iwc yacht club chronograph rose gold

Gentleman Sailor: Testing the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph

IWC launched the Portugieser Yacht Club in 2010 into the sporty yet elegant world of sailing. For 2020, the nautical chronograph model has a classic look and a steel bracelet upgrade. We give it a thorough review in this feature from the WatchTime archives.

The new IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph is a watch you can wear with confidence anywhere at the marina. A first glance shows that the third generation of the sportiest Portugieser model, our test watch, is designed to be both a nautical timepiece and a luxury accessory. The first impression is confirmed upon closer inspection of its polished and satin-finish case, sunburst blue dial and brightly polished hands. Every component is flawlessly finished and worthy to be part of the supremely elegant Portugieser collection.

For the first time in its 10-plus-year history, this Portugieser Yacht Club boasts a steel bracelet rather than a rubber or leather strap — a sturdy but elegant IWC steel bracelet with brushed outer links and polished inner links. Shortening the bracelet involves simply pressing a button on the back of each row of sturdy links to remove it. Unlike simpler bracelet designs, using screws or hammering is not needed.

Inside the safety folding clasp, there is also a quick extension piece that quickly and easily lengthens the bracelet by up to 7 mm. Pressing the polished “IWC” button on the outer bar of the clasp extends the bracelet in seven increments — without ever removing the watch from your wrist. Two safety buttons round out the sturdy and well-designed folding clasp.

Detailed Modifications In addition to the bracelet, the dial has also been updated. The central chronograph hand is now steel-gray instead of red, and the date window has been shifted from the 3 o’clock position to the small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. Both changes enhance the elegance of the Yacht Club and were well received by our editorial staff.

The elegant impression is diminished, however, by the enlargement of the already considerable stainless-steel case from 43.5 mm to 44.6 mm. Our editorial staff admitted that no one among them had a wrist to match its substantial dimensions.

Even so, the large, heavy watch is quite comfortable to wear thanks to ergonomically shaped sloping lugs and a supple steel bracelet. Unfortunately, the flexibility and adjustability of the IWC’s bracelet results in relatively large gaps between the links, which can catch and pull hair.

Proven Technology Components taken from earlier generations of the Yacht Club include the sturdy and powerful in-house movement, Caliber 89361, with many excellent features like a 68-hour power reserve; a traditional column-wheel control mechanism; the brand’s own exceptionally efficient Pellaton dual-pawl winding system; a free-sprung, temperature-resistant Glucydur balance wheel; and a flyback function for the direct restarting of the running chronograph. It can also show off beautiful decorative finishes, gold-enhanced engraving and a gold IWC medallion on the skeletonized oscillating rotor. Another feature of the in-house movement is the combined 12-hour and 60-minute counter in the upper half of the dial, which is intended to show elapsed time intuitively, as on a clock. The combined counter is too small for everyday use, however, and its markings are too fine to read elapsed time to the minute quickly and easily. The chronograph seconds track around the dial is also extremely fine, and the central chronograph seconds hand is insufficiently long to fully reach it. In sum, it’s a mixed bag, with clearly legible time and date, and elapsed time that is much more difficult to read.

Accurate Rate Our rate test revealed more about the Swiss movement. The electronic timing machine showed a negligibly small daily rate of +0.8 seconds, a maximum deviation between the positions of only 4 seconds and almost the same values when the chronograph is engaged. A two-week wearing test confirmed the small daily deviation with values between zero and +2 seconds — making our test watch a reliable partner for everyday use.

In addition to the movement, another feature of the Yacht Club that hasn’t changed arouses mixed feelings — the pressure resistance of six bar that corresponds to water pressure at a depth of 60 meters. Although this may sound like a lot at first, the water resistance as it is tested under laboratory conditions is rather low for a nautical luxury sports watch linked to the world of sailing. Coming in contact with spray or waves means a watch should be resistant to at least 10 bar or 100 meters to ensure a certain degree of security in a variety of different environments. And even though this still isn’t a lot, it is the current standard for any water sports watch not explicitly designed for diving.

