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- Sailboat Guide
S2 6.7 is a 22 ′ 0 ″ / 6.7 m monohull sailboat designed by Don Wennersten and built by S2 Yachts between 1980 and 1983.
- 1 / 3 Putney, VT, US 1980 S2 6.7 $4,000 USD View
- 2 / 3 Putney, VT, US 1980 S2 6.7 $4,000 USD View
- 3 / 3 Putney, VT, US 1980 S2 6.7 $4,000 USD View
Rig and Sails
Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.
The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.
Classic hull speed formula:
Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL
Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL
Sail Area / Displacement Ratio
A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.
SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3
- SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
- D : Displacement in pounds.
Ballast / Displacement Ratio
A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.
Ballast / Displacement * 100
Displacement / Length Ratio
A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.
D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³
- D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
- LWL: Waterline length in feet
Comfort Ratio
This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.
Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )
- D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
- LOA: Length overall in feet
- Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet
Capsize Screening Formula
This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.
CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)
AKA S2 6.7 GRAND SLAM. Thanks to Bob Proctor for providing updated information for this yacht. A few boats were turned out with a fixed keel.(draft: 4.5’)
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New S2 6.7 Owner - Lifting Keel Maintenance
- Thread starter FourthCoast
- Start date Nov 12, 2018
- Tags 6.7 core hull keel
- Brand-Specific Forums
FourthCoast
Hello, I recently became the new owner of a 1980 S2 6.7. I hope someone here might be able to point me to some recommended maintenance procedures. The manual I have found online and the information that came with the boat does not say much about how to keep the systems unique to this boat working properly. Specifically I would like to know what I should do with the lifting keel to ensure that I am always able to lift it. Having something break and being unable to get the boat on the trailer could be a serious issue. I am also looking for recommendations on how to make sure the hull stays solid. I am familiar with looking for soft spots on a cored deck near hardware as other through deck fittings. I am not sure what I should do to make sure the laminated hull does not turn to mush and fail. The light weight sold me on this design, but I have to imagine part of the price is making sure the balsa all stays completely dry. Thanks in advance for any advice or links to information.
First of all, welcome to SBO! You will find you get some great advice here. You may want to ask these questions in "ask all sailers" because there are many sailboats that use a lifting keel and cored hulls. I have a 1979 S2 7.3 - a completely different boat from the same manufacturer. I can't help with your lifting keel concerns but I have a few questions: Are you leaving the boat in the water for extended periods of time or is it put on a trailer after every sail? Are there Zebra mussels in your body of water? Will you be sailing in shallow water or is lifting the keel only a concern for trailering? For the cored hull, it is similar to inspecting a cored deck. Look at through hull fittings and make sure they are sealed. Look for soft areas on the hull by tapping from the outside. Inspect the fiberglass on inside of the hull for cracks or holes that can let water in to the core. Inspect the lowest areas for standing water, etc. Good to see another S2 owner!
Hi FDL, Thank you for the response. I will take your advice and post in the 'Ask All Sailers' area. From what I understand the lifting keels on the S2s are somewhat unique. I thought it would be best to try to find some other S2 6.7 or 6.9 owners first. Thank you for the advice on the cored hull. It seems I need to develop an ear for tapping on good fiberglass vs wet or de-laminated fiberglass. I never had much luck 'hearing' problems with a deck but when walking on deck I have found soft spots by 'feel' a number of times. Here are the answers to your direct questions: Are you leaving the boat in the water for extended periods of time or is it put on a trailer after every sail? At the moment the idea is to work on the boat in the driveway and trailer the boat to the launch every time I want to sail. We will see how long that lasts. The slip prices might look like a better deal after I put the rig up and take it down a few times. Even I if do stick with the trailer sailing I will still plan to do some short cruising or at least anchor our over night at the local harbor. In this case I expect to leave to boat in the water for no more than 1 week at a time during Summer 2019. Are there Zebra mussels in your body of water? Yes! I am amazed at how they manage to grow inside places with such small openings to the water. Zebra mussels love it here on Lake Michigan. Are you suggesting that they can set up shop inside the keel trunk and foul it so badly that the keel no longer moves? Will you be sailing in shallow water or is lifting the keel only a concern for trailering? I settled on a lifting keel for trailering purposes. I like the 6.7 in particular due to the claimed 10" draft with the keel up. Since I now have an ultra-shoal sailboat I plan to trailer sail and also get setup to anchor out in what ever shallow gunk holes I can find far away from other boats. So I guess what I am trying to say is that I will be motoring and anchoring in shallow water but I expect to have the keel all the way down when actually sailing. Thanks again.
