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Using an Anchor Ball

  • By Kevin Falvey
  • June 20, 2012

Anchor Ball diagram

Having a windlass beats weighing anchor with your back by a measured mile. Yet a windlass costs some bucks, and not all boats have the space to fit one. Also, the slow drop of a power-out windlass makes it difficult to anchor precisely, compared with the speed with which a free-dropped anchor hits the bottom. Add learning new techniques and having a backup plan should the windlass break, and you’ve got the impetus for this instructional on using an anchor ball.

What Is It?

An anchor ball is a round fender with enough buoyancy to support a rode and anchor. A 20-inch-diameter ball has approximately 180 pounds of buoyancy and is the most popular size used by seasoned skippers. To this ball, it’s common to affix a three-foot trace of line (but see tip later). At the other end of the trace, attach a large carabiner snap. To this snap, connect a specialized piece of equipment called an anchor ring.

Using an anchor ball is like heaving a line over a tree branch and connecting one end to a truck’s hitch in order to raise a heavy weight at the other end. Since limbs are rare on the water, run the rode through the ring, which is supported by the buoyancy of the ball. The boat is the truck, the ring and ball the limb.

The Practice

To haul anchor, place the anchor ring around the rode and snap the line to it. The snap connects the ball and also “closes” the ring, capturing the rode. Now power toward the anchor, angling off just a bit so you’re not quite running parallel to the rode. (1) A good, fast troll that provides confident steerage is fine.

You pass the anchor, which of course is on the bottom, and continue until the ball, with the rode captured in the ring, slides by the boat. Needless to say, you have to be careful not to run over the rode and foul the props. Here’s a tip I use to avoid that: Snap the ring tight to the ball instead of using the three-foot line. With a long trace, the rode is three feet below the surface. But with a short trace, the ring is only a foot down, and so the rode is closer to the surface and above the level of most props.

Also, at this point I would have a crew member standing by to grab the rode as the ball passes by, bring it aboard and belay it to a stern cleat. With the rode tied at the stern, and you moving the boat forward, the chance for tangles are virtually eliminated.

Note that if you are solo, or don’t have solid crew aboard, you can leave the rode secured at the bow and continue heading forward. In that case, extra care is required on your part to avoid fouling the rode.

Crew or not, as you continue forward, the ball will descend the rode, and submerge as the anchor breaks free. The combination of the ball’s bouyancy and the boat’s pull lifts and yanks the anchor out backward, and the anchor surfaces with great commotion in the wake, with the flukes neatly hanging in the ring. Now all you do is haul in the virtually weightless ground tackle, or back up toward it if you like. (2)

As with any technique, it’s prudent to practice in clear, open water a few times before doing it for real. It’s easy as pie once you try.

The U.S. Coast Guard is asking all boat owners and operators to help reduce fatalities, injuries, property damage, and associated healthcare costs related to recreational boating accidents by taking personal responsibility for their own safety and the safety of their passengers. Essential steps include: wearing a life jacket at all times and requiring passengers to do the same; never boating under the influence (BUI); successfully completing a boating safety course; and getting a Vessel Safety Check (VSC) annually from local U.S. Coast Guard Auxiliary, United States Power Squadrons(r), or your state boating agency’s Vessel Examiners. The U.S. Coast Guard reminds all boaters to “Boat Responsibly!” For more tips on boating safety, visit www.uscgboating.org .

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Boating Magazine Logo

Using an Anchor Ball

  • By Kevin Falvey
  • Updated: November 10, 2010

sailboat anchor ball

Having a windlass beats weighing anchor with your back by a measured mile. Yet a windlass costs some bucks, and not all boats have the space to fit one. Also, the slow drop of a power-out windlass makes it difficult to anchor precisely, compared with the speed with which a free-dropped anchor hits the bottom. Add learning new techniques and having a backup plan should the windlass break, and you’ve got the impetus for this instructional on using an anchor ball.

What Is It? An anchor ball is a round fender with enough buoyancy to support a rode and anchor. A 20-inch-diameter ball has approximately 180 pounds of buoyancy and is the most popular size used by seasoned skippers. To this ball, it’s common to affix a three-foot trace of line (but see tip later). At the other end of the trace, attach a large carabiner snap. To this snap, connect a specialized piece of equipment called an anchor ring.

The Theory Using an anchor ball is like heaving a line over a tree branch and connecting one end to a truck’s hitch in order to raise a heavy weight at the other end. Since limbs are rare on the water, run the rode through the ring, which is supported by the buoyancy of the ball. The boat is the truck, the ring and ball the limb.

The Practice To haul anchor, place the anchor ring around the rode and snap the line to it. The snap connects the ball and also “closes” the ring, capturing the rode. Now power toward the anchor, angling off just a bit so you’re not quite running parallel to the rode. (1) A good, fast troll that provides confident steerage is fine.

You pass the anchor, which of course is on the bottom, and continue until the ball, with the rode captured in the ring, slides by the boat. Needless to say, you have to be careful not to run over the rode and foul the props. Here’s a tip I use to avoid that: Snap the ring tight to the ball instead of using the three-foot line. With a long trace, the rode is three feet below the surface. But with a short trace, the ring is only a foot down, and so the rode is closer to the surface and above the level of most props.

Also, at this point I would have a crew member standing by to grab the rode as the ball passes by, bring it aboard and belay it to a stern cleat. With the rode tied at the stern, and you moving the boat forward, the chance for tangles are virtually eliminated.

Note that if you are solo, or don’t have solid crew aboard, you can leave the rode secured at the bow and continue heading forward. In that case, extra care is required on your part to avoid fouling the rode.

Crew or not, as you continue forward, the ball will descend the rode, and submerge as the anchor breaks free. The combination of the ball’s bouyancy and the boat’s pull lifts and yanks the anchor out backward, and the anchor surfaces with great commotion in the wake, with the flukes neatly hanging in the ring. Now all you do is haul in the virtually weightless ground tackle, or back up toward it if you like. (2)

As with any technique, it’s prudent to practice in clear, open water a few times before doing it for real. It’s easy as pie once you try.

  • More: anchoring , How-To , Seamanship

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Anchoring Made Easy: A Newbie’s Guide to Securing Your Sailboat

sailboat anchor ball

What is anchoring?

Anchoring is a fundamental aspect of boating that involves securing your sailboat in a specific location using an anchor and chain.

When you anchor your sailboat, you are essentially creating a stable and secure position for your boat, regardless of the wind or current.

Table of Contents

Can you anchor a sailboat anywhere?

No, you can’t anchor just anywhere.

  • First and foremost, you need to be aware of any regulations or restrictions in the area you plan to anchor.

Some harbors, marinas, or waterways have specific rules regarding anchoring, and it’s important to respect these guidelines.

  • In addition, you’ll need to consider the bottom conditions.

Anchoring in rocky or weedy areas can make it difficult for your anchor to dig in and secure your sailboat . Ideally, you’ll want to find a sandy or muddy seabed, as these provide better holding power for anchors .

  • Furthermore, you should avoid anchoring in areas with heavy boat traffic.

Not only can this increase the chances of collisions, but it can also make it difficult for you to safely drop and retrieve your anchor.

Choosing the Right Anchor and Chain Size

The size and weight of your anchor will determine its ability to hold your boat securely in place, while the chain provides additional weight and strength to keep the anchor in position.

So, how do you choose the right anchor and chain size for your sailboat?

  • First, consider the size and weight of your sailboat .

Larger boats require larger anchors and chains to provide adequate holding power.

As a general rule of thumb, it’s recommended to use an anchor that weighs 1 pound for every 2 feet of boat length.

So, if you have a 30-foot sailboat, a 15-pound anchor would be appropriate.

  • Next, think about the type of bottom you’ll be anchoring in.

Different anchor designs work better in different types of seabeds, such as sand, mud, or rocks.

For sandy bottoms, a fluke or plow-style anchor is often recommended, while a grapnel or claw anchor is better suited for rocky bottoms.

Picking the Right Spot to Anchor

Choosing the right spot to anchor your sailboat is essential for a safe and enjoyable experience on the water. Whether you’re planning a short stop or an overnight stay, finding the perfect location can make all the difference.

So, how do you pick the right spot?

  • First, consider the depth of the water.

You’ll want to find a spot with enough depth to accommodate the draft of your sailboat, plus some additional clearance to account for tides or changes in water levels.

Consult nautical charts or use a depth sounder to determine the water depth in the area you plan to anchor.

  • Next, assess the bottom conditions.

Look for a sandy or muddy seabed, as these provide better holding power for anchors.

Avoid areas with rocky or weedy bottoms, as they can make it difficult for your anchor to dig in and secure your sailboat.

  • Consider the surrounding environment as well.

Look for sheltered areas or natural features such as coves or bays that can protect from strong winds or currents . These areas will offer a more comfortable and secure anchorage for your sailboat.

  • How Many Anchors Should You Have For Your Boat?
  • The Power of Anchors: Why You Should Use Them to Keep Your Boat Safe
  • Mooring Made Easy: A Step-by-Step Guide to Picking Up a Mooring for Your Boat
  • How To Dock Your Boat Like A Pro: Stern-In, Bow-In, And Alongside

Preparing Your Sailboat for Anchoring

When preparing your sailboat for anchoring, there are several important things you need to do to ensure a smooth and successful docking experience.

Here are four essential tasks to complete before dropping your anchor :

1. Check your equipment: Before setting sail, make sure you have all the necessary anchoring equipment on board.

This includes an anchor, chain, and any additional gear such as a buoy or buoy line. Inspect your equipment to ensure it is in good condition and free of any damage or wear.

2. Secure loose items: Stow away any loose items on your sailboat that could become a hazard during the anchoring process.

This includes things like ropes , fenders, or loose equipment. Secure these items in designated storage areas or tie them down to prevent them from shifting or falling during anchoring.

3. Clear the deck: Remove any obstructions from your deck that could interfere with the anchoring process.

This includes items like cushions, coolers, or other personal belongings.