Advice for boat owners is simply this: it’s better to wear this watch in the evening, below deck, or to dinner at the marina, and either take it easy onboard during the day or rely on a sports watch that is clearly defined as such. The new Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph is well equipped for normal everyday wear and light sports activities — and is the perfect gentleman sailor for social events on or below deck.

SPECS: Manufacturer: IWC Schaffhausen, Baumgartenstrasse 15, 8201 Schaffhausen, Switzerland Reference number: IW390701 Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, flyback chronograph with combined 60-minute and 12-hour counter, date Movement: In-house Caliber 89361, automatic, 28,800 vph, 38 jewels, hack mechanism, quick date adjustment, Incabloc shock absorber, column wheel, fine regulator with screw weights, Glucydur balance, 68-hour power reserve, diameter = 30 mm, height = 7.5 mm Case: Stainless steel, domed sapphire crystal with anti-glare coating on both sides, screw-down crown, threaded caseback with sapphire crystal viewing window, water resistant to 60 m Bracelet and cla­­sp: Stainless-steel bracelet with safety folding clasp and quick extension Rate results (deviation in seconds per 24 hours, with chronograph switched off/on): Dial up 0 / +1 Dial down +3 / +2 Crown up -1 / -2 Crown down +2 / +2 Crown left +2 / +3 Crown right -1 / -3 Greatest deviation 4 / 6 Average deviation +0.8 / +0.5 Average amplitude: Flat positions 287° / 273° Hanging positions 257° / 236° Dimensions: Diameter = 44.6 mm, height = 14.3 mm, weight = 170 grams Variations: With silver dial (Ref. IW390702, $13,100); with stainless-steel and rose-gold case and bracelet (Ref. IW390703, $19,900) Price: $13,100

SCORES: Strap and clasp (max. 10 points): Very attractive, highly functional stainless-steel bracelet with safety folding clasp and quick extension. Large gaps between links. 9 ­­­ Operation (5): Generously sized, smoothly operating pushers are easier to use than the screw-down crown. The large crown is easy to turn but needs some force to pull out. The chronograph has a flyback function for direct restart of an ongoing timing sequence. 4 Case (10): The case is beautifully finished but is rather simple and water resistant to only 60 meters. 8 Design (15): Attractive combination of sportiness and elegance. The superior quality of every component is easily apparent. 14 Legibility (5): The time and date are both easy to read, but elapsed time presents more difficulty. Bright luminous material. 4 Wearing comfort (10): The heavy watch lies comfortably on the wrist, but the metal bracelet catches fine wrist hair. 7 Movement (20): The in-house caliber stands out with its column wheel, Glucydur balance, fine regulation, extended power reserve, efficient dual-pawl winding mechanism and attractive decorations. 17 Rate results (10): The watch can boast absolute reliability with an average daily gain of 0.8 seconds and a maximum deviation between the positions of 4 seconds. Individual values are similar even when the chronograph is engaged. 9 Overall value (15): IWC has created a luxury chronograph at a high price, but it has a lot to offer. 11 Total: 83 POINTS

Thank you for the review

I, along with many people like a larger diameter watch. I have a wrist size that is 8 inches. Anything smaller than 42-43 mm looks small to me. I think this watch is a beauty.

Beautiful execution of details. Good to see that IWC decided to upgrade the Portugieser from quasigirly watch to man-sized. It’s hardly an Arni watch though.

I would buy this watch in a second (no pun intended) except for the high price. As for the increased diameter, I have a large wrist and do not buy watches less than 43 mm. Smaller diameters look terrible on me. If you need a large diameter watch reviewer, let me know. Thanks.

Two big problems for me. The size (too big), very few people have wrist size like Arni, water tightness 60m is a joke.

I really like this IWC watch, however, it’s shallow water resistance at the price, is a non-starter. IWC is certainly capable of increasing the water resistance range.

I always enjoy my Watchtime magazine when it arrives, and the email updates. Regarding IWC’s new Yacht Club, I think it is a beautiful watch. I have a large wrist, so, I will not wear a watch under 43mm. Smaller watches look too small. I do have trouble with the 60 meter water resistance, but find myself looking at this watch over and over in your magazine. That is when I know I want it. Hope to order one in the near future.