FourthCoast said: Hi FDL, Thank you for the response. I will take your advice and post in the 'Ask All Sailers' area. From what I understand the lifting keels on the S2s are somewhat unique. I thought it would be best to try to find some other S2 6.7 or 6.9 owners first. Thank you for the advice on the cored hull. It seems I need to develop an ear for tapping on good fiberglass vs wet or de-laminated fiberglass. I never had much luck 'hearing' problems with a deck but when walking on deck I have found soft spots by 'feel' a number of times. Here are the answers to your direct questions: Are you leaving the boat in the water for extended periods of time or is it put on a trailer after every sail? At the moment the idea is to work on the boat in the driveway and trailer the boat to the launch every time I want to sail. We will see how long that lasts. The slip prices might look like a better deal after I put the rig up and take it down a few times. Even I if do stick with the trailer sailing I will still plan to do some short cruising or at least anchor our over night at the local harbor. In this case I expect to leave to boat in the water for no more than 1 week at a time during Summer 2019. Are there Zebra mussels in your body of water? Yes! I am amazed at how they manage to grow inside places with such small openings to the water. Zebra mussels love it here on Lake Michigan. Are you suggesting that they can set up shop inside the keel trunk and foul it so badly that the keel no longer moves? Will you be sailing in shallow water or is lifting the keel only a concern for trailering? I settled on a lifting keel for trailering purposes. I like the 6.7 in particular due to the claimed 10" draft with the keel up. Since I now have an ultra-shoal sailboat I plan to trailer sail and also get setup to anchor out in what ever shallow gunk holes I can find far away from other boats. So I guess what I am trying to say is that I will be motoring and anchoring in shallow water but I expect to have the keel all the way down when actually sailing. Thanks again. Click to expand
Oops sorry fourth- I typoed Mine is also a 6.9
Thanks for the response, henke. I will be sure to replace the cable. It seems like some sort of back up line or at least a messenger line to help jury rig a keel lift would be a good idea as well. Do you think the bracket or whatever attaches the cable to the keel would ever need to be replaced? I imagine you got a good look at it when you replaced the cable. I am not clear -- do you have an S2 6.7 or a 6.9? I looked and looked for a 6.9 and eventually gave up and went for the 6.7. In the drawings the S2 6.9 interior looks really sweet. If you have a 6.9 for sale I am going to kick myself for picking up the 6.7 just a few months ago.
I have a 1980 S2 6.7 hull 17 whic I sail on Petenwell Lake in Wisconsin. I assume your winch set up uses a 2 to 1 purchase. You may want to remove and inspect the wire rope sheave which attaches to the keel lifting tab, as mine was built pretty light considering the keel weighs 525 lbs. Several years ago I had a hard grounding which broke the sheave. The cable itself was not damaged. Once back at the dock I was able to cut the sheave free using a Dremmel tool mounted to a long stick along with a long rod bent 90 degrees at the end to push out the bushing in the keel lifting tab. To replace the original sheave I fabricated a shackle and steel rope sheave along with a pin fabricated from 1/4 inch 304 stainless steel which fits the hole in the keel lifting tab. The cover on the winch can be disassembled by removing the tiny locking set screws then unscrew the cover. Once open clean out the old grease then replace with marine grade grease. Raising and lowering the keel will be much easier. The cable should be periodically inspected for strand breakage. I hope this helps.
Do you have any pictures of the winch that raises your keel and the set up around it? How its attached, etc...?
Rangerick, My boat is currently in heated storage at an old Walmart building in Tomah. When we get it out this spring I will take pictures of the winch system and keel attachment.
Thanks. I would like to see if its similar to my 8.0C. I'm restoring my S2 and I tore out all the rot and water damaged wood, but forgot to take a picture of it in order to replace it.