Clearing the deck will provide you with a clean and clutter-free area to work in when dropping anchor .

4. Prepare your crew: Brief your crew on their roles and responsibilities during the anchoring process.

Make sure everyone knows where to be and what to do when it’s time to anchor.

Assign specific tasks to each crew member, such as handling the anchor or controlling the helm, to ensure a coordinated and efficient docking experience.

The Step-by-Step Guide to Anchoring Your Sailboat

Follow these instructions, and you’ll be able to safely and effectively anchor your boat in no time.

1. Choose your anchor location

Before you start the process, select a suitable location to drop your anchor . Consider factors such as water depth, bottom conditions, and nearby hazards.

Once you’ve chosen the spot, approach it slowly and stop the boat when you’re in the desired location.

2. Prepare your anchor and chain

Make sure your anchor is ready for deployment. Remove any tangles or knots in the chain and ensure it’s securely attached to the anchor.

Double-check that the anchor is properly stored and accessible for deployment.

3. Determine the amount of anchor chain

Decide how much anchor chain you need to deploy based on the depth of the water.

A general rule of thumb is to use a ratio of 5:1 or 7:1 for the length of the anchor chain to the depth of the water. For example, if the water is 10 feet deep, deploy 50 to 70 feet of chain.

4. Drop the anchor

Carefully lower the anchor over the bow of your boat while paying out the chain.

Use a controlled speed and avoid letting the chain drop too quickly, as this could damage your boat or the anchor.

Make sure the anchor hits the bottom before releasing the chain.

5. Set the anchor

Once the anchor is on the bottom, put the boat in reverse at idle speed to ensure the anchor is firmly embedded.

Give it some time to settle and check that the boat is staying in position. Use a landmark on shore or your GPS to monitor any drifting.

6. Secure the anchor

Once you’re confident that the anchor is set, cleat off the chain or secure it to a bow cleat to prevent any accidental movement or slippage.

Double-check that the anchor is holding by slowly reversing the boat to put some pressure on the anchor.

  • Congratulations! You’ve successfully anchored your sailboat. Remember to monitor your position and the anchor’s holding power throughout your stay. If you need to reposition or adjust the anchor, follow the same steps in reverse order.

How long can you be at anchor for on a sailboat?

In general, you can stay anchored for a few hours or overnight, but it’s important to check local regulations to ensure compliance.

Some areas have time limits for anchoring or require permits for longer stays.

Additionally, you’ll need to consider the weather forecast. If there are strong winds or rough seas expected, it may not be safe to remain anchored for an extended period.

What side of the vessel you should never anchor?

There is actually one side you should avoid at all costs: the bow , or the front of the boat.

Anchoring on the bow can lead to several problems and safety hazards.

Firstly, it can interfere with the boat’s steering and maneuverability, making it difficult to control the vessel in tight spaces or when approaching docks .

Secondly, anchoring on the bow can cause the boat to swing in unpredictable directions, especially when wind or currents change.

This can increase the risk of collision with other boats, docks, or hazards in the water.

To avoid these issues, always anchor your sailboat off the stern, or the back of the boat. This allows for better control and maneuverability, as well as a more stable anchoring experience.

Additionally, anchoring off the stern keeps the bow free for easy boarding and disembarking, making your sailing experience more convenient and enjoyable.

What happens when a sailboat drag anchor?

When a sailboat drags an anchor, it means that the anchor is no longer holding the boat in place.

This can occur for several reasons, such as changing wind or current conditions, a poorly set anchor, or inadequate anchor line length.

As the boat starts to drift, it can potentially collide with other boats, docks, or even run aground.

In this situation, it’s important to act quickly and calmly.

First, assess the immediate surroundings to determine any potential dangers or obstacles.

Then, try to reset the anchor by moving the boat in the opposite direction of the drift and dropping the anchor again.

If this doesn’t work, you may need to find a new anchorage or consider alternative methods, such as using a second anchor or seeking assistance from nearby boaters.

an anchor on a dock

Anchoring & Mooring

With so much investment literally riding on your anchor, your boat's anchoring system is no place to cut corners. your choice of anchor depends on the size and type of your boat, and the weather and anchoring conditions you generally encounter..

Boats with heavy displacements or superstructures that present a great deal of wind resistance need heavier gear. The same is true of cruising yachts that brave a wide variety of conditions and may sometimes have to anchor in open waters.

Although not required by Federal Law, it is recommended you carry one anchor of sufficient size and strength to hold your boat for an extended period, like overnight--or in an emergency situation, such as if you run out of gas. When you are thinking or buying an anchor - BIGGER IS BETTER.

Also, there is safety in numbers. No anchor will work for you in every situation, so if you have space carry two anchors--preferably of different types.Many people choose to carry a small anchor, or "lunch hook", and a larger working or storm anchor. The lunch hook is for use in calm weather and when the crew is monitoring the anchor. Working and storm anchors are useful at times when the crew is asleep or ashore, and during heavy weather, when winds are 30 miles an hour and over.

The general name for all of the equipment you need to anchor your boat is "ground tackle". This includes an anchor, chain, line and connecting elements. The anchor line, including chain, is called the rode.

Playing Hooky

Just as boats come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes, so do anchors. Choosing an anchor is easy, choosing the right one for your boat can be very difficult. Your first task in choosing an anchor is to have an understanding of three things:

  • Your Boat - Your boats' size, weight and design characteristics affect what kind of anchor you will need to use. For instance, a 30 foot 10,000 pound houseboat needs a larger anchor than a 30 foot 6000 pound speedboat.
  • Where You're Going - Where you plan to anchor often dictates what type of anchor you should use. Is the bottom rock, or is it soft mud? If you are not familiar with the area, ask around or look at a local chart.
  • Local Conditions - Anchoring in a calm protected cove can be quite different than anchoring offshore or on a large open bay. And don't forget the weather--high winds, tides and waves can all make anchoring difficult, if not impossible.

a chart on boat lengths and recommended anchor weights

Anchors are rated by "holding power"--which is the ability of an anchor to hold a given weight. Keep in mind that a 10,000 pound boat may only require an anchor with a holding power of a few hundred pounds on a calm day, but may need 1,000 pounds of holding power or more on a stormy day.

Anchor Types

There are several types of anchors and you should choose a style based on the bottom characteristics in the areas you will anchor most often. Then, choose a size based on the size and weight of your boat.

Lightweight or "Danforth" Anchors

a danforth anchor

Lightweight type anchor with two long pivoting "flukes"; designed to reduce clogging with mud and grass; range from 2.5 pounds to nearly 200 pounds, and are generally made of cast galvanized metal, though some models are machined from a light-weight aluminum composite. When dropped, flukes dig the anchor into the bottom and the anchor buries itself and part of the anchor line.

Commonly used on small recreational boats, as they are relatively light weight for the amount of holding power they provide, especially in comparison to other anchors. Best in hard sand or mud, where flukes can easily dig into the bottom.

Not recommended for very soft or loose mud, which can ball up around the flukes; or on rocky bottoms where the flukes cannot penetrate. Also not recommended for grassy bottoms, which the flukes tend to slip off.

Kedge or Navy Anchors

a Kedge or Navy Anchor

A more traditional style anchor with arks, flukes and stock. Good in heavy grass, weeds, rocky bottoms or hard sand where one arm can penetrate a crevice. Not good in mud or loose sand, where flukes can't dig in.

Functions differently than previous anchors as it is not a burying anchor; one arm digs into bottom and one lies exposed. Generally only used by very large ships, as it relies on weight for most of the holding power; not really suitable for recreational use other than for a lunch hook.

Grapnels Anchors

a Grapnels Anchor

Very inexpensive, but not much holding power. Some models are made of bent re-bar, others are made of galvanized metal and have folding flukes. Good for recovering items on the bottom, or for wreck reef anchoring. Commonly used on very small boats such as canoes or jon boats.

Plow or "CQR/DELTA" Anchors

a Plow Anchor

The plow styles' good holding power over a wide variety of bottom types makes it a top choice of cruising boaters. Has either a fixed (Delta style) or a pivoting (CQR) shank.

When dropped in the water, a plow lands on its side, then when pulled, buries itself. Its shape allows it to reset fairly easily should the wind or tide shift the boat position.

Great in sand and on rocky bottoms, weeds and grass. Does not do well in soft bottoms. Generally made of galvanized metal, though they are available in stainless steel.

Claw or "BRUCE" Anchors

a Claw Anchor

Unique shape of the claw allows a 360 degree turn without breaking out. Has similar performance to plow anchors,at a lower weight.

Sets just like a plow, but curved flukes make it easier for a claw to right itself no matter how it lands on the bottom, or how much the boat gets swung around.

Mushroom Anchors

a Mushroom Anchor

Mushroom anchors get their name from, as you might imagine, their rounded, mushroom shape. Mushroom anchors are used extensively for moorings, and can weigh several thousand pounds for this use.

The shape works best in soft bottoms, where it can create a suction that can be difficult to break. Decent for very small boats to use as a lunch hook, but not practical for larger boats. Both Buoys and Beacons may have lights attached, and may have a sound making device such as a gong, bell or horn. Both Buoys and Beacons may be called "marks".

Line and Gear

Depending upon the size and type of your boat, and where you anchor--your choices for an anchor line are either an all-rope anchor rode, a combination of rope and chain, or all chain.

Nylon Line in Three-Strand Twist

a Nylon Line in Three-Strand Twist bundle of rope

Three-strand line can absorb shock and the constant tugging associated with anchoring much better than braided line or chain alone. Chain may also be used, especially in anchorages that are primarily rock or coral, which may cut a nylon line. A length of chain should be used between the anchor and a longer length of line. The chain will add weight to set your anchor without making it too heavy to lift manually, while serving to exert a horizontal pull on the anchor to set it.

Nylon Three-Strand line is the leading choice for use as an anchoring line. Lines generally come in a "soft" or "medium" lie. Soft lines are generally softer to the touch, and loosely woven. These aren't as good as medium or hard lines for anchoring, as they are more prone to unraveling and chafing. Tightly wrapped lines are the best choice for anchoring.