I’m veary interested in watches and would love to know more about them. I would like to see , the new modells.

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Hands-on with the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390703

Charlotte Harris

The stainless steel sports watch continues to reign supreme in the realm of horology and for IWC Schaffhausen, their Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph leads the genre in their portfolio. We’re very fortunate that for this week’s hands-on review, we’re getting up close and personal with one of the same; the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph found under reference IW390703. That’s the one with the two-toned steel and 18ct rose gold case, a crisp white dial and full metal bracelet.  

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club 

Original Vintage Highley Genuine Leather Watch Strap - Light Brown

Original vintage highley genuine leather watch strap - reef, original vintage highley genuine leather watch strap - reddish brown.

The story of the IWC Portugieser is one of my favourites. It all began during the 1930’s when two Portuguese businessmen approached IWC with a request for a large, highly accurate wristwatch with the precision of a marine chronometer. In response, IWC introduced the first Portugieser watch in 1939, it boasted a large case and a pocket watch movement with high levels of accuracy. It was a clean, timeless-looking watch with a simple dial, Arabic numerals and slim leaf-shaped hands – characteristics still well-known in today’s Portugieser collection. 

Fast forward to the 1960s, and the demand for yachting and sailing watches was growing so IWC decided to merge the elegance of the Portugieser with the functionality of a nautical timepiece, giving rise to the IWC Yacht Club collection. The Yacht Club models are ultimately the sporty brothers of the dressier Portugieser designs, offering increased water resistance and rubber strap options. 

2020 was a fairly big year for the Portugieser family as the collection was completely singled out by the Swiss watchmaker to be revamped and revitalised. Proportions were reduced ever so slightly, improvements were made to the glass and more importantly, almost the entirety of the collection now utilised in-house movements, further increasing the value propositions of these watches.  

These updates also included those in the Yacht Club line-up and one of the first models to be launched as part of the updated series was reference IW390703, the very model we’re getting hands-on with today. 

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390703 

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronographs are the biggest models in the Portugieser family, which makes sense since these are designed to be robust, water resistant sports watches after all. That said, the dimensions do feel a little outdated and this was my initial reaction when I tried on the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390703 for myself. 

I’m not someone who can pull off a watch larger than 42mm, but even so, the 44.6mm width of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph feels big even for a sports watch. These days, people seem to be opting for slightly smaller watches between the 36mm and 42mm mark. That said, this is a watch that packs a punch in its visuals and the sizing assists with that – especially its tall 53.5mm lug-to-lug size. 

While tall and wide, something that did surprise me about the case was the height. It appears slimmer than the 14.3mm dimensions marked on the watch’s specifications. The downturned, tear-drop shaped lugs help with this as does the finishing used on the stainless steel components. In this instance, the case sides and steel bracelet links are brushed while the top side of the lugs, 18ct rose gold bezel, crown guards, and rose gold bracelet links are polished. 

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390703 watch lives up to its name as a nautical companion and offers a 100 metre water resistant rating assisted by a screw down crown with integrated pushers. On either side of the crown, two classically shaped piston chronograph pushers allow you to manipulate the complication on display. There’s also sapphire crystal glass on the top and back.  

The dial of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390703 watch is really nicely executed. Despite displaying a whole lot of functionality, it still manages to keep things clean and tidy. The display is white and set with raised, 18ct rose gold Arabic numerals each paired with their own slightly luminescent index. To match, the leaf-shaped central hands for the hours and minutes are luminous and sit beside a slim chronograph seconds hand in 18ct rose gold. 

The display also presents a 60 minute track around the periphery which leads down to the Portugieser’s traditional printed railroad track in black. To match, black printing is used on the scales for the small seconds, joined by a bright red hand and integrated date window, and the clever 12 o’clock counter for both the chronograph’s minutes and hours. It is ingenious integrations like this that helps to keep the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph looking so tidy. 