felbz said: I have a 1980 S2 6.7 hull 17 whic I sail on Petenwell Lake in Wisconsin. I assume your winch set up uses a 2 to 1 purchase. You may want to remove and inspect the wire rope sheave which attaches to the keel lifting tab, as mine was built pretty light considering the keel weighs 525 lbs. Several years ago I had a hard grounding which broke the sheave. The cable itself was not damaged. Once back at the dock I was able to cut the sheave free using a Dremmel tool mounted to a long stick along with a long rod bent 90 degrees at the end to push out the bushing in the keel lifting tab. To replace the original sheave I fabricated a shackle and steel rope sheave along with a pin fabricated from 1/4 inch 304 stainless steel which fits the hole in the keel lifting tab. The cover on the winch can be disassembled by removing the tiny locking set screws then unscrew the cover. Once open clean out the old grease then replace with marine grade grease. Raising and lowering the keel will be much easier. The cable should be periodically inspected for strand breakage. I hope this helps. Click to expand
Hello Fourth Coast, I just joined the forum and see that your original post was some two years ago, so my response to your questions is a little late. What did you end up doing about the keel maintenance issues and hull core concerns? Also, after all this time I'm curious if you figured out an efficient way to step your mast or if you decided not to be a masochist and put the boat in a slip? I have had my 6.9 for about ten years and am pretty familiar with all the things you bring up. I launch the boat off the trailer every time so have the mast stepping and rigging routine figured out so it's pretty painless. Also have replaced the keel lift winch and reinforced the deck under it and the turning block, plus replaced the keel raising line...pretty much done it all...let me know if you want to chat about any or all of it. Nice boats, huh? Cheers, Clayt
Looking for some information about the 6.7. I just spent the winter restoring a new to me boat. Launched it yesterday and attempted to deploy the keel. Can’t quite tell if its all the way down. From what I can tell , there’s still a fair amount of keel in the trunk. Is this normal? When down, there’s slack in the cable and a single depth of cable still wrapped across the entire spool.
JDE, On my boat there is at least one turn of cable around the winch when the keel is all the way down. After I have the keel down and have sailed for some time it takes a little bit more effort to get it to 'pop' out of the fully down position. I think the keel rests in a V-shaped section at the bottom of the keel trunk and sort of jams itself in. If you want to try to measure it I think you should be able to use a small rod or something to probe the top of the keel. Measure how much rod sticks out the top with the keel all the way up and then measure again with it all the way down and the cable slack. I think you should measure about 3 foot 8 inches, based on the min/max draft here: https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/s2-67 I have never measured the travel on my keel. The 'pop' when I crank it back up was enough to convince me that it was all the way down.
Clayt, I was looking for the 6.9 since the accommodations seem to be a little better for the pocket-cruising I hope to do some day. In the end I found a 6.7 first. On the plus side it has no port lights, which means no port light leaks. I was able to rent a mooring ball for a price that is painful, but not devastating, like the price of a slip. I honestly like the ball better than being at a dock most of the time. I have sort of my own private part of the harbor and I don't have to worry about hitting the half-million-dollar yacht in the slip next to me when I am single handing. So far I have done zero keel maintenance. I have a couple ideas about how to replace the winch, but I am not sure what I am going to do. Hopefully I do not get stuck in deep water before I get around rebuilding it.
Hey, thanks for the reply. I've done some further investigating and confirmed is is not fully deploying - about a foot short. I used an endoscope camera was able to get some good footage of the interior of the trunk. I presumed there was some kind of build-up or crud that was obstructing the keel. Turns out the interior of the trunk is clean. Then I put it on a lift and tried lowering it only to discover that it rubs hard on the port side and jams. The keel has about 4-5 layers of paint and there's an equal number of layers on the lower inside foot of the trunk. The guides are also up hard against the inside of the trunk. We are planning to pull it out of the top, look for any deformation/swelling that may have occurred and then strip the paint and sand down the guides. Hoping it drops in aft that.
Attachments
JDE, When you pull the keel out will you please take a whole bunch of photos showing what the keel and the inside of the trunk look like?
Hello everyone. Glad I found this site I have a 1980 S2 6.7 that I’ve raced for 20 years. After racing it today I was lifting the keel and the cable snapped. Any advice on how to retract the keel would be greatly appreciated. Is this something that I need to haul the boat out to do, or is there a way to do it with boat in the water?
henke said: ... I would recommend checking and probably replacing said keel lift line. Pretty easy job on the trailer. Good luck and have fun. Tim Click to expand
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Review of S2 6.7
Basic specs..
The hull is made of fibreglass. Generally, a hull made of fibreglass requires only a minimum of maintenance during the sailing season. And outside the sailing season, just bottom cleaning and perhaps anti-fouling painting once a year - a few hours of work, that's all.
The S2 6.7 has been built with different keel alternatives.
Unknown keel type
The boat can enter even shallow marinas as the draft is just about 1.28 - 1.38 meter (4.20 - 4.50 ft) dependent on the load. See immersion rate below.
DaggerBoard
The S2 6.7 is equipped with a daggerboard keel. A daggerboard is a lifting keel that can be lowered and raised, allowing the boat to enter shallow waters as well.
The boat can sail close to the beach as the draft is just 0.25 - 0.35 meter (0.82 - 1.12 ft) dependent of the load. See immersion rate below.
Sailing characteristics
This section covers widely used rules of thumb to describe the sailing characteristics. Please note that even though the calculations are correct, the interpretation of the results might not be valid for extreme boats.
What is Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed?