Lines that have been treated with a wax-like coating are available. These lines help the line resist water/salt absorption. To help keep your lines in good shape, clean them from time to time by soaking them in soapy water. Never use bleach, as it can break down the line.

a chain

Chain may be used instead of nylon line for anchoring. Chain has several benefits, including added weight, chafe and wear resistance, and high strength. It also lowers the angle of pull on the anchor, which helps it to set more firn\mly into the bottom.

Chain is generally found made of galvanized steel, though you can find stainless steel and vinyl coated chain, which is designed to be non-marring to your deck.

Chain comes in three general varieties: "Proof Coil" is the most common, and is adequate for most marine uses. "BBB" ("Triple B" or "3B") chain has thicker, shorter links than proof chain. BBB is slightly stronger than proof chain, and is generally used for windlasses. Finally, "Hi-Test" chain is made of hardened steel, and is stronger and lighter than proof coil. Hi-test chain is favored by those wishing to avoid carrying too much weight.

a nylon rope bundle and chains

Combination anchor-rodes consist of both chain and nylon line. You may buy a combination rode, or you may make one yourself. Generally, it is recommended to have either one foot of chain for each foot of boat length, or to have one pound of chain for each pound of anchor length. Which ever method you choose, having more chain than necessary is never a bad idea.

a metal eye

As the saying goes, a chain is only as strong as its' weakest link...Make sure that your anchor and line are attached to each other with adequate gear. Some lines come with plastic thimbles or eyes--but metal, either marine-grade stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized steel, is best. Swivels and shackles should be inspected regularly for wear, and to ensure that the connections are tight and functional.

Scope: Length of the anchor line/ height of the deck cleat to the sea bed.

Before leaving the dock, you will need to determine how much anchor line, or "rode", you will need. It is recommended that you use a scope of 7:1, meaning that for every foot of water depth, you should use 7 feet of rode.

a diagram explaining scope

For example, to anchor in 10 feet of water, you would pay out 70 feet of line. Measure the scope as the ratio of the length of the anchor rode to the height of the bow above the bottom. If you're using a lightweight anchor on a small boat in good weather conditions, a shorter scope of 5:1 is sufficient and safe. A prudent boater always has extra line and chain on hand, just in case.

Minimum Working Rode Sizes

a chart suggesting Minimum Working Rode Sizes

Suggested holding sizes assume fair holding ground, scope of at least 5:1 to 10:1, and moderate shelter from high seas.

Boats that operate generally in shallow waters, as on the East Coast of the United States, may get by with shorter rode lengths. As the wind picks up, deploying additional line will help maintain position, as will tossing out an extra anchor.

Setting Anchor

Anchoring can be accomplished quickly and easily by following a few simple steps.

  • Check your chart for bottom characteristics and to determine that you are anchoring in a safe and allowable place. If there are rocks, shoals, reefs or other boats to consider, give them all as wide a berth as possible. Remember that other boats will often have different requirements for anchor rode length--larger or taller boats frequently need a great deal of rode. Also, keep in mind a possible swing of 360 degrees about the anchor with wind shifts or current changes.
  • If your crew is not already wearing PFDs, have them put one on before going forward to set or retrieve an anchor or mooring.
  • Secure the bitter end of the anchor line to a bow cleat. Make sure the line is ready to run free once tossed overboard.
  • Head into the wind or current. Reduce speed and reverse the engine. When the boat starts to make a slight sternway through the water, lower - do not throw - the anchor.
  • After you've let about a third of your line out, tug the anchor line to see how firmly it's set, and then continue to release the rode.
  • Once you let out an appropriate amount of scope, make sure the line is properly tied off on the bow cleat.
  • Even if anchoring only in designated anchoring areas, it is always prudent to have the appropriate signal such as an all-around white light on to notify other boats that you are anchored at night. During the day you must display a ball shape which is sized according to the size of your boat.

Staying Put

It's a good idea to take two immediate bearings. Select two items, one off each beam, that form a natural range and watch for any changes in their relationship. You can check these later to determine if you're boat is swinging as expected or if you're dragging anchor.

Picking Up a Mooring

One of the best ways to avoid the hassles of anchoring is to chose a cove or harbor with moorings available for your use. Mooring balls are identified by their white spherical or can shape, and having a blue horizontal band. It may have a number designation, a VHF contact # or name on it. You will typically have to pay a small fee to the harbor master to use a public mooring, but you can count on it being far cheaper than paying for dockage for the night.

Public moorings are professionally maintained and will use a large anchor or helix screw fixture to maintain position. The harbor master will let you know if the weight or length of your boat is too big for that particular mooring. Although moorings are typically more secure than anchors, moorings can and do periodically give way. For this reason, and for the obvious courtesy reasons, you should never pick up and use a mooring that does not belong to you.

Common Anchoring Mistakes

  • Letting the anchor go with out securing the line to the boat.
  • Letting the anchor go with your foot wrapped in the anchor line.
  • Poor communication between the captain and person on the foredeck.
  • Approach a mooring from downwind. This will give you better maneuverability as you go to secure your boat to the ball.
  • Go slow, so as not to disturb those already moored.
  • After putting on PFDs, send a crew member to the bow with a boat hook to grab the eye or the base of the mooring ball.
  • Once the mooring ball is at the bow--slow, stop or gently reverse engines to halt forward motion. Use your crew to relay distance information if it is difficult for the skipper to see where the mooring ball is in relation to the boat.
  • Loop the mooring line over one or both of your bow cleats. Pay attention to the possibility of chafing. You may want to use your own line to attach to the mooring ball if the one provided is dirty.
  • Some moorings may have an antenna like device called 'whip.' This is simply an extension of the ball so you don't have to reach as far to haul in the mooring line.
  • Once secure, let the boat drift back and be sure that you are clear of those who have moored or anchored around you. There is no need to 'back down' on a mooring ball.
  • Leaving a mooring is easy--just motor or pull up gently to the ball and release the mooring line from your boat. You can then either drift back or maneuver forward to clear yourself of the ball and the associated ground tackle.

Finally, never ever anchor a small boat by the stern! Your engine, and the bulk of the boat's weight rest here. Stern anchoring is likely to result in swamping and flooding.

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Anchor Selection: A Guide to Types and Sizes

sailboat anchor ball

Anchoring is a crucial aspect of boating, and the right anchor can provide stability, safety and peace of mind for any sailor. Choosing the correct type and size of anchor is essential, as it can greatly impact your overall experience on the water. This guide will outline the various types of anchors available, their ideal uses, and how to choose the right size for your boat.

Understanding the Purpose of Anchors

Anchors serve multiple purposes in boating:

  • Holding power : Anchors are designed to provide holding power by digging into the seabed and creating resistance, preventing the boat from drifting.
  • Temporary mooring : When a boat needs to be stationary for a short period, an anchor is used to secure it in place.
  • Emergencies : Anchors can serve as a safety measure in emergencies by helping to control your boat’s movements in rough weather or if the engine fails.

Types of Anchors

There are several types of anchors to cater for various boating requirements and environments. The primary ones include:

Plow Anchors

Originally designed for large ships, plow anchors resemble a plowshare and offer excellent holding power in most bottom conditions, especially sand and mud. They work by digging into the seabed and maintaining a consistent grip. Plow anchors are popular among cruisers due to their adaptability, and they can handle a variety of wind and current changes.

Danforth Anchors

Also known as fluke anchors, Danforth anchors boast superior holding power in proportion to their weight. They’re characterized by their flat, sharp flukes and long shank that allows them to dig into soft substrates like sand and mud. However, Danforth anchors may struggle with rocky bottoms and can be challenging to set in grassy or weedy seabeds.

Claw Anchors

Claw anchors, also known as Bruce anchors, have three claws that provide holding power in a variety of bottom conditions. Due to their versatile design, they re-set easily when the boat’s position changes and can function with shorter scope, which is the anchor rode (chain or rope) payed out relative to the water’s depth. These factors make claw anchors popular among boaters, though their holding power may be less than that of plow or Danforth anchors.

Mushroom Anchors

Mushroom anchors are useful for small boats in relatively calm conditions. As the name suggests, they’re shaped like a mushroom and utilize their weight to create a suction effect, embedding themselves into soft bottom substrates like silt or mud. However, they generally offer limited holding power in stronger currents or wind.

Choosing the Right Size Anchor for Your Boat

Selecting the appropriate size anchor for your vessel involves considering factors like boat weight, size, and the windage (resistance to wind). Generally, anchor manufacturers offer recommendations based on boat length, but it’s essential to factor in your specific boat’s requirements and typical anchoring conditions.

Anchor Weight

Anchors are typically sized by weight, ranging from a few pounds for small vessels to several hundred pounds for large yachts. The rule of thumb is that the heavier the boat, the heavier the anchor should be. However, it’s important to consider the type of anchor you’re using, as the holding power varies across anchor designs.

Boat Length

Boat length is another crucial aspect to consider when selecting an anchor size. Consult manufacturer guidelines on their recommendations for anchor sizing based on boat length.

Chain and Rode Size

The anchor rode, which connects your boat to the anchor, is critical for holding power. The scope, typically measured in a ratio of the rode’s length to the water’s depth, is an important factor for the anchor’s performance. A common recommendation is using a 4:1 scope for temporary mooring and a 7:1 scope for overnight anchoring. Ensure the chain (the section of the rode closest to the anchor) is of suitable size and strength to prevent it from breaking under strain.

Final Thoughts

When selecting an anchor for your boat, it’s essential to consider the type, size, and the conditions in which you’ll be anchoring. Consult manufacturer guidelines and conduct thorough research on the options available to make an informed decision. A properly sized and suited anchor will offer peace of mind, ensuring your vessel remains securely moored during your adventures on the water.

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15-12-2023, 13:28  
Boat: Cutter-Rigged Moody 54
here in that much time.

