coronado 15 sailboat parts

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Coronado 15 Parts

• Thread starter dierenarts
• Start date Jul 16, 2004
• Forums for All Owners
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Anyone have any links to dealers with parts for Catalina Coronado 15? Specificially looking to replace the hiking straps since one of them broke (at a very inopportune time I might add ;-)....nice swim lol)Koen  

Ron Eddleman

C-15 parts I dont have the hiking strap parts you are looking for but I do have a lot of blocks, boom sails and other fittings from a C-15 that I scrape due to a rotten floor.  

Hiking straps go to annapolis performance sailing (apsltd.com) and you'll find what you need. Just type "Hiking straps" in the search window... you'll find pre-made rigs or materials to make your own. (I checked and found a cool set of padded straps for $41.50) You might also find some interesting parts for your boat, though not OEM, by looking at the Vanguard 15 or club 420 stuff. For OEM parts you might try the catalinayachts.com website and link to their parts department.  

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Coronado 15 Sailboat Dolly

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Dynamic Type 5 dolly for the Coronado 15 sailboat. Proudly made in the USA by Dynamic Dollies and custom sized for your boat, offering a great fit ease of maneuvering. Shipped in an easy to assemble kit.

Upgrade to larger tires (18" x 9.5") with the Dynamic Large Wheel Upgrade option, which includes two large tires and appropriate length axles. See "related products" for more info.

• This style is made for heavier or double handed boats, e.g., Club 420, Capri 14.2, Coronado 15, larger inflatables or aluminum boats with motors, and more.
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• Easy dolly breakdown using the snap buttons on wheel shaft and tongue tube, as well as wing nuts on axle tube cross fitting.
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• Sailboat Guide

Coronado 15

Coronado 15 is a 15 ′ 3 ″ / 4.7 m monohull sailboat designed by Frank V. Butler and built by Catalina Yachts starting in 1968.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

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Coronado 15 Tuning Guide - North Sails - One Design

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For any question you may have on tuningyour <strong>Coronado</strong> <strong>15</strong> for speed, contact one ofour <strong>Coronado</strong> <strong>15</strong> experts listed below:ONE DESIGN WESTVince Brun . Chris Snow619 226 14<strong>15</strong>F 619 224 [email protected]@od.northsails.comONE DESIGN RHODE ISLANDChuck Allen401 683 7997F 401 683 [email protected] DESIGN CHESAPEAKEGreg Fisher410 212-4916F 410 [email protected]<strong>Coronado</strong> <strong>15</strong><strong>Tuning</strong> <strong>Guide</strong>

NORTH SAILS <strong>Coronado</strong> <strong>15</strong><strong>Tuning</strong> <strong>Guide</strong>Proper boat speed depends mostly onconstant and consistent adjustmentsto your rig and sails. The followingmeasurements are those that we havefound to be the fastest settings for younew <strong>North</strong> sails. We have brushed andtested different tuning settings to besure that we have the fastest and easiestmeasurements available. If you have anyquestions, please don’t hesitate to call.MAST BUTT PLACEMENTThe back edge of the stock butt plateshould be 111” from the inside of thetransom when measured along the floorof the boat. The back edge of the mast,when sitting on the forward pin in thestep, should be 114” from the transom.MAST RAKETo measure your mast rake, hoist a metaltape measure on your main halyard, lockit, and hold the tape tight at the top of thetransom in the middle of the transom. Themeasurement is always taken with the jibup, and with all the load on the jib halyardand luff wire. This measurement should be23’ 5” in heavy air and 23’ 6” in light air.RIG TENSION AND SHROUDPLACEMENTWe suggest setting your shrouds sothat the rig will be tight enough thatthe leeward shroud will not go slacksailing upwind until the wind is blowingapproximately 10 mph.An excellent method to determine a moreprecise tension is to use a Loos TensionGauge Model A on the shrouds. Thereading with this smaller tension gaugewill be 18. In light air this reading shouldbe around 200 lbs., in heavy air it shouldbe around 300 lbs. (over <strong>15</strong> knots of wind)SPREADER LENGTH AND CANTYour spreaders (with the standard mast)should be 19” long, with a 6” sweep.Spreader cant will be determined by yourcrew weight. Heavier crews will sails withshorter numbers (spreader tips fartherapart.)MAST PREBENDWith the proper rake, rig tension, andspreader set your mast should developapproximately 1/2” of positive prebendwhen sighted up the back of the mast.MAST BLOCKAt this point, the mast should be blockedat the deck in order to limit mastbend.This will insure that the mast will notoverbend and overflatten the mainsail inheavy winds.NOTE: It is suggested to remove thisblock downwind to avoid any unduestrains on the mast at deck level.MAIN CUNNINGHAM AND JIB CLOTHFor both the main and jib, never applymore luff tension than is necessary tojust barely remove the wrinkles. Mosttimes it is actually better to leave a hintof horizontal wrinkles in the lower 1/4 ofthe luff of your main and jib to be sure youhaven’t pulled too tight.JIB LEAD TRIMLINEYour <strong>North</strong> jib is built with a “trimline”penciled in from the clew grommet outtowards the body of the sail. This isthe most accurate check in determiningproper jib lead position. When the jiblead is positioned properly, your jib sheetshould appear as an exact extension ofthe trimline. At this point both telltales,tip and bottom, should break evenly as theboat is luffed into the wind.C<strong>15</strong>In heavy winds, when the boat isoverpowered, move your jib leads aft asmuch as 2” at which point your jib sheetwill angle slightly aft of the trimline andyour jib will become flatter up top with theleech more open.JIB SHEET TRIMUnfortunately, there is no easy guide fortrimming the jib sheet. We are lookingfor a parallel slot between the exit of thejib and the entry of the main. The guidewhich has been very successful is that ofimagining a middle batten on the jib atmid-leech. This “batten” should be setparallel to the centerline of the boat whichwill make the upper half of the jib leechtwist outboard slightly, and the lower halftwist inboard slightly. In light air, 1-2” offshroud base, in medium air the foot shouldbe curled to just touch the chainplate andin heavy air there should be a horizontalcrease appearing along foot.It is important to be careful not to overtrimthe jib and hook the imaginary battentighter than parallel with the centerline ofthe boat. It seems that 90% of the boatspeed problems experienced are due tofaulty jib sheet trim.MAINSHEET TRIMTrim the main through use of themainsheet and the boomvang so that thelast 1/3 of the upper batten is parallel tothe boom (sighted from under the boom,looking up the sail.) In light winds it willbe impossible to keep the upper battenfrom hooking slightly to windward due tothe large roach of the C-<strong>15</strong> main. In theseconditions set the upper batten parallelto the centerline of the boat (instead ofVisit our web site at www.<strong>One</strong><strong>Design</strong>.com for the latest <strong>Coronado</strong> <strong>15</strong> news and tuning tips.© 2007 <strong>North</strong> <strong>Sails</strong> <strong>One</strong> <strong>Design</strong>. All rights reserved.1

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Coronado 15 sailboat - boats - by owner - marine sale - craigslist

Race rigged Coronado 15 with two sets of sails, one set of rarely used North race sails and one set of older working sails in good shape. Boat has two rudders, a kick up rudder and a fixed rudder...

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SAILBOAT - CORONADO 15 - boats - by owner - marine sale - craigslist

Coronado 15 Sailboat Classic one design Coronado 15 (1971) sailboat available. Great condition for its age with many critical updates. Comes with trailer and totally ready to sail. Over the past few...