The theoretical maximal speed of a displacement boat of this length is 5.8 knots. The term "Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed" is widely used even though a boat can sail faster. The term shall be interpreted as above the theoretical speed a great additional power is necessary for a small gain in speed.
The immersion rate is defined as the weight required to sink the boat a certain level. The immersion rate for S2 6.7 is about 93 kg/cm, alternatively 521 lbs/inch. Meaning: if you load 93 kg cargo on the boat then it will sink 1 cm. Alternatively, if you load 521 lbs cargo on the boat it will sink 1 inch.
Sailing statistics
This section is statistical comparison with similar boats of the same category. The basis of the following statistical computations is our unique database with more than 26,000 different boat types and 350,000 data points.
What is L/B (Length Beam Ratio)?
Maintenance
When buying anti-fouling bottom paint, it's nice to know how much to buy. The surface of the wet bottom is about 16m 2 (172 ft 2 ). Based on this, your favourite maritime shop can tell you the quantity you need.
Are your sails worn out? You might find your next sail here: Sails for Sale
If you need to renew parts of your running rig and is not quite sure of the dimensions, you may find the estimates computed below useful.
| Usage | Length | Diameter | ||
| Mainsail halyard | 21.1 m | (69.2 feet) | 8 mm | (5/16 inch) |
| Jib/genoa halyard | 21.1 m | (69.2 feet) | 8 mm | (5/16 inch) |
| Spinnaker halyard | 21.1 m | (69.2 feet) | 8 mm | (5/16 inch) |
| Jib sheet | 6.7 m | (22.0 feet) | 10 mm | (3/8 inch) |
| Genoa sheet | 6.7 m | (22.0 feet) | 10 mm | (3/8 inch) |
| Mainsheet | 16.8 m | (55.0 feet) | 10 mm | (3/8 inch) |
| Spinnaker sheet | 14.8 m | (48.4 feet) | 10 mm | (3/8 inch) |
| Cunningham | 3.1 m | (10.3 feet) | 8 mm | (5/16 inch) |
| Kickingstrap | 6.3 m | (20.6 feet) | 8 mm | (5/16 inch) |
| Clew-outhaul | 6.3 m | (20.6 feet) | 8 mm | (5/16 inch) |
This section is reserved boat owner's modifications, improvements, etc. Here you might find (or contribute with) inspiration for your boat.
Do you have changes/improvements you would like to share? Upload a photo and describe what you have done.
We are always looking for new photos. If you can contribute with photos for S2 6.7 it would be a great help.
If you have any comments to the review, improvement suggestions, or the like, feel free to contact us . Criticism helps us to improve.
| S2 Grand Slam 6.7
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COMMENTS
Designed to determine if a boat has blue water capability. The CSF compares beam with displacement since excess beam contributes to capsize and heavy displacement reduces capsize vulnerability. The boat is better suited for ocean passages (vs coastal cruising) if the result of the calculation is 2.0 or less.
The S2 6.7 Grand Slam is an American trailerable sailboat that was designed by Don Wennersten as a racer-cruiser and first built in 1980. The designation indicates the approximate length overall in meters.
S2 6.7 is a 22′ 0″ / 6.7 m monohull sailboat designed by Don Wennersten and built by S2 Yachts between 1980 and 1983.
The manual I have found online and the information that came with the boat does not say much about how to keep the systems unique to this boat working properly. Specifically I would like to know what I should do with the lifting keel to ensure that I am always able to lift it.
The 6.7 came first and then the 7.9 was launched. The 7.9 was such a big success they modified the 6.7 to look more like the 7.9. The 6.7 & 6.9 have the same hull but the deck, rig and keel were modified. I really liked the 6.9, it was a good sailing boat and a lot of fun.
Specifications and Review of S2 6.7 based on the boat's specifications and artificial intelligense.
S2 6.7 Sailboat pictures, a collection of S2 6.7 sailboats with specifications and photos.
The high aspect-ratio foretriangle is especially good for jib reaches and upwind (particularly so in conjunction with 150% Genoa)while the large low aspect-ratio mainsail is easy to adjust for a wide range of wind speeds. The mast is 26 feet tall." 1980 S2 6.7 ..........$ 3,600.
S2 6.7, 1981. Sailboat on trailer. The 6.7 was one of the three "Grand Slam" models built by S2 Yachts. The "Grand Slam" boats (in 5.5, 6.7 and 7.9 meter lengths) were targeted toward sailors who wanted a trailerable boat with good manners and good performance.
S2 Yachts (USA) The company, located in Holland, Michigan, USA, was founded by boating industry legend, Leon Slikkers, after he had sold his powerboat company, Slickcraft. As part of the sales agreement, he was precluded from the powerboat market for a number of years.