to use to fill the interior void where the interior liner meets the glass. I ended up doing a surface mount with vhb tape a Dow Corning 795 calk. Also looking at replacing my 2 blade flexofold with a Campbell sailer propeller before it launches next season. I haven't been happy with the flexofold in reverse as some have had problems where doesn't open up fully and stopping takes way to long. I'm also wanting less vibration and noise which no 2 blade will be able to deliver. I have been working on other projects like replacing hoses, sheets, battery charger and more wiring but not much to learn from those.  

I know this is an older thread and may not get a response, but worth a try... I purchased a 1983 Mirage 33 project. In all the bins of parts I was given there is no furling drum. The forestay appears to have some of the main parts still there except for the drum itself. Does anyone out there know who made the furling systems on these boats and where one might find parts??? Thanks in advance!  

Attachments

From the pic, looks like a Harken.  

• ?            
• 176.4K members

Top Contributors this Month

Great choice! Your favorites are temporarily saved for this session. Sign in to save them permanently, access them on any device, and receive relevant alerts.

• Sailboat Guide

Mirage 2700 (UK)

Mirage 2700 (UK) is a 25 ′ 5 ″ / 7.8 m monohull sailboat designed by Feltham/Thames Marine and built by Thames Marine starting in 1979.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

It is thought that the MIRAGE 2700 is based on the hull of the Feltham designed MIRAGE 28, but with a raised deck and truncated stern. Similar to the LEISURE 27SL. Available with a fin keel, draft: 1.44m / 5ft

Embed this page on your own website by copying and pasting this code.

• About Sailboat Guide

©2024 Sea Time Tech, LLC

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.