Fuelling the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390703 watch is the in-house 89361 automatic winding movement. This is where more of the updates for the Portugieser can be found. It comes with a four pawl, rather than a two pawl, Pellaton winding system and arrives with a 68 hour power reserve when fully wound. There are also 38 jewels, a frequency of 28,800vph and some very attractive Côtes de Genève decoration visible through the case back.  

Before today, I always thought of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club as sporty and nautical, as it should be with a name like that. So, when reference IW390703 arrived on, I was surprised at just how dressy it wore. We all know a strap can change the look of a watch dramatically, and that’s definitely the case here. The two-toned stainless steel and 18ct rose gold bracelet makes this watch feel flashy and luxurious. 

Don’t let that put you off though. The addition of the bracelet allows this model to be an almost perfect blend of some of IWC’s more aggressive sports watches and their more stereotypically sophisticated dress watches. Plus, if you do prefer a more casual, laid-back look, you could easily swap out this bracelet for one of rubber or textile. 

Conclusion  

There have been several occasions in my career where I have had to pinch myself to remind myself my job is real. Being sent an IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph to review, one in 18ct rose gold with full two-toned bracelet, was one of these occasions. I’ve not had much hands-on time with IWC before, so this was a real treat.  

It’s a beautiful watch with incredible finishing and a top-end movement to match. Reference IW390703 is definitely the dressiest model out of the current line-up, but it’s a wonderful example of sports elegance and I have no doubt it will suit those with a love of large, flashy watches. While it might not be one to recommend to newbies in the watch collecting world, or those with smaller wrists, it’s certainly one deserving of many collector’s bucket lists. 

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390703 is part of the Swiss watchmaker’s permanent collection and is available for £17,800. 

Technical Specifications: 

• Brand: IWC Schaffhausen 
• Model: Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390703  
• Price: £17,800 
• Material: Stainless steel & 18ct rose gold 
• Movement: In-house calibre 89361 automatic winding 
• Complications: Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph seconds, minutes and hours 
• Dial: White with 18ct rose gold hands and numerals 
• Size: 44.6mm wide, 14.3mm tall 
• Strap: Two-toned bracelet 
• Water Resistance: 100 metres 
• Glass: Sapphire crystal  

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Model #: iw390501 IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph 43.5mm Mens Watch

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Learn more about Water Resistance.

• Soldi 18kt rose gold case with fine brushed finished edges & polished finished bezel ring & lugs.
• Silver main dial.
• Slightly recessed silver sub-dials.
• Applied polished rose gold toned Arabic Numeral hour markers.
• Applied polished rose gold toned rimmed index hour markers with luminous fill.
• Fine printed minute track.
• Polished rose gold toned hands, hours & minutes hands with luminous fill.
• Silvered flange at the perimeter of the dial with fine printed seconds & fractions of a second indication for the stopwatch/chronograph.
• Small running seconds sub-dial at the 6 o'clock position.
• Date window displayed at the 3 o'clock position.
• Chronograph/Stopwatch function:
• Large red central seconds counter.
• The sub-dial at the 12 o'clock position doubles as both the chronograph 60 minute counter (longer hand pointing to outer diameter) & the 12 hour counter (short hand pointing to marking on inner diameter), allowing for an easy & instant reading of the stopwatch.
• Features a "Flyback" function, which allows instant restarting of the chronograph with a single push of the button instead of the need to stop, reset & then restart the stop-watch.
• IWC calibre 89361, beats at 28,800 vph, contains 38 jewels & has an approximate power reserve of 68 hours.

Alternate model # iw3905-01, 390501, 3905-01

Mens iwc iw390501 portugieser yacht club chronograph 43.5mm watch.