I remember when we were discussing balls on here some time ago and several U.S. sailors were swearing up and down that NO ONE EVER uses balls on this side of the Atlantic, in contrast to our side of the pond, where we use them pretty religiously.

Well what do you know -- I'm standing at anchor right now in Bay with only one other in sight and it's -- showing good seamanship, that is, showing an anchor ball. As we are.

It's a beautiful evening, by the way -- who would have thought in the middle of December at this latitude you could sit in the .








15-12-2023, 13:31  
Boat: Chris Craft 381 Catalina
, but we use one religiously. So those displaying the ball in the US may be in the minority, but it's certainly more than zero.  
15-12-2023, 15:28  
Boat: Sundeer 64
15-12-2023, 15:48  
, and the more professional the crew, the more likely the ball is to be used.
15-12-2023, 16:08  
Boat: Colvin, Saugeen Witch (Aluminum), 34'
15-12-2023, 16:26  
Boat: McCurdy & Rhodes Custom 46
fields where they are not special . People ask what it is, or stop by to say hi!
On my 38 footer I never thought about it but now at 13 meters and 40000 pounds I do things much more deliberately.
15-12-2023, 16:35  
Boat: Finnsailer 38
. Anyone who is idiot enough to run over an anchored boat will not be deterred by an anchor ball and wouldn't know what it meant anyway.
"Go small, Go simple, Go now"
15-12-2023, 16:40  
Boat: 1988 Pacific Seacraft 34
15-12-2023, 17:09  
Boat: 50ft Custom Fast Catamaran
Bay with only one other boat in sight and it's -- showing good seamanship, that is, showing an anchor ball. As we are.

It's a beautiful evening, by the way -- who would have thought in the middle of December at this latitude you could sit in the .


15-12-2023, 17:13  
Boat: Com-Pac 27, Com-Pac 23D
(but me…now!) display the “at anchor” day shape where I cruise. It is a requirement as indicated in the previous post. The problem comes if there is a problem. A hit an anchored sailboat in a local area used as an undesignated anchorage. In broad daylight. There were injuries to the operator and passenger and damage to both vessels. The owner of the sailboat was found to have contributed to the “accident” because the proper day shape was not displayed. Sadly, all it takes is an agressive lawyer and no day shape.
15-12-2023, 17:26  
Boat: Sayer 46' Solent rig sloop
. Anyone who is idiot enough to run over an anchored boat will not be deterred by an anchor ball and wouldn't know what it meant anyway.
15-12-2023, 17:34  
Boat: 50ft Custom Fast Catamaran
15-12-2023, 17:48  
Boat: Beneteau 432, C&C Landfall 42, Roberts Offshore 38
15-12-2023, 18:03  
Boat: Sayer 46' Solent rig sloop
15-12-2023, 18:11  
Boat: plastic production boat, suitable for deep blue water ;)


Usuing this site:
30 shows about such ball, copied below:

.
(c). A vessel at anchor may, and a vessel of 100 metres and more in length, shall also use the available working or
equivalent lights to illuminate her decks.

And as Murdoch copied in his post (from annex 1) it gives details of such shapes.

I seem to that boats under 7 meter (~22 ft) are exempt from showing such anchorball, but I can not find info on that.
Here is more info on sizing:


eh..... up to now I never shown an anchorball, have not got one on board.
 
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Anchor ball ... who's got one, and uses it?

sailboat anchor ball

  • Add to quote

So we're having fun with nav lights, reread regs, and realize that a vast majority of Chicago boaters don't know what they're doing. I figure we'll be getting one soon enough and always fly at anchor. Having a nice fat radar reflective item a few feet up can't be a bad thing day or night. How often do you see them used?  

sailboat anchor ball

I used the anchor ball pretty often as well. Not that many boaters know what it means, but in the (charter-boat infested) waters of the BVI I feel confident that the other boat's insurance will cover the damage when I get hit while at anchor.  

sailboat anchor ball

I'd point out that a RADAR REFLECTOR, like the Davis Echomaster Deluxe DOES NOT QUALIFY AS AN ANCHOR BALL. Most anchor ball signals are made of lightweight black plastic and don't reflect RADAR very well. The reason a Davis Echomaster doesn't qualify as a daymark is that it is the wrong color. I'd point out that you really want a radar reflector hoisted most of the time, as a safety precaution, especially if you sail in fog-shrouded waters. You need to have both a RADAR REFLECTOR and an ANCHOR BALL, as they serve two very different purposes. The black plastic anchor daymark is only REQUIRED if you're anchored in a place not designated as an anchorage during the daytime. I find that they are rarely used in inland waters. BTW, if you are sailing and have the anchor ball up and get hit, you may be found partially liable for the accident, since you were flying a signal that was misleading...  

sailingdog said: I'd point out that a RADAR REFLECTOR, like the Davis Echomaster Deluxe DOES NOT QUALIFY AS AN ANCHOR BALL. Most anchor ball signals are made of lightweight black plastic and don't reflect RADAR very well. Click to expand...
sailingdog said: I'd point out that you really want a radar reflector hoisted most of the time, as a safety precaution, especially if you sail in fog-shrouded waters. You need to have both a RADAR REFLECTOR and an ANCHOR BALL, as they serve two very different purposes. Click to expand...

For the US sailors note that most anchorages are not actually "anchorages" in the legal sense which would allow anchoring without showing a day shape or night sign. See The Code of Federal Regulations, Title 33 Navigation and Navigable Watersä, Part 110, Anchorage Regulations (CITE: 33CFR110.1) at U.S. Government Printing Office Home Page or 2009 CFR Title 33, Volume 1 for the list by location. Any other anchorage is not an official one according to the CFR and Colregs, no matter how big it is or how many boats are anchored there.  

sailboat anchor ball

Hello, Here on the east coast (Long Island Sound and surrounding areas) I have NEVER seen an anchor ball. On any summer weekend you will see lots of boats anchored with people fishing, swimming, eating, etc, and you will never see an anchor ball. Around here no one seems to care (me included). The anchor rode coming off the bow is all the indication I need that the vessel is anchored. Barry  

sailboat anchor ball

BarryL said: Hello, Here on the east coast (Long Island Sound and surrounding areas) I have NEVER seen an anchor ball. On any summer weekend you will see lots of boats anchored with people fishing, swimming, eating, etc, and you will never see an anchor ball. Around here no one seems to care (me included). The anchor rode coming off the bow is all the indication I need that the vessel is anchored. Barry Click to expand...

When you run out to get an anchor ball, be sure to pick up a steaming cone. Equally useful.  

RULE 30: ANCHORED VESSELS AND VESSELS AGROUND RULE 31: SEAPLANES ​ Rule 30 (e) A vessel of less than 7 meters in length, when at anchor not in or near a narrow channel, fairway or where other vessels normally navigate, shall not be required to exhibit the shape prescribed in paragraphs (a) and (b) of this Rule. (f) A vessel of less than 12 meters in length, when aground, shall not be required to exhibit the lights or shapes prescribed in subparagraphs (d)(i) and (ii) of this Rule. (g) A vessel of less than 20 meters in length, when at anchor in a special anchorage area designated by the Secretary, shall not be required to exhibit the anchor lights and shapes required by this Rule. [ Inld ] Most recreational boats are not require to use shapes because of their size.  

of LESS THAN 7 meters = LESS THAN 23 FEET How many less than 23 ft. (sail) boats does one see in an anchorage???? ;-)  

sailboat anchor ball

We have and use an anchor ball whenever we anchor outside a "Special Anchorage". They--and steaming cones--can be otained very inexpensively at MariSafe - Boating products and services designed to make you safe, smart and secure  

The Plastimo anchor balls may be fine...and they're certainly inexpensive enough...but the seller's description isn't: "May be used in place of an all-round white light." No it can't! The shapes are for daylight use. Lights are for nighttime or restricted visibility use. They are NOT interchangeable. Bill  

sailboat anchor ball

The steaming cone is only required if a vessel also under sail is over 12 meters in length.  

sailboat anchor ball

Btw: Admirality Charts uses a red line and an Anchor Symbol to label a Designated anchorage, seem to remember some (US?) charts where it was actually labelled with the words also.  

Joms, My original post was in response to post #9 of this thread. Most harbors on the the sound do have a designated anchorage. that was my only point that many places you will not see an anchor ball on boats under 65 feet. yes, they are marked on the chart. Then post 12 said 23 feet, that would be true OUTSIDE an anchorage. It's not an anchorage unless it is marked as such on the chart, the rest is open water.  

sailboat anchor ball

We use our anchoring dayshape routinely.  

Ah, even better link to said playpen. Google Maps  

Welp that's that, WM in district 10 is all out. OTOH at this rate we're not going out tomorrow anyway, Bueller ...... Bueller. *sigh* An interesting previous thread over on CF. Daytime anchor ball - Cruisers & Sailing Forums No, not buying 3 tho. What i'm considering given some time now is back to the combo radar reflector. Find a big 'round' one and paint it black.  

sailboat anchor ball

MiVelero said: I use a black t-shirt to put over our radar reflector It is a ball and black. Click to expand...

The Plastimo anchor ball is just two black plastic circles that slot together and look like a ball in silhouette from any angle. Similarly, the inverted cone is also just two trapezoids slotted together to form a cone shape. With 3 ball shapes, two cones and and two diamonds you can make all of the days shapes required by the colregs (see International Regulations for Preventing Collisions at Sea - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia ) for just a couple of dollars and they fold into a flat forms that fit into a lazarette locker or chart table drawer.  