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IWC Watch Portuguese / Ref. IW390209 45mm, 18k rose gold W526610

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Pre-Owned IWC Mens Watch Details

IWC Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph in 18k rose gold on leather strap with 18k rose gold deployant buckle. Automatic movement under glass w/ subseconds, date and chronograph. Fully factory serviced. 45 mm case size. Ref IW390209. Fine Pre-owned IWC Watch. Certified preowned Sport IWC Portuguese IW390209 watch on a Black Leather strap with a 18k rose gold Deployant buckle. This IWC watch has a 45 x 45 mm case with a Round caseback and Gray Arabic Numeral dial. It is Gray and Sons Certified Authentic and comes backed by our 12-month warranty. Each watch is inspected by our certified in-house Swiss-trained watchmakers before shipment including final servicing, cleaning, and polishing. If you have inquiries about this IWC Portuguese watch please call us toll free at 800-705-1112 and be sure to reference W526610 . Watch is in Excellent condition.

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IWC Schaffhausen

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Past Collections, 2018

Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph

Stainless steel case, Automatic winding, Diameter 43.5 mm.

Made in Switzerland

Our Concierge will be happy to help you complete your purchase, find out availability in our boutiques or answer any questions

Or send us a message through our online form.  

IW390507 Specifications

• Stainless steel case
• Diameter 43.5 mm
• Height 14.1 mm
• See-through sapphire glass back
• Water resistance 6.0 bar
• 89361 Calibre
• IWC-manufactured movement
• Automatic winding
• 68 hours power reserve
• Frequency 28800.0 VPH (4.0 Hz)
• 299 Components
• Côtes de Genève
• Small hacking seconds
• Sapphire glass, arched-edge, antireflective coating on both sides
• Date display
• Flyback function
• Hour and minute counters combined in a totalizer at 12 o’clock
• Chronograph function with hours, minutes and seconds
• Blue dial with luminescence
• Blue rubber strap
• Strap width 22.0 mm

Official Documents

Make the most out of your IWC watch to make it last longer. Here’s all the useful information for its maintenance.

Care for your IWC Watch

Like any precision mechanical instrument, a watch from IWC Schaffhausen needs regular care and maintenance.

Learn more about your watch and how to maintain it. 

Complete Service

It involves a full overhaul of the timepiece and is a complex, largely manual task that takes several hours.

HOW-TO TIPS

Learn how to clean your watch, wind it and more in our six-part “How To…” video series.

If you can’t find answers to your questions here, please feel free to contact a member of our service staff.

Calibre Family 89000

The 89000-calibre family includes powerful chronograph movements with flyback function, which are used, for example, for the big digital date and month displays.

The latest from the world of IWC Schaffhausen

#IWCBluedial: a design trend from schaffhausen is taking the watch world by storm

About 50 years ago, IWC Schaffhausen created watches with blue dials. In doing so, the watchmaker from north-east Switzerland set off a design trend. Find out more.

IWC Schaffhausen was founded by American watchmaker F.A. Jones in 1868. Learn more about the history of IWC's Swiss men's and women's luxury watches.

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Crash of a Tupolev TU-154B-1 in Omsk: 178 killed

• Assistance Call Us 800.348.3332 Schedule a Store Visit Email Us Tracking Information Returns & Exchanges Shipping & Delivery Bucherer 1888 Credit Card

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• Certified Pre-Owned
• Pre-Owned IWC Schaffhausen
• Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Rose Gold and Stainless Steel Automatic

• Mint - Mint condition
• Excellent - Like new – may have slight surface scratches
• Very Good - May have any of the following: light scratches; slightly stretched bracelet; patina on dial, hands, or bezel
• Circa 2020s
• Gender Men's
• Case Size 45 mm diameter
• Movement Automatic
• Features Date, Fly back Chronograph, Second Hand
• Strap/Bracelet Material Steel/Rose Gold
• Item Number IWC6600563
• Manufacturer Reference # IW390703
• Case Shape: Round
• Case Thickness 15 mm
• Crystal Sapphire
• Dial Color Silver Gray
• Dial Markers Arabic
• Water Resistance 60 meters
• Strap/Bracelet Bracelet

Pre-Owned IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Rose Gold and Stainless Steel Automatic

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• free 2-day shipping and returns. please see details below.
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Description & Details

Product Details

Shipping & returns shipping & returns.

We are experiencing delays in preparing and processing orders from our fulfillment locations. Our Customer Service team will proactively reach out to you with an update on the shipping and handling of your order. We apologize for any inconvenience this may cause. Should you have any questions about our updated shipping process, please do not hesitate to contact us at 800-348-3332 and select option 3 to be connected with a Customer Service Representative. You may also reach us via email at [email protected].

SHIPPING UPDATE

We have resumed standard shipping (please allow up to 5 business days for delivery). Our Customer Service team will proactively reach out to you with an update on the shipping and handling of your order. Should you have any questions about our updated shipping process, please do not hesitate to contact us at 800-348-3332 and select option 3 to be connected with a Customer Service Representative. You may also reach us via email at [email protected].

SHIPPING TIMES AND RATES

Complimentary 2–Day shipping is applicable for all online orders. Please allow 1–2 business days (Monday–Friday) for the preparation and shipment of your order. The shipping (in-transit) time for your order will begin once a tracking number has been generated and will depend on the shipping method selected at checkout. Orders are shipped/delivered Monday - Friday (observed holidays and weekends are excluded).

Same-day Shipping: For select items only , same-day shipping is offered on orders placed Monday - Friday by 2:00 pm, ET. Items eligible for same-day shipping are noted accordingly on the product page. In-transit shipping times will depend on the service level selected at checkout and may be impacted by shipping carrier delays.

Click here for more information on shipping.

RETURNING ONLINE PURCHASES: TOURNEAU.COM & SHOP-AT-HOME

For all purchases made online at Tourneau.com or Shop-at-Home, Tourneau will provide an exchange or refund within 14 days of delivery , provided merchandise has not been worn, altered, or special-ordered. All claims, returns, battery replacement, or warranty service must be accompanied by your invoice, original watch box and warranty materials. Shipping costs will not be refunded.

Click here for more information on returns.

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Timepiece Protection Plan Timepiece Protection Plan

What does the timepiece protection plan cover *.

• Water Damage
• Full Component Coverage
• Broken or Scratched Crystal
• Lost & Damaged Diamonds & Gemstones
• Normal Wear & Tear Damage
• Mechanical or Structural Failure
• Parts & Labor for Covered Repairs

All covered repairs are fully included with the Timepiece Protection Plan, and we will replace any watch that cannot be repaired.

See Terms & Conditions

Bucherer 1888 Credit Card

Authenticated

Fully serviced, 2-year warranty.

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Omsk: Western Siberia's hidden gem

A city view of Omsk. Source: Dmitry Feoktistov

Omsk was founded in 1716 when a wooden fort was constructed to house a Cossack unit in the area to protect the expanding Russian frontier from Central Asian nomadic incursions. It served various administrative functions throughout the 1800s and became infamous as a place of exile and incarceration. The city was rundown when selected as a hub for the Trans-Siberian railway in the 1890s. Many international trade companies and foreign consulates relocated here and the remnants of their offices can still be found in the city today.

The mystery of Kolchak’s gold

Omsk became the headquarters of the anti-Bolshevik white army led by Admiral Aleksandr Kolchak in 1918. In late 1918 there was a revolt in the city initiated by a leftist faction (Socialist Revolutionary Party or SPs) with 500 rebel deaths at the hands of Cossacks and Czechoslovak soldiers, a major factor in convincing the SPs to join the Bolsheviks. There is a large Soviet-era monument to the uprising at the corner of Lenina street and Broz Tito street.  

Kolchak was entrusted with a large portion of the Tsarist’s gold reserves, yet amazingly lost much of it. Supposedly 250 million rubles were lost (about $8 million at the time). Legend has it that they were buried near the village of Taiga, yet numerous excavations have turned up nothing. The area still attracts the occasional fortune seeker.