Thanks Zanshin, it's good to be prepared and legal ... that's a bit of overkill for our purposes. But i can appreciate someone from Germany being, um, exacting. I am a fan of and own 2 BMWs at the moment. *grin* Ripple is only 8.23 and odds are about even she will never be more than 'visual range' of the Chicago skyline. There is an outside chance she may someday visit upper lake Michigan but that's it ..... no crazy ambitious plans of taking this thing to Hawaii. I will be more than happy with a passage across to New Buffalo as our 'ultimate adventure'. Hence under 'inland rules' the motoring day shape isn't required at our length. Anchoring and 'in distress' are. That said we would could easily turn the latter into the former by ...... dropping anchor. It's on the short list of purchases. I do have to admit to appreciating ingenuity like the t-shirt idea. It's free (most murricans own at least one old concert t-shirt, turn it inside out), and in a pinch satisfies the legal requirements. Most importantly, it conveys the pertinent information , which is the whole point. I know some will turn their noses at such a lowbrow jurry rig but if i saw that out on the water i would immediately 'get the point' and steer clear.  

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Essential tips when using an anchor

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  • March 19, 2018

Duncan Wells passes on the benefit of years spent at anchor with his definitive guide to the do's and don't's of dropping the hook

Anchor

Entrusting your boat and the lives of her crew to a piece of metal you can't see can be unnerving Credit: Graham Snook/YM

Avoid a lee shore

Make sure that you are not about to anchor on what is or may become a lee shore, with the wind blowing onto the shore. If your anchor drags and the engine fails to start, you will need enough room to leeward to set the sails and begin to claw your way off the shore. Always anchor on a weather shore, where the wind is coming off the land. Check the forecast to make sure that any wind shift during your stay will not put you on a lee shore.

Check the chart for restrictions

You can anchor anywhere you like, except in a fairway, a channel or a prohibited or restricted area. An anchor sign on the chart marks a popular anchorage. An anchor with a cross through it tells you anchoring is not allowed. Don’t anchor in oyster or mussel beds.

Check the sea bed

Anchor

Sand and gravel: not ideal for anchoring

See what the chart says about the sea bed. Is it suitable for your anchor? Here’s a general guide:

Mud Good for most anchor types , but those with a large surface area will be more reliable

Silt Good for most anchor types

Clay Once set, holding is good for most anchors. An anchor with a sharp tip will set more readily

Sand Variable, depending on sand hardness but an anchor with a large surface area is preferable

Gravel, rock and weed These bottom types are generally unsuitable for anchoring

Check the depth

Will you still be afloat at Low Water? Have you let out enough cable to remain anchored at High Water? Even if you can get this from your GPS, mobile phone, or tablet, I’d still check it with the almanac and the relevant tidal curve. Allow enough under-keel clearance at Low Water.

Care for your ground tackle

Anchor

Attach the bitter end of the anchor chain or warp with a thin line that can be cut easily

Check the condition of your anchor and cable. Is the bitter end lashed to the boat? Never attach it with a shackle. Instead, use a lashing or thin boat rope that you can cut quickly with a knife if you need to lose the anchor and cable in a hurry. The anchor itself should be quickly deployable, attached to the boat by a lashing or a split pin.

Anchor

Attach the anchor to the yacht via a retaining pin or lashing, but ensure that it’s quickly deployable

Is your cable entirely chain, or is it a rope and chain combination? Rope, when we use it for anchoring or mooring, is called warp. In a combination, we always have 10m of chain between the anchor and the warp. You are going to trust your boat and your life to the anchor and the cable, so always check the recommended weight of anchor and gauge of chain or warp for your tonnage of boat. Err on the side of caution.

Measure the scope

Anchor

I use silks tied to the chain in the order of how you’d pot snooker balls (yellow, brown and pink are at the others end of these flakes)

Veering (letting out) the correct amount of cable is key and often where things go wrong. The textbook says, rightly, that you need a minimum of four times the depth for chain and six times depth for warp. In the real world, it’s easy to get confused, but you really have to know how much cable you have out.

There are different systems of marking the cable, but I use silks tied into the chain. They don’t interfere with the chain on the windlass gypsy and if you use warp, you can thread them through a strand or bind coloured cotton around it. Silks are also easier on your hands than plastic cable ties and more durable than painted chain links.

Anchor

With warp, you can thread the silks through a strand or bind coloured cotton around it

Then you need a code. You could run the colours alphabetically, every 5m. I use the order in which one pots snooker balls! No, I don’t play, I just seem to have remembered this. So on my yacht it goes like this: red 5m, yellow 10m, green 15m, brown 20m, blue 25m, pink 30m, black 35m, then double up two red for 40m, two yellow for 45m and so on. Put this code inside the foredeck locker so all the crew know how it works.

Anchor

Display an anchor ball by day to show other vessels you’re not under way

You need to display an anchor ball by day and an all-round white light by night. When I arrive at an anchorage in the dark, I set the anchor ball as well as the light, so I don’t have to get up at dawn.

Watch for swinging

If you’re joining other boats at an anchorage, see how they are lying and try to estimate how much cable they’ve got out (going on height of tide). Then you can allow enough swinging room for changes in the direction of wind and tide. Long-keel boats will lie to the tide more than the wind. Yachts with a short fin keel and high topsides may lie to the wind more than the tide.

Guard against dragging

Use transits ashore, or bearings to marks, or a GPS anchor alarm to check if you are holding. I simply put a hand on the cable outside the bow roller from time to time. If all is quiet, it’s holding.

Use a snubber

Anchor

This snubbing line prevents the chain from snatching and takes strain off the windlass

Attach a length of line, stretchy nylon preferably, to the chain using a rolling hitch, then make the line fast to a cleat and run the chain out until it goes slack and the tension is taken on the line. Apart from taking the pressure off your expensive windlass, this also acts as a snubber.

Anchor

In a swell, put a split pin or lashing across the bow roller to stop the chain jumping out

If there is any swell, put a split pin between the bow roller cheeks or tie a lashing across to stop the cable from jumping out.

If you’re taking care of all of the above, you should be able to relax at anchor. Once I feel I’m well anchored, I’ll sleep right through the night. It can be a good idea to wake in order to watch the boat through the turn of tide, but with experience of your anchor and of different conditions, you’ll be able to gauge how necessary this is.

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This is the original Yanmar 4JH5E 54hp normally aspirated engine supplied by Beneteau. We've done 6,000 hours over the last 13 years. (Photo/ Brett Campbell)

Boat Maintenance for the Technically Illiterate: Part 1

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Whats the Best Way to Restore Clear Plastic Windows?

A V-Guide in use on stainless pulpit railing. V-Guides keep your drill bit from walking off either side of the curved surface. They are a helpful tool in this scenario since stainless requires steady, slow, lubricated pressure to drill properly.

Mastering Precision Drilling: How to Use Drill Guides

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Giving Bugs the Big Goodbye

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Galley Gadgets for the Cruising Sailor

Little things that are hardly necessary but nice to have start in the galley.

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Preparing Yourself for Solo Sailing

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How to Select Crew for a Passage or Delivery

sailboat anchor ball

Preparing A Boat to Sail Solo

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On Watch: This 60-Year-Old Hinckley Pilot 35 is Also a Working…

America's Cup sailboats have progressed from deep-keel monohull J-class Yachts, to regal Twelve Meters, to rambunctious wing-sailed catamarans. The rule now restricts boats to a single hull, but allows retractable, hydraulically actuated foils. Top speeds of 40 knots are common. (Photo/Shutterstock)

On Watch: America’s Cup

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On Watch: All Eyes on Europe Sail Racing

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Dear Readers

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Chafe Protection for Dock Lines

  • Sails, Rigging & Deck Gear

Anchor Trip-line Tricks

Sometimes, reversing the anchor-setting process is the only way out..

sailboat anchor ball

An anchor trip line is a stout line connected from the after end of the anchor fluke to a marker buoy so that the anchor can later be retrieved. The length of the line is adjusted to be straight up and down at high tide level so that the float marks the approximate position of the anchor.

If the anchor snags on a rock or harbor debris, you have a fair chance of pulling it out backwards by hauling on the trip line. Additionally, others can see where you anchor is, estimate how much rode you have out, and stay clear of your rode and berth. In some areas a marker is considered a courtesy. In others, you risk vilification for taking up too much space and creating a fouling hazard for boats passing by. How do we decide whether a anchor buoy is worth the trouble?

First, let’s make it clear that this is a rare practice in most anchorages where cruisers frequent. The risk of serious anchor fouling in most popular anchorages in the United States is remote. Probably the biggest risk any cruiser will face is in big cities and urban areas where junk litters the bottom. The one time my anchor fouled in a popular anchorage it hooked on a shopping cart. The risk of hanging up on bottom trash will increase in areas that have recently suffered a hurricane or severe flooding event. Flooded reservoirs also hold their share of surprises.

Anchor Trip-line Tricks

TRIP LINE DOWNSIDES

There are downsides. Another boat could snag your float, trip your anchor and tangle the two of you together. In slack wind or places with reversing tidal currents, you might float up over the buoy and snag it on your prop or rudder. Some worry that some idiot will tie to it, thinking it is a mooring ball, but this is not likely unless you paint it to look like one. Some sailors argue that using a trip line reduces the number of boats that can fit into a crowded harbor.

There are times, however, when it’s a good idea. You suspect the bottom is foul and it’s too deep, cold, or risky to dive down and free the anchor. It’s a remote area, so the risk of fouling another boat or monopolizing space is moot. Or perhaps you are just learning to set two anchors in a V and could use a visual reference (see “ Doubling Up: Full-size Tandem Anchoring ,” PS September 2016.)

Anchor Trip-line Tricks

1. This deeply buried Rocna anchor bent under side loads.

We’ve used all of these methods. When testing anchors in brown water areas we often rig floats to make it easier to dive on anchors to investigate. We use them in areas littered with submerged trees, and they’ve saved a scary swim a few times. (Free diving around submerged trees and branches in a strong tide is a good way to get trapped and drown.) Rocky areas with tilted slabs are notorious for grabbing anchors. Let’s look at the pluses and minuses of using a trip line, and what works and what doesn’t.

Anchor Trip-line Tricks

RISK OF ENTANGLEMENT

Eventually, you will drift over your buoy. Late arrivals will run over it. Someone will swing over it. Like a crab pot marker, most of the time it will slide by, but sometimes it’s going to catch on the rudder, prop, or keel.

A break-away “fuse” link between the float and trip line can help resolve keel and rudder snags, but the link must be strong enough handle the expected loads before connecting the trip line to your boat for retrieval. About a foot of 40-pound-test fishing line can work. This won’t help with a turning prop, which will started reeling in the “fuse.” And there is always the chance that the fuse won’t break, and the prop (possibly your own) will suck up the retrieval line. Next thing you know, you are dragging across the anchorage with a fouled prop.

Another option is that the floating line can end 5-8 feet below the surface. Entanglement is prevented, and though the line does not reach the surface, but in warm clear waters you can swim down and clip on an extension for retrieval.

When using the sub-surface approach, some skip the float and just use a floating polypropylene line, but if there is any current, it usually pulls the line to the bottom. We’ve tested this and just 0.2 knots will pull polypropylene line close to the bottom.

Obviously, the float used for this sub-surface approach must not have so much buoyancy that it will pull up the anchor. Small net floats will typically have less than 1/2–pound flotation and come in bright colors.

For retrieval, you’ll need to go for a swim, so the water must be clear, the conditions safe, and you’ll want to have a wet suit or dry suit if the water temperature is chilly. This no float approach might be good idea for potential snag areas with clear water and regular boat traffic

HOW BIG A FLOAT?

If the float is too small, you increase the chance another boater will snag it. It should not look like local lobster pot, crab pot marker, or trot line marker. Don’t paint it like mooring ball (white with blue stripe) or pick-up float (often white with red stripe), or someone might tie to it. Labeling it “ Anchor Trip Line ” can’t hurt.

MARKING AN ANCHOR FOR LATER RECOVERY

One reason some people justify using a trip line is to mark the anchor’s location after they’ve cast off their rode to make a hasty departure. For example, if there’s a boat dragging down on you in a sudden squall. We don’t think this is a good reason to routinely use a trip line. If you find yourself in such a situation, you can just tie a big fender to the end of the rode when you cast it off.

Anchor Trip-line Tricks

HOW LONG A TRIP LINE?

Obviously, you need to be able to snag the trip line with a boat hook, pull it on deck, and attach an extension. The line must be the depth of the water at high tide, plus freeboard, plus some allowance for recovery angle (you may not be right over the anchor). And you must allow for a working length on deck.

If the anchor buries deeply in soft mud or pulls under an obstruction, it will be pulled down, requiring a additional 5 to 10 feet. Assuming 6 feet of tide, you probably need 15-20 feet of excess line vs. low tide. If the water is 6 feet deep at low tide, that places the float 22 feet away from the anchor. In 20 feet if water the float will be 31 feet off station.

In the above scenario, the marker may be closer to your boat, blown by the wind—a good thing. But if there is tide, it is just as likely to be farther away, suggesting to any passerby that you have way too much scope out. In an isolated cove, the only places we have used tripping lines while cruising, these details don’t really matter. The trick is to avoid floating over the marker.

The trip line can be made to be self adjusting. Place a small block under the float and thread the tail of the trip line through it. Then tie a 4- to 8-ounce fishing weight to the end of the trip line. The weight will pull the tail down and keep the float nearly vertical over the anchor. The float must be large enough to support the weight, and a stopper knot will keep the trip line from pulling out back through the block.

CHOOSING TRIP LINE MATERIAL

Polyester works well. There is no need for the trip line to float and polyester holds up far better than polypropylene. We like 3/16-inch (5 mm) Dyneema. It is more compact, runs well through the self adjusting block,—if that is your choice—and is strong enough to recover any anchor. It is harder to handle, but that’s what the extension is for, and you only need to break the anchor out, not haul it aboard. Of course, if it snags or winds up in a prop, it is that much harder to cut. Your call.

LIFTING CHAIN OR TREE BRANCH

Most of the times we have snagged, we were able to winch the obstruction to near the surface. Large limbs that drift over the anchor with the tide are our nemesis.

Tripping the Anchor. Often we can fish a dockline around the roll bar, slack the rode a few feet, and dump the limb. If the snag looked complicated, or if the anchor didn’t have a roll bar, we would take the extra time to attach the tripping line to the tripping eye instead of the roll bar; that way the anchor will turn upside down and drop the snag every time.

Saw. Sometimes there are just too many branches to get a clean drop, and cutting a few away is simpler. A hacksaw works. A wood saw or onehand pruning saw works better, and both have other uses on a cruising boat.

AVOID CABLES AREAS

In principle the cable is deeply buried in the mud, but cruisers have hooked them. These areas are easily identified by signs on shore, markings on maps, and the obvious lack of anchored boats. If you pull up a cable, and we know people who have, put the anchor back down and cut the rode. It’s an expensive lesson to learn the hard way.

CONCLUSIONS

We very seldom rig an anchor marker or trip line. When we do, we keep it simple but strong, knowing there is little chance we will actually use it, but knowing that when we need it, half measures won’t do. A 3/16-inch Dyneema line of fixed length (12 feet) to a small float works for us, since we anchor in less than 8 feet of water 98 percent of the time. Simple. If we frequented deeper water we might try the self-adjusting type, but probably not, because we know we would very seldom use it and we like simplicity. Slide retrieval “descender” rings? When we really need a trip line, the rode always seems to be under a slab or surrounded by branches. We don’t want to fool with a less robust system.

We always keep snorkeling gear and clothing (wet suit or dry suit) appropriate to the water temperature on board for the full range of possibilities; a rope around the prop, bad weather, and MOB. Anything. We consider this basic boat gear.

But the usefulness of such equipment for retrieving an anchor depends on being an experienced free diver. Don’t dive on a fouled anchor unless you are experienced, fit, properly equipped, and have fully evaluated the situation; it can range from a pleasant dip in tropical waters to a dark nightmare with entrapment hazards.

Leaving the anchor for later pickup may be the smart move. You gave it a good effort and it’s stuck. A change in weather may dictate that it’s time to go, or perhaps it’s simply time to go home. If you think you may recover it later, tie a large fender to the end of the rode and let it go. But if it’s really fouled and you’re far from home, is it worth the money to hire a diver at the time to come back? Probably not. Pull the rode vertically, cut the chain with bolt cutters (another essential piece of gear), and use your kedge until you can buy a replacement. It’s only an anchor, and the shackle and first 10-20 feet of rode were probably worn anyway. Better than a dangerous dive.

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Anchor Rodes for Smaller Sailboats

I’ve created and have been using a “hidden trip line” as a full time cruiser who anchors most of the time in the PNW for 3 years now and am happy with this strategy. Here’s how it works-

Materials needed-

– Dyneema line (because it’s strong and floats) with eye splices on each end. I have two lengths, 30′ and 60′ that covers almost all of the depths I anticipate anchoring in. – Two carabiners- large to attach to anchor, smaller to attach to chain

Deployment-

Step one- attach the large carabiner to the head of the anchor. Most anchors have a hole for a trip line or tandem anchoring. You can use the roll bar or cross bar or drill a hole if needed.

Step two- attach the dyneema line to the anchor-side carabiner that is 5 feet or more longer than the depth at high tide. You don’t want it too long so the bight floats high enough to get snagged by passing boaters. My 30′ line gets the most use.

Step three- Attach the smaller carabiner to the other end.

Step four- drop anchor/chain, paying out the line at the same time and stop to attach the boat-side end a couple of feet short of the length of the line. For my 30′ line I stop when the 30′ marker reaches the windlass and attach at 27′ or so.

Step five- deploy the rest of the rode and set as normal.

And that’s it. Takes longer to explain than to actually do it. The “hidden trip line” will float above the chain and anchor and I have yet to see it get fouled under normal conditions.

Raising Anchor-

Raise as normal and stop when the boat-side carabiner reaches the roller and detach. Continue raising as normal. You may need to unwind the line from the chain as the anchor spins to untwist on the way up. When the anchor is home the hidden trip line makes a handy safety line to secure the anchor while under way.

Using the hidden trip line-

If the anchor is stuck simply unhook the boat-side carabiner, attach a strong line, and use a halyard, the windlass, a winch, cleat and motor, or any other method to raise the anchor as you would with any trip line.

The only limitation of the hidden trip line that I can think of is that if the anchor rode itself is fouled you may not be able to reach the boat-side carabiner. This happened to me once so far, and I spent a couple of hours to finally raise and unhook my anchor and unwrap my chain from a huge fisherman’s anchor that looked like it had been abandoned 100 years ago.

Other than that, this strategy is easy to deploy and doesn’t interfere with other boats attempting to anchor nearby, a common reason for not using a bouyed trip line. While you can attach a full length trip line to the rode leading back to the boat, I don’t know anyone who has actually done that and resist doing so myself because of the hassle factor. Here in the PNW with all the logging. fishing and crabbing that creates pervasive risks of fouling our anchor, I’ve found an easy to deploy trip line to be a necessity, which after all, is the “mother of invention,” right? Happy anchoring folks.

I use a trip line in most places where I anchor as the areas have a history of abandoned nets and ‘stuff’. One morning when I got up I couldn’t see my anchor bouy, after some concern that it may have snagged the rudder or prop the tide changed and it appeared from under the swim grid and all was well. I didn’t like that feeling at all. You have come up with perfect solution which I will be using next time I’m at anchor. Thank you for sharing.

That is very much how an in-line tandem recovery line is deployed. In-line tandems can be very difficult to recover, even when not fouled, if one is still on the bottom when the other reaches the rollers; the force from the second anchor, often from the side, keeps it from coming aboard straight. I’ve never had one snag.

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Skrew Mooring Anchors

The Skrew Mooring Anchor is a helicoid mooring system designed for multiple applications; sailboats, motorboats, floating docks, fish farms, basins, etc. Skrew moorings are eco-friendly and do not damage the sea bed. To ensure equal weight, these helicoid anchors have a higher holding capacity than any other type of traditional mooring system, such as mushroom moorings or concrete moorings. Read More about Skrew Moorings .