Kolchak’s headquarters are located at what is today the  Omsk Regional Archives  at Broz Tito St., 3. Nothing shows how much times have changed as the imposing Kolchak statue that was unveiled in 2012 around the corner. The statue guards  Kolchak restaurant , a four-story culinary complex featuring a steak house, an Irish pub, a Central Asian café and an Italian eatery.  For more details on where and how to dig Kolchak's gold, see  Top Ten Mysterious Lost Treasures of Russia

Dostoevsky and the Tsar

At 1.15 million people Omsk dwarfs the region’s second largest city, Tara (population 28,000). The city is split by the River Irtysh into two sections (all places of interest are on the right bank) with downtown emanating from the River Om.

Most foreigners have heard of Omsk via writer Fyodor Dostoevsky who spent four years here as a prisoner (1849-1853). He spent most of his time in Omsk in squalor and chains and with no books besides the Bible, however, it left an indelible mark on his memory and influenced his future literary output. There is a statue of the writer in chains grasping a Bible at the corner of Partizanskaya and Spartakovskaya streets, where Dostoevsky undoubtedly stepped many times. A  museum dedicated to the author's time in Omsk  is located nearby at Dostoevskogo St. 1. The local university is also named for him.

A view of the Assumption Cathedral, Omsk. Source: Lori/Legion-Media

Tarskaya Street is one of the city’s oldest thoroughfares. It features a monument to victims of Stalinist repressions and the Tara gates, originally built in 1792 as one of the four entrances to the Omsk fort. Nearby stands the Assumption Cathedral, one of the largest churches in Siberia. Future Tsar Nicholas II laid the first stone here in 1891 when making his way back to St. Petersburg after his Eastern journey.

In Omsk you are never more than a few steps from the village, made clear when one exits the center to the north, where most houses are wooden and roads unpaved. Stroll along Bulatova and Rabinovicha streets, a well-preserved ensemble of wooden architecture.

Omsk’s cultural heritage 

The Pushkin State Library is worth a look with busts of Russian literary figures adorning the front side of the building. At the corner under the big “M” is one of several stations of the never completed Omsk metro. Construction began in 1992, but as of 2014 the project is again dormant due to financing problems.

One of Omsk’s most famous sons is Symbolist painter Mikhail Vrubel (1856-1910). Vrubel ignored contemporary trends and focused on themes from fairy tales, demons and religious subjects and also designed a majolica frieze for the Metropol Hotel in Moscow. Omsk’s Fine Arts Museum is named for him and features a number of  his works .

Milhail Vrubel's painting 'Demon Seated in a Garden' (1890)

Over the years a number of tourists have tripped over the monument to Stepanych. This bust of a plumber rising from a sewer was the idea of Omsk’s former mayor after a trip to Slovakia in the 1990s. Stepanych has become one of the symbols of the city.

Omsk is a hockey town, with one of the major teams,  Avangard , in the KHL, Russia’s premiere professional league. Russian champions on several occasions, check out a match at Omsk Arena. But if you can’t catch a game there’s a large kiosk featuring the team’s merchandise at the airport.

Siberian   punk, jazz and the classics

While Omsk may not be on everyone’s radar musically, it does host a  musical theater  built just after the war. The building on 10 Let Oktyabrya Street is in the form of an enormous sloping grand piano.

A monument to Stepanych, Lenina Street, Omsk. Photo credit: RIA Novosti/Pavel Lisitsyn 

Perhaps Russia’s most famous punk band,  Grazhdanskaya oborona  (Civil Defence), was formed here in 1982. The band was active until 2008 when lead singer Yegor Letov died of heart failure at age 43. Letov is buried at the Staro-Vostochnoe cemetery. A sprawling graveyard with thousands of graves, fans should stop at the administration for help in locating his grave.

In Russia, Omsk is known among the younger, tech-savvy generation primarily because of the “Omsk bird,” also known as Winged Doom. The origin of what became one of Russia’s most ubiquitous memes comes from a painting by German artist Heiko  Müller. One day in 2009 an Internet user posted this painting with the line, “Welcome to Omsk,” at the top. Additional versions menace viewers stating, “Don't try to leave Omsk,” and “Omsk is closer than you think.” Like many popular memes on the Internet, this one went viral and has become something like an unofficial symbol of the city.

All rights reserved by Rossiyskaya Gazeta.

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