Skrew Mooring Installation

Skrew Mooring Jet Ski size for personal watercraft: 19.7 inches tall with an 8 inch helicoid disk. Simply screw the Spade Skrew down, attach a chain to the mooring ball and you are all set.

7,000 lb boat Mooring Anchor

OUT OF STOCK

CURRENTLY OUT OF STOCK -- Skrew Mooring Small Boat size: 29.5 inches tall with a 10 inch helicoid disk. This Skrew Mooring will hold up to a 3.5 ton or 7000 lb. boat . The Skrew Mooring is easy to install. Simply screw the Spade Skrew down, attach chain to mooring ball and you are all set.

8 ton boat  Mooring Anchor

CURRENTLY OUT OF STOCK -- Skrew Mooring Mid-Sized Boat Size: 39.36 inches tall. This Skrew Mooring will hold up to an 8 ton or 16,000 lb boat . Simply screw the Spade Skrew down, attach chain to mooring ball and you are all set.

18 ton boat mooring anchor

Skrew Mooring Large Boat Size: 55.1 inches tall. This Skrew Mooring holds up to an 18 ton boat . Spade Anchor Mooring systems simply screw down. Attach the chain to the Skrew Mooring ball and you are all set.

24 ton boat mooring anchor

Skrew Mooring Large Boat Size: 74.8 inches tall. This Skrew Mooring holds up to a 24 ton boat . Simply screw the Spade Skrew down, attach the chain to the mooring ball and you are all set.

Anchor Sizing Chart

Skrew Model Boat Weight
Vertical Lift
Shank Length Shank Diameter Number of Disks
SK JET Jet Ski 19.7" (0.5m) 1.17" (30mm) 1
SK 1600 3.5 Ton
1.6 Tons
29.5" (0.75m) 1.56" (40mm) 2
SK 2500 8 Ton
2.5 Tons
39.36" (1.00m) 2.34" (60mm) 2
SK 6400 12-18 Ton
6.4 Tons
55.1" (1.40m) 2.34" (60mm) 2
SK 8500 24 Ton
8.5 Tons
74.8" (1.90m) 2.96" (76mm) 3

Advantages:

  • - For its inexpensive price, the helicoid mooring anchors' holding power is the best.
  • - The anchor is made of hot-dipped galvanized marine steel for a long lifespan.
  • - Unlike temporary anchors, these do not dredge on the sea bottom and do not require a great water height ration for the mooring line. They are thus respectful of the sea beds' ecology.
  • - The "Skrew" anchor is made from high strength steel. The rod is forged of only one metal bar with a round eye fixation.
  • - Installation is carried out using a bar passed through the eye.

The 5 tragic minutes that sank a superyacht

PORTICELLO, Italy — Survivors of a storm that sank a superyacht off the coast of Sicily recounted their ordeal to one of the doctors who rushed to their aid, with some saying it took mere minutes for the 180-foot ship to go down. 

Dr. Fabio Genco, head of the Palermo Emergency Medical Services, told NBC News on the phone Thursday that he arrived in the seaside village of Porticello before dawn Monday, about an hour after the $40 million Bayesian sank in the violent and sudden storm.   

Of the 22 people onboard, 15 survived despite storm conditions and darkness, climbing onto a lifeboat before being rescued by a nearby sailboat. The crew members have made no public statements so far, though some have been interviewed by investigators.

“They told me that it was all dark, that the yacht hoisted itself up and then went down,” Genco said, recounting what the survivors told him. “All the objects were falling on them. That’s why I immediately made sure, by asking them questions, if they had any internal injuries,” he said. 

It appears they had just minutes to abandon the sinking ship, Genco said. 

Divers Retrieve Bodies From Tech Tycoon Mike Lynch Yacht Sunk Off Sicily

“They told me that suddenly they found themselves catapulted into the water without even understanding how they had got there,” he said, “And that the whole thing seems to have lasted from 3 to 5 minutes.”

Giovanni Costantino, CEO of The Italian Sea Group, which owns Perini Navi that built the Bayesian, told Sky News that there were no flaws with the design or construction of the yacht. He said their structure and keel made boats like that “unsinkable bodies.”

In an interview with the Italian newspaper Corriere della Sera, he disavowed responsibility, blaming instead the actions of the crew. “Mistakes were made,” he said. 

Genco said one of his colleagues who arrived at the scene before him initially thought that only three people survived, but the coast guard reported there were other survivors and more emergency services were called in. 

When Genco arrived, he found scenes of panic and despair. 

“Unfortunately, we are used to such panic scenes because we are used to the shipwrecks that happen on Lampedusa ,” Genco said, referring to the island southwest of Sicily, where the wreckage of boats carrying migrants on the sea journey from North Africa to Italy are often found . 

Six of the passengers were declared missing Monday, and by Thursday, the bodies of five had been recovered from the wreck , some 160 feet underwater.

Among those who survived is Angela Bacares, wife of the British tech mogul Mike Lynch , whose body was recovered Thursday. 

Divers searching for six missing people following the sinking of a superyacht off Sicily in a storm have found fifth bodies.

Another survivor has been identified as Charlotte Emsley, 35. She told the Italian news agency ANSA that she had momentarily lost hold of her year-old daughter, Sofia, in the water but managed to retrieve her and hold her over the waves until a lifeboat inflated and they were pulled into safety.

Dr. Domenico Cipolla at the Di Cristina Children’s Hospital in Palermo is also part of a team of medical professionals treating the shipwreck survivors. He told the BBC on Wednesday that Emsley and her daughter, as well as the father of the child, who Cipolla said also survived, are continuing to receive psychological help. 

“Psychological support was constant and is constant even today, because basically it is the wounds of the soul that are the most in need of healing in these cases,” Cipolla said.

Genco also told NBC News that he was especially concerned about the child. “She did not understand anything. She was soaking wet and cold,” he said. 

Karsten Borner, the Dutch captain of the Sir Robert Baden Powell, a yacht that was anchored near the Bayesian, said by phone Wednesday that he saw a thunderstorm come in at around 4 a.m. local time (10 p.m. ET) Monday, followed by what looked like a waterspout, a type of tornado that forms over water. 

The International Centre for Waterspout Research noted on X that there was a “waterspout outbreak” off the coasts of Italy on Monday, the day the Bayesian sank. 

All the men missing after a luxury yacht sank off Sicily -- who included UK tech tycoon Mike Lynch -- have been found, a coastguard official told.

“I turned on the engine and made maneuvers so that we wouldn’t collide with the Bayesian, which was anchored about 100 meters from us,” Borner said. “Then all of a sudden it disappeared. Then the wind calmed down, we looked around, and saw a red flare.”

Borner said he got into his boat’s tender and saw a life raft with 15 people on it. Members of the crew were administering first aid. 

“I don’t know why it sank so quickly, but it may have something to do with the mast which was incredibly long,” he said. Questions have been raised about whether the mast was to blame for the accident as tall masts, even with the sails down, have more surface area exposed to the wind, which can contribute to tipping a vessel in a storm.

The CCTV footage that emerged Tuesday showed the yacht’s 250-foot mast, believed to be one of the tallest aluminum sailing masts in the world, lashed by the storm as it appears to tilt to one side before disappearing.

Claudia Rizzo is an Italy based journalist.

Claudio Lavanga is Rome-based foreign correspondent for NBC News.

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Yuliya Talmazan is a reporter for NBC News Digital, based in London.

Best Beaches in Southern Lake Tahoe

Best Beaches in Southern Lake Tahoe

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Table of Contents

Last Updated on August 22, 2024 by Boatsetter Team

Nestled in the Sierra Nevada mountains, South Lake Tahoe is a haven for beach lovers and boating enthusiasts alike. The quiet beaches on the western shores and the views of the granite cliffs of Emerald Beach, South of Lake Tahoe, offers a unique beachscape. Whether you’re looking to drop anchor in a secluded cove or cruise along the shoreline, South Lake Tahoe ‘s beaches provide the perfect launching point for your boating excursions. Let’s dive into some of the top beaches that make this destination a boater’s dream.

pope beach

Pope Beach stretches for nearly a mile along Lake Tahoe’s southern shore, offering ample space for beachgoers and boaters alike. The shallow waters near the shore make it ideal for paddling, while the deeper areas beckon to motorboats and sailboats. From your vessel, soak in the panoramic views of Mount Tallac and the surrounding Sierra Nevada peaks. The beach’s western end provides a quieter experience, perfect for anchoring and enjoying a peaceful picnic on your boat.

Explore boat rentals near Pope Beach

Emerald Bay State Park

Emerald Bay State Park

While not a traditional beach, Emerald Bay Park is a must-visit for boaters. This natural wonder features a narrow inlet flanked by towering granite cliffs. Cruise the bay for the best pictures of Vikingsholm Castle, known as one of the finest examples of Scandinavian architecture in North America. Anchor near the shore to explore the underwater maritime heritage trail, where you can snorkel or dive to see historic boat wrecks.

Explore boat rentals near Emerald Bay State Park

Nevada Beach

Nevada Beach

Nevada Beach’s east-facing location makes it an ideal spot to watch the sunrise from your boat. Find a pontoon with a cooler for a late afternoon beach trip. Enjoy sunbathing on the deck or floating mat for a couple of hours, then watch the sunset.

Explore boat rentals near Nevada Beach

D.L. Bliss State Park

D.L. Bliss State Park

D.L. Bliss State Park is known for having some of the clearest waters and is a major snorkeling spot. Cruise to park’s Rubicon Point, one of the deepest drop-offs in the lake, attracting scuba divers and fishing enthusiasts. Get incredible views of the Balancing Rock, a massive boulder perched precariously on a narrow stone base. Anchor at a secluded cove, enjoy the peace and quiet.

Explore boat rentals near D.L. Bliss State Park

Zephyr Cove

Zephyr Cove, located on the Nevada side of the lake, offers a perfect blend of natural beauty and modern amenities. The beach’s south-facing orientation provides shelter from prevailing winds, making it an excellent spot for boaters to anchor and enjoy calm waters. From here, you can take in views of the entire southern basin of Lake Tahoe. The cove is also a popular starting point for parasailing adventures, offering a unique aerial perspective of the lake for thrill-seekers.

Explore boat rentals near Zephyr Cove

From the expansive shores of Pope Beach to the hidden coves of D.L. Bliss State Park, each destination provides unique opportunities for boating enthusiasts. Whether you’re seeking a peaceful anchorage to soak in the alpine scenery or looking to do some underwater exploration, and kayaking, South Lake Tahoe’s beaches are best explored by boat. Remember to respect the lake’s natural beauty by following all boating regulations and practicing Leave No Trace principles.

Explore boat rentals in South Lake Tahoe

Boatsetter  is the leading online marketplace for boat rentals and on-water experiences. Download the Boatsetter app ( App Store  |  Google Play ) and follow us on  Instagram .

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Boatsetter empowers people to explore with confidence by showing them a world of possibility on the water. Rent  a boat,  list  your boat, or become a  Boatsetter captain  today.

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Associated Press

Body of British tech magnate Mike Lynch is among those recovered from yacht wreckage, officials say

Italian firefighter divers bring ashore in a plastic bag the body of one of the victims of a shipwreck, in Porticello, Sicily, southern Italy, Thursday, Aug. 22, 2024. Divers searching the wreck of the superyacht Bayesian that sank off Sicily on Monday recovered a fifth body on Thursday and continued to search for one more as investigators sought to learn why the vessel sank so quickly. (AP Photo/Salvatore Cavalli)

Italy Boaters Missing

PORTICELLO, Sicily (AP) — The Italian coast guard said Thursday the body of British tech magnate Mike Lynch is among those recovered off the coast of Sicily from the wreckage of a superyacht whose builders had called unsinkable.

One woman remains missing. She has not been identified, but Hannah Lynch, Lynch's 18-year-old daughter, is reportedly unaccounted for . The family had been celebrating his recent acquittal on fraud charges with the people who defended him at trial in the United States.

Five others were recovered by rescue crews following Monday's tragedy.

The Bayesian, a 56-meter (184-foot) British-flagged yacht, went down in a storm early Monday as it was moored about a kilometer (half a mile) offshore. Civil protection officials said they believe the ship was struck by a tornado over the water, known as a waterspout , and sank quickly.

Termini Imerese Public Prosecutor’s Office investigators were collecting evidence for a criminal investigation, which they opened immediately after the tragedy despite no formal suspects having been publicly identified.

The chief executive of The Italian Sea Group, which owns the Bayesian's manufacturer, told the AP in an interview on Thursday that superyachts like these are “designed to be unsinkable."

“And it is unsinkable not only because it is designed in this way, but also because it is a sailing ship and sailing ships are the safest ever,” CEO Giovanni Costantino said.

Costantino added that “obviously they must not hit the rocks violently, discarding the hull, and they must not take in water,” suggesting the second possibility was the most likely in this case.

Costantino also noted that sailing ships require “a greater competence” to be guided compared with motor boats.

Investigators are now looking at why the Bayesian, built in 2008 by Italian shipyard Perini Navi, sank while a nearby sailboat remained largely unscathed . Fifteen of the 22 people aboard survived by escaping in a lifeboat, including a mother who reported holding her 1-year-old baby over the waves to save her. They were rescued by the sailboat Sir Robert Baden Powell.

The sailboat's captain, Karsten Borner, said his craft sustained minimal damage — the frame of a sun awning broke — even with winds that he estimated had reached 12 on the Beaufort wind scale, the highest hurricane-strength force on the scale.

He said he had remained anchored with his engines running to try to maintain the ship’s position as the forecast storm rolled in.

“Another possibility is to heave anchor before the storm and to run downwind at open sea,” Borner said in a text message. But he said that might not have been possible for the Bayesian, given its 75-meter (246-foot) tall mast.

“If there was a stability problem, caused by the extremely tall mast, it would not have been better at open sea,” he said.

Yachts like the Bayesian are required to have watertight compartments that are specifically designed to prevent a rapid, catastrophic sinking even when some parts fill with water.

Lynch is the only person confirmed dead; the other bodies have not been formally identified by the Italian coast guard.

Besides Hannah Lynch, those missing are Christopher Morvillo, one of Lynch’s U.S. lawyers, and his wife, Neda; Jonathan Bloomer, chairman of Morgan Stanley’s London-based investment banking subsidiary, and his wife, Judy.

The body of chef Recaldo Thomas was the first to be recovered , on Monday. His death was confirmed by his family.

Friends of Thomas, best known as “Rick,” paid tribute to him on Thursday at a favorite bar in the Caribbean Island of Antigua. Cooking for Lynch was supposed to be one of Thomas' last jobs before retiring, his cousin, David Isaac, told the AP.

Divers have struggled to find the bodies in the yacht’s hull on the seabed 50 meters (164 feet) underwater.

“We would need a crystal ball to know when we'll be able to find the next body," said Luca Cari, spokesperson for the fire rescue service.

“It's very difficult to move inside the wreckage. Moving just one meter can take up to 24 hours,” Cari said.

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World News | Mike Lynch’s body recovered from sunken…

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World News | Mike Lynch’s body recovered from sunken superyacht off Sicily; 1 woman still missing

22 people including the tech magnate were aboard the bayesian.

Italian firefighter divers bring ashore in a plastic bag the body of one of the victims of a shipwreck, in Porticello, Sicily, southern Italy, Thursday, Aug. 22, 2024.  (AP Photo/Salvatore Cavalli)

Rescue crews brought the body bag ashore at Porticello port while divers continued to search for the sixth missing person, whom the coast guard identified as a woman. The agency confirmed that the recovered bodies included that of British tech magnate Mike Lynch .

Also among the six missing passengers were Lynch’s 18-year-old daughter and associates who had successfully defended him in a recent U.S. federal fraud trial.

“We would need a crystal ball to know when we’ll be able to find the next body,” said Luca Cari, spokesperson for the fire rescue service.

“It’s very difficult to move inside the wreckage. Moving just one meter can take up to 24 hours,” Cari said.

The Bayesian, a 184-foot British-flagged yacht, went down in a storm early Monday as it was moored about half a mile offshore. Civil protection officials said they believe the ship was struck by a tornado over the water, known as a waterspout, and sank quickly.

Fifteen people escaped in a lifeboat and were rescued by a nearby sailboat. One body was found shortly afterward.

Termini Imerese Public Prosecutor’s Office investigators were acquiring evidence for their criminal investigation, which they opened immediately after the tragedy despite no formal suspects having been publicly identified.

Questions have abounded about what caused the superyacht, built in 2008 by Italian shipyard Perini Navi, to rapidly sink, when the nearby Sir Robert Baden Powell sailboat was largely spared and managed to rescue the survivors.

Giovanni Costantino, head of The Italian Sea Group, which owns the ship maker, blamed human error for the disaster, which he said took 16 minutes. “The ship sank because it took on water. From where, the investigators will say,” he told RAI state television after he met with prosecutors.

Costantino cited AIS ship tracking data which he said showed the Bayesian had taken on water for four minutes when a sudden gust of wind flipped it and it continued taking on water. The ship straightened up slightly and then went down, he said.

But was it merely the case of a freak waterspout that knocked the ship to its side and allowed water to pour in through open hatches? What was the position of the keel, which on a large sailboat like the Bayesian might have been retractable to allow it to enter shallower ports?

“There’s a lot of uncertainty as to whether it had a lifting keel and whether it might have been up,” said Jean-Baptiste Souppez, a fellow of the Royal Institute of Naval Architects and the editor of the Journal of Sailing Technology. “But if it had, then that would reduce the amount of stability that the vessel had, and therefore made it easier for it to roll over on its side,” he said in an interview.

The captain of the sailboat that rescued survivors said his craft sustained minimal damage — the frame of a sun awning broke — even with winds that he estimated reached 12 on the Beaufort wind scale, which is the highest hurricane-strength force on the scale.

He said he had remained anchored with his engines running to try to maintain the ship’s position as the forecast storm rolled in.

“Another possibility is to heave anchor before the storm and to run downwind at open sea,” Karsten Borner said in a text message. But he said that might not have been possible for the Bayesian, given its trademark 250-foot-tall mast.

“If there was a stability problem, caused by the extremely tall mast, it would not have been better at open sea,” he said.

Yachts like the Bayesian are required to have watertight, sub-compartments that are specifically designed to prevent a rapid, catastrophic sinking even when some parts fill with water.

The underwater search continued in dangerous and time-consuming conditions. Because of the wreck’s depth, which requires special precautions, divers working in pairs could only spend about 12 minutes at a time searching, though reinforcements outfitted with special equipment to enable longer dives were on the wreck Wednesday.

In all, some 27 divers took rotations, including four who helped with recovery after the 2012 Costa Concordia disaster off Tuscany. They called the Porticello wreck a “little Concordia,” fire crews said in a statement.

The limited dive time was aimed in part at avoiding decompression sickness, also known as the “bends,” which can occur when divers stay underwater for long periods and ascend too quickly, allowing nitrogen gas dissolved in the blood to form bubbles.

“The longer you stay, the slower your ascent has to be,” said Simon Rogerson, the editor of SCUBA magazine. He said the tight turnaround time suggested the operation’s managers were trying to limit the risks and recovery time after each dive.

“It sounds like they’re operating essentially on no decompression or very tight decompression, or they’re being extremely conservative,” he said.

Divers were also working with debris floating around them, limited visibility and air tanks on their backs.

“We are trying to advance in tight spaces, but any single thing slows us down,” said Luca Cari, spokesman for the fire rescue service. “An electric panel could set us back for five hours. These aren’t normal conditions. We’re at the limit of possibility.”

Winfield reported from Rome and Kirka from London. Associated Press journalists Trisha Thomas in Rome; Andrea Rosa in Porticello; and Anika Kentish in St. John’s, Antigua, contributed to this report.

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